You did a great job on this video. All these arm chair quarter backs with their comments only have the ability to make the comments because you took the initiative to do the project. Nice job. Thank you

This is what I used on my 12,000 watt generator, was worth every penny I paid, and it cut noise output by better than 50%. It sits on a concrete pad I poured specifically for the generator, with a piece of rubber on top of the slab (made from an old pickup truck bed liner. I built a roof over the generator out of corrugated fiberglass roofing material that is attached to two pieces of 2 X 2 tap coned to the building with a angle cut 2 X 2 attached to the free side of the roof back on a 45 degree angle to the building attached again using tap con’s. I also bolted the generator frame to the slab with 2 - 1” EMT conduit securing brackets, w lead shields into the concrete using security bolts. (Making it harder for someone to steal.) To further lesson noise emitted I attached 1” rigid foam board to a couple pieces of exterior grade plywood and made a free standing “L” Shaped wall 4’ high for both sides of the generator open to the yard, which I can place about 3’ away from the generator as a noise shield. The generator is placed in a corner of the house, so two sides are facing towards the block wall. Located about 75’ from the road. When running at full load the generator cannot be heard from the road. In a SHTF situation you need to make your generator as inconspicuous as possible as you do not want to attract thieves. It’s also a good idea to place a person as a sentinel who is armed standing guard in the event someone comes skulking around. I’ve made it almost impossible to steal it having bolted it to the slab, the generator also weighs in at 217 pounds so it would take two guys to lift it into the back of a pickup, after somehow removing the bolts securing it to the concrete slab. I’m contemplating adding a box fan as supplemental cooling. gensilencer.com/

Another thing you might not know about. I do fire suppression in commercial buildings and they make a caulk that is called fire stop or some say fire caulk and it has a very high temperature rating and it would actually be a good sealant for joints like your exhaust flexible pipe. It has to get up to close to a thousand degrees before it degrades and even still we'll seal I used it personally on a joint on my wood stove flu pipe and it's awesome 😎

Great job and here's a tip, drill your flange holes first so there is plenty to clamp on to, then cut it. It will be a lot easier.

Great job. However, I would caution users to make the rigid pipe portion as short as humanly possible. If you extend the slender exhaust from the muffler any appreciable distance, it will create non-trivial back pressure if the diameter of the pipe is not vastly increased. I do not have the software necessary to simulate it, so I arbitrarily used a 2 in flexible exhaust repair section, then transition to a 4-in semi rigid aluminum dryer duct. You may wish to use an insulated furnace pipe thimble, when your pipe passes through your structure. Keep up the great work!

Real nice job on the shed build. I just came across your channel, so that’s the reason for the late response. Quite a few of the questions asked we’re about adding a muffler to the exhaust pipe that you fabricated. Mufflers are available made specifically for generators, as opposed to using a auto muffler. While a muffler will help with reducing the sound, a significant amount of the sound actually emanates from the vibration when the generator is placed on a hard surface. A rubber mat of some type would help significantly in that respect. Hopefully with these two additions it might just keep the grumpy neighbors happy.

This video was exactly what I needed! Thank you for posting this.

Great, simple (and brilliant) solution!

I like the way you made that part to attach to the exhaust flange. But you may want to keep in mind that your generator will be vibrating, and that long piece of pipe will also be vibrating. The flexible pipe will be a better option for you, because the long pipe will put stress on the connection that you just made, and break something on the generator, because the pipe is not the weakest link in that chain. That is why there are rubber motor mounts on this generator, and on most vehicles, there are flexible couplings on the exhaust that allow the engine to flex/vibrate and the exhaust to flex on its own. So only have a 2-3 inch piece of hard pipe, then use your flexible hose/pipe. Also, don't forget to use a piece of metal or some other piece of fire proof material where the exhaust exits the dog house wall.

Thank you for making this video. Your solutions were brilliant...yet straightforward and simple. Well done! Cheers!

Great idea. I like how it’s not permanent. Thank you

Awesome video thanks that's what I needed to help complete my generator shed and I hope to see more just like it

well thought out and a nice solution. Thanks for sharing!

Brilliant idea man. Thanks for sharing!!!🔥

SWEET. Thanks for making this video!

Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. I have also made portable generator extensions and wanted to pass on my experiences. Connecting a solid pipe directly to the generator muffler has always failed for me due to vibration and metal fatigue. The pipe connecting to the muffler must be a flexible type and as light as possible. When the engine is running, there is considerable movement of the engine due to it being a large single cylinder. The flexible pipes I have found the best are the types used in front wheel drive cars, that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. That silicone gasket maker has a maximum temperature rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit but, with the engine running under load, I have seen the muffler reach 1,000 (glowing red) degrees with the engine under heavy load. I would instead, file the floor flange and muffler connection flat so they don't leak or, purchase some automotive exhaust gasket material and make my own. I would also recommend leaving the spark arrestor out of a modified exhaust system since the added pipe can easily add back pressure, reducing engine power.

