We are using the glue stick trick on the magnetic bed, with a 20mm/s for most of our prints, which let us print with just skirts, and are very happy with the quality for the price,

I’ve also found that 200c-210c works very well for my prints too. As a side note, I’ve also found that using a soldering iron to join, correct, or repair prints that 185c-195c works as a good starting point. I can always go up the extra amount, if I need, but the heat moves to quick at higher temps. Thanks again for your video!

Great great video, so useful, I bought this printer and I love it because it's my first 3D printer, but the main board damaged, so, while the spare arrives, I will use it with a ramps, the settings of the steps were very useful, thank you. Saludos desde colombia.

Great video! I've been using Cura 4 with 40mm/s, 0.1mm layer height, 200 °C and the output is pretty reliable, after 100-or-so hours of operation. If I had to complain, the extruder retraction default settings seems to be a bit too short(compared to the provided slicer) and it's adding some stringing to the prints. Nothing that can't be experimentally fixed, just annoying.

I am having so much trouble zeroing in mine. Not a successful print yet but I have been using cura 15

well, i own a Easythreed X1 - but, to be fair, it can't get higher than 40mm/s in Printing speed. so there must be something wrong with the 60mm/s... actual, i use it in cura 15 with Draft, 0,2 Layer high, 195° or 210°c Temperature (depends on the PLa - that's what i want to know what one you use on that "grey" calibration cubes) and 40mm/s printing speed. i also set up "retract at z-Hop" for better printing results, travel-speed is at 50mm/s. with the "gift" - Pla i get very good results out of that, even without any raft / brim / skirt. But, to be fair, i also had printing issues, especially when it were bigger prints - even the benchy with raft "must" be secured with tape, that the print wouldn't fail at all. i even had issues with "noyes" - filament, but that's a problem from the filament... it broke 3 weeks later after first use, as it were many years old. but with the given filament (i don't know the brand, that were interesting what for a brand it was) it produce very high-quality prints, what doesn't let that printer look like a toy. now i'm trying another filaments, maybe i find one who let the prints in the same or better quality as the given one.

Hi!, excuse me; I purchased this 3d printer on ebay and after the first printed experiments I noticed that circles and rounded parts are somehow "squared", I just tight the belts and had better results but I cannot tight them anymore and the problem persists, do you have any tutorial or something to correct this? thank you very much for the info you can provide!

Your remarks on missing bootloader are wrong. Printer could store custom settings to EEPROM (commands M500 etc), it has nothing to do with bootloader. Issue is that firmware in the printer doesn't support EEPROM, this can be verified with some experiment (M500, M501, M502, M503) or with ISP programmer, like AVRDUDE with programming probe, Marlin in this printer doesn't touch EEPROM in ATMEGA1284P, it is empty. This is just a firmware configuration it has nothing to do with bootloader, printer just ignores commands M500 and M501.. Bootloader is an extra code that allows to upgrade firmware directly over USB cable, without need of a special hardware, like USBASP dongle. I am not sure if bootloader is there, I have not tested it and it is not important for common user. Other serious issue of this small printer is backlash, firmware doesn't support command M425 to compensate backlash in the firmware; this is serious design failure because motors used in this printer are source of high backlash, like 0.3 or 0.5 mm; it is visible when you try print round objects, you cannot print perfect circle, in most cases circle is deformed. It is possible to pre-process G-CODE with anti-backlash filter, it will modify moves of nozzle with extra steps to compensate backlash. This could be a topic for another video... ;-)

hi what do you use to get the print to stick to the bed, ive levelled my bed, but nothing wants to stick. cheers.

I have always suspected my Easythreed Nano might be a terrific little printer, if the slicer weren't of toy quality. When I have time and more experience I'll work on it.

It's a nice printer but it will need some mods I guess...👍

how do you get the filament to make a line before the actual print?

Hi can you please share your best profile for cura? Dankie

i tried your recommended settings and the settings for the best print you got and its no different, ive tried hundreds of different settings, both small and large on the same cube and none of them are good, they all seem to have the same problems despite me having a bigger printer and using he same settings to fix the common problems, still not good print from my one

Question is How do you get it to stick to the none heated base Tape seems to be my best option since glue stick only worked once!!

Hey hoe heb je die stand offs gemaakt zo dat je controle box er onder kan liggen

X1 specification says printing speed 10 - 40 mm/sec., you choose 60 mm/sec.!?

Hallo, in Cura, moet je een merk printer opgeven. De X1 staat daar niet bij .

Nice sir,we have same printer but why I put in the files from fusion 360 trial version to easyware or cura the quality is not nice I blur,but when I make in fusion so nice.so when I print so so disappointed

Could u do this for the x4

I thought that the X1 could only print at 40 mm/s top speed, does it really go any faster than 40 mm/s?

Goeie dag als ik het goed hoor aan je acent ben uw nederlands als dat klopt is het mogelijk om wat hulp te kunnen krijgen betreft het computer werk

Did you make those stands for the printer?? Have the same printer and would love to do that to it!

My X1 works very well, but i've accidentally deleted my software from the tf card. Do you know where i can get replacement software?

hi bro ... can it print directly from the pc using easyware or cura instead of saving to a SD card. Thanks

Thanks for the video. Have you experienced z-axis issues with the Easythreedx1? my prints suddenly have compressed lower layers but the rest of the layers print properly. I end up with an uneven shorter print vertically whether i use ideamaker or cura.