i actually have given alot of cuttings as gifts in my 2 years of bonsai and many have died sadly lol but some are still out there! 👍🏻 i like giving and cuttings come n go anyways

ur mother tree for this cutting is badass!!

@@cencalbonsai6429 yup, they usually do die, sooner or later ... my sister in law was looking after hers perfectly until her cat got curious and clawed it out of the soil. It died of course , the bonsai not the cat 🤣

@@cencalbonsai6429 yeah the mother tree is amazing, so vigorous considering the severe root pruning I gave it in spring. Still need to work on ramification and refining. Give it a couple of years and I will reduce the pot size again

No 😪, some people don't realise if they have pot plants, then they should be able to look after a bonsai ( with a little extra care)

Hahahaha its official, I've moved into the digital age! The white board might not be a real board but at least the pens don't dry up mid video!! nor make that unearthly screeching noise. Ah, I'm getting nostalgia already 😂🍺🍻

@@BlueSkyBonsai So long as you keep the original in the background, we'll allow it. Also keep an eye out...next video addresses our recent chats about long-ass growth on forsythia!

@@BostonBonsaiIdiot I'll be there! Just hang on, I'm going to grab some popcorn. Looking forward to see it!

Thanks Mr N, sounds like an excellent plan!

Hahaha I also like red shirts but don't have many! 😊👍🏻

It s a shohin, witch means tiny thing.

Thank you so much!

@@MrNutsHouseofLittleTreesBONSAI funny, thing, we all use "shohin" for small bonsai.. so out of curiosity I just looked it up on google translate from Japanese to English... I was surprised to see the translation seems to be nothing to do with bonsai... processing. I have a colleaugue in Tokyo, I will ask her to confirm.

Thanks ABB, glad to hear you enjoy the videos. More coming soon!

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

😊 thanks!

Thanks for your great comments! Glad you found the video useful.

I'm so pleased to hear that! I have so many cuttings and saplings now I'm asking everyone I know if they want a free mini bonsai gift! Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍

Thanks a lot!!

Hehehe thanks! But the special effects team went above their station and started scribbling all over me! not sure if I'll do that effect again. Re. the cuttings as gifts, that's the 4th I've done so far and I still have 6 more olive cuttings from last year's pruning. Don't tell anyone but I'm saving the best one for me 😊

Thanks!

Thanks! 👍

Thanks! 😊

Thank you! Good luck with the pomegranate cuttings! Pommys are excellent for bonsai. They usually root without problem, but if your winter cuttings don't root, just try again in Spring! Did you see my video about making sure your cuttings root? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNR3mbiWtqmbomw.html

Thanks so much 😊 Well I suppose the key here is to have a vision of what you want the final image to look like within those wild branches!

Many thanks Cris. Yes, although there is an advantage to their slow growth: if you have too many of them and not enough spare time! Trees that need pruning only once a year are welcome here :)

@@BlueSkyBonsai I have a Chinese elm from nursery which is still in soil and which I want to transplant. The problem is that some of the shoots are starting to bloom and I don't know if it is too late. On the other hand, what substrate do you recommend? I was going to plant it in 70/30 akadama kiryuzuna with a little humus, what do you think? On my balcony it only gets the sun in the afternoons as it faces northwest. Thanks in advance, Dave 😍

@@criszf Hi Cris, sounds like your CE is in good hands! Yes if it needs repotting then it should be fine now, Chinese elms seem to survive almost anything and now is repotting season. Here in Madrid the air is so dry that I tend to put my trees in a humidity tent or clear plastic bag for about a week after repotting, or 2+ weeks if it's later in spring. Then the leaves transpire much less, so they don't try to draw up so much water from the temporarily depleted root mass. So it doesn't lose any leaves. But even if it does lose some leaves it would probably be perfectly okay because it's a CE. I use a similar soil mix, about 1/2 to 2/3 akadama + some kiryu and some chopped pine bark. Hope that helps.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you very much! Yes, I was thinking of putting it in the greenhouse for 2 or 3 weeks so that it doesn't lack humidity and is not exposed to draughts. Thanks again, Dave. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos with or without “caracol" hehe. That was very sweet...

