Awesome to hear, Jon, thanks for sharing! Thanks for the kind words, and for watching.

Thanks so much for the kind words, both on the structure and the video itself! We hope to get more helpful videos posted. If you wanted more details on the greenhouse in the video, there is a link in the description of the video.

Wow, thanks so much for the kind words! I'm hoping to ramp up video production so hopefully we can make some other helpful ones for you. Thanks for watching!

@@tunnelvisionhoops ++++++.

Thanks for the kind words!

Hi Ibrahim, thanks for the kind words, and for watching. Much love from the USA! Happy to hear your project is going well.

Sorry to hear you lost your cover! Hope you are able to get another on without any issues. Thanks for watching!

Very happy to hear, Diane! Love hearing when a video has helped; thanks so much for watching!

Thanks for the kind words! Happy growing (or building)!

Thanks, Andrew, appreciate you watching!!

Thank you so much for the kind words, and the support! Both really mean a lot to us. We will continue to put together helpful instructional videos so stay tuned. Sounds like you are being very resourceful; very cool! We are here when you need us! Thanks again!

You are welcome, hope it helped, and good luck with your project!

Will do!

Thanks for watching all the plastic installation related videos. Best of luck in any of your upcoming high tunnel projects!

If it gets on there without blowing away... you have done it correctly! Thanks for watching, and hope all your projects go well!

Thanks for watching and for the kind words! I will say that if the day isn't calm... it definitely can be a comedic experience. Thanks again!!

Thanks, Susan, and thanks for watching!

Thank you so much! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching, and for providing the kind words. The main thing for any plastic install is picking the right day... a perfectly calm day can make a newbie feel like an expert... and a windy day can make an expert look like an amateur. Hope your projects all go well in the future!

That is awesome to hear! Love hearing that the video was helpful. Thanks so much for watching!

Happy to hear, and thanks for watching! We also have poly videos for end-walls, corner panels, and two layers of inflated poly. Good luck on your replacement!

Thanks for the kind words! We are happy you have found this video helpful. We hope to get more instructional videos up soon!

Hi Scotty, love hearing that the video has been a helpful reference point. Thank you so much for watching, and best of luck with all your projects.

You’re welcome! Happy it was helpful, Jessica, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words, and for watching!

Thanks!

Thanks much!

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Happy to have helped in your time of need! Keep growing!

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!

Thanks! Yeah, it can sometimes be a challenge getting a team together. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words. Sounds like you will be a pro by the time you are done! If you need anything for the installs feel free to shoot us an email.

Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching!

Thanks! Here is a video showing how Spring Wire is used: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdlod9Z9sJ-ZdHU.html The way we install Spring Wire in the video referenced above is exactly how we are installing it in the top cover installation video.

I think this would work pretty well, as long as the plastic roll itself could be balanced consistently through the full length of the house. For tall houses I would be worried I'd lose my grip and drop the entire roll, lol! Thanks for watching!

Hello! Thanks for watching and for the kind words. For the second layer on a big tunnel like that it is very important to splay out the plastic as it is being pulled down the peak of the structure. This almost gets the plastic so it looks like it is being partially unfolded to the left and right of the peak. this creates adequate counter weight on the left and right for a successful second layer pull. That said, there is NO question that pulling a second layer of plastic on a structure can be more difficult that the first layer. Good luck in getting that second layer on. Let us know how it turns out and how you ended up getting it on if you can.

...a crew of 8 could not manipulate 300lbs? :) You would have a time with my 700lb motorcycle. ;)

Thanks for watching and the kind words. The technique for putting wire in the peak at each end BEFORE unfolding is pretty much just as follows: 1. Get the plastic into position. 2. Push the folds aside to the left and right at the end - this way there is just a single layer of plastic overlapping the channel. 3. Start a piece of spring wire in the exposed plastic (not the folds). I usually start this piece of wire about a foot or two to the left of the peak, and then continue it to a foot or two to the right of the peak. 4. The above should be done at each end before dropping the folds. 5. After it is unfolded you may find that you can make your peak attachment tighter / take slack out of it. If so, you can get up there, undo the wire, pull more excess plastic over the end bow toward the outside of the structure, and then re-fasten the wire. Hope the above helps a bit. Thanks for watching!

Just wrap one end of the plastic film around a smooth steel pipe or stick and pull it hard.

More than welcome!

