You have inspired me to do install this system in my 70 year old home. Aweseom video.

Your videos are easy to follow and very informative. We just installed a Universal 4-5 ton Mr. Cool in a remodel for my son and daughter in law. Big help! Thanks.

Omg, best start to finish video on MrCool . Had trouble understanding the wiring. Now i know.

You did a really good job on this sir! Thanks for sharing! You sound like Mike Festiva talking. He's a youtuber who built his on Mule to run around the property, articulating dump truck to move dirt on his property and a saw mill to saw wood from the property. And on and on it goes!

What a great channel, I usually don't leave any comments but man you did a great job and excellent explanation thank you

Wow, what a great video you just dropped. I'm sure it will help a lot of people in the months to come. I would suggest that you seal the ductwork you fabricated. Something like ShurTape 686 metal on metal tape would work. This will do a great job of closing all those openings and will provide cooler air to the home and you won't be sucking warm air into the conditioned supplies. I would have added a condensate float switch as an emergency cut-off when the condensate line stops flowing. You should have also added a high-quality surge protector to the outside unit. These units are run on sophisticated computer control boards and are sensitive to electrical fluctuations. I've been a fan of the Ditek Kool Gaurd 2, but most other brands will help protect your investment.

Great video! I've watched a few DIY HVAC videos in preparation for tackling my own job. One thing you should do once the box/ducting is all done is use the sealing paste/glue on the inside of the joints and then tape the outer joints where you can't put paste.

This guy make professional hvac guys look bad😊

15 years ago our hvac company built custom boxes out of plywood for the return air to enter and for the air handler to set on. Maybe cheaper than buying a kit online. Also don’t forget a good sheet metal contractor will make the box for you as well.

Doing an install of the 4 ton version of this system. One thing I learned is finding terminal rings that fit the narrow tight terminals is tricky. What I eventually figured out is I could use a hammer and a concrete slap to make them oval terminals which fit!

Great video. Thanks for the additional detail to the original vids. So much information!

Went with the MrCool Signature series when my A/C system failed 4 years ago. Been incredibly easy to work with, great quality, was significantly better than the ole Trane setup we pulled out beforehand(Albeit, can't say it's apples to apples because the old system was ancient, plus the ductwork was very undersized. I replaced everything to be new - ductwork, air handler, condenser) I'd say it's definitely harder than using MrCool's precharged linesets because I had to do all that part w/ the gauges, scales etc - significantly more costly, but it all still worked out and works great

Thank you very much for the video. We were able to successfully install our Mr Cooler Heat Pump. Great Job, keep it up.

You can also put some refrigeration technology nylog on the flares for extra protection against leaks.

That is one amazing project. Well done 👏👏👏👏

Your best video yet,and the organization of your affiliate links is genius.

I do hvac and I must say GREAT JOB !

thanks. excellent video. you made me want to install one!

Awesomeness! Best video for the universal I’ve found.

Thank you 🙏 for your sharing video. It help me to DIY. Great jobs👍

I've used the 3M silver tape (3350) to get a tight seal on my duct work. No air leaks nor whistling.

Great video. For 240 circuits using romex you should be using the red sheathing version which provides black and red conductor insulation.

thanks for the info it was badly needed .

thank you a thorough video

Great video, I'm considering the hyper heat unit to replace my old system in my mobile home at the lake home. And would have to convert to down draft and as a direct replacement here in S.E. Missouri. I'm on the fence with a 24k or 36k unit. 960 sqft . But with old windows and doors puts it at 3tn.

Absolutely incredible!

Nice job. Looking forward to seeing how well it heats without heat strips.

That is pretty cool 😎

This is epic. Good job.

ACIQ also has the very same system with hyper heat and the same size. I just finished installing mine and shes a beauty very quiet and cools plenty and heats very quickly.

thank you!!

Hi Scott, I really impressed with your video. I learned a lot from your video today. Keep up your great work, Scott. You are helping a lot of people like me. I am about to move in a house that has windows AC unit everywhere and it's time to change it out with Central Heat pump unit with MrCool. Do you have the link for the filter rack in your video? I will need 5 ton system, how am I going to make sure that all accessories I buy match with 5 ton system? Thanks Scott.

Loved it!