Thanks! That mini tree I made in this videi I gifted to someone who helped me out last year, I probably won't see again. But I made quite a lot like this from these olive cuttings, I give them to people when they visit. The "mother" tree in the video, I will do an update video of that later this year.

@@BlueSkyBonsai I realised that after I commented, hopefully the owner has kept it in as good nick as you do!

@@bomtennett I'm occasionally tempted to email the recipients of my mini gifts to see how they're getting on, but, I'm probably better off not knowing! 😉

Hi! Start by pruning the ficus to your desired shape first in its current pot, so that its existing roots will help it recover quicker from the hard pruning. Then when it has recovered fully and is growing plentiful leaves in your new tree shape, then you can repot it. If you lived in a cooler climate, with low winter temperatures, I would say wait until spring to repot it. But in India I think your trees don't really have a dormant period. so you should be able to repot it at any time of year. But like I said, first let the existing roots help to recuperate the tree after the hard pruning, and don't repot until it has grown plentiful new leaves. HTH

Hi! 1. I reuse akadama only once, and I "downgrade" I mean I use new akadama on a good tree then only reuse it on inferior trees or prebonsai, cuttings etc. After that i bin it. Yes adding in pumice or cactus mix works as long as you seive out all the dust and fine particles which otherwise clog up your drain holes. 2. I have found that cuttings taken from a 2 year old branch are more successful than a one year old branch. But you could sure try!

Some amount of light is needed to keep the leaves photosynthesizing. If they don't receive natural sunlight, then direct a grow lamp directly over the propagator, and you could leave it switched on permanently for a few weeks. When rooting cuttings, I change the water in the little water trays once per week, making sure to water right through the pots at the same time, so no stagnant water can stay in the soil. Not all cuttings root, but if you cpuld get rooting hormone then there is a higher chance of success. Good luck!

Wait 2-3 months so that the roots in your temporary pot are really starting to fill out the pot. When you repot the cutting try not to disturb the established roots, you want to keep all the new roots. 2. Cutting should be stable when you have several roots all coming out of the cutting base, 4 or more and all 2 inches or longer. 3. Signs when to repot: -you water it and the water sits on the surface for too long, doesn't drain through. -sometimes the ends of many leaves start yellowing even though you're watering regularly. -you see many many roots pushing out the drainage holes of the pot. -you smell rotting smell at the drainage holes. This last one is the most serious because if there is a smell, the roots might be rotting. HTH 🌳👍🏻

Olive cuttings, quite fast if they in a big enough pot so the roots can grow as much mass as the branches. Maybe 3 years until juvenile tree, then another 3 years until they start producing fruit. Some start sooner, some later... Yes, feeder roots can be trimmed. Any that are hanging down super-long you can cut those shorter. Then, just before potting we do a "profile cut" which means you spread the roots over the pot then trim them around the shape of the pot so that they will fit in. Again, make sure they get humidity and shade for a couple of weeks after you do that. They might loose some of the leaves... don't worry it's ok... with humidity and semi-light they will bud back again... sometimes you need to wait a couple of months. Also, remember that when you prune the roots, you slow down the growth a bit for that year. Good luck!

Thank you! The wire is simply tied over the roots to hold the cutting in place while it develops new roots. I remove the constraint of the wire after a 2 - 3 months by cutting it on the underside of the pot, so even if the remainder of the wire is still in the soil, at least it's not restricting the root growth after it is cut. Regarding the thinking behind each cut, please take a look at this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbV3dK1mzte7lp8.html both part 1 and part 2 I explain the reasons to prune, and a demo in each with an explanation of every cut. HTH!

