I just jumped in for $10 a month on Patreon. When I thought about the value, it was a no-brainer. We had cable TV for years and with all the upsells, paid nearly $100 a month for crap. It costs a minimum of $25 to go to a stupid Hollywood movie that just leaves you shaking your head after it’s over, wondering why you did that again. So to pay a measly $10 bucks a month for something that’s real, substantive content, it’s no-brainer. I’m a Canuck and I paid $13 bucks in northern pesos and it was still a good deal. I don’t think cable tv or the movies are any better in the States than they are here in the frozen north, so when you’re paying with US dollars it’s even better value. There’s 10 times as many people in the States as their are here, so given that Quinn got at least one Canadian (me) to sign up for Patreon today, I like to challenge 10 times as many viewers from the States to sign up to Patreon...and you’re not even paying $13. Are there ten of you out there in the States who are ready to take me up on this Can-Am challenge?

I love that you show the mistakes, explain them, then show the fixes. THAT is how we often learn the most valuable lessons... :)

This is truly some of the highest-quality content on KZfaq

Hey Blondihacks, I had to retrain to be a CNC machinist a few years back due to several layoffs from other jobs. I got a four-month crash course in machining from a small university and quickly found a job running a Haas lathe. I was overwhelmed at first because there is sooooo much stuff to learn! Long story short, I've since become interested in machining and I've purchased several books and watched countless videos trying to improve my machining skills. In a nutshell, most of the videos are either too complicated for my skill level or it's some clueless idiot claiming to know what they are doing and neither of these helps me at all. However, your videos are easy to understand and very succinct so I want to truly thank you for helping me and other people understand machining principals. You've been a huge help!

It's always good to spend time with and admire ones junk pile

your intros are truly the best. This one was priceless.

At first I expected to see a four jaw chuck with a spider and angle block. Very nice project, thanks for sharing.

AGREE!! the first cut that the rust is all cleaned off is VERY satisfying!

Hahahah!!Im so glad that you decided to bore that piece of material, instead of me! rim shot, sound of laughter! I'm learning from the best!! Lol

Full of respect! That patience is worth a lot in gold. Really high skill I say.

I am certain that BlondiMom is very proud of you. Keep up the great work.

Another awesome handling of a goof ... and a highly challenging build. Can't wait for more.

Lovely detailed video, thanks! Some of those small details & reasoning tend to be omitted from machining books and videos and really make a difference. Keep up the great work :)

I am emotionally torn between your well explained video and shell mill envy.

I am continously impresed with the scope of your knowledge: software, electrical, machining and cars, probably more that haven't came immediately to mind. But, when you used the anology of bubble balancing tires, I fell over. How many people remember or even knew about that? We need more people like you.

Hi Quinn, If you find yourself ever having the time, energy and sufficient amounts of coffee, I think it would be awesome if you did a video walking us through you designing one of your projects in fusion 360! I recently downloaded it, and I am finding it overwhelming to get the hang of.

This was a rollercoaster ride start to finish, I don't mind telling you!

Imagine you have a workshop full of Quinn's. It would be the smartest and cleanest shop ever.

Great video. I really enjoy your inventiveness and problem solving. Thank you and take care.

I really enjoy all the silly little jokes and comments. The machining is great too, of course.

Ok. So I didn't even get to "Let's dive in..." before I laughed out loud. Well done! Neat project. I like the idea of making your own tools. Thanks. Meow to Sprocket.

Quinn, I am new to your channel and absolutely love it. Your humor and demeanor are up there with This Old Tony and I too want to be your friend. I hope that is a complement! I have a quick note on balancing your fly cutter in Fusion. To balance the fly cutter you want the center of gravity (CG) in the XY plane to be on the axis of rotation (let's call it Z). Your trapezoidal shape does a great job in balancing in the tool direction (Let's call it X). To balance in the perpendicular direction place the Y component of the CG on the Z axis. The CG of the assembly is displayed in x, y, z coordinates in the assemblies properties as center of mass Just cut /trim away to center (zero) the x and/or y components. In the fly cutter case I beleive you will need to remove weight from the opposite side of the cutter!???? This is because the tool is very close to the CG in the Y direction(0 to .5 or ~.25) and the cutout for the set screws is around 1" so the mass at the set screw cutout has 4 times the mass at the tool location. Wow, so much for a short note. sorry

Good tip on the reduced shank drills, that hadn't occurred to me, top vid as always :)

Those oscillation facing in the lathe were crazy looking super cool

Just what the doctor ordered, i need one of those, looking forward to the next part.

god i love when people show their indicating on youtube. talk about satisfying. subscribed.