I replaced the original 20+ year old central A/C system at my mother's house with a Mr. Cool Universal series unit. The entire experience was great, however, I did opt to cut the precharged lines in order to have a cleaner installation without unsightly loops of excess line. Again, every installation of this type is custom. This was just my preference. A fast and affordable service call to vacuum and recharge the lines was all that was necessary. (Note that I had this done *before* opening the valves on both units. That way only a minimal amount of refrigerant was needed.) I mounted the exterior unit on the wall, rather than the ground in order to keep the unit cleaner. The only criticism I have for the Mr. Cool units is the line set insulation. This quickly broke down in Central Florida. All-in, the replacement cost me ~$3,500 (less than half of the lowest bid from an HVAC contractor). The unit is whisper quiet and consumes half of the electricity of the original unit. Lastly, this unit has no problems both cooling and heating my mom's home (no resistance heating strips installed).

Doesn’t get more gangster than that!

You have had it heating for a bit now, how is it holding up? What are the outside temps in your area and does the heating keep up or is it trying hard and working harder to keep it warm?

Okay, so I live in an area that 3-4 weeks a year the LOWs can be between -20F to 10F, which for these kind of heat pumps is not a high efficiency range, and so other brands I know of have supplemental coils that HEAT when the heat pump itself can't do so, do you know if Mr. Cool has equipment with this functionality? Loved your work here, right tools, and a mindset to just take it one step at a time, and make it look almost like a pro did it.

Awesome video Scott, as always. Getting ready to take on the same DIY project and everything was super informative. Only thing I really wish you did was actually go for Nest etc thermostat since the are generally tricky with these "communicating" units. Any chance you can do a separate video to try and upgrade the thermostat as you kept that 18 gauge wire for later "upgrade" project anyway?

It's probably already noted, but I'm not going to read 200 comments to see. Shouldn't you use a 2nd tool when torqueing down the cutoff valves at 49 minutes? You were putting some pretty good twist on those fittings.

Awesome video Scott! I just purchased the 3 ton unit that is not the hyper-heat model but should do us a good job in North Carolina. Curious to know how the unit worked for you over the winter? I looked for your video on this topic but couldn't find it. Thank you!!!!

How do you connect the condensat drain? Does that plug screw out and you need a 3/4" male pvc threaded connector?

Great video, the only issue I see was that the unit doesn’t have a heat strip. You need it as a back up just in case the unit fails with a leak or blockage. Second what will happen when the unit is in defrost mode with no heat strip?

Did you make a video removing the oil furnace? I would love to see that process!

Where did you purchase that 90-degree filter rack? Thanks for this install video. Great Job!👍

is there any point using the fused disconnect box indoor? mine has but it melted so i need to swap it with a new one and am not sure if the fused one is needed

Very entertaining

im using 14/3 and 6/3 if your platform for handler is metal you must ground. read manual not every install is the same. good video. his neutral is unsheathed witch seems sketchy but im not an electrician.

In Florida, replacing an air conditioning system requires a permit...even for DIY installations! I didn't realize this, but found it out the hard way when my mother sold her home. We had to obtain an "after-the-fact" permit for the sale to close. The same was true for a water heater replacement. I served on submarines as a nuclear engineer and chemist, so my work easily passed, but the permitting requirement came as quite a shock as I've done similar work in several states over the years...all without reqiring permits.

OK, so enjoyed your video on Mr Cool, sounds like a great system and easy to install. I was trying to get information from "Mr Cool" whether they have a "heating element" that uses Natural Gas?? And I do not see any 800 number or contact number on their website?? Thank You and for the videos. Raul , Phoenix metro

You'll want to use foil tape and/or mastic to seal the edges of your new duct work. You don't want air leakage on the supply or return through the gaps and cracks or in the ductwork in general. (Even perfectly cut and installed ductwork by default leaks air.)

Do those quick connect adapters come with the no-vac linesets or did you have to get them separately somewhere?

Does the airway of the central heat/cooling needs to be insulated? I had someone came and checked my house and he didn’t mention anything about that and and mine are not insulated with the fiberglass

Best video for the Mr. Cool heat pump. I just purchased a Mr. Cool Universal 4-5 ton heat pump. You spoke of using a Mr. Cool thermostat. Do you have a model # for this? I looked everywhere to buy the Mr. Cool thermostat and even Mr. Cool didn't show it.

