Hi ME, thanks for watching and for the kind words 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 Hi again, one more question, would it be ok to daisy chain all the grounds? So by that I mean ground on house to ground on switch panel to ground on bus bar to ground on start battery and finally to ground on outboard, rather than multiple runs. My house battery is in the bow for a Minn Kota and some accessories with switch panel midship on a side console with start battery in the stern.

@Me, hi, yes you can all grounds are connected together in the end. BUT you just have to make sure you respect the AWG wire size. It's a little more tricky when you daisy chain but if it's done right you will be OK. Example, you can't daisy chain a 2AWG wire to a 16AWG wire. Another solution would be to install 2 ground bus bars one in the front and one in the back of your boat, and connect the two ground bus bar with a 2 AWG wire.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Perfect that's clear. Thanks again for excellent content and replies.

Hi DORPER DORPER, thanks for watching, let us know how your installation goes 👍

Thanks for the sub! :)

Hi JJ, Battery isolator will prolong your batteries life. All depends on how you use your batteries. Basically your isolator will have 3 connections. The A B connection will go to both positive of each batteries. The other connector will be ground 👍

Hi robert rreagan, thanks for watching, you will find lots of your answer in some of my other videos. Mostly this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNSBjdCm17-1XZs.html let me know if you get all your answers 👍

hi baileyschornak, thanks for watching and comment, Bus bars are usually high on amperage (200A). It all depends on what you are plugging on the bus bar. But if you get a 200A one, I'm pretty sure you will be fine :)

Hi rorschach, thanks for watching. Often both batteries will be different. One will be a starter battery and the other a deep cycle battery. They will have different specifications and that is not alway good for chargeur and batteries. If they are identical batteries then there’s no problem. Hope this helps 👍

@joetheboatguy5394 thank you joe! that is very helpful! And when the engine is off... should I keep it on both? Or will that discharge my starter battery?

That is correct you might discharge your starter battery quicker. Your starter battery is meant to give higher amperage quick (for cranking engine). Deep cycle is designed to give you less quick amperage but last longer. Hope this helps.

Hi Orlando C Karpf, Thanks for watching. I have a question on what you mean by just on or off switch. Basically you would like to have the option to set both batteries in parallel when switch is on "ON" position? Let me know if thats what you mean, thanks Sorry for the delay lots going on lately

Hi Beth G, thanks for watching. In this set up I do have a bus bar for ground. The bus bar is to keep all wire to go the the batteries. Much cleaner setup. When hooking up your AC make sure you have the right gauge wires. Your + wire (usually red) will go to positive of batteries or + bus bar from batteries. Your black wire is your ground. So it goes to the negative of the batteries or negative bus bar. Let me know if this helps.

Hi AN, thanks for watching, Most quality 1/2/B battery switches, from reputable manufacturers like Blue Sea Systems, BEP/Marinco, Guest & Perko, are designed to be make-before-break. Make-before-break means that as you turn the switch from position 1, to BOTH or 2, the previous position does not open-circuit or disconnect until the next position can carry the current.

Not recommend to go to off position when engine is on. That can be bad and cause damage.

Hi Bean Iril, Thanks for watching and comment don’t forget to subscribe if not already done :) I will make a video soon, but I must complete some other request first. thanks

Hi 302Z, thanks for watching. You will be charging the battery selected. So if your on 1, your charging battery 1. If your on 2, you will be charging battery 2 and if your on both, you will recharge both batteries. Make sure your switch is a make before break switch 👍 Usually battery 1 is a starter battery. Battery 2 is a deep cycle battery. So to start your engine you should be on position 1. Nowadays they have dual fonction batteries. Which is a deep cycle battery that you could start your engine with it. They are great

Hi Bufford, thanks for watching Deep cycle batteries should not be substituted for starting batteries. Marine Dual-Purpose Batteries combine the performance of starting and deep cycle battery, and are a good choice on smaller when there's no room for two batteries. I stole that from Google. But now they do have a battery that can be deep cycle and starter battery. OPTIMA BATTERIES 8016-103 D34M BlueTop Starting and Deep Cycle Marine Battery. It all depends if you want two batteries or a one battery setup. Today there is much better option then the pass.

Hi Brad Harbert, thanks for watching. I have a couple of videos on my channel on how to plug equipment. this one might be helpful to you: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/opqGmJl81c-loYU.html Also, for your batteries if you need to connect in serial or parallel here another video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hs9ijNCHx7evlGg.html Make sure your Switch are Make before break. I have many electronic videos on my channel all you need to do is combining them. Let me know if you need more help. Also is your trolling engine a 12V or more?