Thanks much! Funny you ask because we just posted another video on installing roll-up sides that shows how a roll-up bar can be attached to the greenhouse plastic so the sides open up for ventilation. Here is a link to that video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e89jmMiB3MrUqYE.html&t= There are a variety of ways you could ventilate your structure at each end-wall and at the peak, in addition to the roll-up sides which I mention above. If you have electricity you could hook an exhaust fan to one end, and an intake shutter to the opposite end. If you do not have electricity there are passive ventilation options that allow hot air that rises to simply leave out an opening you would make at each end. There are also aluminum shutters that open and close automatically using expanding cylinders full of wax that are specifically designed for our greenhouse structures. Hope that helps!

Thanks for the questions and kind words on the videos. How many trusses you need would partially be dictated by your climate, but also by the diameter of tubing you would be using for your bows. For our applications we do trusses and truss supports (also referred to as rafters) on every other interior bow OR every interior bow. To answer your question, we do sell just trusses if you need just trusses, or if you are frugal and want to make your own, our site sells end-cups which can be screwed to the end of round tubing to create a hole that can bolt to a brace band. If you want pricing on structures, parts and pieces, or anything else you should check out the Tunnel Vision Hoops website and you can send us a message on our "contact us" page and someone could help you more directly (and specifically). Thanks!

Yes I have, and the process is very similar. The main difference is in the way woven plastics usually come… they are most often folded and boxed, as opposed to being gusset folded on a hollow cardboard cylinder. This means there is a bit more prep work required to get the woven plastic lined up at the end wall so that it can be pulled over the structure lengthwise. With the above being said, I still prefer getting the woven plastic at one end, tying a knot with a nub, and pulling it lengthwise… I still think it goes smoother than pulling plastic over the side of the structure as many others do. The other thing I’ll say about woven plastics, is they seem to be more difficult to pull really tight. As in, once you pull it tightly, you’re not going to get another inch out of it, that is the maximum amount you can pull it. Hope the above helps, and best of luck with your projects.

We secured our end-wall plastic with Snap Clamps so we would be able to attach the top cover AND end-wall cover with the same single run of Spring Wire. You can watch how we attached the end-wall plastic in this video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtGDn8SJt6_Sp4U.html. If you had wanted to secure your end wall plastic with Spring Wire before attaching your top cover with Spring Wire, the channel **should** be large enough to receive the two pieces of plastic and the two runs of Spring Wire.

I have done so in the past if metal coming into contact with the plastic seemed to be especially sharp. In my situations, I just wrapped or placed some duct tape over those locations.

Thanks for the kind words! We plan on continuing to make similar videos that help small farmers, so hopefully some upcoming videos are equally as helpful to you. As far as the Channel Lock and Spring Wire, one piece of wire will hold three layers of standard 6 mil greenhouse plastic without a problem. That said, if you are using an old piece of wire that has had the tension reduced through years of being used and re-used, I would opt to use new Spring Wire, or to overlap two pieces of wire.

Thanks man. Big time help. Everything turned out great. Pulling the plastic over the top made it go very easy.

Awesome, I love that! Congrats on the successful project.

Hi Mike, I actually used Snap Clamps to hold the end-wall plastic in place, which allows the plastic to be held in place WITHOUT Spring Wire. This means when I install the top cover plastic into the end-wall channel there is just one run of Spring Wire holding in both the top cover and end-wall covers. So, two pieces of plastic and one run of Spring Wire. As I install the spring wire, I can reach into the structure and pull of the Snap Clamps if the end-wall plastic is too tight. Here are the Snap Clamps I am referring to: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/

There are more variables than wind that need to be factored into location and structure orientation, but most often high tunnels and hoop houses are oriented so the ends of the structure face the wind. That is to say, if wind is coming from the west, the structure is set up so it runs from east-to-west. The major wind protection features of a house are oriented to protect the structure if wind hits the end-walls hardest. These features help disperse the wind pressure throughout the entire structure - corner braces, peak braces, purlins, and hip-rails are examples of these types of features. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the kind words! To answer your question, the end-walls in the video have been "roughed in" using Snap Clamps; these components are used to hold the end-wall plastic in place without any wire. You can watch how we use these when installing the end-wall plastic in this video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtGDn8SJt6_Sp4U.html&t= and you can find some pictures of the Snap Clamps in use here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ With the above being said, I do have a few small pieces of Spring Wire holding the end-wall plastic in place, and these small pieces of Spring Wire can be used to hold the plastic in place instead of Snap Clamps if you prefer. In the scenario that you have used these small lengths of Spring Wire to hold the end-wall plastic in place it shouldn't be a problem to go over your top cover plastic with Spring Wire AND leave the Spring Wire in place that is holding the end-wall cover on. It shouldn't hurt anything. If you were planning to install a double layer greenhouse plastic top cover you may want to remove the small pieces of Spring Wire, as you secure the top covers, in order to reduce the amount of "stuff" being put in the channel. This would ensure that you can secure your end plastic, and two top plastic coverings, and still fit your Spring Wire into the channel. Otherwise though, it shouldn't hurt anything to wire over other wire. Snap Clamps are a good way to avoid this issue though since they can hold the end-wall plastic in place without the use of any Spring Wire.