Hi, Recent subscriber here. I like your videos. May I suggest that when you tighten the Jacobs chuck, try to use all 3 holes for a better grip. This can usually prevent the bit from turning, unless the chuck has a lot of wear.

Excellent job Quinn !!!

Very much enjoy discovering your channel and your humor is appreciated. Each time you mentioned the boring bar I waited for a pun but one never came and yet eventually you tactfully explained why you had already anticipating my thoughts, crazy.

I tune in primarily for the terrible puns. Your projects are always funky but never junky, Dunki.

During the optical illusion at 20:45 I was able to put my thumb on the tool post on my screen and see that it was rock steady! Neat!

Another great project! Thanks!

A quick way to get a flaft botton after driilling would be to chuck an appriate endmill II have 3/4 endmill holder with a 1/2 straight shank) and run it in to finish the hole John

Impressive Work!!

I still don't see how you cut flies with that 🤔

So was watching this on the smart tv (an oxymoron if ever I’ve heard one) and realised I’d never subscribed to your channel, this is now fixed. I’m a fitter and turner by trade but that was a loooong time ago. Good part is, now I’ve started machining again for my own entertainment, I have at least got enough knowledge left to know what’s the ‘good oil’. Your videos are ‘good oil’, thanks for sharing your knowledge (and sense of humour).

I made a similar fly cutter years ago using the disc of material like yours but I simply drilled a 6mm hole 25mm into the edge at an angle & drilled & tapped at 90° to that hole... then I used broken 6mm endmills as cutting bits suitably ground... No balance problems with it regardless of rpm & very little involved in making it !! 😎👍☘

Good material in your videos. I just watched three and subscribed. Funny to see that we all miss-calculate some times on the one off projects and have to do "inventos" on the fly to fix the mistake. Blue chips.

Another funny and interesting video. Thanks Quinn.

Super interesting video! Subscribed.

Another great one

Your explanation is very good

Definatly a good tool for surfacing heads or decking a block

Another great project ,👍👍

love the color scheme

Great tips as well!

Thank you again for including you mistakes. very helpful

The power cross feed is such a fine feature that's why I decided two year's ago to buy a pm 1127 ,😎

Very nice, enjoyed.

Awesome.

Oh yes the drill bit spin I just love that one 😂 hopefully you caught the sarcasm in that

Thanks for sharing 👍

EXCELLENT VIDEO...tickles me to hear you talk !!! 'makes me remember all those years ago, working on and around shop equipment! I remember our shop had a tailstock chuck that had a short rounded off and half twisted tang on its morse taper. If we had a big bit to run with it, we would stick the handle end of its chuck key in the hole and rest the key on the cross feed, on a little piece of wood and a rubber band around the chuck and key. That would prevent the chuck from turning. Later, the shop got another tang pressed in that we didn't have to baby. You mentioned you were experiencing "chatter", on your cut. If you will grind a small radius on your cutter, in your lathe tool post, you will see a marked difference in less chatter as well as surface finish! My mentor showed me quite a few KEWL tricks like that. Another kewl trick is using CRISCO vegetable shortening (not the oil), for tapping steel. I just fill a pill bottle with Crisco and put the lid on. I've taught my grandson to pull the lid off. stick the tap in and put the lid back on and tap the steel. You don't have the mess you usually have and your thread quality is pretty and smooth...not grainy, like when you use tapping fluids. (my mentor worked for a major heavy equipment company, and he told them about Crisco. They bought my hometown stores out! you couldn't find any Crisco anywhere in that area of town! They make earth moving equipment.) There's your tip of the day. I APPRECIATE you and your machine-shop activities ! Oh, and before I forget it again...I absolutely love how you start your video sessions! Bill, from Tn 🇺🇸

🤣🤣 I'm sure that Ma would be very proud to have such a wonderful daggy nerd of a daughter 😊 Most intro's are pretty standard.. dare i say boring 😏 Your's are always different and funny. Never thort about Jacobs chucks like that but it makes sense. Good old physics to the rescue again👍 ⚙️😺

Love the tip withe the 123 block.The obvious is sometimes not obvious.

Thank you ❤️

Great information and to the point! Thank you so much. I'm curious to know, what software you use to model your projects?

I can tell you had your coffee 😁 No “janky” today? Nice work!