Hi Andrew Zuk, Thanks for watching, don't forget to subscribe :) Don't know whats your knowledge in electronics so I will start with the basic testing. If you have done these tests already let me know. My first suspicion is your battery switch. I would unplug and remove the battery switch and set it on the "off" position. Once done you can test continuity with multi-meter between output pin and inputs pins. They shouldn't be any continuity since the switch is set to off. For continuity test with multi-meter: www.wikihow.com/Test-Continuity-with-a-Multimeter Let me know your results and will continuous.

Hello A5JDZK, Thanks for watching, here a video I did for one battery setup. The bilge pump is connected at 2:15min check it out. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNSBjdCm17-1XZs.html Let me know if this helps 😊

Hi A5JDZK, thanks for watching take a look at my channel I have a couple of that can answer your questions. Especially this video take a look. Don’t forget to like and subscribe 😉 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNSBjdCm17-1XZs.htmlsi=20NLvW7zDKd8WMs4 And to add second battery kzfaq.info/get/bejne/opqGmJl81c-loYU.htmlsi=L-CllreZcDaVBLUK Let me know if this helps thank you.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Good vids. I should have asked, How to identify existing components, then isolate them to the house battery. I'm trying to add a second battery to my boat. The issue is, my boat came wired without a GPS/Fish finder or a radio. My current set up only has a circuit breaker in the bilge area. And I want to add a second battery to run all the accessories and keep the current battery to just crank the engine. Thanks again.

Oh that would be a little hard to answer since I never saw your set up. Is you set up man made or is it from the manufacture? If it’s from manufacturer, then you would be able to find the wiring diagram for your boat. If it’s man-made then you would have to follow the wires to figure out what’s going on. Fuse box is always a good place to start Keep us posted 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 It's a factory job from Tidewater. I found it online. Thanks for the reply. One last question. I see my boat is only equipped with a circuit breaker in the bilge area. Can I use a negative buss bar and fuse box instead of the circuit breaker? I plan to add a second battery for the Garmin and Boss Audio Radio. Thoughts?

I usually use the circuit breaker to protect the whole system. So, the circuit breaker would be between the batteries and fuse box. The fuse box is used to protect a part of your circuit or a specific equipment. That how it usually done. So having both is a great Idea. Hope this helps :)

Hi Manfredroncevic, thanks for watching. To my understanding the intelligent battery combiner will have a input and outputs. I haven’t done much of intelligent battery combiner. But the input should be your alternator positive connection. And each output on the intelligent battery combiner will be the positive on each battery. Hope this helps

@@joetheboatguy5394 TNX.

Hi Happygear, thanks for watching and nice comments. Some deep cycle battery will be able to start your engine with no issue, all depending on the cold cranking amps on your deep cycle battery. It`s not its purpose but will work if you have a small engine. Now they have what’s called dual purpose battery which is meant to be a deep cycle but with cranking power.

Hi PopPop, thanks for watching, Yes and if you want the float also you can put it in parallel as the switch 👍 let me know if you know how to do it. Or else I will give you more explanation 😉

Hi Daniel Oosthuizen, Thanks for watching, I have a Mercury 25HP and it does recharge my deep cycle battery. :) From Google : A rectifier transforms alternating current (AC) into direct current (DC). Its normal function is charging batteries and keeping them in optimum conditions while, at the same time, providing DC power for other loads.

Thanks for replying to my question.

Yes they will be in parallel 👍 your output will still be 12V

HI flemminghansen, thanks for watching: here's a video with a with a VSR which is the same family of the battery isolator. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbqZobWrkq6bZp8.html

Hi Magnum opus, thanks for watching. Yes you can connect both negative of batteries and then to buss bar. Yes it can be done 👍

And to clarify - you have a video with the VSR which is essentially the same thing correct? Do you have a video with adding the VSR in addition with the battery selector switch? Thanks and great videos!

Hi Ryan Ballance, The VSR will act as your battery isolator, allowing your main battery to disconnect from the secondary battery when alternator is no longer charging. Yes its essentially the same thing. The Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) allows two batteries to be charged at the same time. When the engine is started and the start battery reaches 13.7 volts, the VSR engages, allowing two battery banks (start and auxiliary) to be charged simultaneously. When the voltage drops below 12.8 volts (eg the engine is stopped), the VSR disengages, separating the batteries. This system eliminates the possibility of draining the start battery and protects sensitive electronic equipment powered from the auxiliary battery from harmful engine start up spikes.

Hi Ryan, The advantages of a VSR is a) Avoid human error: if the boat is off and you're powering accessories, you won't drain your cranking battery. b) if you need (in a pinch) to use your secondary battery to crank the boat, you can override with the click of a switch. Some people won't go without it and some will never use it. it's a personal choice.