Yes you can install wiggle wire over the other wiggle wire if you are using two covers. I do and h avent had any issues. Simple answer for you.

Jason A. Thanks!!

No reason you can’t double up. The track should be able to hold that amount of plastic AND wire, without issue

You are more than welcome! The curved pipes you refer to are the bows / arches of the structure, and all of the components in the video (including the curved pipe) can be found and purchased here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com

You're welcome :) Thanks for watching!

Good question, for most 6 mil greenhouse plastics, they are folded inwardly in about 2 ft. or 3 ft. folds through the entire length of the structure; when the folding is completed you will have half the plastic folded on the left side of the roll and half the plastic folded on the right side of the roll - most widths (up to 54 ft. wide) can fit on a cardboard cylinder that is a 88 inches long. This makes it easier for the plastic to ship even when the width of the plastic is pretty wide.

Yes we do! You can find here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e89jmMiB3MrUqYE.html or by browsing our channel. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment! You can get a quote on any of our structures by submitting a quote request through our website contact form (www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/contact-us/). Just let us know what approximate width and length you want as well as what your shipping zip code you would want the structure shipped to.

Good question. Here is a link to the double channel (hip-rail): www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/double-channel-poly-lock-and-spring-wire-greenhouse-plastic-attachment-6-ft/ Here is a link to the single channel (used over the end-bows): www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/poly-lock-channel-and-spring-wire-greenhouse-film-fastening-system-6-ft/

Definitely make sure the winds are predicted to be calm! Good luck, and thanks for watching!

has any one ordered the plastic?? is it really clear?? or like that,, i have nosy neighbors ' this plastic looks fine in person

@@Angel42515 There is plastic that is more "clear" and there is plastic that is very opaque. If you are really concerned about people seeing inside your structure I would recommend our 12 mil woven greenhouse plastic - it makes seeing inside / being able to tell what is growing inside, very difficult. Here is a link to that product: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/12-mil-anti-condensate-greenhouse-plastic-various-sizes/

I use snap clamps (linked at the bottom of this comment) to hold the end-wall plastic in place so that when the top cover plastic is secured on the end-hoop it only requires one run of wire to hold both layers of plastic. This method makes the order of operations: end plastic/top plastic/wire. If I am doing a double layer of film I would usually put wire only in a few spots of the first layer before pulling the second cover; this way I can secure most of both layers with just one run of wire over each. A good channel can DEFINITELY hold two layers of wire and three layers of plastic. When doing a double layer plastic covering the order of operations are: end plastic/first layer plastic/wire/second layer plastic/wire. Here is a link to the Snap Clamps that help me hold the end plastic in place without having to add another run of wire in the channel: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ A good Spring Wire Channel should be able to hold three layers of plastic and two layers of wire (and then some). Here is a link to the channel we carry that comes with spring wire: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/poly-lock-channel-and-spring-wire-greenhouse-film-fastening-system-6-ft/

Got it. Thanks for the help. Your videos are the most straightforward I’ve seen on the topic and I’ve watched a lot of them!

Thanks for the kind words, we appreciate it! We are always trying to add helpful content.

For single layer structures the rule of the thumb is to try and get the plastic as tight as possible without damaging the plastic. When I say "as tight as possible without damaging" I am referring to what might happen at the point of attachment with spring wire channel and wire...If you pull it so tight that the wire is puncturing the plastic as it is being fastened to the channel then it is too tight and you need to let up the grip on the plastic as you push the wire over the plastic and into the channel. For double layer structures you do not need to install the first layer super tight. Instead, just focus on squaring the plastic cover and getting any noticeable wrinkles out. Once squared, you can install the second layer of plastic with the same exact methodology. That is to say, you do not want to make it super tight. Instead, let it rest square on the structure and remove any large wrinkles / floppy folds. If you follow this route the inflation fan will put the necessary pressure on the plastic and make the two layers as tight as they need to be for full function. I am making a video on this process now...it is just taking longer than I would like to edit!!