Hello my friend, I read that one of the viewers before me said this was a brilliant video. I agree you did a great job of bringing this to the public. Stay thirsty my friend

Good job, I like that you can easily unscrew the pipe.

Great video. Your ideas helped me out!

Excellent how to video! Well done!

Really nice job of explaiining each step.

I used the same flange for a Predator generator. To avoid cracking the flange from the vibration, I had to use pipe hangers to hold an support the pipe an extra muffler to quiet unit. An wrapped entire pipe an muffler in header wrapping.

Thank you.... Simple, well done, effective and informative. Great video

Thanks for the vid. Nice to know it’s possible and can be done safely.

Great solution , I am building a generator shed now and I will use your exhaust system idea .

Nicely done!! I was thinking about doing this myself.

Great idea, gave me some insight for my application 😉

I modified my exhaust with a removable stack. Nothing fancy, a stub and five foot thin wall fence pipe held together with two tap screws. The bottom of the tall piece just touches the ground and is not capped. Makes big difference in noise level.

Excellent and instructional video. Keep it up

very nice job on the adapter. Pro tip, it would help if you drilled the holes first it would be a little safer due to more meat to hold on to.

Another excellent video of yours. Thanks

Solid engineering, Great plan

Great video! Only comment I'd suggest drilling you holes prior to cutting the floor flange so you have more material for clamping force so it doesn't move around as much while drilling.

Thank you buddy, excellent idea

Excellent how to video!

Thumbs up 👍 as others have said Generators vibrates and short is way better for longevity.

Nicely done. Simple and fairly cheap. Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊

Awesome, good info. Thanks for showing this. 👊👊👍👍

5:00 time. Right. Glasses (i use wrap around ones, sealing all) and gloves, AND a toque, over the ears, as well. shop jacket with good collar, too. GOOD FOR YOU, SIR......nice touch, that floor flange, good creative analyzing !!

Excellent idea. I'm b Putting my champion 4550-3450 gas generator in my van while powering up my travel trailer

Thank you for sharing and caring! Much more affordable than the kits!

The flex isn't optional. You MUST use the flex on the exhaust. All of the vibration from the engine running, will eventually crack and damage your muffler/flange.

Awesome video thanks for sharing

Thanks! Good video.

Thank a lot for this video, you help me out. This is the idea that I was looking for. Thanks again. GBY

Well done buddy

Thanks for the video and nice job.

Very nice neat solution - thanks!

Great video, brilliant idea!

Thanks for the video. What type of blade did you use in your cut-off saw/grinder?

Brilliant

Great video. Good job.

Wow very good knowledge

Great idea👍

Well done sir

well done

It be nice if you could attach a walker, quiet flow turbo muffler on there with the smallest diameter that might fit on there so all the sudden you might be able to kill 12 dB maybe even 20

Great video! I can stop pulling my hair out now, my exhaust issue is fixed!

Great video! Thank You So Very Much for making and posting this Awesome video! it Realy helped me exhaust my genny. :)

So this is the correct way to do it 🤙, I ripped exhaust pipe and muffler off a old Toyota I had sitting in my yard worked good nuff lol, this is much better

well done. Any idea how far you can throw the exhaust? This generator was put near the house and the exhaust points towards the house. Thanks much

Awesome 👌 👍

This is the easiest one I have seen. Thank you. Is it possible to attach a longer pipe without any issues?

this be really helpful for blackout or zombie apocplyes

Looks like you did a great job and I love it. But I would have made a gasket that was made from high temperature. Fiber material I don't know what it's called, not asbestos but something like that other than the silicone sealants. Because the silicone sealant will not take the heat in the long run, it will get hard and brittle and powdery and leak and also unrelated RTV sealant that turns into rubber isn't even good for water applications like thermostat, housings and such. I like the brown or the black permatex seems to be good stuff

Thank you, I just finished doing exactly like you suggested.

Nice job. Are you making a video on how you are putting together your shed as well?

Great video. Not having a grinder or any other metal cutting tool, is there any other kind of flange (thinner) I could use for the template?

I love the exhaust idea. Have you ever used exhaust tape to wrap the piping?

Hello and thanks for the video.. I only have one question: what size is the flex tube that goes over the galvanized one inch pipe?

Excellent video. Thanks. A question: would it be ok to put another gasket between the spark arrestor plate and the muffler plate? It seems to me that that would be a leak danger with the bare metals facing.

