Thanks man! Let me get some more experience and I'll share what I've learned.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo Thats awsome! I'm looking forward to it. Handsaw techniques is something i have to learn so i can use it in my own videos. If i learn it from your video i will defenetly refer to your channel! A litle bit like mister miyagi and daniel san hahahaha. You will be my handsaw technique master😂

🤣🤣🤣👍

@@YouCanMakeThisToo You night want to check out Wood by Wright. He's pretty hardcore into hand tools. Of course, my personal spirit animal is Paul Sellers. He's pretty next level.

Good recommendations! James is an awesome dude, I’ve seen tons of his stuff, same with Paul Sellers.

I can’t explain it, just know that it is. Thanks!

Thank you! It took me a few years to be willing to try this, and to be honest I still wasn’t very confident when I started. But the only way to get better at something is to try.

Thank you! I’ll keep them coming.

Thanks! They were a lot of fun, my first time doing joints that way. It's very cool to have a fan in Egypt!

Thanks! That little trick made chiseling them a lot easier. I did that on the last ones and it worked like a charm.

Thank you very much!

Thanks! I’m trying really hard to break away from “and then I did what you see..” that flush trim saw idea worked super well

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Yes it is!

Thanks! I’ve gotten some since then.. scrapers are amazing.

It’s pretty cool! It has barbs around it that grabs the dog holes. My bench is so thick normal holdfasts won’t work :/

Heck yeah! You should try. It was my first go too, just take your time. And be sure to send pics!

Thank you so much!

@@YouCanMakeThisToo you are most welcome

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks!

Woohoo! Way to be a 10 percenter!

@@YouCanMakeThisToo :D

Thanks, Grant! I’ll work to include that in my projects. I’m not sure about a video on it, I don’t consider myself much of a designer. But I’ve probably learned more than I’ve realized. Most of my projects are driven by function. They have to do certain things, those things normally have critical dimensions, and then I solve for the rest of the dimensions from there if that makes sense. As far as this one goes, the client wanted something very clean and simple, no frills. I pitched the exposed joinery as a way to add some interest and they loved the idea.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks! I look forward to meeting you too

Thanks!

Awesome! Thank you!

Thank you very much, I appreciate all the comments and support!

Thanks Chris!

This t.co/oLg9l5gL3F is an amazing book about wood working. I took several classes and completed a one year diploma in carpentry at a local tech college; this is better than any book I worked out of during those courses. It includes useful photos and goes over almost everything.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks! Copied from a previous commenter with a similar point.. They do have equal widths after being flush cut, when driven in they appear to not because they have different heights because of how I cut them. My wedges go in different "depths", but they all go in the same thickness, the height difference is because they weren't cut identically. I was really concerned with that, but it's not an issue if you cut your mortise right and the middle of your tenon is sturdy. When the tenon goes in the mortise, it's snug on the bottom, it cannot expand there. That middle part of the tenon is incapable of flexing, it's just too wide and that tiny wedge won't do it. So each wedge will only go down until either the outside tenon piece meets the side of the mortise, or the wedge bottoms out. So, assuming the mortise is cut correctly, and your tenon isn't tiny.. if there's any issue with inconsistency of wedge "thicknesses" then it's because the wedges weren't cut right, but most likely it's because the angles chopped on the ends of the mortise aren't consistent.

Thanks so much!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Hahaha, thanks! Believe it or not.. I do large. It's cause of my belly, not my height :/. But those new shirts of yours look great!

Thank you!

Aww, thanks! Of course it does!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Decent plan, however, you might consider orienting the wedges in the tenons across the grain so not to risk splitting the bench top next time.

Thanks! Considering the size of the tenon, I don’t think the small wedges can push the material in the middle. How deep they go and the reveal is determined by the angle on the side of the mortise.

Glad I’m not the only one! One day I’ll be good enough to finish after just planing and scraping, but today is not that day.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo haha, we all keep practising and learning that why your chanel is really helpful. Thanks :)

Great tip, thanks very much!

Thank you!

Thanks! Very good point. Haha, that’s fantastic. When I remember I try to leave little nuggets like that to look forward to, can’t get too serious.

No worries, I get a fair bit of comments about it. And trust me... I'm very very conscious of where my hands are around that beast, whether it's running or not.

Haha glad to hear it!

