Find Them Here: www.woodbywright.com/shop Install Instructions: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1opA6wdRsJZdNe9ixLq9nHef65SEcFlyV?usp=sharing

У меня была старая некомплектная основа от рубанка. Я купил на ebay за бесценок лягушку от старого Stanley со сломанной yoke. У нее была отломана одна половинка. Немного подумав, я взял небольшую пластину стали толщиной в 3 миллиметра, которая была у меня в сарае. Я вырезал из нее две половинки yoke как делают на современных дешёвых рубанках. Согнул их, склепал вместе, подогнал напильником к adjuster и пазу в стружколоме, просверлил отверстие и даже покрасил, чтобы изделие имело законченный вид. Все это заняло у меня около двух часов. Уже пару-тройку лет рубанок радует меня отличным строганием.

It took a while to get the Reed parts (I live in Malaysia) and have just completed the replacement Yoke on my no 5 and it's working real well - thank you for making this video I followed it exactly.

Harry Potter guy?! Glad you're making wood working videos too!

Thanks For the video. I have 5 of thr DIY version to install this weekend. Backlash begone!

These are the parts that I've been waiting for. Thank you for helping to bring them into reality!

More than one way to skin a cat, found it easier to open up the adjuster nut to fit the yoke. Perfect fit.

Excellent!

Awesome, James! Thanks a lot! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I’ll second the advice not to drill out the hole with a 1/8” bit. Go with a 7/64” or letter size. Now I have just a little too much slop in the pin hole, but it’s not so horrible. If I get tired of it I may replace the pin with a 1/8”, but likely not so I don’t drill into cast iron. It should be a couple hours of work at most to file and fit the yoke and install the new depth adjuster. One of the reasons I was so excited to upgrade to the yoke and new depth adjuster was the screw on the old depth adjuster was chewed up. And this allowed me to reuse a questionable frog and give it new life. I’d highly recommend these upgrades.

Eagerly awaiting my kit - My trusty No 4 1/2 is already a fine tool; I can't wait to see the improvement.

Great video and great information !

How about bushing and drilling the original yoke? Half way there. I find the huge backlash annoying on my Stanleys but I have a couple of high end planes without it so much. I tend to have two or three Stanley planes each set for different thickness. I think I’ll try the Reed yokes.

when word of these gets out to the hand tool wood working community as a whole you wont be able to keep these in stock. these upgrades takes all together can upgrade any quality antique to the level of modern high quality planes with the exception of the cast iron vs ducktile

I'm not sure if this would work or not, but maybe you could set up your vice to be the same distance as the slot in your nut with sandpaper adhered to both sides and wiggle it until it fits. It could possibly make things a little more foolproof or....it may not work at all lol who knows

These look great! I have a few planes with those annoying split yokes. But I probably won't be able to get these until after the new year. Does Reed have any plans to convert the traditional frog into a movable frog like a bedrock?

I'm in the midst of repairing an old Bailey No. 4 that is bizarre. It might be a chimeric frankenplane. Not sure. The problem with it is that the blade would not fully retract. You had to keep a tiny gap with the chip breaker and pull the blade up the frog before latching down the lever cap. Forget about any camber across the blade. I found that the yoke was wonky. It was too fat and was interfering with the back of the depth knob so you couldn't run the knob all the way in. I filed it down and this fixed half of the problem. Still not enough, though. Comparing to other planes, I found that the nose of the yoke (that engages the cap iron) was too skinny on the top side...it was too tapered. So, it could not lift the blade back far enough. A JB Kwik Weld patch didn't hold. I'm going to buy one of your yokes and see if all will be well. Based on all of this, I want to make a couple comments: - At 4:11you file the frog side of the lobes. I think this is important. If one files the knob side, you might run into the problem I had with the Bailey. - At 8:51 you file the underside of the nose, then go back and forth. I guess based on what I encountered with the Bailey, I'm inclined to file the top as little as possible to maintain as much retraction as possible. I'm wondering if you've ever had trouble with not having enough retraction after installing one of these? I could see the filing I just mentioned being one cause. I could also imagine that the pin hole location could affect the retraction, but am guessing that there is enough meat at the nose that maybe this isn't a real worry?

Hola , me gusta. Mucho tus vídeos y los veo muchas veces , son muy buenos , Necesito comprar esas 2 partes , estoy restaurando una garlopa # 7 , marca Stanley , y en mi país no co sigo las partes , Saludos desde Costa Rica 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

I've been thinking of it, and for the micro adjustment, could you use a planetary gear system?

Hi James, thank you for such instructive video. It encourages me to finish the repair of my no 5. I just wonder, will you makeover all you planes?

Can't wait to get my new yoke so I can try to get my Ohio 5 1/2 to accept hock iron and chip breaker. I'll let you know if it works

Hi Mr. Wright. Out of curiosity, have you installed this yoke on your Taytools plane? I purchased a scratch-and-dent one from them (big mistake) and there's a lot of play in the yoke. I'm wondering if this will alleviate some of the issues I've been having with it. Thanks!

Could you take your original yoke and mushroom it out to reduce the slop?

My biggest worry is hole placement on the yoke, not necessarily drilling it out. How do I tell I have it placed in the ideal position?

i need one of these for a miller falls smoother, do you know if they are the same?

Any chance that these parts can work on a Record plane?

Bought one each of the yokes and they have a lot of extra meat on them, more than I feel comfortable trying to remove. Spent a good while carefully filing to see if I could get the portion that engages the adjusting nut perfectly round. Got them to within .001 of round but need to remove about .040 to fit the nut. Came up with a better way, make an adjustable, adjustment nut. Need a 9/32-24 left hand tap to fabricate it, anybody know of a source in the USA for this tap?

I've never had any issues with backlash on depth adjusters. Having to wind an extra spin of the adjuster takes a second, no problems.

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Quit yoking around!

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Number bits 1- 60 not letter bits are the proper way to go.

Excellent !