I'm glad to hear. It's been something that we got and has helped inflatable clients save $$$.

Great suggestion, I'll start taking clips of boats that come through here and do a compilation video once I have enough clip time. Thank you for the suggestion. Cheers

@@gashopperinc Thanks, that'll be great. Sometimes new ideas won't work as well out on the water. That'll give ideas of what works and what doesn't.

As long as the glue or the internal seam isn't separating, then this product will work great for your boat.

All good. There is no layer separation. Just random small microscopic leaks along the seals @@gashopperinc

Great question. Yes those air floor can be a pain to get to the donut area. Best trick I find is to work the sealant into that. Remember air floors are fiber reinforced, so it may take a minute or 2 for it to completely trickle down there. Once you think it's down to that area, deflate the air floor and press and work the sealant towards the donut portion if you can. After you think it has work it's way there, re-inflate the airfloor and spray to see if the sealant has slowed the leaks or stopped it. If you notice a decrease, then give it a few spins with the donut on the lowest portion of the airfloor and rotate a few more times. Let it work it's magic and you should be good. May take a couple doses. It's the inner fibers that make it tricky.

@@gashopperinc That makes sense. I'll give it a try. I don't know how long the sealant remains liquid in the floor, but it seems like it will probably stay workable for several days.

It certainly will. This product is perfect for sealing micro peaks from when inflatable boats are rolled up.

Oh my goodness. Well what I would do is, get an oil extraction pump, fill the chamber with some water, slosh it around to collect and gather up all that slime, and use the oil extraction pump to pump it out. May take a few trys, but that should work on getting that out.

Stabond or Zodiac Z7096 Plastomere Glue for the job.

Thank you@@gashopperinc

No, completely different product.

I've had clients use vehicle undercoating guns with the wand extenders to spray the inside of the tubes where the leak is. If you have the adapter that does a 360° spray, then you'll be able to coat is much better. I'm working with a tool manufacturer to see if I can get a custom sprayer made that doesn't plug up when spraying the sealant.

Not to sure who has this in the UK. But we do ship this product globally.

Yes it will work, you just have to remove the rotating valve assembly so it doesn't gum up. Wipe away any excess that gets on yhe valve.

No it won't interfere with the valves, just have to remove them first.

Depends on the size of the hole. Small pin holes and micro leaks this stuff will work great. Punctures, not so much.

The water will make it heavy, I recommend using a extraction pump to pump out the water. There's handpump ones out there that can be bought for that purpose

@@gashopperinc Thank you for your prompt response. I'll look into this. If by any chance you can recommend one...

The PELA PL650 manual extraction pump is what we use here. Fairly inexpensive, and great added bonus for oil changes also.

@@gashopperinc thanks luv ya

That's all it is, intimidating. I have lots of how to videos on how to tackle such a job. Just take your time, if need be, do each part 1 at a time. Make sure you you clean and prep the surfaces good and you'll have nothing but success.

@@gashopperinc thank you for the encouragement, will probably tackle it once the temp comes up a bit.

I recommend using a 2 part inflatable repair glue, like Stabond or Zodiac glue.

That's correct. It will also coat the inner chamber and seal if there is any cracking or damage.

@@gashopperinc, how can I know it coats the inner chamber in its entirety?

I like to roll the sealant on bright sunny days. It allows me to kinda see the sealant roll inside the chambers. Kinda of like X-Ray machine.

@@gashopperinc, that is interesting! I do not know how I could see the sealant roll inside the tubes (and my boat is white). How much liquid is needed for an average boat like that?

White is sometimes the easiest to see at it will turn yellow almost in the sun, depending on the thickness, but you'll see the sealant shadow down the sides as it coats. I usually start with a 1/4 to a 1/3 bottle and go from there.

No, it's a specialty formulated liquid latex designed for use in inflatable boats.

No, and please don't. You'll end up ruining your tubes. To have that, you have to pre-form the foam and wrap it with PVC or Hypalon if you wanted foam filled tubes.

It's a product we get specially made from a local chemical company.

Can be ordered off our website, or ebay.

I'm sorry to hear it's not working for you. What's the boat your using it on, and where and how bad is the leak? Super Seal should be working for you as it's pretty good at doing its job. Need some more information, maybe I can guide you?

@@gashopperinc it was used on at 12 ft Seamax PVC inflatable. I have one tube with slow leak. I used approximately 1 bottle in the tube. Rotated like suggested.pumped up 3/4 pressure then 24 hrs later it went flat. Also air floor as well.

@keithlawton3725 Is the leak on the bow of the boat or side chambers? Depending on where the leak is, you may have to roll it in that specific section a couple times. I've found that if you can get the sealant over the leak while in the chamber and let it sit for a bit, the air pressure will slowly move the sealant in the leaking spot or shaking the boat up and down to slosh the sealant in the area. Also, another method is to flatten the boat with no air in it on a flat level surface and push the sealant around to the leaky spots. As for the air floor, they can be tricky as most have that drop stitch fabric and the sealant like to get caught on the threads before making it to the leak. Same thing, as suggested for the boat, get the leak to the lowest spot and wait for the sealant to creep to it. This video was just a quick example, the stubborn leaks that were in the video, I did have to rolled it quite a few times, as the sealant just wasn't getting to where I wanted it at first. But after a bit of patience and thinking of how the sealant flows inside the chamber, I figured out it had to be rolled a certain way and left to sit for a bit so the sealant could flow down the area I wanted it to and coat it. Try those and get back to me. The sealant should still be in a semi liquid state, depending when you applied it, to try the suggested methods as it won't get fully cured unless it's agitated and in warm temps.

@@gashopperinc it's on the port side chamber. It flipped and rotated the vessel over and over like you mentioned for a couple hours. Leak is on the top of chamber. I even flipped vessel upside down for sealant to get to leak. Yes it was done in warmer temps around mid 20s. I just take my battery operated pump with me when I go out. Can I use the product again once used already.

Yes the product can be used over to try and seal the leaks. If you could contact us directly by email, I'll send you out another bottle to try if you ran out.