Hi Pat, Many thanks. Peter

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Gary, Excellent and well done. Cheers. Peter

Hi Bill, Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter

Hi Kent, If draught at the edges were not an issue I would have cut mine to the exact size of the doors and stuck it on with double sided tape or those double sided sticky foam pads. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop "draught"?

thanks.

Hi Mark, There are many ways of going about this but my foil solution is the best for me. I have had to open one of the doors several times and the ease of taking the foil down is a great advantage. Cheers. Peter

Hi Rico, Thant is good advice. I only need to open one of my doors about every 2 or 3 weeks on average - when wood gets delivered or when something large has to go out. So, my insulation can be removed and rolled up in less than 2 minutes - or at least that is the theory ! Cheers. Peter

Doors with built in insulation are available but, in the roller format, the top box gets quite bulky and reduces headroom.

Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter

Hi Peter, Yes, and those little red people on Mars will never know that I am doing woodwork in the workshop ! Cheers. Peter

Hi John, Many thanks. I think that you are right about draft exclusion but there is also a significant advantage in sound proofing which has been noticed by several visitors. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Yes i overlooked sound consideration, the less dense insulation you've added will help with that, and give a noticeable improvement over the door itself.

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad you enjoyed it!

Keith, I used this product to insulate the eaves of our house as our bedroom is in what would be the loft area. From an insulation point of view it worked very well. Peter has, as always, highlighted some of the problems in working with it, although mine were different in a confined space. The only point of caution I would add is that it isn't good to drill into. I can't remember the reason that I needed to drill through it, into a joist or a wall. The drill bit went through it easily enough but the the fibres in the insulation suddenly gripped it with enough torque to stop the drill in its tracks. Then, try as I might, I couldn't get the damn bit out. I literally had to leave it in place. So, when creating your wall, if you're putting this on the wall and boarding/sheeting over the top just be aware that you might have problems at a later stage if you are trying to get any anchors or plugs into the wall. Hope that this helps.

Hi Jon, I will test this today as I had no problem when putting screws in and, in my experience, screw threads tend to pick up a problem like this more often than drilling. Are we sure that we are talking about the same product? Peter

jon Carter thank you for this the plan was to use roof battens on the single course garage walls staple this to it then counter batten which will require screwing through but not drilling

Hi Jon, You are absolutely right - those fibre layers do get caught in the drill. I will include this in my next Workshop Notes video as the solution is not too difficult. Basically, staple around the area where the hole has to be drilled and either cut away a small section where the drill is to go or make up a punch out of copper pipe sharpened on one end to make a clean hole. Cheers. Peter

Hi Peter, as always you provide brilliant videos for the KZfaq community and, as is the case here, practical solutions. Brilliant! Best regards Jon.

Hi Mark, Those are big doors - good luck. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Yes, they are big and the greatest problem with them is air infiltration. Although winter hasn't yet set in, we had 60 mile per hour winds today. That is typical of any cold weather warming trend here in Wyoming.

Gosh, that is pretty tough. Good luck with the doors. Peter

Hi Harry, It is really good for insulation but you have to watch the gaps around the edges. I am not sure how good it is at noise reduction as I cannot measure it but I would guess that it appears to cut the noise by about half but that is only 3 dbs. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter hi,, Many thanks for your prompt and very useful response. Best regards, Harry

Hi Harry, I think that in an ideal world something similar to polystyrene sheets, stuck to the door, would be better but that could not be used in my case as I wanted the insulation to extend beyond the actual door. My solution works reasonably well although I now only have it on the main workshop door as I am keeping the car on the other side. Taking the insulation down and putting it back up is a slow process. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter hi, Many thanks for your prompt response which I found very helpful.

Hi Max, If your door is like mine and built in sections it may be possible to attach insulation to each section. If it is a standard 'up and over' door then just attach the insulation making sure that the mechanism will still work. Peter

Hi Maurice, We lived in a house with a garage like that - it had been designed for the cars of the 1950s and my Volvo was too wide for the garage door. What made it worse was that I could not use it as a workshop as it flooded even after the slightest bit of rain. Peter

:) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZN9lKZqy6zYqmQ.html

I too use my garage as a workshop. It is heated for our very cold Canadian winters. There is nothing more fulfilling, for me, than turning wood into something useful and beautiful. Enjoy your now warmer shop.

Hi Maurice, I always wanted a wood stove in my workshop but have to settle for a normal radiator. Cheers. Peter

Loads of guys us wood stoves here as wood is abundant. I use a forced air natural gas heater hung from my ceiling. Just set the temp in the morning, go have breakfast as the shop warms up. Enjoy your shop.

Hi Andrew, You do need to keep the temperature above the dew point - that will stop condensation forming anywhere that is at that temperature or higher. I achieve this by having a radiator in my workshop but there is also a reasonable flow of air between the house (utility room) and the garage/workshop. Also, despite my insulating efforts, there is still a bit of draft through the garage doors. So, the trick is to have some exchange of air either to the outside when it is dry or into the house. Also, to try and keep the temperature above the dew point. Google "dew point" for more information. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Great reply Peter and fully understood, once insulated I’ll introduce some low level heating - thank you👍

No it will not. I said that when I want to open the door that the insulation will be removed. That is why I have not used any fixings to keep it in place. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I missed that part. Thank you for clarifying that. I'm a garage door guy, we get a lot of people adding stuff to their for then complaining that it doesn't work right.

Yes, I appreciate the problem that you might face. The solution that I went for is so quick and easy to take down or put back up again. Cheers. Peter

Hi Craig, I will try and remember to let people know. I am monitoring it already but it is too mild here at the moment. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop wonderful.

I did a test this afternoon but it was not very scientific. Before installing the insulation I tried running my NVD750 extractor and seeing what it sounded like from the driveway. One needed to be about 8 m away to call it an acceptable level of noise (just). Today I had both the NVD750 and my Festool CT26 running at the same time and would say that the noise was acceptable at 5 m and very low by 10 m. I do not have any more precise way of doing the test and will not take the insulation down just to do another test. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop thanks. That's good to know. Original I thought putting a barn style double door behind the garage door for maximum insulation. But your method seems a lot less work. I may give it a try and see how it works.

I have no scientific way of checking (read my previous comments). Peter