Ps. If you can buy rooting powder that includes rooting hormone then you don't need the drops. Here in Spain they don't allow rooting hormone in solid/powder form so I use the drops. As for the powder, I really don't know what it contains but it seems to help.

@@BlueSkyBonsai wonderful thank you so much, I certainly will.

Brill, thank you

Hi @Sew Gifted M&M, good question! There are a couple of techniques here. If your bonsai pot has two holes, you literally thread your wire down one hole then up the hole so that it's anchored by the bottom of the put. But what if your pot only has one hole? what I do in this case is put a much thicker wire under the pot, about 1 inch long (or could be a small stub of wood, or anything that is longer than the hole itself but thin enough to not unbalance the pot). Then you thread your bonsai wire down the hole, wind it a couple of times around your 1 inch stub, then back up the hole again. The stub is the anchor, because it cannot pull up through the hole. Hope that helps! Please let me know how you get on! 😊🎅🌲👍

@@BlueSkyBonsai oh ok thank you for answering

Hi there and thanks for your question! I hope I can help. Where in the world are you? If you're in the northern hemisphere, autumn / winter is a bad time to prune roots. So if you need to solve the rootbound problem, then "slip pot" into a bigger pot. I show you how to do that in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rrB2lJCV2LSzaX0.html But if you're in the southern hemisphere, then spring/summer is a perfect time to prune the roots, if you need to solve the potbound roots. In this other video I repotted an olive in Spring with a very severe root-pruning and it was fine afterwards: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qKhgoq2TzKeZpWg.html If you're worried about the tree health after root pruning, keep it humid for a couple of days afterwards, or spray the leaves with water lots of time for a couple of days. You just want the leaves to stay there for many weeks after repotting, because the leaves (with light) generate energy in the tree, which it needs to rebuild its root system. This video will help you understand exactly what I mean: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l8WmjKantrKZmXk.html Hope this help. Please let me know how you get on!

@@BlueSkyBonsai hi sir i am living in the tropics. We have a lot of rain so i keep my olive trees in a place with a plastic roof. They enjoy the hot weather here but hate the rains brought by the storms. Also, my other problem is that we mostly have clay soil in the place where i live. Akadama or bonsai soil is available here but the price is so expensive as they are directly imported from Japan. Can i just use ordinary gritty cactus mix or add pumice to the soil to prevent root rot, also how do i safely prune the roots for root bound trees? I have some trees which i havent root pruned for 3 to 4 years now. does it mean that i also need to reduce and prune the foliage when root pruning? thanks a lot

@@richardandrew01 each olive tree, you could try gently lifting out of the pot to inspect the roots. 1. If they are indeed rootbound then yes, you need to prune the roots shorter to give them more space in the pot. In a tropical region it should recover well, as long as it is kept in high humidity (sounds like you have humid air there?) and don't let the soil dry for a few weeks after repotting. 2. Don't prune branches at the same time as roots. (Wait a few months). Just keep all the leaves humid for a few days after root pruning. I have to keep misting leaves here in Madrid. Some people use a clear plastic bag over the whole tree for a few days after repotting to make sure it stays humid. 3. Yes, the same granular soil as cactus plus add a lot of pumice granules too. Should be fine. 4. Don't use any fertilizer at all until you see new leaves growing. Might be several weeks before you see that. Hope that helps!

Thanks yes unfortunately the closeup camera died while I was shooting. That was 3 years ago... since then I bought a much better closeup camera and lens... you can see the results in some of my latest videos!