Its preference. Once you over cut either, it's overcut and loose.

Thanks! With it so rectilinear I don’t think a round over would look good, but I could’ve done a heavy chamfer

Easy is too subjective.. I'd say it's straight forward but less you really challenge your fundamentals. All the angles are hidden and there's no crazy curves or angles like I tend to do now. It's a great project to just work core skills. And I think I just used Arm R Seal satin on this.

This thing wouldn't take a finger, it'd eat my whole hand. The camera angle often makes it look like I"m closer to the blades than I am, trust me, I'm always very conscious of where my hands are in relation to the blade when I'm using the jointer. But thank you for the concern and comment! :)

@@YouCanMakeThisToo There's always a critic... :/ Love the vid, keep em coming!

Thank you!

You aren't the only one to notice that. The adage, "an inch is good as a mile", does not apply here.

I had the same thought as soon as I saw it. No blade guard and that hand so close...it made my palms sweat a little bit. Featherboards and push blocks are cheap, at least in comparison to an ER visit because your hand was demolished. That being said, I love the finished project...I'm going to make one.

It could be.. just have to be aware of the wood movement. If the legs expand with the top it won’t be a problem

Awesome!

Thanks! My skills improved quite a bit just in the beginning to end. I feel like doing a project that needs them gives me way more practice than just practice. And it’s less boring, even if the stakes are higher.

The wedges are made from scrap from the project so they match. Here's my machine substitution series: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdenm6aByZ3Zm58.html It shows alternative options for each common machine.

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking about? Do you mean sloping the ends? Definitely, I don't see wedges working without them.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo Yes, that is what I meant. Wasn't sure what to call it so I made up my own terminology! Thanks for the input.

I think it was about 15" deep, 4' long, and 17" tall

Thank you! Very good points. That’s why I was comfortable trying it on this project for the first time. I knew the material would be able to handle my novice 😁

Thank you!

😁😁😁 gotta have fun man

@@YouCanMakeThisToo Always!

Close finish with "tickle your pickle".

Cnn u also must use chisel to clean sharp corners because of cutter radius. Finally his way is best and faster

You do you and be proud of it

This was a commission and went to the client after it was done... that said I never heard back from them. Given that its centuries old techniques and the client has been quiet, I'm gonna assume it's aged just fine.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo awesome. I'm definitely going to try this. Thanks for the reply.

Totally! Assuming tight joints like you said, and glue. There is a risk that after years of use and wiggling the glue joints might break (like all the old wobbly chairs). It won’t fall apart, but after a loooonnggg time you may end up wanting to knock it apart and glue it back up (by then you’d probably just wanna build a new bench with your greatly improved skills anyway though!)

Thanks, Adam! It’s the GVM 48” from amazon. I don’t think they still have that exact model.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo great thanks! I believe they are still available

I’ll add it to my list 👍

@@YouCanMakeThisToo sweet

Not sure. Thanks!

12” cordesman Meyers co from c1890.

Thanks! Maple top and cherry sides.

Thank you for being a regular watcher and your comment, especially thank you for providing criticism in a genuine way. I want to say first, you're right. This is what I do full time, and I've learned to enjoy the video process as much as the woodworking (though I've recently passed off editing so I can spend more time doing builds and less at the computer). And I've swung too far, I like to do end sequences and have gotten so focused on trying to get a variety of visually interesting detail shots that in this one I completely missed getting a few good whole project shots. I apologize and thank you for bringing it to my attention, this will help me not make that mistake again. I honestly didn't even realize there were not complete shots in the end and in this case, the thumbnail isn't a full size project shot like usual (the full size shot loses the joinery and I thought the bench was plain enough it wouldn't capture attention, hence the focus on the joinery in the thumbnail). I will do better for you in the future, but as far as this project goes I do have quite a few photos I took before it went to the client. Some of them are on my instagram, but if you want you can also send me an email and I'd be happy send you some full photos, Ross. I could write pages on the thought I put into the direction I want my videos to go and what I want viewers to get out of them.. but that would bore everyone to death I'm sure. Allow me to simply say your feedback is incredibly valuable and will influence my videos going forward (might take a few before you see that because I have stuff already done - but you will). But, thank you for taking the time to give your feedback. It's probably obvious to you, but as a creator "what does my audience want, how can I better serve/entertain them?" can be an enigma.

