Thank you. Happy to help.

Thank you.

Ya how can I do this without getting on top

Oh bummer. Thanks for the comment. It’s good to keep educated on what works best. Although, hail can destroy just about anything if it gets thick and heavy enough.

Do you know how big the hell pieces got?

Would closure strip have helped with that?

@@nledelnr not according to Suntuff

did you caulk your overlap? My instructions (TufTek) tell me to, but it doesn't seem to create a good seal

@@wilhallman2890 I wish I had. The suntuff pdf I used did not instruct to caulk all seams. I would use butly tape if I could do it all over again. That works great.

How is it in winter?

Mike!!!

What’s your number Mike?

@@JedsGarage Be happy to give it to you. Got an email address?

How we going to get connected?

Solar grey.

Thank you. I used 2X2.

It’s holding up really good. Still no closure strips but use tape along all the seams and overlap by two rows instead of one. Joist hangers weee for 2 by 4s.

The perimeter is 6x2. The inside are all 2x4. 14 feet wide. It’s been 3 years and it’s held up great. No sag. Thank you for the remarks.

​@JedsGarage do you get snow where you live?

This is a good thought you have. There has been a lot of debate about this. The general consensus is to put it on the peak because it allows the material to expand and contract and also allows for the run off and debris to not get hindered by the screws.

Good question. It’s a small roof below a larger one. I left just barely enough room to re shingle when the time comes.

No. But, it’s had a few feet at a time with no problem.

Same question!

2 by 6 for perimeter. 2 by 4 for inside of the structure. All vertical posts are redwood 4 by 4

It has a slight kerf. Maybe a 2 foot slope in the 14 foot span total. Yes, 2 by 4 joist hangers.

I think it looks better over it. More of a finished look.

Incline recommended. You want the water to not pool together on flat surfaces. Rubber is just under .5” wide.

Good question. I didn’t have to get on top. I started in the top left corner then went to the right reaching across through spaces in the pergola.

There are special screws with rubber washers connected to them. The rubber washers keep the rain out. Look for them in the video. You can find them at most big box stores.

@@JedsGarage still, wouldn't it have made a tighter seal to put those screws with the rubber washers in the valleys???

I made it pretty close but it’s not attached to the house only to the ground. Unfortunately, It’s probably too close to the roof but I couldn’t find beams any longer. We will need to put new roofing on that small section of roof (eventually) and I only have a few inches to work with.

www.google.com/search?q=psp+suntuf+installation+guide&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS863US863&oq=psp+suntuf&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i22i30.6407j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_gFRSYeGBIsqK-wTf6rbQDA15

Strips can be used but are optional. Some use them to keep debris from going underneath the panels. The most important thing is that your panels are not held down so tight that they can't expand and contract.

Thanks Jed!

Good question. I would use silicone instead of caulk. It’s more waterproof. But, this is not needed if you overlap them. If I could do it over, I would Overlap it twice instead of overlapping it just once like I did in the video. Also, the greater the pitch, the less you worry about water pooling. If you do silicone, I would run a bead then overlap like you are already doing.

@@JedsGarage thanks, I am actually using silicone, not sure why I called it caulk haha

Home Depot

Yes. Probably more sturdy too.

More leaking if screwed in the valleys, Debris gets stuck and also the corrugated material won’t be able to expand and contract if screwed down tight to the wood in the valleys.

@@JedsGarage Thank you so very much! Makes sense and really appreciate it!

I wish I did two overlaps because my roof doesn’t have a steep slope. Do two overlaps for sure or do butyl tape along the seam if you only do one overlap.

@@JedsGarage The butyl tape would be visible. I'll do the double overlap. Thanks

@@charleschi843 The tape would be over the rafter and not visible from below. Or use silicone

@@JedsGarage Update. I did the single overlap as mathematically it added up to need one less panel. During heavy rain water does reflect up and under the single over lap and now we have drips on our "dry deck". Ooops.

It’s been a few years. No problems.

@@JedsGarage Thanks!

