part number 11/16 ;-)

That makes 2 of us brother

Which bushings? The vibe mounts? You use a long 4mm Allen and stick it inside the spring to unscrew it

The 340se was only made in 1977 the 340 from the series in the video is from the late 90's / early 2000's they are completely different the only parts that's interchangeable are the fuel filter and spark plug, maybe the bar

Use a magnet and stick it back through the hole, there is a little metal bracket it locks into inside the tank

@@Coakleyfixedit207 thanks for the quick reply I actually just fixed it came back to remove my question! I think it also fixed why it was leaking oil bought it guy said it was leaking oil and had no time to fix it

I use a telescoping magnet

Yes except the 353 has an actual crankcase not plastic

I take something like a 1/2" socket and wedge it between the tank and body on the right side and it opens it enough to get needle nose to the vent. I assume your vent falls out that's a common issue on these you can seal it back in with nail polish

@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks. 👍 I'll give it a go and see if I can do it without snapping anything. Yes, it fell out. I only noticed as the vent insert was caught between the top and bottom casings. I'll try wrapping a piece of plumbers tape round the outside vent insert. Might help it stay in there.

@@ottofumbler7267 if plumbers tape is gas resistant it may work, never tried it

@@Coakleyfixedit207 As far as I'm aware, PTFE tape is hydrocarbon resistant. Although, don't quote me on that. Worst case scenario, a small piece falls into the fuel tank and is stopped by the fuel filter. Worth a try I say.

It got rebuilt and sold

A 353 actually has a true crankcase those are a pro grade saw on that I would suspect the impulse nipple on the boot first

@@Coakleyfixedit207 Alright, I'll start with checking the boot first then! Greetings from Sweden! :)

@@jvlalallare let me know what you find, if the saw idles you can spray around it with carb cleaner or ether and when it stalls you've found the leak

@@Coakleyfixedit207 Alright, I've done some tinkering, here's where I'm at now: The 353G starts and idles, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and it stalls immediately, will probably go for a new intake boot (I've cleaned the carb on this previously and it made 0 difference) The other 353 doesn't start. It does have spark and gas gets pumped into the cylinder. Did a compression test and it had roughly 5.5 bar (75 psi) which seems hella low. Doesn't feel all that bad when pulling the cord though which is kinda weird. Also noticed that the muffler misses 2 bolts (missing 1 bolt for the bracket and 1 bolt which screws into the cylinder) Should definately get new screws for the muffler although I guess that shouldn't be the direct cause of low compression since it's a 2-stroke unless I'm thinking totally wrong here? I checked the piston when I took off the muffler too and it looks pretty scored on the exhaust side so I'm not sure whether to give up on that saw or not. Both saws are my neighbours so we'll see what they say...the 353G seems more hopeful though!

@@jvlalallare I wouldn't say give up on the saw but you %100 need to determine why it blew up before rebuilding it or it will just blow up again, my best advice when replacing your boot on the other saw is when you go to put it back together put the boot onto the cylinder first by itself and make sure the little impulse nipple is fully in the hole or it will distort and leak. I've seen this hundreds of times people put the boot into the plastic before mounting on the cylinder and it mashes when reassembled. Those full crankcase saws from this series are very well made and desirable totally worth fixing

Not really they had 2 different style air filters that were interchangeable and the early ones the I'd tag was in a different spot, some had decompression buttons some didnt nothing major

It's really weird. Had a 350, 351 and 353 with the 'clip style' top cover.. My 346's are the same. My friend has a newer 353 with a purge bulb and a screw on style top cover. Not sure if this is a regional or time period thing.

If I get my hands on one I'll do a video on one, top handles are notoriously tricky to work on

@@Coakleyfixedit207 that would be excellent! So I have a question for ya? Have you ever ran klotz oil in your saws? I have had two saws now where the ring was Carboned up and stuck in the collapsed position on the piston. Holding the piston on my 350 as I'm writing this. Ran 40/1 on both saws. Lost compression on both saws and the ring is stuck shut again. 455 rancher and my 350. So my 540T lost compression too after 6 hours of use. I bet it's the same thing. I'm so done with klotz oil

@@wadelesinski53 455 and 460 are well known for that to happen it's very common, I don't run klutz oil I only run premixed can fuel in my 2 stroke stuff, most of the time I've seen that level of build up it was from old gas or gas that was starting to break down not the oil itself. Not saying it can't be the oil that's just what I've witnessed. When gas starts to break down the volatile parts will break down 1st and it won't burn as hot

Make sense however I cut so 25 cord of wood since may and I never have old gas. Cut all 4 season's here in Michigan. Frustrating to say the least. At any rate I'm done with klotz! Anyways I appreciate your input greatly!

Take some dramamine lol, no worries a new setup for making the videos is in the works

Yeah I couldn’t watch all of it. Too bad it was a good video.

Good content but make you dizzy watching with every move of your head. Maybe a tri pod will work

Yeah and he’s talking about some one else being a dumb ass. Lol crazy I couldn’t finish it.

Learn English. Let's compare certifications tough guy.

Probably they all do, its a poor design

I was told to always check for the metal clip when buying this series saw. If a plastic clip is present the price goes down as it usually has an air leak. I also always pull the muffler to see if there is scoring. Once a seller sees the scoring it is easy to lower the price substantially.