How to grade a sewing pattern

Рет қаралды 25,118

2 жыл бұрын

Turn your design into a range of sizes with this easy step-by-step tutorial.
CORRECTION!: I made a mistake when grading the shorts in this video. Please watch this one for my correction: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r7-UmNqjtrO9h30.html
MY FAVE SEWING TOOLS: My sewing machine - Babylock Sofia 2
My serger - an old Kenmore
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6x24” Olfa Ruler - US: amzn.to/3GEwV8f Canada: amzn.to/486Mm4V
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Sharp Tracing Wheel - US: amzn.to/3tfPr3s Canada: amzn.to/41DLF0z
Loop Turner - US: amzn.to/3RH6HIw Canada: amzn.to/483Z30q
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0:00 Intro
1:57 What You’ll Need
2:36 Standard Sizing
4:14 The Sketch
7:34 Grading Up
13:29 Grading Down
16:43 Grading a Bodice
20: 53 Grading a Sleeve
Size Chart: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._standard_clothing_size
Music: Divine Life Society by Jesse Gallagher from the KZfaq Audio Library

Пікірлер: 96

@836dmar Жыл бұрын

I’m a guy and I typically draft WWII era/vintage style clothing. I learned a lot from this. Glad to see a basic classic type of grading. Thank you!

@miragafni1 Ай бұрын

This was so helpful! I used to sort of wing it...Catherine, you're an exeptional teacher!

@SunnaLee Жыл бұрын

More pattern grading videos please! For knits! Advanced Pattern grading! This is so good!!

@mlandry491 29 күн бұрын

so clever! i will have to watch again a few times to get it, but so much easier than measuring bit by bit all the way round

@corirodriquez2889 6 ай бұрын

I have been a one person design, grading and construction business for 56 yrs now. This is how I grade using a manual grading machine. A Dario. I have all my notes etc. from fashion design schools, LA Trade Tech and HCC College (Hawaii) and just needed a refresher. You are extraordinarily talented and just a wonderful person. Your voice is more then pleasant and your simplicity is a key to life. I can’t thank you enough ❤ I am brainfarting over a raglan slv grading. Do you have a tutorial, my notes are ????? I know I can figure it out but I want someone else’s input. Your so amazing and really get it that I had to subscribe ❤ thank you 🌴

@CatherineSews 6 ай бұрын

Thanks for the lovely comment. Send me an email at contactcatherinesews@gmail.com so I can share a sketch with you. I haven’t graded a raglan in years, but I think I still know how!

@robintheparttimesewer6798 Жыл бұрын

This makes so much sense! I don’t think it’s ever been explained like this to me. I’ve saved this so that I can reference it. This KZfaq makes everything so easy. No one wants to help me in real time in the middle of the night!

@blumenaue7590 Жыл бұрын

I would need to rewatch this a few times. But, honestly this is so much easier then cutting the pattern in strips and splitting it 1/4” here, and 1/2” there.

@Marie-mj6jb 6 ай бұрын

Wow this is really helpful! This makes way more sense than any other video I’ve watched about grading! Thank you!!

@SarahEkman 7 ай бұрын

I think I’ll have to see this ten more times to be able to do it myself but thank you! You are great! Best whishes from Sarah in Sweden 😅

@sarawelder1 Ай бұрын

I may have to watch this 10 times till I really get it....

@christinebutcher300 Жыл бұрын

Thanks Catherine . I am going to have to watch this a couple of times to get my head round it, but its definitely going to be so useful.

@barbaragill5703 Ай бұрын

This information is excellent. So glad I found you. I will be watching more so I can get a better understanding about the MATH part of it. You made it easier to get a better comprehension of understanding the increasing and decreasing of pattern sizes.

@ckim5134 10 ай бұрын

Each time you did it I understood a little bit more. Still need to understand more.

@Roarekter 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much I took pattern grading in fashion college in my 3rd year. But I really didn't understand it then and I had a terrible time with fractions back then. over 20 years ago. grading and alterations have been a real challenge to me through the years in designing and making clothing for people. this video that you did here finally makes me understand this now. the classes dealt with pattern blocks where they split the pattern into blocks. and it was hard for me to understand at that time. I do have a 2 year associates degree in fashion design. but never worked in the industries of fashion designing. just making clothing for local clients.

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Your comment makes my day! I'm beyond happy if my tutorial helps you understand something that you learned 20 years ago! Cheers!

@moonchild6952 Жыл бұрын

my story exactly.. :)

@vickiewilliams3259 2 жыл бұрын

Loved this video. I've never seen this done before, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

That's great to hear! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

@thapelotlou1254 2 жыл бұрын

Also, thank you so much for this video, I've been searching for videos on how to grade and I couldn't find any, you're literally a life saver, thank you !!🥺🥰

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

So glad to hear this! Thanks for finding my channel!!

