Crutchfield still has it, just on back order right now: www.crutchfield.com/S-aU29SBIy06t/p_541RPSPDIF/PAC-RPA-SPDIF-Amplifier-Interface.html

@@ScottSchramm Appreciate the reply. Yes, it is listed, but they are out of stock and not renewing. Best Buy, Crutchfield, Amazon, Discount Stereo., etc. all show it, but when you contact them they tell you it is backordered. PAC says they have plenty, you just have to find a seller that will specialty order it. They said, these large companies buy in bulk, and given the age of the car (2010-2015), most will not buy it in bulk given there is little demand left. So, hence why I went with your second option by replacing the OEM AMP with a new 5.1 AMP. It was not that much and it allowed me to install a more powerful sub and speakers. However, I certainly would not have known any of this if it were not for your video. As a matter of fact, we are buying a new truck and it has the same issue, though their PAC device is available given it is a newer car, so you solved that problem with your solution!! Thank you very much for putting this video together and allowing me to move in the right direction!!!

You're welcome! Glad I could help!

Hi! Mine failed as well it died: then suddenly it turned on by it self and when restarted the car it was dead again. I replaced the head unit with the same model and it worked but when I restaryed rhe car it died again. This is a real nightmare. Fuses are ok and reseted the radio by removing the fuse but no luck yet. If you have any advise is more than welcome.

You are correct, the PAC device only has front left and front right connections. To adjust the fader you can connect a PC to the module and through their software program you can adjust the fade, balance, EQ, etc. The downside is you can't adjust it on the fly from the head unit, but I've never had the need to do that so I don't mind. The other one (Metra/Axxess) that I first tried did have 4 ch input, however I had multiple issues with it. Like yours it would not shut off right, and the steering wheel controls would not all work. As for buying the PAC, here are a few places I found that still sell it: www.crutchfield.com/S-s2jJgksX0pf/p_541RP4HY11/PAC-RP4-2-HY11-Wiring-Interface.html www.sonicelectronix.com/item_112739_PAC-RadioPro-RP4.2-HY11.html www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-2-HY11-Replacement-Interface-Pre-Programmed/dp/B00T3QC3R0 www.ebay.com/itm/RP4-2-HY11-Radio-Replacement-Interface-w-Steering-Controls-for-NON-NAV-Hyundai-/361344440114

I've had this setup for a few years now and still like it and would do it again. I do not recommend the Android head units. They look cool, but they have horrible sound quality and their UI is laggy. The RP4.2-HY11 does retain the OEM USB, AUX, SWC and backup camera (I didn't have one, but there is a hookup for it). It does not retain the OEM mic, but it was crap and most head units come with their own mic anyways. As far as the GPS antenna you can hook that up directly to an outboard SirusXM tuner if you buy that add-on, but I never used the satellite radio so I skipped that and left that wire tied up in the back. If you bought a head unit with that tuner built in, or with a navigation system built in, you could probably still hook up the GPS antenna no problem as I think its a universal connector.

@@ScottSchramm thanks alot scott .very helpful . 👌🏽🙌🏽🙏🏽. I got all my answers thanks alot .

I haven't tried removing those speakers but I know its possible. Here is a guide someone else wrote up which may help you: www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/3-5-dash-speakers-w-o-modifying-car.131703/#post-970432

The temperature does still show on the OEM screen. I believe the RadioPro interface is what retains that. As for the subwoofer yes if you get a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub, then it can be wired to present a 2 ohm load to the amp. Here is how that works: images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Nope I never had that problem, but many Hyundais have a known defect with the engines, there has been class action lawsuits too, so I doubt your subwoofer caused the issue.

If you install your own external amp then no, you shouldn't need any of these items since you can run RCA direct from your aftermarket head unit into your external amp. However if you want steering wheel controls and your head unit don't have an interface for that then you might want to get either the PAC RP4.2-HY11, or PAC makes a cheaper "universal one" that is cheaper that only does SWC since that's all you may need. Just avoid the Metra/Axxess stuff...that garbage never worked in my car.

