Denise Banks anytime! Thank you for the comment

I went almost 3 months before corals! Drove me insane but havnt had any algae or any problems! Now I am setting up a tank and I won a 1,000.00 shopping spree from unique corals and its really driving me crazy, espially since they have a live sale coming up in 2 weeks.

Denise Banks a month would have been good drop a few tester corals in the tank with the fish it should be Fine

@@karennation3580 haha I’m at a month of having my tank set up with my first ever clowns! It’s a great feeling to master husbandry and stability before anything. I cycled my tank in the wrong way and had 50+ppm nitrates. All my Paramus are stable just at one month and nitrates are at about 5-10 ! Frozen food I noticed added a TON to my nitrates haha

Thats the right way!! I added corals day 2 after being adviaed to add some turbo start by my LFS. Luckily i had hardy stuff that survived lol

T.E Aquatics thank you very much! I do my best to provide honest info and feedback, I have no problems sharing my info and my findings the good and the bad, thank you for the support God bless

@@CandyCoralAquatics I am in the midst of starting my 90 gallon reef tank. This is my first reef tank so seeing your vids of an honest reefer with not super high tech equipment is a breath of fresh air. My tank is supposed to be done by now but with this whole Coronavirus pandemic I have to put my money into another things. Also your zoa garden is awesome and that I never new dosing iodine would be so beneficial. Cant wait to see more vids. Peace out from Canada ,and hopefully your safe and doing well wherever you are. ✌

T.E Aquatics thank you very much I hope you are staying safe as well! The world is crazy right now for sure! I just pray to God it’ll all be over soon! In the meantime if you have any questions let me know

@@CandyCoralAquatics Thanks for sure I definitely have some questions when the time comes😂

Awesome 😊 one thing to note, a lot of iodine tests can be inaccurate, let the corals tell you what's wrong 😀. Try adding a drop of something like lugals solution every other day and test, hope things turn around for you!! Thanks for the comment

Lugols solution is great for zoas and mushrooms just be sure to dose lite.🤙

How are things now? Is the tank still up?

Glad you made it! If there’s anything I can do to help just ask

Thank you!

Manni B for sure I’ll make a video tonight on the different Zoas should be up tomorrow. Thanks for the comment!

@@CandyCoralAquatics wow, would have not expected this. Great, looking forward to it.

Manni B just wanted to update you some stuff came up yesterday I was unable to make a video but I will have one out this week for you over the different Zoas sorry for the delay

Nice info definitely going to try it

Thank you!

I use iodide. Is it the same?

Iodine/Iodide supplementation/dosing has essentially been debunked for a while now. If your levels are consistently low you need to look into your salt mix.

@Plot twist titles first of all you gotta know what your doing, and what things are, how to fix things if you have to, and how to have or get most of the answers asked to you, well before you ever think about business aspect of it. Like over night distribution, labeling and everything else. Make sure you have a marketable product. But before that, make sure you know what the hell you're doing is most important, these are animals, and a increasing endangered one at that. I think we can all agree on that, but right now honestly is not the time to get into saltwater, prices are at a all time high to ship, and slow ship due to lack of work and covid excuses.

@@chaostactics yeah, I'm gonna listen to the guy with crazy growth and A+ looking livestock, but good chat. 👍

😅

Thank you!

I start with what the bottle says, then adjust if needed, so if it’s 3 drops per week you can stagger it out to 1 drop every other day

Are zoas low light and low coral..appreciate the help

BROOKLYN BASS FISHING they like high light or low light it doesn’t matter as much as other more sensitive corals and do u mean by the flow?

When I buy Zoas I try to spend an Organ on a single polyp so as they grow I feel like I got my moneys worth.

78-80 degrees F

It depends on your size tank

No

Glad to hear 😊

It's called passion.

Because he is. And it's great. He sounds like a fitness trainer hahah

Got me tearing up

Mike Horan they can tolerate some pretty dirty water, are you running a skimmer? I’d run some tests on the tank, let me know what you find I’m curious maybe I can help you out

Perhaps I was mistaken thank you.

not true, i collect my own crystal clean NSW here in australia and it tests 1.026...

@@davidbaird5998 seawater has a higher salinity at higher temperatures. The Bering sea, Oregon coast and Antarctic are 1.023. Hawaii, North Australia and The Caribbean are all 1.026.

