I use compressed air to clear my bar and it greatly improves oiling.

Excellent job. i appreciate how concise and clear this video is, and other than failing to mention the oiler holes, you hit the main points. in my experience, for those who are interested, the newer the chain is, the less sensitive it will be to burrs on the bar causing issues, and the more worn, the more sensitive. as you file the teeth, they become shorter and your cut becomes narrower, causing the burrs to contact the wood sooner. Also, the burrs are more noticible when making horizontal cuts when you rest the weight of the saw on the bar rather than holding the weight.

A disc sander also works great for deburring the bar and squaring the top. Use a black sharpie marker to color both rails so you can see after sanding where it is not square.

As with cleaning the saw dust, filing away from the tip sprocket minimizes filings from entering the sprocket and accidental damage to the sprocket teeth. I use compressed air to blow filings out of the rail channel in the same direction away from the tip. And also blows out the oiler holes. A good test to find burrs instead of your nail, is to use a dirty glove and if it catches any grime while pulling up and out, you've got more filing to do. If you're out in the field and don't have your bar cleaner/spec measuring tool, the corner of your base plate will work well to clear saw dust out of the rail channel. After it's all cleaned and filed, it's a great opportunity to sight down the bar and see if there's any bend to the bar (usually near the tip seam) and if your tip sprocket is splaying out/opening up. If there's daylight down either side of the sprocket or both, it might be time for a new bar since it will tend to throw the chain more often and/or wear out the tie straps and drivers on your chains.

great video,very clear and very well presented

Thank you

Good video for me at m level. I can see how this will improve cuts and make my saw easier, faster and safer to use.

Good video, thank you.

Great video, learned a lot. So my issue is this: brand new chain saw, the first time I used it and I wacked the edge of a plastic wheel barrel which seemed to cause the chain to cease. Disassembled the blade and the chain binds on the lower. How do I fix that..Thanks and keep making your videos, we're watching.

I will buy that oregon tool tomorrow morning thanks

Great video - how about one showing how to use a rail closing tool?

I have had a Black and Decker Electric Chainsaw for the last 40 years, it is so light I can hold it in one hand. The bar has been dressed several times, and as well as the burr on the outside of the bar, it also creates a burr on the inside of the guide slot. This has to be removed with a 1.2mm thick flat mini-file. I think I have also used an oil-stone for the external dressing.

Good tips, but a little incomplete. When cleaning the groove, btw they make an inexpensive tool specifically for that, you need to pay special attention to cleaning the oiler holes at the end. If they are plugged, clean grooves will not matter. Also, as bars wear, the groove gets wider from wearing on the inside. Thus, your chain will not fit tight, causing it to lean to one side or the other, causing issues with cutting crooked and causing more wear to the bar. They also make an inexpensive tool for closing the gap on the rails, fixing these issues. As for flipping the bar, I do it every time I sharpen the chain, and I clean the grooves and oiler hole at that time also. Good video though, bar maintenance is a very overlooked topic.

Can i restore a bar with this method when the chainsaw is already cutting bends?

Thanks for the video. Unfortunately you are filing/dressing from back to front wheel, and fill the wheel with dust.

Dress the top of the bar first, then the sides last. Try to keep the top and sides at a 90 degree, so it wont mushroom out as fast.

Not bad at all fella... I would add a healthy dose of air to remove that swarf, especially in the two oil holes (which will be utterly full of oily crud anyway) and the nose sprocket can only easily be cleaned with compressed air anyway. Letting it spin up with air pressure (WEAR EYE PROTECTION) will usually release a surprising amount of rubbish. When filing don't go back and forth with the file... It will not only damage the file but the end finish will not be as good... Instead keep the angle with the cut of the file and lift off at the end of the stroke as you would normally. I've not tried that bar dressing tool before. I'll be sure to take a look as it would shave an age of the job by the looks of it! Cheers chap :o)

Good video, however you forgot to clean the oiler holes.

Please note that the translation is strange because it is done through translation software. I understand that maintenance of the guide bar is important, but it seems that the person doing the maintenance has little knowledge of the file and does not know how to use it. Except for diamond files, you can basically only file in one direction. Therefore, if you shave it in the opposite direction or to the side, the file's eyes will close and the life of the file will be significantly shortened.

" If you're a home owner you probably aren't going to have much wear on top of the bar" Hmmm....Only renters have bar wear?