Perfectly explained! I guess my preference is to have added safety measures in place. Keep up the great work! Thanks,

Hi Tyler Frye, Thanks for watching, don’t forget to like and subscribe :-) I just want to make sure I understand correctly. You would like to have 2 batteries on your kayak one as Main that runs everything (trolling motor, pump and fish finder), and one has backup in case you main gets discharged. So, you would switch to 2 and have everything running again (trolling motor, pump and fish finder) but on your backup battery. If that’s the case than yes, you can replace the outboard engine by your electric engine... if you only want Trolling motor to run on switch 2, (no fish finder and pump) then I would need to make a diagram for you. Let me know :)

Thanks for the quick reply! Battery 1 will solely run the trolling motor and battery 2 will have a fish finder and navigation lights but I was hoping to just connect them to the battery and leave them off the battery selector so they would not be affected. I mostly just want the trolling motor to be affected by the selector so if battery 1 dies I can switch to battery 2 that has the fish finder and navigation lights if this possible.

Ok got it I will do a diagram soon. How fast do you need this info?

Okay thank you! Whenever you have time will be perfect, I'm in no rush.

Here’s an update, Should be done this week 👍

Hi The Grumpy Business Man, thanks for watching. You will find your answers in this video check it out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h56GmrWD0bXRh2Q.html let me know if you have more question 👍

The one I’m using in the video is Ac/dc charger but would be the same for dc/dc charger.

Hi zop133, thanks for watching. The switch has position 1, 2, 1&2 and off position.

@@joetheboatguy5394 ok thanks

Hi Future_memory, thanks for watching. It’s usually safe to change from bank 1 to 2 if you have a « make before break » switch. 👍 You will need to verify what kind of switch you have.

@@joetheboatguy5394 mine is 9001E by Blue Sea Systems and upon looking, it does have one. I was debating whether to put two deep cycles in or one cranking and one deep

Hello, today they do have batteries that have the cranking power and deepcycle effect. If you have a bigger engine that requires lots of cranking power and you install a deep cycle battery for it, you can damage your battery since they are not designed for that (mostly old deep cycle battery) if you don’t have your batteries, I would look for the batteries capable of doing both cranking and deepcycle. They are more expensive but worry free. 👍 hope this helps 🙂

@@joetheboatguy5394 thAnks Joe. Engine is a Mercruiser 4.3lx (carbureted) which requires 375 ca / 475 mca. It had deep cycles in it for years and they worked great for about 6-7 years but since it is now time, i am contemplating on which ones to get

You must of had a pretty good higher CA deep cycle battery 👍

hi lilbtank419, thanks for watching, you might have a defective switch. first thing I would do to eliminate switch from the equation is disconnect the switch completely and test continuity. Once disconnected take a Multimeter and test continuity on your switch to make sure it works properly. Set your switch on the "off" position and test continuity between "input 1" and "output" should be no continuity. Do the same test with "input 2" and "output", once again they should be no continuity when position of switch is on "off" position. Let us know :)

@joetheboatguy5394 I tried a new switch today did the same thing

Another test you can do is removing your switch and if you still have power going to your equipment then you have a wire that goes straight from battery to your equipment.

Hi Shad, ok that’s a problem, is your switch a make before break switch? A good switch usually is a make before break. Let me know what switch you have and will try to figure what’s going on.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Thank you for the reply, it’s from a brand named Apeixoto but it’s not saying if it’s a break before make or, make before break.

Hi Shad, Most quality 1/2/B battery switches, from reputable manufacturers like Blue Sea Systems, BEP/Marinco, Guest & Perko, are designed to be make-before-break. Make-before-break means that as you turn the switch from position 1, to BOTH or 2, the previous position does not open-circuit or disconnect until the next position can carry the current. I looked at the Apeoxoto switch and they say it’s a kill switch type. I might be wrong but sounds like a break before make switch. Be careful a break before make switch can cause damage to alternator…..

@@joetheboatguy5394 Thank You so much I just ordered one from Blue Sea Systems.

@Joe The Boat Guy thanks Joe, so you don't need a circuit breaker if you have those kind of battery switches you mentioned? Thanks

Hi rilla46, thanks for watching. This is a wirering for a battery switch. I’m not sure to understand what you mean by disconnect switch. Can you clarify please. 👍

Hi offgridwhitetails, thanks for watching. You are right with old switch that are Break-Before-Make: A switch that is configured to break (open) the first set of contacts before engaging (closing) the new contacts. This prevents the momentary connection of the old and new signal paths. Almost all new switches are make before break” transfer, in that the transfer switch makes a connection to the new power source before breaking its connection to the old one. I always recommend to use make before break switch in my channel 👍 I also mention this in the description of the video.

