FANTASTIC explanation! Been fighting w/my 5 speed switch trying to figure out how to incorporate it. You saved my @$$ & a lot of frustration. Bravo, my friend!!

You sir would make a great teacher,great explanation with no excess bull -well done

This truly has been the most useful knowledge sharing pwm video I’ve seen so far. Thanks for y’all your help

Great info very usefull and no messing around with talkinng that's not needed. I have one set up and have been using it for two years. My advice at this point of experiences with the SAE quick connections is they do not take alot of abuse before the legs inside break. This causes the wires to overheat and drop in efficiency with the motor. This problem was solved by adding locking trolling motor plugs to my ports of connections. Since addind this feature i have had zero problems . Before this i would have to change out the ports and SAE plug ends a couple times a season. Your video is what directed me to my install initally and i thank you for your efforts. I fish 4-6 days a week all season out of my yac for 10-12 hrs a day and my equipment get alot of abuse. So perhaps this may help someone avoid this situation in the future while still following your video thanks. AKA Frogman 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸🇺🇲🇺🇲

This is the best video on this subject on the internet! You made it too east, everyone else cuts up an ethernet cable and makes it hard to figure out what they're doing. Thank you

Thanks for the video. One thing I would suggest to everyone is to add a lanyard type kill switch. That way, if you fall out you Kayak wont motor off away from you.

The pwm with the fan is probably the way to go. That and making sure there is a 50a breaker switch between the battery and pwm will help in keeping the pwm from overheating or taking too much current and frying it. I bought a box that has a mounting plate that is perforated and raised off the floor of the box, so it will also help with cooling the pwm board in the box. I am going to swap out the rectangular rocker switch for a round one that is also a bit larger in size. Thank you for posting the videos because I have adopted some of what is in your videos on adding the hatches and motor to my Outlaw. I am going to be adding foot control steering to mine using stainless steel cable. Hoping to finish up today or tomorrow. I have been doing one or two portions of the project each day. Lots of frustration as I didn't set down and create a step by step guide. Many times I had to take stuff apart because I forgot to add a part...like putting my motor together with the pvc top and wiring loom...then realizing I had to slip the steering triangle down over the shaft. 🤪 I had to take apart my motor mount because after I got it on, realized the part the motor actually mounts to had to be bolted from underneath to the bracket that was sitting flush on the kayak and cutting board reinforcement. Doh! Let's not even talk about trying to solder 10AWG wiring with the soldering pen and then gun I bought. Scrapped that after multiple attempts and just spliced with butt connectors and heat shrink wire tubing. Fun stuff for sure. But, I should be able to easily solder the 22AWG wiring to the new rocker switch. The gun or pen should easily be able to heat that wiring up high enough to do the job.

Short & sweet ! Direct to subject, simple, quick and easy ! Thanks for the video, what seems to be complicated is now very simple !

Thanks mate this video helped me setup my PWM with my kids electric car which originally was 1 6v motor and battery to 2 12v motors and 18v drill battery. Now I can adjust speed depending on who is driving and what terrain. The PWM I received had only Chinese words so this video helped translate the connections xD

Thank you. The explanation on the yellow and white wires was all I needed. I was so confused why the PWM only has +/- in and out and the motor has the white/yellow. Everything works. Much appreciated 🤙

Very clear instruction, I have looked at others and you are short, on point, and easy to follow. Thanks

Thanks so much for this video because I needed a step by step process.

Today.... Still the best video.👍👍👍👍👍

Thank you for keeping it simple 👍👍

excellent video. i was hesitant about doing this mod but after watching this video im confident that this is my next mod.

Hey man, your video was spot on Sir! It was the only part of my set up I didn’t understand . Thank you

Been searching around for a useful video like this one! Thanks.

Great video, most others make it seem like rocket science

Excellent video man. I’m going to be getting the same equipment as you for my pwm setup. Just need to figure out where to put it on my pwr 100

Awesome video!! You made it seem so much easier than what I thought it is! Lol

Exactly what I’ve been looking for! Thank you very much you’ve just earned another subscriber

Good videos. I left the yellow and white wires available so iF the PWM quits can connect the battery to the motor wires and get back to the boat ramp without paddling all day.

Awesome video thanks

By far the best video. I’ve watched a hundred different videos for this subject. Great job and thank you Sir

Great. Thank you!

very clear and concise explanation.. thank u.. 🙏🏻👍🏻

Well done. Looking forward to your next video.

Very nice job explaining, keep up the great work.

What irritates me about all these PWM installations is no one takes the time to add a man overboard disconnect! Separate the two wires from the potentiometer and add the switch which can be clipped to your PFD!

Great video. If I did this on a bow mount trolling motor will the electric steering still work? My control module is bad so I had to bypass it. Now it only operates on full speed. Thanks in advance, Ryan

Great video! Not many pwm videos

good stuff ! I did this 10 years ago when my trolling motor's main board fried. what I could never figure out was how to get the steering motor to turn while the main trolling motor was on. its like it couldn't divert the power IDK

Very helpful video, thank you. 👍🏻

Nice. I am going to make this. Thank you!