Ya I think a little, I’ve never had a lot of it, once in awhile some might pop up on the back glass or something like that, never had it in my sand bed or over growing on my rock, I also have some red color sponges in here in various places, might be what that is, but the little slime I get from time time is usually because I’ve lacked on a water change, once I change the water and swap out my filters it’s gone, I run low-medium nutrients so my tank usually stays very clean, and no it won’t hurt Zoas, the only way any slime or algae would hurt corals would be if it grows over them causing them to close or preventing light from reaching them

BROOKLYN BASS FISHING so melting is a term used when Zoas or other soft corals will basically just disappear, one minute they are there the next they are receding and just all together vanishing. Usually this occurs when A:not enough light is given B:not enough nutrients in the water to feed C:lack of essential elements/minerals/aminos D: lack of flow Iodine is a must when growing Zoas and soft corals, just be safe when adding it because it can be easily overdosed so follow instructions on iodine and then even start off with a little less and work up. Water changes or dosing must be done to ensure mineral and vitamins and well as amino acids are replaced, aminos can and should be doses in my opinion

Ya it’s ok if the tank is still cycling, just keep an eye on stuff

pak123.com no I have not, if the Zoas/coral I’m looking at don’t appear healthy and colorful I don’t purchase them.

Nirvana Zoas grow very fast, almost to fast and have some great color, rastas will always be a fav of mine, sunny D Zoas give some great orange and lime coloration. Really you can’t go wrong with any of them, they all have similar care requirements and can all be beautiful. I suggest getting a few you like grouping them together then adding others in overtime to make a colorful garden, just be mindful or zoas vs Pallys, the Pallys can overgrow and shade Zoas

I’m sure there is many different ways to success, personally though I’ve noticed if I don’t do water changes, my corals go downhill

Hello Kevin and thanks for the question, so keep in mind that any nutrients you are measuring whether that’s phosphates or anything else are nutrients that are left over and or excess nutrients left behind after the corals have consumed their fill. He should be removed through either water changes or mechanical filtration with some type of media like phosban or GFO. It is beneficial to have nitrates and phosphates in the aquarium nitrate should be kept anywhere between 5 to 10 but 10 to 20 is also acceptable so long as you’re not seeing stress in the coral. Phosphates should be kept at 0.03-0.08 0.1 is also acceptable as Long as you’re not seeing algae or other issues. Carbon dosing is a very effective way to maintain a clean system I do it myself. I also use Red Sea NoPoX, however carbon dosing can be tricky because it can rob nutrients from your coral. So long story short I would only carbon DOS to remove any excess nutrients and to get things back on track then stop the dosing and feed your coral and tank normally then measure your phosphate and nitrate after one week. If you find that it is in excessive amounts it could be due to your feeding regiment or filtration or lack of water changes. When you have the increase due to polyp booster and reef roids this is telling me that you’re probably feeding too much and your filtration or water change schedule is not on par with what you are feeding. Here’s a tip for you, when feeding pallet booster only add 1 mL per 60gal. When it comes to the reef roids I have found the best method is to scoop out what you’re going to use and mix it with only a few milliliters of water to make a thick paste rather than a very soupy spray if you will. Then you can use the thick paste to target feed your coral not only will this allow the coral to consume more food more effective but it will also keep excessive food out of the water column to break down into nutrients. As far as your feeding schedule goes try only feeding your coral 2 to 3 times a week and try to space it out. Another effective way is to do a heavy feed twice a week and do water changes in between those feedings to keep nutrients down. However I like to work smarter not harder so I would say feed 2 to 3 times a week as recommended above and then do a large water change say 50% once a week especially if you see that you’re still having the high nutrients.

kult media if your iodine has a dropper with it when I say one drop I mean one little drop out of the dropper, follow the instructions on the bottle if they say one drop per 20 gallons I’d do two drop per week for a 29 gal, so say every Friday or whatever day works for you add two drops then wait till the next Friday and so on.

@@CandyCoralAquatics thanks for that info.much appreciated!

None of them, you won't get the florescent glow or colors you should under white light, plus your corals should be receiving almost exclusively blue spectrum with a dash of white for fish accents. I'd say if you have lights that are mostly white and non adjustable to switch lighting options. If getting a new light isn't a option for you, then try to stick to singularly colored zoes, like bright reds or yellows, but again the colors will be extremely muted

Google lugols solution

He should. Anything you dos you need to test for. I have over dosed iodine. Icp testing told me I did. My emerald crabs molted like crazy during the iodine over dose. I do dos iodine weekly still but only one drop because iodine is really hard to test for.