@@BlueSkyBonsai awesome I am new to bonsai…. And been following so many of you who are posting these tutorials…. And I am really amazed that you are showing diagrams.. Very useful and helpful. I will watch your new videos. God bless

I think olives are one of the most successful species to get cuttings to root. It can be quite a thick cutting, up to 8mm thick, but not too long. Maximum 10cm long. In this video here I show you my method, and this year I got 100% success from these olive cuttings: they ALL gave me roots. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNR3mbiWtqmbomw.html Plastic bags are good but it's critical that your cuttings don't move or get touched or knocked etc. because that could break any tiny root stubs as they start to grow roots. An incubator / propagator box is better because it protects them from animals (and kids :) while they're rooting. I always keep the cuttings in the incubator for a few weeks after I see the first roots. Anyway please watch the video link above and let me know if you have any questions! 🌳👍🏻

Thanks Richard, and you're definitely asking the right questions. All trees need fine feeder roots to "drink" water. Full size trees also need the fat, large roots to help anchor them down to the ground, and to store large quantities of usable carbohydrate. Bonsai trees need lots of thin feeder roots, but they don't need the large finger-like thick roots. so you can prune off fat roots (as long as you don't need them for nebari). On a bonsai, the fatter roots are not used to hold the tree in place; after you prune roots, use some wires to fix the tree in the pot and keep it still for many weeks. Keep it in the shade for a couple of weeks after root pruning, and keep it humid to make sure the leaves don't dry out while there are less roots sending them up water. Please watch these two videos, and look closely at which roots I'm cutting off and which ones I'm keeping! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ftiEpcdq1qzZlI0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nsV5a8x6p5bJn5s.html Good luck! 😊

It sounds like you are a tree-lover maybe?! If so, you're in good company. In nature, trees get whacked and torn by the wind, and bitten by animals and hit by lightening. They develop character and grow back more mature and more beautiful. We try to replicate that in bonsai - we try to make bonsai look like miniature versions of big trees. In bonsai, you need to make big cuts to make small trees! Thanks for your comment and sorry for the delay in my reply. (KZfaq had filtered out your comment because they thought "from.how" was a website!! )

Hi, I don't have any golden rain trees but I have seen some beautiful examples of them as bonsai. So yes I would recommend you give it a go with some cuttings to see if they strike roots. Try some of the new shoots from the trunk, and also some branch-endings too, to see which root easier. I did a video on increasing the success rate of roots from cuttings - please see: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNR3mbiWtqmbomw.html Thanks for your comment!

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks so much

Yes, you can. We call that cutting of a cutting!

@@BlueSkyBonsai great, thank you!

Hello! Good day!

Haha there are lots of types of cat litter, I hope this stuff isn't radioactive!! It has to be non-clumping, diatomaceous clay or baked/expanded clay. It had to be the right stuff or it will go mushy and starve your roots! Thanks for watching and commenting 😁👍🏻

Thanks! Hope you can find a wild olive because they are great for bonsai. 🌳👍

Great! Are you "binge-watching" all my 42 episodes? 😂😂👍🏻 I think your question is answered in my video "Bonsai pots and bonsai health - understanding the effects of your pot choice": kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f9Blna-YupO-qI0.html But let me know if you're still in doubt!

@@BlueSkyBonsai all clear! thanks

Aluminium wire 2.5mm (1/10 inch) from an online bonsai supplies retailer, soil was mostly akadama, "shohin" size granules

Definitely, well said 👍🏻 Happy new year!

Hi Jeff, Thanks! Now that's a big question!! I will email you my thoughts. And yes, it's a good question for me to to ask in a future video 👍🏻

Here is my video about taking cuttings and getting them to root successfully: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNR3mbiWtqmbomw.html From memory I think it was 9 months between taking the cutting and potting it up. But normally I let my cuttings grow for 3-5 years before I start pruning them into a bonsai shape, so they grow a lot bigger before bonsifying them.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you very much. I'll watch, have a go and keep you posted. My neighbour has a silver birch with nice shapely branches I've sought permission to cut from. Not a bad swap for a couple of little Pothos and Tradescantia rooted cuttings. I'm quite successful with houseplants so I'll try to broaden my horizons.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks I watched the tutorial on cuttings. Any guidance on max. thickness/diameter you'd look to cut as I imagine too thick and the cut won't support new growth.