I wanted to run something by you regarding my PWM. I purchased the 100 Amp and my motor draws 58 Amps. I had to vent it to avoid overheating, but yesterday it shut down on my during a long move against the current. Very annoying and dangerous, I had to wait about 4 minutes and then it worked fine. It did shut down on my two more times before making it home. I was thinking of installing a switch similar to the marine battery switch I use for my two batteries so I can run through the PWM when I'm fishing or going slow and switch to directly to the motor when I'm on long runs where I'm going full speed. This would avoid the overheating of the PWM due to the speed and get me home. I was hoping you would have some imput on this crazy idea of mine. Thank you in advance!

Great job ! 👍🏽

Bro seriously thank you for this! You have no idea how many videos I have watched and everyone acts like everyone is good with wires. Your video was the simplest video I have seen out of all the research I have done. I'm going to follow this step by step. I only have 1 question.. I have a 24lb thrust 12v watersnake trolling motor. Should I use 10 gauge wire or 8 gauge? I don't want it to overheat or fry it. Thanks for keeping it simple 👍🤙

Built mine exactly as shown. Thank you for that. Only problem is there’s no ventilation in the box creating too much heat and the safety feature will not let the motor run. Any suggestions as to how to vent the box ?

simple to understand

Ok. So I'm researching and your video came up. Very simple and clear. My question is, would this work with a Lithium battery? (😅)

Very informative vids, thanks! I understand why you want a waterproof box, but wouldn't the pwm with the fan just recirculate the heat in the watertight box?

Brilliant.👍

Hey buddy, square handguns are considered Assault Weapon’s in the Country of California but I like your idea for your rubber band gun case. COOL… USA USA USA 🇺🇸 🌎

Great info thanks for sharing

I had two of thse cheap 60 amp units. The first one literally fell apart from poor soldering joints so I sent it back. The second one worked for a couple weeks till it burned up inside. It still works but the variable speed control part quit working. It now runs at 100% or not at all. No turning it down at all. So that's pretty much useless to me. I ordered one of the 100 amp units with the fan in it, so hopefully it will last. I will not put it in a completely waterproof box that is air tight. The 100 amp unit has a fan in it so I will need some venting anyway. DO NOT put the 60 amp PWM in a waterproof box. They run way too hot and will burn up. Even at 3/4 throttle, they get too hot to touch. Mine started to smoke and I could smell plastic burning.

Awesome video and very informative! Would you need to incorporate a fuse breaker within that setup and if so where in-line would you install it?

You might want to make another video about how to make the cables. Everytime I make my own cables, they always fail within a day.

For those of you who are installing a PWM, and use a multi-meter to test the voltage, I discovered that when no motor is connected, the output on the unit will read full voltage, around 12.54 v. Only when you have resistance (the motor) will it read correctly. I am not an electrician, nor do I have a clue as to what I'm doing, but I found out the hard way when I installed my PWM, and after 8 hours of wiring, nothing worked. I almost had a heart attack, lol. I had to get an education in electronics in a hurry. Good luck!

This is an excellent video. Thanks. I made a video on choosing a deep cycle marine battery for a trolling motor, and I noticed that you have a starter marine battery for this. Do you normally use that for your trolling motor, or were you just using that for this video?

Thanks for your reply. Could I use an ESC on a 55lb thrust motor. I don’t know why I went so big, but I think the amp draw has created challenges-your video is great. I am a new subscriber.

Has your PWM failed? I’ve had 2 fail on me, but they were undersized. Your video helped me understand that I needed to double the amp rating of the motor. However, the PMWs on Amazon don’t have great ratings. Please comment on this. Unlike my errors, the reviewers appeared to know what they were doing. In other words, are there things we should know to avoid burning up the PWM? BTW, I have a 55lb thrust motor. I was also wondering if I should limit the potentiometer to reduce the amps to the motor? Sorry for all the questions. 😢😂

Thank you for the video! Do you recommend buying a PWM that comes with a fan? I don’t plan on using my trolling at full speed for a long period of time, but I do want to make the PWM last.

After watching this, it was pretty easy connecting my PWM, thanks. Have you had any issues with heat in a sealed enclosure? My box was hot at the end of the day, but I wasn't sure if it was just the sun.

Great explination and build. I Plan on making one based on Yours Easy to follow instructions and great explinations. My Question is . What cable connections did you put on your box to plug them in and unplug with. Can you post the link to them in the comments section. Thank You and You have really helped me with my first build for the Kayak I just ordered.

Thank's alot man

I am in the process of doing this and would love to have a conversation with ya via email, etc. if you’re up for it! Haha, just purchased the troller, next step is pwm and battery.

Like your video. Where did you get the project box. I like that box it looks good and makes a nice clean job. Thanks

How long does a fully charged battery normally last? I'm guessing most of the day?

Did you have to extend the motor wires or battery wires? If so do you use 10 gauge? And do I ask for 10 gauge connectors? Stupid questions, but piecing this together.

Will this work on a home built ebike with 24volt dc motor 2600rpm? 350 watt razor scooter motor. The OEM controllers will shutdown below about 21 volts.