You will need the PAC RP4.2-HY11 and the PAC RPA-SPDIF

By "amplifying tool" are you referring to the RPA-SPDIF? If so, that is very install since its plug and play with the PAC RP4.2-HY11

i’m referring to the Metra AX-HYKIA-SPDIF amplifying retention interface. i am already buying the radio system pre wires and crimped if that helps lol

DO NOT BUY THE METRA - I had nothing but issues with that device. See this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b72qq8qqutvMn2w.html

The factory amplifier does have capacity for the dual voice coil 8" subwoofer but there are not many replacement options that match the size, impedance, etc to upgrade the OEM subwoofer. I did install an external amp and subwoofer briefly shown at 1:12 in the video. If you want more power or better quality, you're best off to run RCA cables from your aftermarket stereo into a separate monoblock amplifier and run a subwoofer off that. Then disconnect the factory subwoofer as you don't want that playing at the same time as your aftermarket sub.

@@ScottSchramm i have a stock radio, so instead of having to tap into that or splice into one of the speakers on the rear door, I can ‘splice”/use a converter into the factory amp right?

@@6atlantis You would want to tap into the wires going into the factory subwoofer. Some amps have a high level input, otherwise use a line converter for an amp that needs low-level/RCA. If you go this route, you'll want to set the bass to around -7 to get a clean signal. You would think 0 would be flat, but when I tapped into mine I found it was boosted way too much and around -7 produced a good level for my amp and from there you can adjust the gain to suit your preferences.

@@ScottSchramm awesome. Thanks again!

It depends.....if you want to wire your new speakers directly into your head unit, you would need to run new wires from the head unit to each speaker. I will warn you that the amp in most head units is not as powerful as the OEM amp, but I would not recommend using the OEM amp with aftermarket speakers. Installing an aftermarket amp will give you the best sound but will obviously cost the most. If you want to re-use the OEM speaker wires you can get the Metra 70-7305 amzn.to/3oUg4Dl but this is good option if your amp will be in the trunk. Otherwise you'd have to extend all those wires to the front and at that point you might as well new wires directly to the speakers from the front. If you want to use the OEM amp (easiest) then go with the two PAC devices I mentioned and showed in my video.

@@ScottSchramm awesome! And yeah which Aftermarket Amp would be the best with this model?

​@@Beastgonerage Personally I am using the OEM amp for the 6 mid/high speakers and a Alpine MRV-M500 (mono): amzn.to/3r3p2jr for my subwoofers. If you want something small to power the front speakers the Alpine KTA-450 (small 4ch): amzn.to/37tQpLG is a good option. For more power (but larger size) is the Alpine MRV-F300 (4ch): amzn.to/37segf2 and if you want to run 4ch + 1 for the subwoofer then the JBL Club-4505 5ch: amzn.to/2WlrcwS is a good option. Alpine also has some 5 ch options but they are very expensive.

I used the speaker wires from the factory, so I did not need to run any new wires into the doors.

It takes 6.5" or 6.75" speakers, 2 ohms. Crutchfield can help: www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Car-Speakers.html?l=C

There is a gain pot (flat resessed knob) on the SPDIF adapter. Make sure that is turned up, go slowly. If still no sound at all, what head unit did you get and how do you have it connected to the RadioPro interface?

@@ScottSchramm dude you’re awesomeeee 😭😭was literally scratching my head over bought it used with no instructions so had to figured everything out thank you saved me so much time this thing sounds great

The PAC unit should retain the screen, but its not really of any use except for the outside temperature. The clock will always as 12:00 and below that will just say "AUX Connected". For the short time I used the system this way before installing an iPad, I ended up covering the screen with cardboard with only a cut out in the corner for the temperature because I was so annoyed with it! lol

Did you install the SPDIF adapter?

⁠@@ScottSchramm don’t install I have android radio and factory amplifier but no sound nothing can u send me plz parts name or link plz thank u

@@sabhibagri1804the part you need is in the video description

Ugh, Crutchfield must have messed it up again. I even left a review on their site, they verified it, and fixed it but I just checked again and you're right, they are saying it's not compatible again but it definitely still is. Here is a direct link to the manufactures website if you want to verify the compatibility yourself: catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/radio-replacement/rp4-2-hy11 Amazon currently has the lowest price so if you want to buy I'd recommend using the link in my video description :)

@@ScottSchrammThanks man! Now if only there was a better dash kit other than the Metra...

The one linked in my video description. It is the ONLY choice if you are retaining the factory amp.

I don't think the PAC adapters are compatible with the models that have factory navigation. Sadly you can't just bypass the amp and connect the speakers directly into the aftermarket head unit because the the impedance is too low. (2ohms) you'd need to get at least a 4 channel amp and wire the factory speakers into that. It's do-able, but more complicated and costly.

