Pleasure. Glad I could help.

Thank you so much. This really means a lot. Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks so much for your lovely message. I really appreciate it. Aneka x

Glad it was helpful!

Pleasure. Glad I could help.

Thank you Jill. Really pleased you liked it.

Thank you Carole. Really pleased I could help. X

Thank you! There are more to come over the next few weeks as I've been busy filming.

Thank you so much! I've been busy filming so a few more will be launching over the next few weeks.

Thanks so much!

Thank you so much. I'm very pleased it was helpful.

You are welcome!

Thank you very much Ruth.

Thank you so much! Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you.

Thanks Marilyn.

Thank you so much.

More to come! Thanks so much!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you Pamela. 💖

You are so welcome Carine! Really glad I could help. Thank you. Aneka x

Thank you! So pleased you enjoyed it.

You’re welcome 😊

Thank you for such a lovely review. Really pleased that I could help. Good luck with the top! Aneka x

Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you.

Thank you

Thank you! 😃

You are so welcome! So pleased that it helps.

Really pleased I could Philippa. Aneka x

Thanks so much. 🥰 I need to launch this as a pattern. X

Pleasure

@@MadetoSew Your welcome

Thank you so much Stefy.

@@MadetoSew ❤️

You are so welcome!

Thanks for sharing Nancy. Great suggestion.

Thank you so much

Thank you so much. I'm pleased that you have found them useful. Great to hear you are making your own clothes, I hope you find this additional skills helpful.

@@MadetoSew I'm sure I will, because now I've seen this, I'm realising that making adjustments for my bust (and I'll probably have to take things in, rather than let them out) won't be as difficult as it seems at first glance.

@@somebodyelse138 You may be interested to know that we will be launching a small bust adjustment over the next couple of weeks.

@@MadetoSew I'll be watching out for it.

Thank you! I'm here! I've been really busy filming the last few months. There will be a few new videos launching over the next few weeks.

@@MadetoSewThat’s great news!

So glad it’s useful. X

Hi Belle, I don't believe the bust apex really gets lowered, as this 6mm is added below the fullest part of the curve (on the side front pattern piece). I would suggest that you work out how much you need to lower it by (from the original), and then move it on both the side front and front pattern pieces. Let me know if you have any other questions. Aneka x

💖

Hi Alexandra, I would adjust it at the side seam. Hope that helps? Aneka

Hi Neha, do you mean how to draft a dart onto a bodice block? Usually the dart will be drafted into the block if you are making a darted block.

Hello Elizabeth, I am glad it has been useful for you. The apex on a princess seam pattern can be located at approximately the fullest part of the curve on the side panel. This should allow you to roughly plot the apex on the front panel; by truing the seams together. Does that help? Aneka

@@MadetoSew Yes! Found your other video on just that. Thank you!

@@elizabethmunday6339 Great news.

Hi Phill, Thanks for you question. You should be able to shape in the side seam to remove the extra you have gained under the bust apex? Or you could cut the pattern off at the waist. Do the adjustment and then stick it back to the bottom section, blending the waist accordingly. Feel free to send me a photo of your adjusted pattern pieces if that isn’t clear or doesn’t help. My email is info@madetosew.com. Let me know if it helps, Thanks, Aneka

Hi Sarah, Thank you for your kind words. You don’t need to alter the back pattern pieces. The front should have extra length in the side seam, which is now incorporated inside the dart, so actually the length hasn’t been adjusted here. The centre front extra length is to fit over the fuller bust, so that should work just fine. Let me know if this helps? Aneka

Hi Aneka, thanks for your reply, yes that makes sense. I’ve made a toile up after doing the FBA & it worked beautifully, all the seams lined up perfectly and I had the extra across the bust that I needed. Thank you again for such a wonderful tutorial!

@@sarahbakewell3323 That's brilliant. So pleased it worked and you are pleased with it.

@@sarahbakewell3323 So pleased I could help Sarah. Glad it worked! 😊

Anita, to make the waist smaller on a princess seam, just use a pivot and slide method. Nancy Zieman's book on fitting is a great resource.