@@tunnelvisionhoops Did you end up editing the video on double layer? Thanks keep it up!

@@bluntsparkinthepark I just got back to some editing recently and I am trying to ice that one off next. I just published the plastic repair video and the double layer is in progress... I am REALLY hoping to complete that one soon here. Haven't meant to string anyone along (sorry!)... Soon I hope!

Or do you use double channel wire when installing the end walls so that one channel is used for the walls and one channel is used to attach the plastic over the length of the hoops?

Thanks for the question(s). Typically, there is just one run of single channel that goes over the top of each end-bow. This single channel has enough space in it to receive two layers (or more) of plastic AND two layers of wire (or more in some cases). With the above being said, the way we do our end-wall plastic first is by having the end-wall pieces attached to the end-bow with Snap Clamps temporarily so that the wire we use to install the top cover will hold both the top cover AND end-wall cover in place. We have an end-wall plastic installation video as well - I would check it out to see what our steps are for the end-walls. Thanks for watching!

Depending on the variety of plastic you’re using, yes. For our videos we were using anti-drip plastic, and for that it matters which side of the plastic faces in and which side faces out. To achieve that, we had to pull our brand of plastic over the structure the way we had it. There are also often markings on the plastic covers that state which side must face inward. That dictates how the plastic must be installed. Hope that helps.

We might be able to help, please shoot us a detailed email at info@tunnelvisionhoops.com outlining what you need

Thanks for the comment, Joe! I just sent an email this morning. Also, based on those temps, I’d definitely suggest two layers inflated poly, maybe 8mm twin wall polycarb on ends, frost blanket for inside the structure, and some form of heating element. Thanks again for watching!

Do you guys build at places I have gunnera and fruit trees so it has to stay warm and humid in the greenhouse I’d like to have a 40’x100’ 12 tall greenhouse that can grow all year and would like some price checks

Also how would I make a double layer inflated cattle panel style greenhouse?

I was also planning when I do my huge greenhouse building some kind of walls down inside the ground with cement and filling it with insulation or something so that way I can grow in the soil during the winter months that way there is plenty of room for my gunnera manicata roots to grow to natural size they get massive and I’d like them to get as full size as possible aswell as all the fruits I grow I’d like to cut out the whole raised beds or pots for root restriction though in a way I’d be kind of like a reverse raised bed some set up to keep the soil warm in the ground kind of like building a basement but I have t heard of anyone else doing this idea of mine it sounds more complicated then it is because of how I worded it but do you have any ideas ?

Thanks for the question, Michael. You can find the plastic used in this installation here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouse-covers/6-mil-greenhouse-plastics/

Oh no, sorry to hear that! Safety should always be the first priority whenever constructing a high tunnel. The greenhouse plastic install step is definitely one of the more difficult due to the required ladder work.

