:: Avocado Top Formation ::
During the entire period of the formation of the crown of our Avocado, I noticed one not unimportant detail, that this is a miracle - the tree is not quite formed correctly when pruning. If anyone remembers from the previous part, where I pinched off the top of the central trunk, the plant released a single branch from the uppermost dormant bud, but at the same time more than one bud did not blossom in the lower part of the tree trunk. The plant constantly strives to grow upward and not to the sides, this will strengthen our task with the formation of the Avocado crown.
Let's just say that these types of plants require very frequent pruning, as they grow very quickly like grass.
It may be worth rooting the lateral shoot of the plant, since it, over time, transforming into a seedling, will further grow and form horizontally, and the apical branches always grow upward.
I think the side branches on the central trunk of the tree will wake up closer to Spring, then the shaping will look different. In the lower part of the trunk, we will break off neatly still swollen buds - future branches. Thus, we will expose a certain section of the trunk to form a trunk, and at the top we will have a lush crown, but it’s just not clear what shape))
As for pruning indoor plants, I will give you some tips:
- Do not be lazy every time to cover the cut with, for example, "garden pitch", and the soft part of the twig with crushed charcoal, to immediately dry the wound and the plant will then not evaporate excess moisture to nowhere!
- Leave the cut branches only with buds, that is, after cutting the stem, there should be visible undeveloped two leaves on the formed stumps, these will be future branches, try not to damage them when pruning.
- When pinching, the cut should be straight and made in one motion.
- When pruning leaves, leave a small stalk right at the base of its growth. The petiole will dry out over time and easily break off where it should be, while the sinus itself in the place with the kidney will not be damaged. If there is no strong need, I do not recommend cutting the leaves.
- And also I do not advise you to prune when forming the crown of very young branches that are very elastic and soft, new buds may not appear on their stumps.
- In the cold period, we stop pruning, as this is fraught with the growth of young branches, they can freeze for a long time in one position and dry out over time.
For grafting, I took the first cut off the uppermost lateral shoot of the plant. By cutting it at an angle at the knot itself, leaving it a certain height. Cut the cut in crushed coal.
I decided to root it not in water, but in wet "Moss Sfagnum" mixed in half with coarse-grained river sand. Instead of sand, you can use the same perlite. Moss with sand should be well moistened with boiled water. Previously, treat sand and moss with boiling water so that parasites would not start in a humid environment.
It is better to use a transparent and soft container for grafting, a dense disposable plastic cup will do just right. Through it, it is good to observe the appearance of the first roots. Cut the leaves of the twigs into 2/3 parts, so that they evaporate less moisture.
Place the container with a twig in a transparent "Zip bag". The zip bag should be much more spacious than our twig and container. Leave a small hole in the center of the lock for ventilation. The rooting branch should not be exposed to the sun. It is only suitable for diffused lighting, temperature (24 - 27 ° C). As the moisture evaporates from the moss, you can take out a container with a petiole and spray specifically the moss, it is better not to wet the leaves and the stem itself, so that excess mold does not start. Try to set the rooting branch away from hot sunny places during summer.
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