Here you go! cl.ly/k7YH/2011_Sonata_with_Amp.JPG cl.ly/k805/2011_Sonata_with_Amp1.JPG

Sorry, I don't have any experience with the factory navigation model as mine did not have that. The best thing I can suggest is to buy it from a retailer that allows free returns so if it doesn't work you can just return it.

Will i need both PAC adapters tho?

@@robinsonvz Yes because the Infinity system is digital just like the Dimension amp so you'll need that adapter to use the analog from your headunit

I'll buy the PAC adapters and hope they workout for me, that I'm not just spending all this money for nothing. If you know someone else with the same 'situation' nav system and they got through, has some tips, i would appreciate it! Thanks very helpful!🙏🏽

@@robinsonvz If it doesn't work, I've added two alternatives that Crutchfeild says will work with the navigation system to my video description.

I looked up the guide and it says the wire is Violet/White. catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1545

The cheaper Metra 70-7304 is analog only. If you have the base model/GLS then you could use either the metra 70-7304 (basic functions only) or the RP 4.2 for all functions (like bulit in steering wheel control interface, etc). If you have the Dimension audio system, then you NEED the RP 4.2 and the SPDIF adapter. That is the only combination that will work and those two parts are made to work with one another. Yes the pair is pricey, but it's plug and play easy and works. If you really wanted to try and hack something together you could try but I would not recommend fooling with it.

@@ScottSchramm how will I know if I have the Dimension audio system. I have 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE (Regular radio no screen with GPS). And isn't analog bypassing the stock amp and won't that sound terrible?

@@chrisb8870 If your stock stereo system has two knobs with preset buttons 1-6 in a grid between them you do not have the Dimension system meaning the amplifier is built into the head unit and the speakers plug directly into it. This is fully analog. In that setup, can use the cheaper metra wire harness and you can install any aftermarket head unit and connect the speakers directly to it. It will sound the same. Now if your stock stereo only has one knob and its centered, and your 1-6 preset buttons are in a row above the CD slot (the one shown in my video) then you have the dimension system. This system sends a digital signal to the amp in the trunk where it is then converted to analog. If you have this system, you need the Radio Pro and SPDIF adapter to make it work. The only other option is to bypass the factory amp and use your own amp, but you'll need to do a lot of wiring for that to work.

@@ScottSchramm oh man you saved me a lot of time. I appreciate you straightening that out for me. I have the simple 2 knob radio so i guess its analog and can use metra harness. Sounds like less work also. If its cool I would like to share your video and information on a sonata group on Facebook. Im sure there are some people who were as confused as me.

@@chrisb8870 Awesome, I'm glad I could help. And yes, feel free to to share this video on Facebook!

Yes, but it typically costs more for custom work

Hello. Unfortunately I do not have any experience with that head unit however its just the matter of finding the audio outputs of it and then adapting it to the module which converts it to SPDIF for the OEM amp. My guess is the headunit you bought only supports the base model connections where the speakers connect directly to the headunit and not the upgraded like ours which have the Dimension amp. You will need these two parts: Wire harness/SWC: www.crutchfield.com/S-G5EAUBPWQcg/p_541RP4HY11/PAC-RP4-2-HY11-Wiring-Interface.html SPDIF converter: www.amazon.com/RPASPDIF-RP4-2-HY11-RP4-2-HY12-RP5-2-HY11-RP5-2-HY12/dp/B01E4YXPM2 Then you will need to take the front left and front right outputs of your headunit and run those into the PAC adapters and that should get the signal into all of the speakers through the factory amp.

thanks so much for the quick reply. really grateful. quick question... if i connect the front left and front right outputs of my headunit to the PAC adapters, what happens to the rear left and rear right output? any idea where i connect them? Cuz i observed the image of the PAC wiring interface and i see it doesnt have a RL and RR input. Anyway, even if it doesnt work well, i'm grateful for your advice. Thanks so much.

The rear connections are not used, so you can just tape off those wires. The PAC device will take the front left and right signal and mix it to front, rear and subwoofer channels. You will not be be able to use the "fader" control on the headunit (to control how much sound comes out of the front vs the rear) however the PAC device has an app for PC in which you can control that if you need to.

If you have the 6 disc changer (Dimension system) then yes you need both.

@@ScottSchramm I don’t

@@franchisebarber1017 then you don’t need the SPDIF adapter, just the RP

@@ScottSchramm thank you this whole time I didn’t try to install anything thinking I needed the second one

If you have a question, ask it here.

www.hsguide.net/audio_unit_components_and_components_location-475.html