Hi there, good question. In short, double layer systems should be air inflated which means the air pressure will keep the plastic layers tight even if they are not super tight at the time of installation. If you have an air inflated double layer system and the plastic is too tight you won't achieve much of a dead-air-space between layers at all; for this reason I wouldn't recommend trying to make both layers super tight at installation UNLESS you are installing two layers WITHOUT an inflation fan being used. With all this being said, here is my general order of operations for a two layer inflated system...hope it helps some: 1. Pick a calm day with no wind. 2. Know where you will install your inflation fan; typically these get put on the next hoop after your end-hoop about a foot or so above the hip-rail. Don't install the inflation fan yet, but just know where you will be putting it after both layers have been put on. 3. Install first (bottom) layer as shown in this video but only secure spring wire in a few spots - primarily at the peak of each end, near the hip rail on each end, and one piece of spring wire in the middle on each side. This will hold the first layer enough until your second layer gets installed. I don't like fully attaching the first layer with spring wire at this point because the same steps are duplicated after putting the second layer on - - for me, I like saving the wire and the time, and simply securing both layers with a single run of wire (as much as possible, at least) 4. After the first layer of plastic is resting in place, and is secured with a couple pieces of spring wire as referenced above, repeat the process for pulling the plastic with the second layer of greenhouse plastic. Put the plastic on the structure by pulling it from end to end over top the first layer of plastic. The process is the exact same as shown in this video pretty much; I would just recommend allowing the plastic to open up more as it is being pulled from end to end...this allows the plastic to make its way from end to end without falling off the structure to one side...in other words it hugs the peak of the structure as it makes its way from end to end. 5. Once the second layer is in place, adjust the second (top) layer of plastic so it is resting square on your structure - secure with spring wire at the peak over both your top and bottom layer of plastic. If you already have spring wire holding your first layer in place that is okay, your channel should be able to receive multiple layers of wire and plastic. 6. Proceed with securing both layers of plastic with spring wire in the same order of operations as outlined in THIS video...the only real recommendation I would have for this step is to NOT PULL THE SECOND / TOP LAYER SUPER TIGHT. If you do pull the top layer super tight you will not achieve any real inflation at all. It is a fine line to walk, but just make sure there are no wrinkles and that it is laying flat everywhere before securing. It is easier to pull more excess out of the plastic if you want than it will be to adjust and put more excess into the top cover. 7. When you like the way the second / top layer rests on your structure, fasten your plastic around the entire perimeter except for around the area you plan to install your inflation fan. Leave that area unattached for now (leaving about 6 or 8 ft. unsecured should be good for now). 8. Take your inflation fan inside your structure to the point of your structure where you will attach the fan to the hoop. Follow the instructions for attaching your inflation fan to your hoops, but essentially you will first install the provided bracket. 9. After the bracket is installed, use the provided nuts and bolts to attach the inflation fan to the bracket. 10. After the fan bracket is attached to the hoop AND the fan is attached to the bracket, use the hole in the bracket itself to mark where you will cut an "X" in your first layer of plastic. I like doing this from the exterior of the structure, by lifting up the second layer of plastic so I can access the first layer and make the cut. 11. When the cut has been made in the first layer of plastic I push the deflector for the inflation fan through the "X" and twist it onto the inflation fan bracket. For this step I am pushing the deflector from the exterior of the first layer of plastic onto the fan bracket which is on the interior of the first layer. 12. After the deflector has been installed, and the fan is in place I allow the second layer of plastic and first layer of plastic to lay flat against the side of the structure, and I now secure the rest of the spring wire into place to fully close off the two layers of plastic. 13. Plug in your inflation fan and you are good to go; you can adjust the damper on the inflation fan after your two layers of plastic have been inflated completely (if you want to adjust how much air is being pushed between the two layers of plastic) Good luck!

Tunnel Vision Hoops LL

@@tunnelvisionhoops Awesome reply - thank you re: the fan - would it not be simpler to install after you have your fist layer on - but before you do the second layer ?

That would work too. For me, if it is calm I am focusing on poly and nothing else...There have DEFINITELY been times when I put a first layer on and then did the roll-up sides, or worked on a door, or something else, only to lose my "window of calm" when it comes to wind. It shouldn't take long to install the fan though so I would say go for it if you want!

@@tunnelvisionhoops quick question - we have really cold winters here - is it worth trying a triple layer poly - to both add protection and additional insulation ?

Good question, Larry. It ultimately depends on where you purchased your channel + wire. The channel we sell can hold three layers of plastic AND three layers of wire, while some channels only have enough space for one layer of plastic and one layer of wire. The above, is why our end-wall plastic video suggests using snap clamps for holding the end-wall plastic in place until the top layer is installed; then one “run” of wire can be used to hold the end-wall plastic and the top cover plastic. Hope that helps, best of luck on your projects, and thanks for watching!

After installing the top cover I typically trim the plastic so 2" of excess remains on the outside of each end-hoop. If you are attaching plastic at ground level on each side I would leave a bit more because I would want to leave enough so that I could potentially install roll-up sides if I ever wanted to make the upgrade. Best of luck!

Thanks so much...ur video made the process so easy

Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching and the kind words!

Possibly, although I would always recommend getting another person to help. That said, I suppose it would be possible depending on how tall and long your structure is. the smaller it is the more practical this becomes. If you installed your plastic cover as shown in this video with one person it would require you to walk to the end of your structure with the roll of plastic so you could take tension off of the plastic. This would mean you would have to pull 4 ft. to 8 ft. of plastic off of the roll and set it on the peak of your structure. You would then have to walk to the other end where you are pulling the rope from, and pull that 4 ft. to 8 ft., and then you would have to walk down to the other end to repeat the process of lifting plastic onto the peak so it can move. If you attempt to pull the plastic along the peak of your structure without placing plastic on the peak it may result in too much pressure being put on the plastic as it is coming over the end hoop. This pressure could result in slight damage. If your hoop house isn't large, and you are by yourself it could be relatively painless, but if your structure is that small it may be more proficient to simply lay your plastic out along the side of your structure and pull it over one end at a time. Wish I could give more direction but there are so many variables! Good Luck!