What's your clean up crew? I've had diatoms and my CUC decimated them in 1 day 😂, my tank stays pristine thanks to them

Follow manufacturers instructions and no, you can do a ICP test though

Seth Miller it’s going to depend on your tank volume and needs. If you have a lot of soft corals (Zoas pallys, and so on) then you should dose iodine weekly, I use lugals solution and it does have instructions based on your tank size. However be very cautious because iodine is easy overdosed. I’d honestly add a drop or two every 3 days and see how that treats you, buy again it doesn’t depend on water volume and coral load

Unfortunately I had to have open heart surgery and became severely ill for over a year. My tank was being taken care of to the best of ability by someone else. Long story short I had a severe bacterial bloom when I was away in hospital for 2 months and my tank crashed... I'll be getting more zoas soon. My current setup has been running over a year with only fish.

1/2 drop daily if you can. It's 1 drop per 35 gallons daily. Use extreme caution

@@CandyCoralAquaticsjesus. Lol how am I gonna split a drop in half

@@CandyCoralAquatics I just seen a guy dose 1 ML of the Red Sea iodine is that differentv

@AmbiguousAndrew I know lol, unfortunately with smaller tanks things can be complicated. If you dose 1 drop, maybe don't do it daily. Every couple days instead

@@CandyCoralAquatics well I’ll try and do half a drop lol, every few days. Iodine is good for all types of corals tho correct? LPS and other softies?

I dose what’s on the bottle once a week or if skimming 1 drop every other day

Watching this to grow them and the devil at the same time

I don’t have much soft coral but I do have some xenia and I can say it’s really benefited from the dosing of iodide and AB+ by Red Sea

@@mjsawdrt8133 same with my GSP

Karen Nation algae is part of any reef tank, there is different kinds what you’re seeing is called film algae, I challenge you to find one person that doesn’t have film algae, is the layer of film that builds up on the glass if you don’t clean it, some of my hard areas to clean build up, I’m ordering and better glass scraper. As far as nuisance algae is concerned the kind that comes from bad water I have zero of that. File alga forms because of the lights more often than not which is why everyone has it. If you don’t clean your glass you’ll see it build up

@@CandyCoralAquatics I dont mean to sound like a smart ass because I hate people that do that but you did say you challenge me. I dont have fim algae! Admittedly I only have 10 gallons but I change water once a week and clean glass with a magnet cleaner. Most a youtubers do, so no I dont see it on front or side. I see coraine on the back. I Have 2 more we are working on and I will clean the glass on those as well. It may not be bad for corals but looks unsightly and I plan to clean coralline off back even, once I get it! If it were even I would keep it.

Karen Nation that’s what you’re cleaning off with the magnet is film algae

@@CandyCoralAquatics I know that. There really isnt any but If i didnt clean it every week there would be. There been times where i missed a spot and it started to appear. Definitely has to be cleaned on a weeky basis to keep it away.

Karen Nation ya exactly that’s what I’m talking about we all have that, certain spots in my tank that I cant get build up and turn kinda hard or at least more difficult to scrape I’m ordering the Tunze care magnet on bulk reef supply, I saw a video they did on them and they are the best at scraping hard to clean Surfaces like Coraline And are built in such a way that they don’t tear up your Silicone seals or allow sand in them to scratch the glass

Intensity on the viparspectra are 35% blue and 5% white

nino17118 they might not like the high lighting, cut back on the whites I guess if you want

I got mine with the Red Sea trace color box abcd it was 30 bucks

JBB Coral thank you, and no problem glad it helped!

Red Sea blue bucket 🪣

@@CandyCoralAquatics Thanks, was using Instant ocean, but that brown stuff at the bottom, me thinking might not be so good. Thanks

@@bytime2762 check out my video “How to plan your reefing success!”

@@bytime2762 instant ocean is ok but it’s a cheaper salt, Red Sea is only a few bucks more and you can actually look up each batch and see what’s in it

@@CandyCoralAquatics Thanks, gonna try it, as not to keen on Instant Ocean.

for me my zoas never grew or opened and i cranked the blue up on my light and their doing great now

Start dosing iodine and keep your water clean, also feed them

Legit add more fish, and I'd do it before those clowns think the whole tank is their's. Also feed more

@@CandyCoralAquatics I had a scopas tang, it decided to eat a hammer and one of my zoas. Should I turn off my skimmer? Increase waste in the tank

@@joehoffer2112 wow, that's crazy. I wouldn't turn off the skimmer just yet, like I said you really do need more fish. That's a very large tank for a few small fish. If you feed more you run the risk of this left over food causing a big spike as it breaks down, especially if you don't have any clean up crew, fish is really the best and most manageable action

@@CandyCoralAquatics ok thanks. I have a hard time getting fish. I live south of london Ontario. I have to drive to TO to find good fish. I’ll save up and try to buy a bunch at once