Hi JimNobles, thanks for watching, You don’t need 2 batteries but if you want to separate your startup battery and deep cycle battery this is one way to do it.

@@joetheboatguy5394 I need a Bass Tracker Pro 175, 75 hp wiring diagram. 2001. I bought the boat used. The previous owner burned up the ground wires in every harness. I replaced the grounds. Put fuses on grounds to battery. I messed up on the volt, tach, gas guages , and the 6 wire ignition switch. Switch comes with 6 wires and double jumpers in purple and black leads, but why and what for. There are 3 purple wires under dash. Now the motor(75 hp) won’t turn off:(((((((

As an electrician this is usually easy. But I’m tired, old, frustrated

This is the standerd boat wiring codes, unless users haves changed some wires. So your Purple wires should be "Violet 12v Ignition Generator or Engine" so should have 12v when ignition is ON. To turn your Engine off: it usually the "black and yellow" wire. Should be grounded when ignition is off or when kill switch is activated. Black Grounds, General Black/Brown Pump Grounds Black/Red Voltmeter Grounds Black/Orange Isolated Accessory Grounds Black/Yellow Ignition stop Black/Green Water Level Sender Ground Black/Blue Lighting Grounds Black/Gray Nav Light Grounds Black/White Battery Parallel Solenoid Brown Pumps, General, Bilge or Sump (Manually Switched)(Also alternator starter to Ign.) Brown/Red Pumps, Bilge or Sump Brown/Orange Power feed to Auto Bilge Switches, Pumps, Fuel/Oil Tranfer or Priming Brown/Yellow Baitwell or Aerator Brown/Green Fresh Water Pump/Water Maker Brown/Blue Head Pump Brown/Violet Washdown Pump Brown/White Trim pos sender Red Battery Feeds Unprotected Red/Violet Misc. Accy. Main Feed Protected (fused) from batt to trim panel. Pink Fuel Sender Orange/Black Audio System Feed Orange/Brown Electric Head, Sanitation System Orange/Red Wiper Port Orange Accessories common feed, Dist Panel to Acc switch, Anode Electrode, Mercathode Orange/Yellow Diesel Preheat Orange/Green Wiper Stbd Orange/Blue Communications Equipment Orange/Violet Navigation Equipment Orange/White Wiper Center Yellow/Black Choke Neutral saftey trans mounted Yellow/Red Start Solenoid (starting circut), Neutral Safety Yellow/Orange Powered Ventilation, Fans Yellow Bilge Blowers (also alternator DC output) Yellow/White Rudder Angle Sender Green/Red Stop Solenoid/Kill Switch Green/Yellow AC Grounding Green Bonding Green/White Engine Trim in and or tilt down Green/Orange Engine Independent Trim down Blue/Black Cabin Lights Blue/Brown Oil Temp Send Blue/Red Cabin or Cockpit Lights Port Blue/Orange Engine Independent Tilt Up Blue/Yellow Lighting Circuits to Remote Send Blue/Green Cabin or Cockpit Lights Stbd Blue Instrument & General Lighting Blue/Violet Courtesy, Boarding Lighting Blue/White Engine Trim Outand/or Tilt Up Light Blue Oil Pressure Violet/Red Eng. or Generator B+ from Breaker Violet/Yellow I/O Trim Up (ballast bypass) Violet/Green I/O Trim Down Violet 12v Ignition Generator or Engine Violet/White Trim "Trailer" switch Gray/Black Mast Light Gray/Red Spotlight Remote Gray/Orange Docking Lights Gray/Green Strobe or Beacon Gray/Blue Spreader/Flood Lights Gray/Violet Windlass/Winch Gray Navigation (running) Lights, Tach. Send Gray/White Anchor Light White/Brown Temp. Alarm or Indicator White/Red Fuel Alarm or Indicator ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition) White/Orange Fire Alarm or Indicator White/Yellow Air Flow Alarm or Indicator White/Green Water Press/Flow Alarm or Indicator ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition) White/Blue Oil Press Alarm or Indicator White/Violet Voltage Alarm or Indicator White General Alarm Usage, Yamaha Kill Switch Tan Water Temp sender Tan/Blue Warning system sense wire (Audio warning) Let me know if this helps :)

Hi Patricklindahl, thanks for watching and comment. Yes of course they are many better ways of doing this set up. But this is the way most people have it, This diagram is to help people that have problem with this setup.

There are pros and cons to doing it with the charger for sure. First of all those switches aren't crappy and likely more reliable than the charger, secondly there are more reasons to do this than just charging. Isolating a dead battery in a breakdown situation and running engine and house on one battery would be the most obvious.