The panels are engineered to be fastened and supported at the mounting hole locations. You are not using the holes, but using them as a guide to determine where to clamp. Doesn't need to be exact. But these instructions prevent users from choosing bad mounting patterns.

Close ups would be appreciated...

Suppose you're putting the long side of the panels parallel to.the ground. Can you run the rails along the roof and mount at the short side of the panels?

ditto

Yeah looks like he was probably freezing his arse off. Did well despite it!

No problem! Anytime. You can always visit our website at www.wholesalesolar.com to learn more about DIY solar and contact our techs.

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gOD bless for sure, without our savior then this world would never be possible.

That exciting news Matt! Looking forward to seeing your installation video/photos :) - Here are some other customer installations: www.wholesalesolar.com/customer-showcase

Buy lots of molybdenum magnets!

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Hi David! If rafter access isn't possible, you can use this simple rafter finder tool: www.chiptoolz.com/

Thanks for checking it out :)

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Get curved arrays

Hope things are going well with your new career.

Hi J! Standing seam metal roofs are really easy because the clamp just bolts onto the metal seam, no drilling through the roof. For other types of metal rooftops you typically end up drilling into the sheet metal or the structure underneath there are specific clamps for the different types of roof profiles. here's the clamp product for the standing seam: www.wholesalesolar.com/6990065/sunmodo/racking/sunmodo-1-ez-standing-seam-clamp and here is bolt for most flat mounting surfaces: www.wholesalesolar.com/6999503/snapnrack/racking/snapnrack-metal-roof-base-assembly. Our senior techs can help you further at www.wholesalesolar.com

@@unboundsolar Links don't work, at least not from Thailand.

I got a metal roof too on my mobile home.

@@FoosResearch works for me. Philippines.

solar panel

You're welcome Pat!

Lmao y’all slow. Just use a hammer

Thanks for your comment. No need to worry about drilling in your roof. I know it seems scary--But if done properly, you won't introduce any leaks. Using a Caulk gun with Roof Sealant will provide plenty of protection. As for a metal roof, you might be using clamps depending on the metal roof type. We have several options that you can review here: www.wholesalesolar.com/shop/racking#s-5

@@unboundsolar Thanks for your reply. That's cool. I would like you please check this cuttingedgepower.com/products/magnetic-solar-panel-mount-bracket-700-lbs-holding-force-mounting-brackets I love it when people have metal roof.

That would be too easy then :) . Jeremy likes the challenge.

@@unboundsolar No, just no. People do not like freezing on camera. They do not do a good job when they are freezing

I think the lights behind the camera keep him pretty warm

There are several components to this topic . One plan I discovered which successfully combines these is the Ewans energy roadmap (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the most helpful resource i've heard of. Check out the amazing info .

Nice catch

you have more important things to worry about instead of solar energy if you can only afford a mobile home

Hi BrownPower 2010. Thanks for your questions! Flash feet are the part that attaches the racking to a shingle rooftop. They are typically installed 48" apart although this can vary depending on wind/snow loading and the rail you use (XR10, XR100, XR1000.) We help provide the Ironridge project report that covers this, our customers can also run their own project report in the Ironridge design assistant. You can find their design tools in the main menu on their website: www.ironridge.com. The required distance from the edge of the roof to array is called the set back requirement, it's typically 3 feet but varies depending on the area. It's best to check w/ the local building dept. or fire dept. to see what they require.

If you search for "Ironridge Solar Mounting System" on the internet you can find some technical specifications and wind charts on their website for their different product lines.

I wanted to let you know that stud finders often struggle with the additional layer of shingles on the roof. A more reliable method might be to gently tap on the roof with a hammer and listen for the solid sound that indicates a rafter underneath. Once you've located two rafters, you can generally use the same spacing to find the others across the rest of the roof.

Hey Gary! Yes, we carry mount hardware for any roof. You can call us for more information @ 1-800-472-1142 ( M-F 8-5 PST)- Or go to our mounting hardware page here: www.wholesalesolar.com/shop/racking

First and foremost, this is not necessarily indicative of problem and you should not expect to see max output at all times. There can be a variety of reasons a PV systems array doesn’t produce what the array is rated for, at any given time. For instance, the system design itself will affect behavior. Most modern systems use multi-stage smart PV chargers. These chargers will throttle back and provide less and less current as the batteries near a full state of charge. Battery chemistry can further drive this behavior. This is wholly to the benefit of the batteries and helps extend their service life. Other factors such as weather, shading from trees and other obstructions, even mounting angle of the panels will drastically affect their output. Age of the modules should also be considered, as they lose roughly 0.5% of their output every year.

Your concern is valid Yadir. This is one of the reasons we recommend a socket wrench over a drill - for the additional control. It should be firm but not too tight.

Connect the panel(s) to a solar inverter, which converts DC to AC.

Hi Greg! Thanks for responding. We recorded this during the winter at our warehouse in Mount Shasta California. Get's pretty cold up here during winter.

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Id like to know myself. Good question.