This is good to know. I thought if I overlapped it more it would have leaked less. To be honest, the only places where there are no leaks is where I applied Butyl Tape. I say use butyl tape at ALL seams no matter the slope or circumstance.

@@JedsGarage thanks for the tip! I plan on doing that as well as sealing the top with a sealant and mesh tape

Yes, overlap by two and also install a strip of tape down each seam. Pitch is a 3/12.

Good question. It snows lots here. It’s held up really well over the years. About 14’ feet across.

@@JedsGarage I think the key is your perlins are more continuous rails without notching which helps with rigidity. Also the number of rafters to spread the load.

Palram recommends the board be spread across 3 rafters

So far it’s held up really well through hot suns, windy days, and lots of snow. Although, it’s only been a year.

10-12

That’s a good question. It will be tricky but I barely have enough room to get it done when the time comes. The nice thing is that it covers a small isolated section of the roof and the panels keep it protected from the wear and tear of the sun and rain.

I agree about the washers.

Well, we got record snow in Utah this year and my panels did ok. Also, the purlins give it the support it need as long as they are not installed too far apart. I installed mine so the purlins were only big enough for me to fit up through when i installed the panels.

@@JedsGarage Thank you to responding! So you probably spaced then at 16" or less apart. And the purlins rest on 2"x 6" or 2"x8" joists?

From the guide and what others are doing.

Many of the manufacturers globally recommend drilling oversized holes.

No. But it does leak where I didn’t overlap it enough cuz the slope isn’t super steep.

Butyl tape. Use it everywhere. It makes a huge difference in waterproofing.

Good question. You need rafters for support because they are installed at a 90 degree and the Perlins (on top of rafters) because because they are installed flat and perpendicular to the roofing material. I suppose you could just install them on the rafters but the roof would not be as sturdy and you wouldn’t be able to hide the seam. Perlins give you more area to work with.

My rafter’s go horizontally and are spaced about 2 ft apart. I definitely could hide the horizontal seam and tape. Also if you recommend overlapping by 2 valley’s vertically would you still use the sealer tape?

Overhang the plastic 2-3 inches from the ledge.

The material expands and contracts and may crack if it’s right tight up to the screw.

Unless you buy screws which have a provision to enlarge their own holes, yes.

True about the butyl tape. I had leaking issues because my roof slope was not steep enough. I only have a couple leaks coming from seams. But seriously, I did get the instruction from a professional roofing video on this type of material on not using the closure strips. If you have good washers and you don’t fasten down too much it seals it really well. Also, it’s been a few years and it’s held up really well. But, Use Butyl Tape Along the seams everybody!

@@JedsGarage Considering the amount of labor and cost to build the roof, I don't see the point saving $30 not using closure strips. Makes the connections that much more solid.

@@TurboMountTVI agree 100%, that whole pergola looks like a disjointed clusterfuck.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pruah8yVrpu9iGQ.html

Closure strips not needed. Mine has been installed for a few years now and zero problems with no closure strips. The material needs to expand and contract. Check out the video link. But, use butyl tape along all seams and double overlap the panels not just one overlap.

@@JedsGarage Thanks, "not needed" is one thing, but you are advising omitting them, because otherwise no expansion can take place. I need them because I'm installing over full decking, not on a pergola. I don't have the giant rubber mushroom caps on my screws to allow the large holes to be drilled. Thanks for the video link. The one below mentions 1/4" predrilling, which is more reasonable. I plant to tape the overlap between panels with butyl tape.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a9yXZNed25e3qoE.html

Thx for the comment but screws should sit on the top NOT the valley because if they go in the valley they will act like dams to water are are also more susceptible to leaking through.

@@JedsGarage Hello! In Sweden, all plastic roofs are screwed into the valley according to the manufacturer's instructions. The sealing washer prevents leakage. The water has space to flow at the sides of the screw. When you screw in the top, there is nothing to resist and the plastic can be easily deformed and then the washer does not seal. I have installed hundreds of plastic roofs and have never had any leaks. Important to remember to always screw perpendicular to the roof

Yeah, that’s not true.

Correct. My apologies. Still working out some kinks. But, I hope you got your new panels installed and looking good.