Didn’t come with one, it’s been on my list for a while.

I spent about 25 hours on this, but that includes filming. Can easily knock 5-10 hours without worrying about setting up camera, microphone, lights, slider, etc... but, it took a week and a half. My milling process takes 3-4 days and finishing is a 2-3 day process, but a lot of that is rest and cure time.. not working time.

It's maple.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo thanks and can you give me measurement 1:29?

I think it was 4' long, 13" seat, 17" tall

Was looking for someone who noticed this too. I will say tho, if you do it correctly and just flare out the tenon to just kiss the tapered sidewalls instead of driving in the wedges until they are super tight and are literally wanting to split the mortise, I think it should be ok. The guy here seems to have done it right so it should be ok. But I definitely hear you Edward. Classically this is a no-no but if done right, it’s ok. Problem is when you look at it, you don’t know if the person doing it knew what they were doing 😜

@@briantheprion It's just a bad habit to get into, you're just setting yourself up for failure. Just "kissing the tapered sidewalls" kind of defeats the purpose of using a "wedge". If all the grain is running in the same direction, then you add a wedge, you're basically trying to split the wood apart but stop just short of it actually breaking. This project looks to have a large enough cross section that I don't think it will faill but I stand by my comments. Wedged tenon joinery done properly creates a strong point in the construction, in the wrong orientation it becomes a week point.

@@Eweber007 I personally would not do it since anyone who knows a little about woodworking will forever point it out and then I would have to explain it to them for all time. If done correctly however it’s not actually causing the mortise assembly as a whole to wedge the walls of the mortise: it’s sort of like a drop in dovetail joint but just in an enclosed space. If whatever force is applied that would cause the joint to fail: well it was going to break the piece anyway. I too have pointed this flaw out to other woodworkers but Chris becksvort employs this technique in some of his furniture too and I was shocked. Like I said I wouldn’t do it myself, but if the person knows what they are doing, it can be done correctly

I will say that a “solution” around the problem discussed above is to either just do straight mortise and no wedge or split each tenon into two twin tenons so that they are square on the face and drive the wedges in perpendicular to the grain if that makes sense

@@briantheprion It all depends on how well fitted your mortise, tenon and wedges are. If you drive them in with too much force, that's when the splitting can occur. As is now, there is unnecessary internal stress at the joint wanting to split the wood, contrary to what the joint is designed to do.

First it’s important to establish this is just a semantic argument. I’d say it depends on your skill set. If you can do it with non-CNC tools and machines, you’re a woodworker. If your skills are limited to CAD, toolpaths, and CNC operation - you’re a digital fabricator. Tons of people are both. I’m both. I can do it with a handsaw and chisel. Table saw and routers. Or design a multi-texturing CNC table that my CNC cuts out that allows me to do most traditional joinery on the CNC.

@@YouCanMakeThisToo I think its more opinion than semantics. Someone using all hand tools may have a similar opinion of you using an elctric jointer/planner. I dont think its fair to say to all those who are creating things from wood can only be considered woodworkers based on a certain set of tools they use

@davelawler5353 that’s just a semantic argument over semantics. Very meta 🤣

Whatever floats your boat

I hope you appreciate the intended humor in my comment!

Oh I did 😂

Let's say you bought surfaced material. What more would you need besides a handsaw, chisel, and drill? If you didn't buy surfaced material, add a handplane.

The incra is pretty, but any homemade sled with a stop block clamped would’ve worked just as well for this project.

I just don’t want to take the time to master the software side of things. Eventually I will.

Sounds fair to me

I don’t

We've all been there, just count it a learning lesson and keep going! I'm glad this video was in my catalog to help out some.. even if a bit too late.

Fair enough

.

I get the sense you confused "traditional woodworking joinery" with "built with hand tools."

@@YouCanMakeThisToo Yep, probabily i meant something like Japanese Traditional Joinery! i'd have done this project in this "style", maybe required more time, but it's okay, the important thing is the result. Anyway nice job!

@@NovaMetrics Thanks! Yeah... I picked that title based on the fact that it was all wedged mortise and tenons. Not biscuits, dominos, pocket screws, nails, etc... As you pointed out it could be all done with hand tools, but sadly my hand skills just aren't there yet. But I hope they will be. Thanks for watching!

I highly suggest not rewatching