Good question, check out our blog post on how to determine the size you need. There are two methods to use. Here is a link: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/bloghow-to-determine-size-of-greenhouse-plastic-you-need-two-methods/

That is a good question, and depending on who you ask the answer might change. While greenhouse plastic is best installed when it is warm outside, you can install greenhouse plastic in cold weather. It is just harder to work with, and won't be installed as tightly as plastic installed in warm weather. That said, you can usually pull excess greenhouse plastic out of the top cover once the weather warms up. While putting greenhouse plastic on the structure during cold weather isn't the most ideal (because you might end up adjusting it in the future), it would still provide you with a covered structure when you might need it most (in the cold / when approaching spring). For this reason, some people do install greenhouse plastic in cold weather, as it is worth the trade-off for them.

@@tunnelvisionhoops thank you for you reply. I am going to yry it and i hope it works. And thanks for the great video.

Good point. I did a small personal garden one 8’ x 16’ in late Feb. (WV) and then needed to stretch it tighter by late June. The plastic was a lot more pliable in warm weather and made a much better fit afterwards. Currently planning a bigger more permanent one for this yr and will wait for a warm sunny day in April. Going to store the plastic indoors right up to time to install as well.

I used Snap Clamps to temporarily hold the end-wall plastic in place, then I pulled the top cover in place and then installed the Spring Wire overtop both the top cover AND the end-wall cover with a single "run" of wire. You can see what I mean with the Snap Clamps by watching the end-wall plastic installation video we have here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtGDn8SJt6_Sp4U.html If you do not want to use the Snap Clamps shown in the video I link above, the Spring Wire Channel can hold two runs of wire - one used for your end-wall plastic AND then another run of wire used for your top cover plastic. Just know that if you were to ever install a second layer of top cover plastic to then inflate it - that the third run of wire would be more difficult to get in there. It still should fit, but it just gets a bit harder. Just food for thought. Thanks for watching!

Calvin, you can find EZ Snap Hooks here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/ez-snap-hooks-anti-billow-hardware-pack-of-25/ Also, we just published a video on how those get installed, which you can check out if you want more specificity on how to install anti-billow rope using EZ Snap Hooks... We no longer use the clips that were just made of wire - we found that the EZ Snap Hooks were much stronger and held up much better in wind. Thanks for watching!

The video was filmed at a few of our structures and the lengths are different. The main structures used in the filming were 30 ft. wide x 72 ft. long with 6 ft. sidewalls and 30 ft. wide x 96 ft. long with 6 ft. sidewalls. You can find more information on these systems on our website.

Steel price fluctuations impact current pricing for these structures at any given time. The best way to get an accurate and current quote is to email us through our websites contact page here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/contact-us/ Thanks for watching!

Some people do prefer it that way, and if that works for them that is great. However you can get it on is a win! lol! Thanks for watching

You are the second person to ask this question over the last few days so maybe a video outlining that process is in order! In the meantime though, here is a quick rundown on the process: 1. Install the first layer of plastic as shown in this video. If it is a calm day you can likely get away with only putting a little bit of wire into the Spring Wire channel to hold the first layer in place while you get the second layer over top of it. If it were me, I would put two feet of Spring Wire at the peak on each end, and a foot of Spring Wire at the hip rail of each corner. This will help hold the plastic square and will allow you to eventually install the second layer and the first layer with mostly one run of Spring Wire **If you aren't confident in how breezy it is outside you can just secure the entire top layer with a run of Spring Wire because the channel will hold two layers of plastic AND two runs of Spring Wire. 2. After your first layer is in place you can follow the same method for pulling the second layer, but as you pull the plastic over the first layer of plastic you might find that the plastic wants to fall off to the left or right of the peak. The way to combat this is to have the person lifting / taking tension off the plastic to spread the plastic a bit more so that more of the plastic is splayed out on the top of the structure, to the left and right of the peak. Having this additional weight to the left and right of the peak will help prevent the entire folded roll of plastic from starting to slide off to one side. If it does start to slide to one side, and your plastic has been splayed out a bit more, you can likely just change the angle that you are pulling the second layer to straighten it back up. 3. After your second layer has been pulled across the top of the structure you can secure the peak at each end with Spring Wire the same way as shown in this video, and then drop the folds on each half of the structure. Secure at each of the corners at the hip rail with a one or two foot piece of Spring Wire, and confirm your top cover is square / their aren't obvious wrinkles throughout. If you are squared up, you can now secure in the same order of operations as if there were one layer of plastic (over the end-hoop and then the hip rail). 4. Don't pull tightly on the second or first layer of greenhouse plastic when it has a double layer inflation system set-up. If you pull too tightly you will find that minimal air inflation occurs, and this can reduce the insulation properties of a second layer, but it can also unnecessarily stress your blower fan motor. Instead, simply make sure each of your layers are resting square to your structure, and without wrinkles or obvious sags between hoops. If both pieces are square and the plastic pieces don't appear wrinkled or too loose, pin the plastic in with Spring Wire. Install the blower fan at a corner of the structure before sealing that specific corner with Spring Wire. **Just as I have mentioned I wouldn't pull the second layer of plastic too tightly, I also wouldn't attempt to push a ton of excess plastic inward to make the top cover super loose. This would likely just cause uneven inflation, or an odd wrinkle. I know it might be hard to follow some of this since it is all written guidance, but until we have a video up I hope this can provide some additional help. If you want to check out our blower fans you can find them at our site here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouse-inflation-blower-fans-with-mount-brackets-and-cords/