Youre the best

Thank you for the video, now I can keep my generator inside the garage while running, last storm I left my previous gen it was stolen. A $3k winco!

I have used this on numerous generators, if you have a long piece of pipe support the end.

Very good video. Beats spending hours to maybe find someone who made an adapter on Ebay costing s small fortune. One comment about your sealant. The Permatex Max Temperature Gasket Maker is only good up to 750°F. The Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer is good up to 2000°F

Thank You for this video☝️🙂 I was reading the comments Looking for something what I'd like to know: Is okay if I connect a short 90 degrees elbow? or must be wide curve? I have no enough room 😭 I'm afraid the heat going to make a hole in the elbow if I use a short 90 degrees ☝️ What you recommend me?🤔

I would put the flex pipe over the ridge pipe to insulate from kids touching it. Also, I would use some type of pipe dope at the threads, to seal and easier disassemble if needed

Great job bro! Super way to engineer the extension flange....does the extension change the exhaust sound coming out of the muffler? does it sound like a go cart running wide open or helps quieten even more? would it be possible to add a reducing coupler on end of extension and add muffler (if needed)?

Why not put an elbow on the exterior of the pipe to point downwards preventing rain from entering? Cap it to prevent bugs from nesting inside with a screen on the attachment side of the elbow opening or the elbow opening itself facing downward. A screen around the wall exit point would help too. Create a flange on the wall interior for the pipe to exit through. We have a lot of wasps in my area and that open pipe without a screen would be an invitation for them to nest in.

The pipe has a significant weight and a long lever, the engine oscillates during operation, and as a result the weld on the exhaust pipe is subjected to extreme loads. In practice: How long can the weld seam withstand this load without tearing? I believe a flexible connection at the exhaust reduces the stress considerably.

After installing the exhaust extension, is it possible to connect a muffler or sound reducing attachment?

Nice job god blesd

Will the exhaust leak around those threads where the pipe enters the floor flange?

Copper based anti-seize would help in any disassembly later on

Hi, your advice on connecting wire to T1 for charging battery works great, thanks. Now Two wire setup. I do have one wire in J1 #10 and in J 2 # 18, in dealer menu program YES to two wire program. When l take those two wire together generator will no start, not working. I am so frustrated with this and l hope you can give me some advice to get this working. Again, many thanks George

I did as you explained and exit my exhaust out of the shed. MY CO2 SENSOR KEEPS TRIPING AND SHUT DOWN UNIT. HAVE TWO BOX FANS ACCROSS UNIT. ANY SUGGESTIONS.

If I was going to make a genshed I would run the exhaust out a 10' high stack with a rain cap. Probably want a low point in the pipe with a drain hole in case some rain gets in. Rain caps can be a little aggravating going tinktinktink but if it's a small diameter pipe and the generator is running wide open it shouldn't rattle. I'm thinking if the exhaust is exiting straight up it will be quieter

Pretty cool ideas. Can you show us this generator shed that your making? Looks like I might be able to add a muffler / silencer to quiet the beast generator from your contraption. Thanks.

Good video.!!!

size up to 1-1/4 and use a brass or steel hose barb into the flex, and make or buy a thicker high temp gasket possible to dampen harmonics

What about air intake when you have the generator in a shed? A typical wood shed will have small vents in the roof gables, is this sufficient to allow enough air flow for the generator to run properly?

Is it possible to feed the exhaust pipe into a large container of water to make it quieter? Would there be back pressure issues?

I would have just drilled the holes in the floor flange. All the other cutting is unnecessary. It did look nice though.

When you replaced the bolts with longer ones, what size bolts did you use?

electrcal conduit is lighter than galvanized plumbing pipe. Connections are easier, and widely curving 90 degree bent pipe is available to send exhaust up a pipe to the roof without loss of power due to the tight 90 degree elbows of a plumbing pipe.

Looks good. If using the flex tubing, rather than cutting the pipe, I'd just buy a shorter pipe to begin with. LOL

I was wondering how I was gonna vent my new predators 9000 know I gotta get busy thank you

go 6 inches , then increase size to 1 1/2""

Maybe I missed you speaking about it but that looks like galvanized pipe. If that pipe gets hot enough you can burn off the galvanization and release poisonous fumes.

Would I need to put Teflon tape or some other thread sealant on the pipe threads were it threads into the adapter? Would there be any advantage to use a thread increaser to make the pipe larger? Would that reduce the back pressure from the pipe/tubing? What sort of muffler would I use to achieve the best, in your opinion, performance and quieting of the exhaust system? Would it do me any good to mount the muffler inside the enclosure, with it's exhaust port extended to outside the shed, to reduce the sounds coming from the muffler shell? What would you think is the best way to protect the generator from theft?