That looks like it took a heck of a lot of work, blood, sweat, tears and editing!

Wow, this takes me back 40 years to when I was an apprentice Fitter and Turner. In our apprentice school we all were given a cast iron table 6" square. We had to hand chisel it, then file it, then draw file it and then scrape it until it was over 90% flat (using bluing). One of our first projects and we used that flat edge throughout our apprenticeship..

My friends always wonder how I know so much about random shit. Well this is how...

Unbelievably awesome. I had never heard of this and wouldn’t have believed it if someone told me about it. Makes perfect sense how this works. Thanks so much for making this 😀

Thanks for teaching me many things I did not know. I also appreciate those who contribute to refined and further knowledge in the comment section. This holds true to many videos.

Absolutely fascinating. Seriously couldn't turn it off. I've heard of scraping ways before but never truly knew what it was. Your patience is second to none!

Dale I normally really like your videos. The audio speeding up and slowing down makes this almost unwatchable.

Seen a hand full of scraping videos including one at Vintage Machines and Ox tools Thank you for going through the thinking of what when. and not using a power scraper.

You've probably already figured it out, but the audio is dipping because the plosives are triggering a compressor and the compressor has too long of a release. Use a low cut filter to get the plosives out, and possibly raise the compressor threshold a bit so it's not so pumpy.

True old school work that requires a lot of time and patience but the presentation was very well done. Truly a skill of its own.

I kinda can't believe I watched this whole video. I just started getting interested in machining and don't really know where to start and this just excited my love for tedium. It's the little scrapes I like the best.

I was surprised to read a lot of (what looked like to me) criticism of this video in the comments. I'm actually in the middle of scraping in a small Chinese milling machine & scraping in my own straight edges. I thought Dale did a very good job on this video. I felt he should know I liked it. Good job Dale. Keep them coming.

I’m about to buy a CNC lathe with hand scraped ways, and I found this very interesting! Thank you!

I just watched a 30 minutes video of a guy scraping a piece of metal. Quarantine is really messing with me.

I like the fast pace and density of this video, Dale. Lot of info. Keep it up !

I spent hours learning and practicing hand scraping, have scraped machine beds, adjustment keys, surface plates etc.....thanks for posting.

Great information. Excellent video. Thanks for keeping up a fast pace as well. Much appreciated!

Great video. Thanks for your efforts!

This is a great video, answered a lot of the questions I came up with my first scrape attempt!

Hey Dale, you put a lot of time into this one. Great info, thanks for sharing!

Dale thanks for taking time and effort on something others charge a lot of money for. It helped me tremendously and I have learned a lot. God bless.

What a smooth video. Very straight forward.

Thanks for the video, very useful and informative.

In the uk we do it slightly different tend to use curl strokes and put the blue on using felt pads spent 50 years building high precision thread grinding machines a lot of scraping for flatness and alignments. Hard work especially columating machine bases

Excellent, thanks. Took me back to my apprenticeship days - a long time ago.

Hi Sr, my name is Luciano from south Brasil I liked so much your work. I have a very old machine and I trying to give her some precision, You gave me inspiration, thank you.

so very valuable! tyvm for a wonderful intro to this skill/art!

Thanks Dale, it is good you are back into the show & teach mode again.

OMG!!! WOW, Best machinist videoeo EVER!!!! Thank you you are amazing! I loved watching this!!!!! You are the King!!!!!

Blue was specifically Prussian blue (iron ferrocyanide), which is both very fine and very intensely colored.

It looks cool after scraping. The glimmer it gives off is nice

I have done hand scraping when I was younger and I found grinding flat and grinding lubrication grooves in the work was the way to go. If the work is too large to grind, I send it out to a shop with a larger grinder. I like hardened and ground ways. By the way I did thumbs up this video.

I just caught this video. I still have my scraper. I was taught flaking, blue it, until all the material matches. Naturally the final step flake it in. It is a ART until you really learn it. Nice 👌

Great Tutorial. Job welllllll done!!!

Great video! I've been working on my first real scraping project for my local high school robotics team. It's always great to hear someone else explain it in their own words. A few more concepts clicked in my head. Keep up the great videos.

Hi Dale, you really make some great damn videos! Always very informative and educational with a hint of comedy. I really like the sped up format of this particular video. Thank you for the time you spend putting these videos together for us. I really enjoy chilling out at the end of a hard day learning stuff from your videos. If you would only move once a year, you could probably make a lot more videos - ha ha. All thumbs up for your videos 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Great video. Admittedly not a skill I'll probably ever use but appreciate knowing the concepts! Give your fireball tool guy a heads up. I was against buying their product but after your endorsement on the phone I decided to give them a try!

Great work. Thanks

This is the first time I saw or heard of some scraping metal. Interesting.