Thanks for the comment!

Good questions, we have been working on a video for this very question, but have been a bit too busy to complete it. Hopefully soon! Anyways, in the meantime here are my suggestions for two layers: 1. Pick a calm day with no wind. 2. Know where you will install your inflation fan; typically these get put on the next hoop after your end-hoop about a foot or so above the hip-rail. Don't install the inflation fan yet, but just know where you will be putting it after both layers have been put on. 3. Install first (bottom) layer as shown in this video but only secure spring wire in a few spots - primarily at the peak of each end, near the hip rail on each end, and one piece of spring wire in the middle on each side. This will hold the first layer enough until your second layer gets installed. I don't like fully attaching the first layer with spring wire at this point because the same steps are duplicated after putting the second layer on - - for me, I like saving the wire and the time, and simply securing both layers with a single run of wire (as much as possible, at least) 4. After the first layer of plastic is resting in place, and is secured with a couple pieces of spring wire as referenced above, repeat the process for pulling the plastic with the second layer of greenhouse plastic. Put the plastic on the structure by pulling it from end to end over top the first layer of plastic. The process is the exact same as shown in this video pretty much; I would just recommend allowing the plastic to open up more as it is being pulled from end to end...this allows the plastic to make its way from end to end without falling off the structure to one side...in other words it hugs the peak of the structure as it makes its way from end to end. 5. Once the second layer is in place, adjust the second (top) layer of plastic so it is resting square on your structure - secure with spring wire at the peak over both your top and bottom layer of plastic. If you already have spring wire holding your first layer in place that is okay, your channel should be able to receive multiple layers of wire and plastic. 6. Proceed with securing both layers of plastic with spring wire in the same order of operations as outlined in THIS video...the only real recommendation I would have for this step is to NOT PULL THE SECOND / TOP LAYER SUPER TIGHT. If you do pull the top layer super tight you will not achieve any real inflation at all. It is a fine line to walk, but just make sure there are no wrinkles and that it is laying flat everywhere before securing. It is easier to pull more excess out of the plastic if you want than it will be to adjust and put more excess into the top cover. 7. When you like the way the second / top layer rests on your structure, fasten your plastic around the entire perimeter except for around the area you plan to install your inflation fan. Leave that area unattached for now (leaving about 6 or 8 ft. unsecured should be good for now). 8. Take your inflation fan inside your structure to the point of your structure where you will attach the fan to the hoop. Follow the instructions for attaching your inflation fan to your hoops, but essentially you will first install the provided bracket. 9. After the bracket is installed, use the provided nuts and bolts to attach the inflation fan to the bracket. 10. After the fan bracket is attached to the hoop AND the fan is attached to the bracket, use the hole in the bracket itself to mark where you will cut an "X" in your first layer of plastic. I like doing this from the exterior of the structure, by lifting up the second layer of plastic so I can access the first layer and make the cut. 11. When the cut has been made in the first layer of plastic I push the deflector for the inflation fan through the "X" and twist it onto the inflation fan bracket. For this step I am pushing the deflector from the exterior of the first layer of plastic onto the fan bracket which is on the interior of the first layer. 12. After the deflector has been installed, and the fan is in place I allow the second layer of plastic and first layer of plastic to lay flat against the side of the structure, and I now secure the rest of the spring wire into place to fully close off the two layers of plastic. 13. Plug in your inflation fan and you are good to go; you can adjust the damper on the inflation fan after your two layers of plastic have been inflated completely (if you want to adjust how much air is being pushed between the two layers of plastic) Good luck!