”Boring is kind of interesting” 😂😂😂

Quinn, I see that there are already 225 comments on your presentation. I wanted to give you a tip that will assist in preventing drill bit spin. It is especially valuable when using Silver & Deming bits. There are three holes in the chuck. Each hole should be used to torque down the jaw on the bit. Enjoy your videos.

Love the video! One thought: given that the OD is oversize (and the benefit of hindsight), when clamping in the 4-jaw could file or hack a flat (or angled-in) surface to clamp the 4th jaw onto.

11:37 "Now boring is kinda interesting". I'll take it!

Great, Blondie

Very nice good job 😃 👌

Good job

Fusion 360 should also tell you the center of mass of the entire component. Based on how far from the center axis (and in which direction) that center is you can use some maths to determine how much to remove and from where with out having to iteratively guess. If you do your maths right, it'll put the center of mass directly inline with the axis of rotation and eliminate any eccentric oscillation (atleast in free rotation). You may need to counter balance with more weight opposite the cutting side to compensate for the force of the cutting edge striking the workpart, but that would be heavily dependent on cutting tool stickout and workpart material.

Great channel! Just discovered it.

Great Quinn-structions.

I made one of these in high school

You know the make fly swatters pretty cheap... lol Seems you are taking this simple fly cutter to a hole new level. And while that may be a good thing, I am not sure it is totally needed. But if you have the equipment, do what you like. It is your project after all. Thumbs Up!

Thoroughly enjoyed that. A very nifty design! I often hold drills in a collet chuck to prevent them spinning in the tailstock. One thing I did notice was that your centre drill lifted a little; tailstock not clamped? To rough out a flat bottomed hole it is possible to use a slot drill (centre cutting end mill) in the tailstock chuck.

You always give the spotlight to parallels!! When are you going to give the other shapes their time on stage!! You should go to the mill, and position your work on a trapezoid or something!!

Thank you! Thank You! THANK YOU, for not making the same old boring boring jokes!! From the moment that I realized that you intended to bore something, I resolved myself to being bombarded with all of the same old lame old clichés! I have definitely heard them all. I was getting ready for the old stand by: boring boring, up hill, both ways, in the snow, 6 days a week, and the preacher holds services in the same place on Sunday's, except you have to bore up hill, both ways, in the snow, in your good SUNDAYGOTOMEETING clothes, and the shoes that even after 12 older brothers and sisters (YES!! Even my sisters had to wear those shoes, even when the older boys were still wearing them, TOO! Talk about a machine fit!!), still aren't broke in good, and had no traction even when new (which was sometime just after humankind stop wrapping their feet in animal skins)!! Now, if you tilted your head back in some serious laughter, after reading that boring....ohhhh, you get the picture!! ;-P)-----

Fascinating stuff. I very much enjoy these projects, sprinkled in with my journey through the lathe and mill series. Was wondering: will you be doing your own flavor of a high speed steel tool sharpening tutorial at some point? I'd be interested in seeing how you describe it. Many thanks and great work as always. (Oh, by the way, your junk piles are way too neat and orderly. How on earth do you find anything?)

I only have a little experience on mills and lathes so please forgive me if this is a silly question. Instead of machining the entire fly cutter body into a wedge wouldn't it be easier to just leave it round and only machine the HSS slot at an angle? You could use a small end mill to plunge cut flat surfaces where the set screws will go, center drill the flats, then proceed as normal. It would result in a heavier fly cutter but I would think it would help with balance.

Me: Quinn is very good with technical work and explanations, but can she engage the KZfaq audience? Quinn: Tippy tippy tap Me: This woman is a genius!

Muito bom

Hey Quinn, what's the difference between the shell mill vs. the fly cutter? Seems like they produce the same results? Love learning from your vids!!!

3-jaw tip... Once you find the best jaw placement, witness mark the slot to the number on the jaw. (or both if the jaw isn't numbered.)

I do love your commentary. Glad your foot wasn't under the chuck of steel, that would have left a mark. As always a great video. Thank you...Vic

Hello ...AvE sent me over. Looks like a nice channel you got here, I might have to stick around for a bit.

would an alternative be to use a 4 jaw chuck and face the material in the lathe? I'm all in on using a fly cutter... just wondering if lathe could also be used for this thing.

New subscriber here.. Love your channel.. Great Content!!

I just discovered your channel a month or so ago, and I've been making my way through your videos since then. I dont know anything about machining, but maybe that's why I love your content so much: you are excellent at explaining things, you show your mistakes and use them as a chance to demonstrate how to overcome them, and nothing seems out of the reach of any aspiring hobby machinist. That said, this one confused me a bit. Why did it matter so much how precisely deep the hole for the arbor was? All I could think was, so there would be enough depth to get a good grip on the arbor shaft, but then why not drill all the way through for even more grip?