Hi Anita, I have the SBA for Princess Seams coming as well for you! 😊 In terms of a bodice with only a waist dart you have two options. Have you seen this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/maeRmphjzdHWY58.html. Option 1 is that you could move your waist dart onto the side seam using this method: madetosew.com/how-to-dart-manipulation/ (so that it becomes a bust dart), then complete the SBA using the first tutorial I shared (above). Of course the SBA would possibly remove the bust dart (depending on the size of the dart and your adjustment) and mean that you don't have a waist dart. OR Option 2 is that you can use the tutorial above, but you will be cutting through the side seam and not a dart; it will shorten the side seam by doing the SBA so you would need to amend the back side seam length as well (as this may or may not be the right thing for you). Does that help? Aneka

Thank you. Most of the lines should be the same? The horizontal and bottom vertical line. The line to the armhole will of course be harder to achieve. You could aim for the armhole (it doesn't matter too much where you pivot this, approx armhole is fine) and then once complete smooth over the top line of the strapless shape. Aneka

@@MadetoSew Thank you for your quick reply. I will try this as soon as possible. Regards, Anna

Thank you Phill.

If you don't have a princess seam you can use this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZtmidpSfz8nFdWg.html Just cut and lower the dart or princess seam to reach your bust apex (2.5cm lower).

Hi Adrienne, it will alter the shape of the armhole, but it has not adjusted the stitching line. Usually this shape adjustment is not an issue (so you do not need to change it) in the final garment. Do let me know if you run into any problems. Aneka x

@@MadetoSew huge thank you & love the way you explain things-very clear . ❤️

Hi Tracy, Yes, this is already filmed. It will be launched over the next couple of weekends, alongside other new content.

Glad I could help Val. No it doesn't really affect the other pieces. You might just want to true the side seams. 😊

@@MadetoSew Hello, I had the same question :) What does "true a seam" mean please? Do you take off the small excess at the armhole of the back side piece? Thanks!

@@Paloumi "True" a seam, means to make it the same size, length, or maybe shape (depending on the seam), as the seam it has to sew to. You shouldn't need to adjust the back. 😃

Hi Kelly, for an FBA on a princess seam I would lower it first and then do the adjustment. Hope that helps! Aneka x

When doing an FBA on a princess seam you might want to do a combination of this method. And the other method that I shared in the video; simply adding to the curved part of the pattern. This will help to reduce the distortion. If you are doing an FBA on a pattern with a dart, rather than having one pivot point to the armhole, I would have another point higher up where the armhole and end of shoulder meet. You could also put another pivot point in the centre of the shoulder. Having more pivot points will help to prevent as much pattern distortion. I have done very large FBA's 4-5", (I presume yours is 10" total difference so 5" on the pattern) with customers in classes with me before. I would just make sure you make a sample of the bodice afterwards as you may need to do some more tweaking. The other option is to draft your own patterns from a draped bodice on your body. I do hope this has helped. Good luck!

Thankyou so much for your reply! I think I will definitely try your suggestions. (And yes 10inch total so 5 inch on the pattern) I've just been unsure if it would still be approached the same way. I think I will just have to experiment with it a little bit.

@@jamfx7942 Glad I could help. Basically it is doable, you might just need a few pivot points so you aren't distorting the pattern too much. Let me know how you get on. Happy to help. Aneka x

Hi Elizabeth, I would do length or position then the FBA or bust cup adjustment. Most of the time that will work best. However so consider when doing a FBA on a bodice pattern with darts the bust apex does move when the adjustment takes place. Hope this helps. Aneka

@@MadetoSew Aneka: Thank you for your prompt reply. I am working on 3 projects. Project #1: Vogue 9236 Princess; Project #2: V9226 Shoulder Dart & Countor Dart (i.e. waist dart); Project #3: V9226 Bolero Jacket (with crossover to button @ neck -- NO DART) Difference btwn High Bust & Bust is 5". Pattern made with Size B Cup. Hence, FBA will be 1.5". Following the helpful hints in the multitude of podcasts watched over the past 3-Days (feels as though I've been attending a 3-Day seminar with water breaks & lunch break), I am selecting the pattern size with the pattern bust matching my high bust measurement, in order to minimize distortion to the upper body fit (arms, neck, chest). Vogue Bust Size 22 is 44; my High Bust is 43. Your examples for FBA showed no changes to the bust apex -- Only a change to the fullness needed to accommodate the fuller bust. Naturally, by adding the material for fullness, the length of the front panels changed. Unless I hear otherwise from you, I will create "test" garment (with muslin) by updating the length of the torso to the correct location of the bust apex; followed by the FBA. If you have any other suggestions which may help with this matronly figure (think Queen Elizabeth II), they are welcome. Grateful to find your podcasts.