Well done clear cut instructions. My only concern is does the PWM overheat at all in the box?

Do you put a fuse in-between motor and pwm....or between battery and pwm

Appreciate the video 🤙🏽 What type of battery are you running ?

8:35 I wired mine and I'm getting power but the propeller doesn't turn. I rewired it several times to make sure it's done correctly and still the same problem. If I wire the trolling motor straight to the battery it turns. I don't know what I'm doing wrong

Awesome video, and the cutting of the shaft as well. I will be doing this soon. I have a dilemma with my new motor and the 2-year warranty. If I wanted to not cut the shaft and just leave the head on, how do I hook up the PWM?

The PWM is no longer available on Amazon

Thanks for sharing! Great vidio! Wish I had seen it sooner! Question? If you hooked up the + and - connections backwards to the motor leads would it just rotate the motor backwards? If so, then the 3 way switch would correct the issue? Also if by some mistake your battery leads got reversed, what would that do to the PWM? And lastly, what would happen if the motor leads were to accidentally be shorted between the PWM and the trolling motor? I ask these questions because last year I installed a PWM as a test on my trolling motor. Apparently I got everything hooked up correctly at that time. To save money during testing, I did use some makeshift connections for the battery + & - connections and the PWM output connectors. Unfortunately, recently I mistakenly arced the motor output leads and killed my PWM. Obviously, the arch created a dead short and fried some component in the box. I'm replacing the PWM and using better connectors so I don't repeat this mistake. But anyways, just curious what your thoughts are?

Can you just run the pos and neg to the pwm from the motor without taking the head off? Do the other wires need to be disconnected?

Why would you describe two PWMs that are still in the packages?

What is the life of the pwm being in an unvented box? The mfg. states to not mount in a closed box, how long have they lasted being in the sealed box?

Can a person relocate the switch and potentiometer away from the PWM or would the voltage drop to those be too much ? For instance....have the PWM with my battery and locate the switch seatside

update the 100amp is still available

Hi have a 12v 50lb thrust trolling motor witch pwm would you recommend the 100 amp or the 60? Thanks for the video

Are they brushless? Can’t mix the motor and pwm if they’re not compatible

Just curious, how would you connect a kill switch to that PWM?

What if my old motor has two black wires from the motor wires?

Did you add an inline fuse

I am doing a set up on my Lifetime angler 116 (like yours) and I have PWM like the one you have. I have the quick connects that are 12 gauge rather than 10 gauge. Am I ok with the 12 gauge wiring?

Does it matter negative or positive left or right on the motor. Manufacturers didn’t label it like they did the battery

Just tried to hook mine up and pretty sure I fried it lol. The connection symbols were backwards on my unit. It started smoking pretty heavily

Do you prefer the one with the fan or without and do they last?

So I just installed my pwm and it lights up red and turns on but the trolling motor does nothing

I have the pwm that I think is the one you recommended. It's the 100A. There are nothing showing which screws go to motor or battery. This unit has the 4 screws next to the wires for the speed and forward / reverse switches. What goes where?

Does it get hot and IF it does how do you circulate circulate the air in a enclosed box like you ae using. Will I need to Vent the box as I am ordering the PWM with the built in fan as it does get really hot in the summer here n centeral Texas. I want o try to make sure I do not burn out the PWM of melt the box and start a Kayak Fire..

I've saw 0 videos on a PWM install on a foot controlled trolling motor. The speed coils are in the motor if I'm correct. I'm not as concerned about the power savings as I am wanting to slow my boat down. The trolling motor on 1 is still too fast for what I'm looking for.

Are these for brushed electric moterd to

Here goes a stupid question. Could the PWM output be connected straight to the motor cable without disconnecting anything from the motor head, therefore, putting and leaving the head at speed 5 (or max) and still be able to control the speed and direction from the PWM controller? I hope that made sense.

Got a question my 30 thrust minn kota motor has small black and red wires coming from the motor but 10 gage extension wires are alot bigger, will this be able to handle the amps for my pwm and battery?

My motor positive and motor negative cables don't look the same so I cannot connect it to the PWM box. Is there a adapter or something I need to buy?

Thanks for sharing. You think it will over heat inside a closed box?

Ok mine isn't labeled the same as yours. It just says "B+ M M B-". In that order. I'm assuming that is battery plus, motor plus, motor negative, battery negative.

Instead of the potentiometer can a e-bike throttle be hooked up to the PWM?

Is there a fuse anywhere in this setup?

So I have duel trolling in the rear of my boat - crappie brakes - is it possible for one box to control both or would I need 2x thank you

Hey man I'm really struggling here. I'm really hoping you see this. I purchased the pwm w the fan you had listed. I built my box got it all set up.hpwever the forward gear isn't working. I swapped the wires on the switch and the switch is good. I also put the trolling motor straight to the battery and it went forward. However every time I hook the pwm up the trolling motor loses forward.

Did you ever upload the video showing how to cut the holes in the project box for the PWM? I can’t seem to find it. Thanks.

Did it burn up on you at all?

What size wire for the battery to pwm

Okay, we have power.. now how can I control the direction of the thing from my kayak

Does it get hot?