Great instruction! I'm redoing my knee wall rail system and this is super helpful. Thanks!

Thanks for taking the time to post this video.

Love the retrofit vacuum assistant!

THANK YOU!!! Ive been trying to figure this out for a long time. Much appreciated.

When I’m at this stage I make a story pole cut to length from newel post to top of cap. I lay out my 5 1/2” spacing on this stick and use it to transfer my marks on both the cap and the underside of the rail. Balusters are perfectly plumb every time. Sometimes I’ll temp the rail in place and lay it on the stair nosings to drill the holes before permanently securing it in place.

This video was awesome, thanks so much for posting and taking the time to show cutting with different tools. I hate videos where they use all these fancy tools the average person doesn't have

Nice job thanks for info......

Thank you so much for this

Thank you..so helpful.

A trick I learned to eliminate the use of epoxy, and keep balusters from rattling, is to drill the pocket hole slightly off plumb. Once the baluster is inserted it takes a slight amount of pressure to bring it over into alignment with the bottom hole and, when dropped in, the baluster is held in tension against the sides of both top and bottom holes. Very simple and effective without the need for adhesives or fasteners.

Try the Iron Pro brackets.... much easier and looks great !

I use a drop plumb. To center and mark the top as it lines up with the bottom. Gravity helps

What kind of epoxy should you use?

What size spade bit would you use for 3/4 inch spindle. 3/4 would be really tight but hard to get into place . 13/16?

In a residential setting, where a hand rail is not necessary, do you need the guard rail to be at a handrail height ( Florida 38 inches)?

Which drill was used for drilling the holes going up?

What kind of epoxy do you use?

Did you have to cut the ballast Shoes?

This is helpful... but my project has that balusters going all the way to the ceiling, and we're doing wood 2x2s. Do I just use wooden peg inserts and wood glue instead of epoxy?

What is that epoxy gun brand? I do need 1 of those...

What molding is used for capping the wall where the ballusters go into

I think this is a great video. Thank you for sharing. Just one comment/question: if you need 11 balusters then you need 12 spaces, right? After measuring the length of the shoeboard shouldn't you divide that length by 12 instead of 11?

If the balusters are say 10mm, would you typically use a 10mm drill bit or one that's slightly larger?

By “most ppl won’t have these tools” he meant me 🤚 lol but very good video

Is that black epoxy or it's just the color of the plastic tip?

What brand/model is that epoxy gun?

What kind of laser level are you using

Great 👍🏻.. whats model for Dewalt laser level?

what size holes for top and bottom on a fresh install

What kind of laser level is that?

The waistcoat and the hand rail are different angles

It was a little confusing in the measurement. You said something about 4 1/4” distance and then measured 5 inches per baluster?

Why not cut out all the laser and level use for spacing and just measure from wall down or post up, if both are plumb the distance on both rakes would be the same.

If you did 5.5 inches centre to centre with a .5 inch baluster, you would have 5 inches of space in between the balusters and therefore, not to code. At .22 on the video you said to stay at 4.5 inches on centre. Then you measured the rake at 64 inches and divided by 11 and came up with 5.5 and then measured that with your compass. So. I'm a bit confused. I know this video is old but were you saying 5.5 and actually measuring 4.5? Thanks for this video as it's hard to find videos for finding these measurements without having a main frame computer to figure out the math! As well, you measured from the top of the hole in the handrail and to the top of the stringer and came up with 31.5 inches. But don't you have to add whatever amount the baluster goes into the handrail and into the stringer?

You can't push a tape into an acute angle like that and measure accurately as the hook prevents the tape from reaching the intersection. Also, there's no way that handrail is right - at 5:00 you can clearly see it's not at the same pitch as the panelling behind - I noted other measuring mistakes in the video prior to this one and I'll bet that's what caused this error.

What make is the drill with the built in level?

Something don't seem right. Visually the rail doesn't line up with the moulding on the wall.

In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.

Plumb*

Put your rail on top of knee wall and just transfer the marks that’s what I do

u stole the idea of my name

ur mean

I'm actually really surprised you don't wear safety glasses at all times. Shouldn't you be displaying better safety measures? It's a good video but sometimes you wear the glasses and sometimes you don't