@@tunnelvisionhoops Cant wait to see the video for this

I like your perception of fun! Thanks for watching!

Wish we could ship you some, but we've never shipped to the Philippines! Best of luck!

Very cool, and that makes sense, as far as a way to seal the top covers together. Happy to hear its been working out!

Unfortunately, we aren’t set up to ship to the Philippines, but maybe one day. Anyone in the US can buy the material at www.tunnelvisionhoops(dot)com.

Kamusta! I used to live in the Philippines when I was in the military. I absolutely love your country and especially the people there.

The plastic is a 4 year 6 mil greenhouse plastic. We sell these covers (and other similar covers) on our website.

One of the structures featured in the video is 30 ft. wide x 72 ft. long with 4 ft. sidewalls, and the other is 30 ft. wide x 100 ft. long with 6 ft. sidewalls

Thanks for the comment! We don't currently ship to India. Thanks for asking though!

@@tunnelvisionhoops OK.

Hi there. Nope, that is not something I could provide information on. We sell metal framed structures as well, so PVC tubing is outside my knowledge base. Thanks for watching though.

@@tunnelvisionhoops How can I get metal frame structure in INDIA.

Hi there, I am not actually sure how that would be done. Is there a steel fencing industry where you are located in India? Perhaps reach out to a chain link fence supplier to see if they would have any leads? You could source steel, and bend the steel yourself, if you can source it. Just trying to think of some ways you could source what you are looking for. Thanks for watching our videos though!

Oh my gosh, that does sound like a problem! Good luck!!

We like using double channel for a few major reasons. First, the double channel is rigid enough where you can install it directly to the bows of your structure without the need for lumber (We have a video of this here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f76qjdOLzMynmmw.html). If you were wanting to install single channel on the hip-rail you could, but single channel is less rigid and more difficult to attach to bows on its own, which means you would want to install lumber as your hip-rail before installing single channel to the lumber. For us, the rigid double channel makes more sense than having to install lumber and THEN installing single channel on the lumber. Second, having double channel on the hip rail provides some flexibility in how you install coverings and replace coverings. For example, if one of your roll-up sides got damaged you could relatively easily remove the wire from the bottom run of double channel, cut the roll-up side plastic away from the structure, and then re-attach a brand new piece of greenhouse plastic for your roll-up side. I recently did this exact process, and was happy I didn't have to turn off the inflation motor on the two layers of inflated greenhouse plastic, and then detach the top covers through the full length of the structure, just to repair a side. I don't like exposing the top covers to potential wind gusts if I can avoid it. Third, the double channel does not rot or rust. Where lumber hip-rails often begin to rot over time due to interior condensation and high humidity levels, the double channel will not. Because it is aluminum it also doesn't rust. For these reasons, the potential time spent on maintenance and future repairs is reduced. Hopefully this helped answer your question. Thanks for watching our videos!

Tunnel Vision Hoops LLC thanks for the detailed reply.

I’ve been doing this for over a decade, and it feels that way every time I pull poly. There’s a lot of “waiting for the right moment” / being patient when I’m getting ready to install.

@@tunnelvisionhoops During the last 6 years I've built four 50 x 20 hoop houses, entirely alone! - pulled poly as well. This winter I'll build another and I will hire a helper. I just turned 69 and refuse to work alone!

Wow! Sounds like you've been keeping busy. Having even just one helper makes pulling poly WAY easier. Have a great weekend!

Well... that would sure be a site to watch. You'd have to really hope the wind doesn't pick up!

Thanks for the suggestion. We have a few other videos that relate directly to installing the channel and spring wire. I will link to those in further down in this response, but in short, the Spring Wire Channel is installed directly to the top of each end hoop, and double channel hip-rail is installed on each side (if you are going to have a roll-up sides). If you aren't going to have roll-up sides you can install single channel the full length of your structure on each side, and at ground level (best if attaching the single channel to lumber or steel baseboards). Check out the below for more information on the channel and wire process: Here is a video on how to install single channel spring wire: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdlod9Z9sJ-ZdHU.html Here is a video on how to install the double channel hip-rail: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f76qjdOLzMynmmw.html Here is a link to where you can find single channel: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/poly-lock-channel-and-spring-wire-greenhouse-film-fastening-system-6-ft/ Here is a link to where you can find double channel: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/double-channel-poly-lock-and-spring-wire-greenhouse-plastic-attachment-6-ft/ Hope this helps!