Around 4:30 minute mark, you mentioned that switching from a right to a left horizontal setup would require reconfiguring the evaporator coil...i have purchase one, and don't find it obvious how this is done...is your thinking to leave the EC in place, and only reconfigure the top drain pan to the bottom (somehow), or actually removing the who coil, flipping it, and exiting the drain lines on the opposite side of where the access panel/lcd screen exists (and obviously then drilling new holes into the back-side sheet metal)? I couldn't come across another video on this, so if you did, could you share? thank you, and very informative video (and subscription).

On the return plenum, your cross breaks (creases) should be installed toward towards the center of your plenum

I still have to watch the whole thing but can we apply duct mastic to all seams and joints to try to increase air tightness in an hvac system? Throughout the return, air handler box, all the supplies etc?

Hey Scott what state are you located, and did you put aux heat or the unit could handle the cold weather by itself, Thanks

I laughed at the genius of using the dolly to stand it up. I was trying to figure out how to do that myself

Could you give me the model number for the thermostat that you show and where did you get it? Can't find it anywhere

if it works and you don't mind your quality then it's good

Awesome video! Respect! Question: I know it's different in every town but aren't there inspections required once completed (at least for the electric and natural gas)?

I used to be a union tin knocker, I can’t watch this guy make duct one piece at a time,

Only critique is on the plenums, you could have used S-slip for the joints (helps with the flexing). Duct butter the internal seams, the last seam and cover with insulation. The only ones who will know are the next guy who's there to replace the air handler in 25 years and will likely re-use the plenum. Great work otherwise. I've seen pro's hack in pro made duct. Great vid.

When you crank those line sets down, do you need another wrench...two wrenches to do it? Looks like you just used one.

What is the part number for the 90 Degree return air shoe

Some foil tape over those seams would help seal them. Or mastic

Could you give me the Menards 90' filterbox model or sku #. I think it will work perfect for my build too. Thanks for all the good information!

how would you do this if the air handler needs to be in a attic?

Came here expecting to read all the upset hvac contractors saying how they wouldn't work on a diy system and how diy systems won't work right, etc etc etc. You know, basically being butt hurt, they didn't get paid their ridiculous markups!

Need to buy the thermostat that you have could you give me the model so I can buy it thanks.

The GE disconnect is not highly rated. Could one install the Siemens 60A disconnect for both the indoor and outdoor units?

Question: 6/2 wire was added to both the heat pump and air handler to the electrical panel to convert 220v to 110v?

Do you have the link for the sheet metal base?

Do you have electric heat strip? Was it preinstalled in the cabinet?

What made you choose the hyper heat over the Universal? Is the hyper heat system a communicating thermostat? I ask because I'm about to purchase either the Universal or the Hyper Heat

Do you have the link to the blog post you mentioned?

Great video, I love it. A/C supply houses will not sale a A/c unit without a A/C contractor license. It is a closed world there. You can buy Freon if have an EPA license. But you cannot buy equipment (A/C unit) without it. It is a lot more politics than having the proper certifications. So, this perfect! Thank you.

My Mrcool only lasted 1year . It kept breaking down so my Ac tech installed a carrier. Mrcool is made in China . First 6 months the evaporator coil had a major leak then 6 months later the compressor went out

Do the cut off valves come with the unit and parts

Where did you purchase the Mr Cool unit and lineset?

3.5 ton unit will have1300-1400 CFM max air flow. Return duct lower 90 deg is too sharp of bend and too small total area that appears to be less than one sq.ft.. A lot of air turbulence created at sharp elbow along with very high air velocity over 1500 FPM. Will raise static pressure resistance.

Where is your torque screwdriver? You need to torque your electrical connections down to what is specified for your wire size

thanks where you get the return duct?

I would recommend some aluminum tape around all the joints to help with air loss

Where did you get the s and c cleats?

Following along as best as possible with the 24k version of this, what am I missing with the weird square drain plugs in the AHU? I had to rotate the components as I'm doing a horizontal right configuration so the original vertical drain plugs I was able to remove but the ones I actually need are stuck fast and the plastic is start to warp. Not sure if there is a very specific tool required here but anyone else had this issue?

Newb question: Does this system provide both heating and AC?