@@elizabethcasper8385 Lovely to hear that I have been able to help you with these three exciting projects. I would move the Bust Apex first for the princess seam pattern (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9SHo5t3yrW1oYE.html this video shows how, although I am sure you have already watched it). You may also find that you need to amend the shape of the princess seam pattern pieces; often with a fuller bust you may find you are flatter in the upper chest; but this is hard to determine without a toile. So do you best on the pattern. Get the bust apex in the right location, complete the FBA then fit the sample to see if any more shaping needs to occur. Your idea to choose the pattern size based on your high bust is a good one. Although I would always teach that the correct method is to find your high bust, then add the cup size of the pattern and choose the size of the pattern based on this measurement. The big four pattern companies, Vogue etc. can often have shoulders on the large size and sometimes more ease than I would like. Which means choosing a smaller size, your idea of choosing the bust based on your high bust works for most students. Let me know how you get on. Good luck! Aneka

You can do the adjustment without seam allowances, just cut to the edge of the paper, rather than the stitching line. Yes you can, or you can shave off the fullest part of the curve. I have a video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7Z-kpSWnZ2waKs.html

@@MadetoSew thank you:)

@@MadetoSew I have another question. My pattern has ease added to the side part of the princess seam. how do I remove that? That top will have a heavier interfacing and a lining and just thinking about having to gater that up to fit the center fron piece makes me not want to do it

@@Angelika5378 You can cut across the pattern to remove it. I am pretty certain I show it in this drafting Princess Seam video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kKuIlLWUm9PQl30.html but let me know if I don't and it isn't clear. You basically cut across and remove from the princess seam but not the side seam. Hope that helps. A

@@MadetoSew that shows how to add length to the side piece if there are discrepancies. But I'm sure to remove it it's just the other way round:) so intead of opening the cut you overlay the cut pieces^^. Thank you so much:)

Hi Karin, you should be able to complete the same process. It will look a bit different to mine, as the adjustment is larger. The curve will be larger and you will have to come in more at the side seam waist. I would make a sample to check the shape of the curve, it might need tweaking. Thanks, Aneka

Hi Nicole, where is the grainline? I apologise for the delay I was on holiday and then unwell with food poisoning. It might be as simple as adding a grainline and then doing the adjustment and then re drawing the grainline you have if it’s on the bias or horizontal.

@@MadetoSew thanks for your reply. I hope you had a lovely holiday and are fully recovered! The grain line is at a 55 degree angle to the centre front. I wanted to send a photo of the pattern piece but I don't think I can on this platform.

I wasn't sure whether to use the centre front line instead of the grain line or if that will impact the drape of the piece.

@@desertdavidsons Hi Nicole, you can email me a picture (info@madetosew.com) if that helps? Is the grain line like this on both pieces? To do the adjustment I would probably use the CF line and then put the grainline back as originally planned for the construction of the garment. Feel free to send a photo.

I have looked at the coat pattern. I would try and connect the centre panel of the front to the side panel, from the waist up (if possible). Then you can do the adjustment to both and re separate?

@@MadetoSew thank you, i hope it works xox

@@Rebellescum Any more questions let me know. xx

You only want to remove it at the bottom of the pattern piece at the side seam. Not all the way up. Of course it does depend how large this pattern piece is. If it’s just a cup piece then you might not want to remove it. But you need to consider what it is joining to. If the pattern piece extends to the waist, or just above the waist then you probably want to remove it. As otherwise your making the pattern larger in that area too. Rather than just at the full part of the bust. I hope that makes it clearer? Aneka

@@MadetoSew yes makes totally sense. As someone who has a lot of fluff around the tummy area I would be inclined to keep it and add it to the joining pieces. But then to get a pattern fitting in the chest area it always too small in the hip.

@@sewlouisa Glad that makes sense and that I could help with the explanation.