@@moraycook It really depends on the species. Easy rooters like olive and elm can be quite thick - up to a centimetre. Maybe thicker... But trident maples and Japanese maples, I have only had success with softwood cuttings, like 2mm or 3mm maximum. I haven't tried birch so can't tell you from my experience...

Hi this is a wild olive (Olea Oleaster). You can see some recent work on this tree in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nsx9pJCLrrWropc.html

Thanks! Yes - try not to damage the roots as you transfer them, and make sure they still receive plenty of water in their new growing medium.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks do I need to tie also or can I wait until the next transfer?

@@KevinCampbell-un5qe if they're indoors and they're not going to get knocked by a cat, dog or person... then you don't need to tie them into the pot. If they're outdoors in wind, or if there are animals, it helps to tie them down so any gentle knocks won't unearth your cuttings.

@@BlueSkyBonsai They’re inside on plant stand, I transferred last night in these six inch trays with drain pans. I started will bonsai blend soil on bottom and then a thick layer of money tree premium loose soil with then layer of more bonsai soil on top layered. I also topped with moss? I’m hoping this can be they’re new home for at least months , a year would be nice ?? I’m definitely keeping a lot of water twice a day. Do you have any suggestions on what I’ve done. I really wished I had started in 10 inch porcelain trays but I’m new to the game. Material and these exotics are not cheap, they say plants like porcelain the best which I plan on getting soon, how long before I need to use the pliers and pruning and all that?? On the next transplant?? Thanks for being there buddy. I appreciate it very much! I can’t stress it enough

@@KevinCampbell-un5qe it sounds like your seedlings are in good hands. One thing to consider: a reason we plant more cuttings and seedlings than we actually need is because some could die. Keeping that in mind makes it much less of a problem if one dies, y'know - psychologically - than if one dies and it was your only one.

It has to be non-clumping cat litter, and you have to seive out the dust and fine particles before you can use it. Otherwise, sure it will turn into mush and starve the roots. Do you have "sanicat pink" where you live? Works great. In United States you might find this article interesting: www.bonsaiempire.com/forum/repotting-and-soil/8128-diatomaceous-earth

@@BlueSkyBonsai Oh, all right. I thought it was weird. XD I don't think we do. But we probably have something similar. :P Right now I have a mixture of wood chips, dirt and LECA pellets. I hope that'll work fine. :P

@@SysterYster i don't have LECA here but I have heard that it's good. The main thing to look out for in your soil is to make sure the dust and fine particles don't clog up the drainage and the tiny air gaps between granules in your soil. Those gaps are necessary for the roots to get oxygen-rich water.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Alright. It dries up pretty fast. I guess that's good? XD

@@SysterYster it depends on your climate. Where I live it gets really hot in summer so I want soil to retain more moisture. But in cooler or wetter environments, you don't want to retain so much water.

At some stage, I'll do a video on soil. Until then I recommend this video by my bonsai friend Ian at Back Garden Bonsai: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pZ13f5p41cjMdqM.html - it's got all the essentials you need to know. Btw are you in Dallas as your YT name suggests?

Also in this video I talk about soil granule size. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rrB2lJCV2LSzaX0.html If you live in a hot dry climate you need to compose your soil with water retention in mind. If you live in a wet cool climate, water retention is not so important, and drainage is the main concern. Actually, good drainage is the main concern in all cases 🌳👍🏻

@@BlueSkyBonsai looking forward to the video! I’ll check out his video as well. No I’m not in Dallas, that’s my name, but I am in Utah which still has a hot dry climate in the summer time. I plan on growing inside, though. As much as I’d like to do it outside I’m worried about various weather conditions, people, and animals messing the growth up. Thank you for the reply.