@patriciaingraldi4719 4 ай бұрын

You are such a pleasure to listen to and watch. I forgot how to grade and your tutorial brought it all back. I know it's going to be complicated because it's a jacket with many pieces 😣but 🤷🏼‍♀️. Thank you so much

@studentRN81 2 жыл бұрын

I’ve seen grading done a few different ways but never like this, wow. Can we see how you would grade a skirt? Hmm I’m guessing the skirt would be super easy to do. Would love to see more grading videos. Is there a name for this particular grading? I am enjoying all your videos. Thank you.

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Great comment! I was thinking about doing another grading video because I wanted to make sure the process was clear enough. I could definitely do a skirt! Coming up soon!

@vernabohnert635 Жыл бұрын

Yes, more grading videos 🙏

@annefalloon7595 7 ай бұрын

Thank you, such a cool technique. I would love to sew vintage patterns I find in thrift shops but they are rarely the right size. Now I can fly :)

@sbaumgartner9848 10 ай бұрын

You did a good job of simplifying the process. People just have to remember to do it accurately for each style they have to know what standard sizes to use. There are a lot of standard sizes out there. Some things like darts are more complex to grade. If you look at a multi-sized patterns you will see this.

@ColleenMarble Жыл бұрын

This is brilliant. Thank you. I'm making a jacket from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 6, and I know right now the pattern will be too small for me, but the patterns are taken from extant garments, so there is only one size provided. This will help me to get the pattern closer to my size before making my first mockup. THANKS!

@yoursewingteacher1729 2 жыл бұрын

You are just rocking these videos. So many new videos coming out. Thank you. I teach the kids how to do this, I will have them watch this video now. Thank you so much. 👍💜

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Oh, you're braver than I am! I sometimes do grading for my students but I haven't tried teaching them the process. It's so technical and tedious, and they're just itching to get onto the fun stuff. Thanks for watching as always (I know that no one will watch this video purely for entertainment, lol.)

@yoursewingteacher1729 2 жыл бұрын

@@CatherineSews It’s funny, I grade with mine and you drape. 😁

@denisestone9119 Жыл бұрын

That’s very clear, helpful directions. Thanks!

@christinemaryfield 2 жыл бұрын

This was SO clear and helpful!!!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!

@GOdeg-kn2mc Жыл бұрын

Wow, that is amazing. Once I understood the concept, that makes total sense. Thank you.

@1wolfpup Жыл бұрын

Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!

@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын

Oh, thanks for giving this older video some love! Grading is such a useful skill. I use it all the time for my classes.

@authenticbatman 2 жыл бұрын

Back to support you, Sister!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you my friend!

@briantaylor9475 6 ай бұрын

Thank you for the video. It is fantastic!! It is sort of a mix of a Ouija board and an Etch-A-Sketch. It will be fun to try it out. I may use metric based on multiples of 3.

@dino2064 6 ай бұрын

Very helpful video, thank you. Happy new year, sending positive thoughts!

@anymoose6685 Жыл бұрын

So clear!

@margaretttowler9404 Жыл бұрын

Loved this video, I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have watched several. I subscribed as soon as I watched the first video.

@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын

That's great to.hear, Margarett! So happy to have you on board!

@vernabohnert635 Жыл бұрын

Very interesting, thanks for sharing 😀

@beckyreid1711 4 ай бұрын

Now I finally understand, thank you!

@heatherwall6877 4 ай бұрын

You are amazing! Thank you so much! My daughter wants a 60's men's double breasted jacket and trying to figure out how to size it down has been a nightmare. This will help me a ton! If you have any advice for changes from a man's pattern to a women's I would really appreciate it. The bust is the only worry I have.

@nusaibahibraheem8183 2 жыл бұрын

Very helpful

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Glad to hear that. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

@stellfashion1268 7 ай бұрын

You’re amazing ❤

@IAMSHAISMA 2 жыл бұрын

great video !!!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting!

@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын

TFS! Could you please teach us how to grade a jacket with collar, cuff, pocket, Etc.? Thanks! Very much appreciated!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Great suggestion! That was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry - to take a trenchcoat pattern down to a 4 and up to a 16. It's a lot of work to do it by hand, but I will try to make a video like that for you.

@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын

@@CatherineSews Thanks so much! 🙏

@delbarnes8285 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for this amazing video. What about grading for a certain individual, like a custom dress specifically for that person?

@gwensampson1336 2 жыл бұрын

So interesting...more of this grading classes will be appreciated plsssse!

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

So glad you liked this one! I'll do more grading videos sometime soon!

@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын

@@CatherineSews Thanks for your teaching! Please could you make one grading a pattern with dart? Very much appreciated!

@dorcassanya Жыл бұрын

Thank you, for the great video. How would you grade a pattern with darts?I.e bust, waist and shoulder darts?

@kaidyncemoffitt6193 10 ай бұрын

Thank god for KZfaq tho!!

@kristicorbett8038 Жыл бұрын

Great video! Just wanted to know if going from a LG to xl would it be 4 in all around?

@janicecollier2787 2 жыл бұрын

I still grade by hand 🙂

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, sister!! We must be from the same generation!

