You can definitely do it yourself! Just follow these instructions.

Here in the PNW we like 1/4"-10 crushed open.

There's not too many homes with basements here in the PNW due to the large amount of rainfall we receive, some issues with radon intrusion, and the fact that our frost line is only 24", so we can't speak to this exactly. However, I do know that sometimes people in other areas daylight a drain for the sump to prevent water build up. You can also waterproof your foundation wall where the permeable pavers will be.

Perma Edge recommends compacting the project before the cement sets up, so you do it right after it’s installed.

You should never fill in a hole with sand or soil and then pave over the top. As you state, it will settle, and sometimes it can do it quite dramatically. The hole needs to be filled with compacted gravel to prevent settling. Since your hole is so deep, you can start with a mix of larger materials like we did here, compacting it as you go either with a jumping jack or plate compactor. When you get near the top (somewhere in the last 15"), switch to compacted 1", 3/4", or 5/8" open gravel (depending on what you can get), stopping at 3" from the final grade to allow for your pavers.

@@WesternInterlock would you suggest using 2 inch clean crush for the compacted gravel? And should I be compacting it every 3 inches since it’s so deep or can I get away with 6 inches until I get closer to the top?

The 2" clean crush will work just fine. We used 3", but it's a bit hard to work with without equipment. How much to compact at once depends on the compactor that you use. Every 3 inches will be safe.

@@WesternInterlock thank you, One last question, does it matter if the gravel is perfectly level when I begin to fill in the hole?

It only really matters near the top. However, it will be less work overall if you try to eyeball it level as you fill. The flatter the base, the flatter the patio. Any humps or holes in the base will most likely telegraph up through to the pavers.

We agree!

Permeable pavers would actually be a perfect solution for something like that. I'm not sure where you live, but if you're worried about high quantities of water, it would be best tie the sump that goes underneath the permeable pavers into some sort of drain line. I would also dig it out a bunch and build a dry well underneath the permeable pavers.

@@WesternInterlock Do you have a picture or video of what this looks like. I live in South Holland, Il.

You can see several drawings of different styles on this page: icpi.org/permeable-interlocking-concrete-pavement-drawings Basically just expand the bottom layer of rock to handle the anticipated water. We're in Oregon, so I can't give you site or regional specifics.

@@WesternInterlock What is the curb or the big block in the pictures?

It's for commercial parking lot applications. We recommend using Perma Edge.

Yes! It will totally work for a driveway. In fact in this video, this was a driveway extension. Just be sure that you use appropriate compaction and geotextiles.

Steps themselves can not be permeable, but the landing at the bottom could contain some permeable pavers.