I am an HVAC dealer and to make installs quicker I try to get as much prefabricated ducting as possible. Where did you get the filter rack and rounded return air boot at? I did not see that in your links of tools and supplies. I use the same return plenum your AHU is sitting on but have been searching for the built-in filter rack for 4-5" filters and the rounded return air boot. Could you please link me or tell me where I can find that item? It is showed at the 13:14 mark of the video. Thank you!! Usually, I use an AprilAire or honeywell filter box to attach between the return and the furnace/AHU, but it would be nice to have a solution that can accept larger filters.

Please add the words heat pump to your description. This will get you more traffic as heat pump installs are hard to find

Really excellent. Does a similar U.S. manufactured unit exist? I discovered this one is made in China and just sold in the U.S.

USA should really do what us all over the world do 240volt,

Why did you pick this one over the Universal? Was this because of a sponsorship? Comparing the specs, the universal is more efficient and they both go the same low outside temps. The Hyper Heat looks to have a slightly better warranty and might be slightly cheaper, but otherwise it looks like the Universal is the better option. Also, you said you weren't going to use the thicker filter option. They are definitely better: better airflow with higher MERV ratings and they last longer (I change mine once a year).

Isn’t this a heat pump? What are going to do when this goes into defrost and creates water? Mr Cool doesn’t say to have that 10” or more off your slab? Maybe it doesn’t freeze in your location, so it’s not needed.

As for thermostats, if you have a blue wire, you have 24 volts and usually in that case, a battery isn't required but has the option. Alternatively, if you MUST have a battery, I would suggest a "Battery Eliminator" or "Dummy Battery". Those can be found in The Amazon. Then perhaps run a wire from an emergency power source (If you have your AC and / or Furnace also powered that way) and you won't have to worry about a damn battery which are harmful for the environment and need to be disposed of in a way that's inconvenient. You said you have 8 wires in 18/7 wire. I purchased a spool of 18/7 and all I have is 7 wires total. So that piqued my curiosity. Was I cheated by The Home Depot ? Also, since you have about 4 or 6 wires you're not using, a dummy battery would be perfect for you, and you can connect that to some of those wires you're not otherwise using to carry a current. You might even be able to tap off the transformer if you understand how resistors work or just cut the transformer off the dummy battery eliminator and run it from the other end through those "unused" wires. When I buy electrical tape, I usually go out of my way to find multiple colors. In the case of "Marking" wires I might settle on a multicolor pack which isn't really electrical tape. But if you can, go for actual electrical tape because it's better.

You better hold up there buddy... you did not mention anything about a surge protection for the outdoor condenser nor did I see one on the disconnect box outside unless there's one already inside the condenser which I HIGHLY doubt,, if I were you, if there is no surge protection on that condenser I would turn the disconnect box back off and I would not run that system until you get one on , or you're going to have problems!! surge protection is a MUST on inverter systems.

Did I miss something? Did you forget to insuate your supply plentum? It will get cold and sweat and rust your sheet metal. Made that mistake when rebuilding mine and had to put duct board on the outside instead of the inside. I noticed that your exsting ducts were insuated on the inside. Your temperaure at the vent were off. For cooling there should be about a 20 degree F difference between return air and supply air. Unless you have a variable speed unit. With a variable speed unit you have to get it operating at high speed to take the measurement.

Why not use rivets?

Need ai powered vr glasses to visualize the ducting configuration

Couple of thought, I've noted that a lot of highly respected (by me and others) KZfaq content creators are using MrCool products. By the time a professional gets around to installing your system any reasonable DIYer could have installed several systems. In my experience installation costs are often 2-3 times the cost of materials this gives a DIYer significant reserve cash to replace failed parts should any problems occur. Many MrCool products retain the 10 year (near industry best) warranty when homeowners install the product in their own home if the pre charged line sets are used. With that being said I see very few MrCool failures. I do see reports that MrCool customer service is not perfect. Finally the new technology heat pumps are so efficient they will pretty much work fairly well anywhere in the lower 48. Please correct me if my impressions are incorrect. I am strongly leaning DIY MrCool in a new home build. As a foot note in this video's application the 220/240 volt service is still single phase.

Why does nobody ever mention on the internet how to remove the drain caps to install the drain pipe? Is it some kind of secret that nobody is supposed to know?