@ireneclark1217 2 жыл бұрын

Please can you show how to grade a princess bodice up to a larger size. Thank you

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Ok, I will add that to my To Do list! Thanks for watching.

@zarakalom4607 Жыл бұрын

firstly, thank you soo much Cathrine for this Video. i am new to pattern grading and found this super helpful. I am a bit confused though, was hoping you can clarify this for me. You said you are going up by 2" all together and dividing it into 4 quadrants which would be 1/2" total in each piece. In the example you gave for the top and shorts with 4 pieces, the amount you're adding is coming up to 1" which multiplied by 4 pieces is double what you are suggesting. so instead of going up by 2" i end up going up by 4. Could you provide some clarification, it would be so helpful, Thank youu!!!!!!!

@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын

Good catch, Zara! After I made this video, I realized my error, so I posted a correction. You'll find the link in the description box.

@delbarnes8285 Жыл бұрын

You mentioned having the bodice a half inch longer, if you were grading to a 1” instead, would you have just made it a quarter inch longer?

@Alaskaraised Ай бұрын

Thank you for this! What paper are you using and where do you get it?

@kaidyncemoffitt6193 10 ай бұрын

God bless

@KN-bx9nt 11 ай бұрын

Hi, great video - is the front t-shirt the exact same increment as the back?

@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын

How do you know how to balance or where exactly to grade? Are these grading places the same everywhere?

@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын

I got it. Thank you for this video.

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

@@puledressdesigns It's not an easy thing to understand, so I'm glad you'r feeling like you've got it now. At some point I'll make another video that explains a bit more about grading, but until then, just let me know if you have any questions.

@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын

@@CatherineSews I’ve always wanted to learn how to grade. I have this ruler like paper that grades but I wanted to learn how to manually grade with just a ruler, pencil and a sheet of paper. This video clarified everything. I read a comment about the dart so I will go back and read up on that. Would love to see more videos on grading though. Thank you again.

@dcwatashi Жыл бұрын

Oh I have a Pajamas Short Pattern where the front is fine the length is fine but the back piece is 2 inches wider than necessary So I’m just guessing I sliced the pattern piece down the middle move it in 2 inches and then true up the other lines like the waistline and the hemline?

@kaidyncemoffitt6193 10 ай бұрын

I hope this isn’t offensive but things used to be so less confusing technology has arguably complicated my life entirely

@dorcassanya Жыл бұрын

What books would you recommend to learn more about this topic?

@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын

Excellent question. I don't think I've ever seen a book on it!

@abielaird 11 ай бұрын

In your sketch why didn't you add 1/4 of an inch to each side of the sleeve?

@helenwood3199 Жыл бұрын

Try rubbing alcohol to remove permanent marker from your ruler.

@sheom538 Жыл бұрын

I need someone to coach me for pattern grading by Gerber or whatever? Do you think we can have a meeting online! Please let me know.

@helenwood3199 Жыл бұрын

A tad confusing when you say slide down, but move the original pattern piece to your right.

@haymur8533 Жыл бұрын

Hey mam, if there is dart how much you move ?

@jasmiereroyster2401 7 ай бұрын

Hi i noticed, in the beginning on your small sketches you said you wanted the front bodice to be 1/2 inch longer. But on the vertical lines in the neckline and sleeve you put 1/8, then on the vertical side seam you put 3/8. That doesn’t equal 1/2 inch if you add the side seam and the vertical arm hole line. I’m confused. Then on the center front vertical line you put /8. I don’t understand what you did there. Please help. I hope you answer 🙏🏾

@CatherineSews 7 ай бұрын

I just rewatched that section and either I forgot to write the 3 in the 3/8 on the centre front edge as I was saying it, or it’s just hard to see! (On second look, I think you’re right! I said 3/8 but I only wrote /8!) So yes, it should say 3/8 on the centre front to balance the 3/8 on the side seam. Add the 1/8 in the neck/shoulder. 1:8 + 3/8 = 4/8 = 1/2. Sorry for any confusion!

@jasmiereroyster2401 7 ай бұрын

@@CatherineSews thank you for responding :) i got confused because the horizontal lines at the top of the bodice all equal 1/2 inch to balance the bottom. So i was expecting the left side vertical lines to equal 1/2 and the right side to equal 1/2. I was doing 3/8+1/8=7/16 of an inch. Because i wasn’t getting 1/2 inch on the vertical like i got on the horizontal i got lost.

@thapelotlou1254 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Catherine, I wanted to know how do you grade a pattern that has darts? Where do you put/move the darts to?

@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын

Great question! You want to keep the dart directed to the bust point, so the safest route is to split your grading increment and put half before the dart and half after.

@debbiesnyder4778 11 ай бұрын

Sorry I got lost

@ladysexyd Жыл бұрын

I appreciated what you are doing but I am not understanding it at all.

@susanpendell4215 6 ай бұрын

What irks me is if I find something that fits my middle, the neckline is like a dinnerplate. What's with explanding the neckline on women's wear???! Men are the ones whose necks get larger, not women.