Any time.

Any time

You are correct I new exactly where the studs located. You need to make sure you don't cut the stud.

He Did say at some point to be clear of Studs, wiring and water pipes

@@josephk9182 This is fantastic Joseph! Exactly what I was looking for adding a couple vents I need for an ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) for my condo in Chicago. They never designed these systems correct in the past, because there is no adequate ventilation in homes or condos. They designed more & more efficient (sealed) through the decades but did not take into account it then needs more ventilation. Anyway great tips! Thanks again :)

@@MrBobbyfulmer Thank You.

The stud is where the electrical outlet is located. In his case just to the left of the vent hole

Thank You

lol me too. some contractor wanted almost $600 bucks...no thanks!

I agree.

Any time.

exactly....

Very good

Thank You

Joseph K n

Any time.

Michael DeMar V

Any time.

Thank for the tip.

Thank you

thank you.

Thank You

Thank You.

You are correct. I instead used foam which is equivalent.

+PilotVBall I just google it . You are correct there is siding mount kit for vinyl siding which was not in our local HD and Low's . The foam and silicon sealed the vent to the vinyl got the same result.

I agree.

+mrrainingforce Foam called Great Stuff Caps & Cracks (Home Depot and Loews) www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-16-oz-Gaps-and-Cracks-Insulating-Foam-Sealant-162848/100003351

It should be the same dimeter and yes you can use this saw .

+Diane Gordon The rough teeth will jump if you drive it in forwards, especially in soft, thin materials like vinyl siding. Running it in reverse produces cleaner cut in vinyl and since it's a very thin, very soft material you can run it in reverse the entire cut. Running it in reverse on sturdier materials like the wood and sheet rock creates a starter groove to help keep it from jumping or walking.

+Diane Gordon Please see what Sentios wrote.

+Sentios Thanks for the answer

While their are better methods, that also look a bit cleaner, using a combination of foam and silicone is usually sufficient to properly seal the hole for many years if done correctly. Of course no matter what method used, it always comes down to user application.

+Rick the Swift spray foam is for insulating. NOT weather proofing. Silicone should be used because it weatherproofs and is flexible so it moves with the expansion and contraction during temperature change. Foam simply does not.

@@chrisblack6331 I agree that there are better methods to seal the hole, such as using a siding block to get a flush finish and from there using silicone, however the combo ofexpanding foam and silicone as he did in this video is very effective and is a viable long term solution.

Thant what I did . Thanks

Yes and make sure that in a 2" radius there are no water pipe, electricity and stud.

@@josephk9182 Right! So important to know what's inside the wall first...but also make sure to leave room for that big rectangle vent on the outside.

And also when drilling the pilot hole, make sure it has a slight downward pitch from inside to outside. This ensures that any moisture that condenses in it will run outside, and not into your dryer hose.

The diameter of the venting duck.

It never happen and I am living in a wet environment.

Well what is the best practice then?

@@MrBobbyfulmer I installed a bathroom exhaust vent when finishing my basement -- similar to what he's doing here for this dryer vent installation. I cringed when I saw how he used great stuff to seal for two reasons: 1) Any great stuff I've used to patch up exterior holes on my house has eventually turned a dark orange and flaked away due to UV, heat, the elements in general -- this is true even when I've used it in areas that are never in direct sunlight. While great stuff is far better than nothing, if you go that route you should check the foam's integrity every few years and be prepared to claw away the failing foam with your utility knife and spray some more to replace it. This is the kind of annoying upkeep task that even a well-meaning homeowner can easily forget and if you sell the home the next owner is unlikely to ever think about. 2) He appeared to only seal about a half circle with the great stuff on each side. To get a true air seal you need to seal a full 360 degrees around the cutout. I could be wrong, maybe he did go 360 but I didn't see it. For my project I used 100% silicone caulk around the entire circumference of the cutout on the exterior side and was liberal in applying it, giving it 48 hours+ to dry before I monkeyed with it any further. At that point I used great stuff -- the exact same kind of great stuff he has in this video -- to further seal it around the circumference of the cutout from the inside (which was hidden from sight in a joist bay above a drop ceiling).

I sealed top and bottom , not everything is in the video.

There is no issue insulation will be contacting the hot dryer vent line. The insulation is fire resistant.

Any time.

@@josephk9182 "demonstration," excuse me.

Insulation was put as needed.

You right I should say it.

The gap is a result of the vinyl siding. I did put silicon and foam to seal this gap.

@@josephk9182 Hi Joseph, I think what the viewer is referring to is called a "siding block". They make ones which are formed to cover and fill the gaps in your vinyl siding, or alternatively you can make your own using a square block of wood. To do this, you would simply cut away a square hole in your vinyl siding the size of the block (which should be greater than your vent cover). Then using a little bit of flashing, you can install the block directly onto your sheathing, preferably sealing the two with silicone. Then you can cut your 4" hole into that block to run your dryer vent through. To be really thorough you would also line the siding with proper J-channel just as any other place where siding meets trim boards. This way you have a perfectly flat surface to mount your vent cover too, and no water is able to penetrate into your wall from the outside. Hope that helps :) Great video too btw, it included some really good tips like using the hole saw to cut the insulation cleanly. I probably would have just hacked it with my knife. I'll try it your way now. Thumbs up.

Thanks a lot for the information.