@@dallasl5654 that's cool, definitely small trees are at risk outdoors. As you said animals, people, extreme weather, and hot dry summers. But I should warn you, indoors is not entirely risk-free: for some reason the indoor trees seem to attract a lot of insect infestations (scale, mealybugs, mites, etc) and I guess it's because indoors we don't have the larger insects like ladybugs and beetles. If you don't mind spiders, it can be helpful to keep a spider in each bonsai. 🕷🌳 but I get continual infestations on mine, really difficult to eradicate. Sounds like the Utah climate is similar to here in Madrid... so even for indoor trees you need to consider high retention properties of your soil. You might want to add fine-chopped pine bark to your mix (seived to exclude the dust). I do.

They sometimes stop growing leaves when the termperature goes above 35 or so degrees C. Where are you? Make sure to keep watering the soil. If the leaves actually start yellowing and dropping then maybe there's a problem. But just not growing new leaves is not itself a problem.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Greetings, Thank you for the reply. I am in Tunisie it's getting a bit hot 31°C and started yellowing a bit without dropping. I am thinking to change the sole and report it. I am keeping it in door and wittering it 3 times a week. What do you think? Thanks again

@@haythembahrini8426 please watch this video, this is the easiest way to repot an olive without risking the tree's health. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rrB2lJCV2LSzaX0.html Hope this helps!

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much.

Thank you!! Next time you're in Madrid just let me know!

@@BlueSkyBonsai haha if there wasnt covid everywhere I would take you up on that... as it is... it's gonna have to wait a bit :)

Thanks Mikey Rivera, these are also good questions! 1. There are two types of repotting, one where you prune the roots super short, radial and flat. And the other repotting we call "Slip Potting" where you move the whole root system into a bigger pot without pruning the roots. If you do a slip potting, yes you can prune the branches at the same time, and your full roots will allow the tree to push out new leaves afterwards (if it's in spring or summer). But, if you repot it with a major root pruning (like in my 2nd or 3rd video on this channel) then no, don't prune off branches at the same time because that would be removing the energy source the tree needs to regenerate its roots! You could remove a few leaves here and there, but not large masses of leaves. Generally, you can do a major branch pruning if you keep the roots, or a major root pruning if you keep the branches and leaves.

@@BlueSkyBonsai gotcha, i think i did a mistake 😅. Learned my lesson then. But how do i know if my tree survived the root and branched pruned i did? Not Wilting?

And 2. I use small grain Kiryuzuna for the top soil. But you could also use small grain akadama. Either is good because they change colour drastically when they go dry so it's very easy to see when your bonsai needs watering. For the underneath substrate mix I use about 50% akadama and 50% universal peat soil, which I sieved to get rid of all the dust, powder and tiny particles. So you get all the retention properties of the peat substrate, without clogging up all your soil granules or drainage holes. Hope that helps!

@@hoymikey don't worry, most trees somehow find their way back to life after a time!! As long as you keep watering it. It really depends on the species... some seem to be almost impossible to kill! What kind of tree is it?

@@BlueSkyBonsai We call it here in the Philippines "Mulawin Surot" i think from Vitex Species.

This is a wild olive "olea silvestris"

Thank you ☺️

Thanks for your helpful comment; you are right. In some scenes you will see close-ups from the side but just in that trimming bit, the side camera failed on me. It happens. Battery died while I was filming. I will be very interested to hear your opinions and suggestions on my other videos. Thanks again! 👍🏻

"Olea Oleaster" is the real name, the common name is Wild Olive. Excellent species for bonsai.

Thank you! Wild olives - they don't give fruit. They are good for bonsai because of their small leaves, but no olive fruit.

@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you very much

Yup! When I made this video I gifted six of these to different people here in Spain. Of those, 3 are still alive... I mean the trees 😂 all six people are still alive thankfully! So with 50% survival rate there is hope. I honestly believe that 9 tenths of keeping a bonsai alive is simply not forgetting to water it. And having it watered while you're away. I am astonished that people keep their pets alive if they can't even remember to water a potted tree every day... 🙄

Good point. I should have a try at some moment. cheers!