Hello, I did a lot of scraping in my day. Worked in a overhaul shop reconditioning #2 Brown & Sharp OD grinders. we scrapped in everything. Main travel table and swivel table, Grind wheel stack also. Learned right away to hip scrape a med. pass on flat side first to stress relieve before any bluing. You didn't talk about hip scrapers but you were working on a smaller piece. Also you didn't cover flaking for oil retention. We cut rolled crescents rather than straight cuts. It was a lot of work but once you got started and saw how you could move and split high spots and spread out the pattern and points, that made it interesting. We usually had two machines in the shop at a time and three men scraping. That was in the 70s.

A great video, very educational. As a dentist we use the same technique when adjusting the occlusion of people's teeth after a restoration or crown is placed. The dark spots with the light centers we call a "donuts" and checking, cutting, rechecking for new donuts I call chasing the dots. As with what you are doing eventually we get to even contacts, we then polish the surfaces and call it done. Again a very clear demonstration.

Informative I use Prussian blue to mark and I've had a small tube for years it goes along way, even got my old scraper that i made from a file when I was an aprentice, I've used the yellow making grease for checking contact areas on gears I'll give it a try. I've got a new mini cnc mill to give all the ways a scrape to reduce sticktation and maximise lubrication of the ways.

Tool maker here. Very cool video, I think I'll try this when I buy some old equipment for my garage. I've used yellow for tempered/discolored steel, but I've never seen using yellow to contrast the blue. Very cool

I'm reading Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy and I had some trouble visualizing this process until I saw this video. Great job. I'll write out the relevant part of the book for any interested readers. They say the first thing you need for mechanical accuracy is "flat master plane" which you achieve with three 4ft x 4ft cast iron plates that you use this bluing process to get flat. You mate two of them together and find the high points to work them down. But if you only did this with two plates, you could end up with a ball and socket scenario where one is concave and once is convex. So you need the third plate to reference both of those to which will keep them all honest. And they said each plate and it's built-in rib supports weighs 2000 lbs. Pretty wild and brilliant stuff. Cheers

Excellent video good fast pace there is a lot of information to pass and you did it.

Really nice video sir... Keeping sharing such cool stuff

Wow, this was very informative.

Hole subject gone 30min and didn't even think fast forwarding. You didn't go too deep in the subject and that IS GOOD. Really enjoyed tour of it.

very professional

Very nice video. Thanks

I find it fascinating to learn from old school machinists. Will I ever use scraping? Probably not, but it would be a nice skill to have.

Dale, I always appreciate watching someone with more expert knowledge and more experience than I have doing a job like this. That said - and in the spirit of constructive feedback - I found this video very difficult to follow for 3 reasons. The first was that your narration was racing along at high speed, while your camera was mainly focused on you, and on the actions you were performing mostly from a distance. When you did show those, the actual viewing of the action was very brief, and it almost looked as if you'd sped up the video. It would, perhaps, be easier for viewers who are learning to see longer close-ups of your hands and the tool on the workpiece, and possibly even with some of that slowed down during editing. What is obvious to you, with more experience, is not as easy for someone with less knowledge to understand. Second point: you mentioned briefly at the beginning using yellow as a "highlighter." However, I really was not able to get a clear understanding of a) how, when and where to apply the yellow, b) what I should do to the yellow surface (or not do), and c) where in the overall process it comes in. I was taught scraping using only two edges - one similar to your "60" and the other about 1/2-1/3 that size. The machinist who taught me used a very thin coat of oil-based marking blue (artist's paint, I believe), well rolled in. However, he taught me _not_ to attack the surface in long, deep gouges, but rather to start out with what would resemble a checkerboard of scraped & non-scraped areas. Then successive passes progressively reduced the size of the "squares," working to produce even patterns of high and low spots. With each overall pass, the "grid" would be finer, and the "spots" or "points" smaller. Now, that may be a very old fashioned technique, and possibly the method you show is faster, or more effective - I'm not clear on that point. Where the Yellow comes in, and what part the yellow plays in your scraping technique was not clear to me as a viewer/student. Finally, I realize that this is a long lesson, with many steps. That being the case, might it be presented in two parts perhaps? If you were speaking more slowly first as you describe in general what you're about to do, and then with your voice-over describing exactly what we're looking at close in on the tool and workpiece, at a regular or slow speed, ? Although I have an engineering background and a good deal of practical workshop time, including having learned basic hand-scraping, I recognize that there is much more to learn about what can be done and how to do it - which brings me to the final point. In editing this video, there is much "popping in and out" at various points in the process. The way in which this is done in editing is visually distracting. It also makes the "what is the proper sequence of events?" a little more confusing. I appreciate your hard work and the large amount of time you spend in doing a video like this very much - I know it takes much longer to demonstrate something and make a video of it than to just do it. I offer these thoughts as a semi-skilled student, and in the hope that some feedback may be of use to you in making future videos. I thank you for sharing your time and considerable knowledge.

The echo at 19:06 was great.

I worked with machinist who scrape a machine bed to get oil.pockets to ride the moving bed on. He just did a cross scrape only . I like the way you showed this.

Good idea to flip your work end for end every scrape to average out .... also be careful not to press down when rubbing that causes pressure points and false reading.... when I was 17 and poor I would hand scrape engine heads that's easier because all you're doing is matching it to the block.... and also you need to intentionally leave slight high points around each cylinder and other strategic points to create better seals with the gaskets filling the voids

Very informative 👍

Awesome channel, I just found it!!!