Please do return and show us the completion - I will definitely be making this to your spec!

I'm not sure if it's on all versions of Fusion 360, but check the inspect menu for a tool that shows you exactly where the center of gravity is.

Good content, liked the jokes.

What model lathe are you using?

Good & well explained video as always Quinn. Something a lot don't realize is that rust is a rudimentary form of carbides and much harder than the parent metal it came from. With our usual home shop pack rat syndrome a lot of us end up machining rusty scrap metal. That rust just like the hardened skin on cast iron, abrasive dust off grinding stones or emery paper can get embedded in the much softer slide and bottom surfaces of the carriage ways. Even with a hardened bed those other surfaces are still soft. Add the normal oil that should be always there and you end up with an excellent lapping and way scoring compound. Once the material does get embedded it's about impossible to remove short of re-grinding or hand scraping it away. The cheapest aluminum foil for the kitchen you can find works well to wrap the exposed lathe parts to catch and protect the machine until your down to clean metal and the whole works can then be thrown away. I'll usually wire wheel the majority of the rust off first, add a coat of any heavy oil to the remaining surface rust to keep any dust from going air borne until it's all removed. A bit of historical machining trivia. While the equipment was/is mostly used on rare and expensive hardwoods such as African black wood and before the bans Elephant ivory. The Ornamental Turning lathes were also sometimes used on metal. Quite rare even for that equipment, they made what was called an Oblique Chuck to hold and machine work with it's face angled to the lathes head stock rotation. Almost any shape you can visualize was held and machined by mechanical methods they developed over hundreds of years. I've picked up a fair amount of information about complex multi axis work holding and machining from some of the Ornamental Turning books I've bought. Likely one of the most modern and cheapest to find for a used copy would be T.D. Walshaw's Ornamental Turning. ISBN 1 85486 108 5. It's mostly about using the usual home sized metal lathe, or in his case a Myford as a replacement for the now rare and super expensive original ornamental lathes. Even with no interest in the subject his details about the use of a standard boring head are worth the price of the book alone. There an extremely powerful and versatile accessory that can do far more than just bore holes. Single tooth fly cutters with a vast range of tooth shapes were also used a great deal in that work. He also shows how all of the tools were precision lapped to obtain the best possible tool sharpness using a fairly simple Goniostat and fine stones www.google.com/search?q=goniostat&client=firefox-b-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDrOjTqPnjAhWRvZ4KHeWYBcQQ_AUIESgB&biw=1600&bih=763&dpr=1.2 What worked in those dense hard woods and ivory can be applied or modified to be used with metal. It's also a dark, very long, extremely time consuming and expensive rabbit hole to go down for anyone making the life altering mistake of developing an interest in ornamental turning.:-)

some chucks have reversible jaws, the teeth engaging the scroll are curved on both sides

Tappy Tap Tap !

So many times on KZfaq I see people running way to fast when parting off. Also nice to see that you know how to properly use a ratchet thimble micrometer. I cringe when I see it just get ratcheted down. People don't realize that it is like an impact wrench and that you are not getting an accurate read. I was a production machinist for several years. And went to school for machining. But it is refreshing to watch your videos even though I know most of what you are saying. I can't wait to get my channel started. How did you learn machining?

Thanks for sharing. Out of curiousity, why is it so hard to actually drill on center? In most videos when people use center drills etc they always seem to shift off of center? Am i seeing this wrong or is this a common issue? if so what are your recommendations for fixing? It happens at 5:00 in your video for reference.

4:58 Total n00b question here (haven't even got a lathe yet!), the center drill appears to kick off to the left when it touches the workpiece, isn't this a problem?

Being a new subscriber, I find your presentation is excellent....were you a teacher previous life....do you have formal machinist training....like the fact you include your mistakes....videos excellent!

I thought is was called a fly cutter because the chips fly all over the shop.

What influenced your decision to go with 10° ? Having done a bit of research, it seems that there is no standard angle, so people have used everything between 10 and 45° with 12 and 15 being popular. Cheers :-)

P.S. I usually squish any fly I can get close enough to hit with something.

I'm surprised that you have not yet built a center drill holder great video though congratulations

Quinn , what's happening at 5:02 where the center drill is walking? Is the facing not 'perfect' or was something else amiss? Thanks.