This is an incredible process. I never knew until seeing this that this was a thing. It’s incredible how precise you can get it by scraping. I appreciate the knowledge. Thanks for sharing.

Very cool stuff.

thanks for the information

Have you come from a tool and die background? Your skill is rare nowadays. Excellent content---Thank you for sharing this!

Hi, I'm from Brasil. Your videos are an inspiration to me because here in Brasil we don't have tradition in scraping and because that is dificult to find tools and instruments to do it. Thank you, Luciano.

Great video, Dale. Cheers, Gary

Very professional ie. TV show quality video nice work thanks for sharing your knowledge

Thank you in particular for the segment where you talk about how much material is being removed from each scrape. I did a pretty good search online and couldn't find anyone that talked about this to the depth I needed. (Pun intended) You busted out the dial indicator and measured the depth of cut and that is exactly what I was looking for. I'm actually surprised it removes a quarter to a half a thousandth, I was expecting much much less.

Seen you on Abom79's video on the Good of the Land Festival and then this video showed up on my suggested videos. Always nice to find a new channel with interesting content. As far as I know blue was initially used when prussian blue was discovered as a synthetic pigment that had an exceptionally strong color and a extremely fine particle size. As far as I know it's still the pigment used to this day in most if not all spotting blues.

Veel bijgeleerd. Goede uitleg

I had an antique lath bed hand scraped, very expensive but works like a new one, holds super close tolerances.

I actually had a job doing this back in 89 !!! I was very surprised to see this video !!! Very difficult to get good/fast at doing this !!!

You are the best

Well explained and nicely paced. See you at the Bar Z ?

Great video but an audio fudge? Video at 1.5 speed? If not, stop buying the four packs of Red Bull!

the OG machinist technique

Prussian blue was the first artificial blue pigment which had also a uniform particle size due to the fact that the powder itself is the result of chemical reaction and not of grinding some solid object. That was a property that led to use of it as scraping dye. Before that blue pigment was rare and expensive, (most expensive, I dare to say) and, as every ground powder consisted of particles of uneven size making it inappropriate to use as scraping paint. Search KZfaq for “the invention of blue” for more details on theme.

Great video! Can you make a video on making your own surface plate

Very detailed and interesting. Might I ask what type of grinding wheel do you use to grind your stones flat?

Might not want to forget the rules of straight scraping: 1. Individual scrape marks or points 2. Individual scrape lines (meaning the spacing from the line above and below the one your scraping can not touch the line before or after, if they touch you will get long openings or ruts). 3. Depth of the scrape mark or cut. You went from high in the middle to a hole, that wouldn't be my goal, maybe should measure first to see how far you need to go before taking off in that direction.

Dale are you going to be at the scraping class in Vacaville in April?

WOW Dale you have got a difficult crowd to please! Never the less good video, thank you

I was taught this 10 years ago from a ole timer not many people doing this anymore 👍

Talking of ink I've been at art school nothing into machining or so, and this process tho I kinda knew of it it's fascinating! Mesmerizing to see close like those lathe's videos.

We use files for Kirksite. We would take the file blades off with a bench grinder, then get them precision ground in as flat as possible, and got the edges at 90°. Then we would take them and work and shape them from there with bench grinders to make radiuses or even venturing into hand shaping.

Very educational

Very nice scraping sir

Hey this is great

If I scraped a piece of metal I would need to take it back to the surface grinder to get it flat again.

I've been a machine tool fitter for 50 years and always use high spot micrometer blue, i'v never seen scraping done for size, it's always done to get the surface flat and feathering to get a bearing finish, i spent many years scraping bearings just as laborious as flat bed scraping but got more satisfaction from doing it.

Thanks for sharing. Heard about using slips blocks and feeler gauges, and turning the bar 180, like setting a spirit level, to get an area flat? Or use of a camel backed straight edge? Or using an electric scraper?

awesome.

Great vídeo

Thanks!!!

Hi dale your gave approxments of the number of scrapings per scraper size. How much time did you have in scraping the one side that you were working on in this vid to the 20 point and then the 40 pt.? A subscriber and follower. Keep them coming .

Interesting to learn the steps taken to get a flat surface. Most of your viewers probably don’t understand just what you have done.

Good job sir

I feel like Morty watching interdimensional cable

Amazing wow

I like surface grinding the best. If you need surface lubrication grind in criss-cross fine grooves in the surface. This could be more automated with a Graver Meister type reciprocating machine.

Really interesting. Thanks for the video! By the way, what kind of roller was that you were using to spread out the ink?

Kepp it comin!!!! Oh yes thank you

As audio technician, I want to give you some feedback on your lav-mic placement. Always place the microphone to the side of your mouth, pointing directly at it. Never directly in front of your mouth or you'll get excessive plosives as you have here. Place the mic such that it's not being hit or ruffled by any clothing directly to it's casing, in this case it would have been best to put it on your collar. :)