awesome if I get some homedepot slant fin hydronic baseboads is this exchanger works for some efficiency

MrAmoslemi Yea they can be tough to find. But, you can easily find the coupling online. I am really surprised that Lowes does not.

The big box home stores have been getting away from copper products due to price and convenience of use of alternatives. In the past I have hooked up dishwashers and incoming lines for sinks and toilets with copper. These days people just do not do that. The products offered at the stores reflects that. Galvanized pipe is also way too pricey now. Much of this is reflected in the wicked price of new homes.

Nyuad Bms Thanks.

plumboogle.com/plumboogle-plumbing/how-to-make-a-hybrid-heat-exchanger the full list can be found here along with some other specs. Thanks for watching.RTP

***** Go and check my all copper design, i would go with that. with 80°C, I would not use any plastic. Thanks for watching.

When you reduce the size of the copper pipe, you are reducing the amount of surface area for heat transfer. You may need to make the exchanger longer or bank a couple of them together. I should have a video on banking within a couple of weeks. I am also making a video on slowing down the fluids and using fins to increase heat transfer. Thanks for watching! RTP

Rob The Plumber I see. I like the bank idea. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks for the quick response! Cheers

Rob The Plumber Great videos Rob! Thanks for sharing and making it possible for us DIY's to make small changes that potentially can make a big difference when it is open source :-) Is there a video on slowing down fluids? Does it make any difference on heat efficiency (with slowing inside PVC pipe) if the hot water is pumped inside the copper tube instead of in the PVC pipe? Good point about better insulation in outer PVC pipe. Copper pipe in copper pipe doesn't make much sense with the heat loss to the outside...

@@RobThePlumber You may want to check this. Smaller copper pipe will increase the surface area per volume inside copper. Super cool idea (pun intended). I may try this for my boat project. Thanks for the inspiration!

MrAmoslemi You just need to purchase the right MJ clamp. You need to buy a 1-1/2 MJ x Copper coupling.

Yes it is the waste water flowing through the middle pipe. Never made part 2. working on revamping the channel. there will be a part 2 then.

Andy Morel I have had a similar exchanger in use for over two years now. No issues to report. As long as you build it exactly as shown there will be no issues. Shower drain size is 1-1/2" min. Keep it that way. Thanks for watching.

MJ couplings are not rated for pressure applications. they are gravity drain only

@@RobThePlumber How much electricity have you saved after installing these?

(AIO water cooling solutions exist now)

Thermal plates they get cold on one side and hot on the other

You are also talking different pressures. You would always have more pressure in your potable water. So if you had a pin hole the waste would not make into the higher pressure zone.

the potable pressure would be much higher. yes you're mixing. and yes it's a health risk. but you'd likely just waste a ton of water and never know till your bill came. lol

Matthew Kahler a

Sangram Ghorpade you want cooler air entering an engine. Not warmer. Warmer air is less dense and therefore less effiicient . Same with fuel.

...and choke regulators, and on airplanes for de-icing, but he didn't say that it was for warm up, so I didn't assume.

make it 10 feet long :-)

Something like negligible. And making it longer would barely even help.

Karwuay rap

buddysjr serpenting

These days it is quite crowded under the hood but many a country boy has heated his lunch by placing a can (with the lid punctured) on top of the exhaust manifold of his truck or car. If one picked up some quarter inch copper tubing and coiled it around his exhaust system and pumped cold water through the coil it absolutely could bring the temperature of that water up to boiling.. However in modern cars there are so many electronic sensors that the information the car computer gets may cause unexpected consequences.

Not very effective

+Ginary Catalina Cuervo Neira - What a insightful question. Luckily there is a video at the top of this page that can answer it.

As I agree with most of your comments, I must say your giving too much thought to this very basic exchanger. Your ratios mean nothing without knowing what the temperature of the fluids are and knowing how much of that temperature you need to transfer from one fluid to another. You also need to take into consideration of fluid velocities, pressures and viscosities. This exchanger was meant to show that you can make an exchanger with basic easy to find materials. This is not to be used with anything warmer than domestic hot water temperatures. ie.* capturing temperature from waste water from a shower and transferring to cold water feeding a hot water tank* There is nothing wrong with making the outside chamber out of copper! That is what simple pipe insulation is for.Also if you are going to go to the extreme of sizing an exchanger for efficiency,this is definitely not the proper design needed. The copper was roughed up, but in my design I use there is a copper fin, in a spiral that is brazed to the copper transfer tube. There is no way to slow the hot waste in the centre pipe without risking drainage and venting problems. In any heat exchanger fluids ALWAYS run in the opposite direction. I show that in the video.... I have quite a few videos to release on different exchangers and the sizing of them. It is unfortunate, work has been hectic and I cannot release as many as I would like to. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

I see your point, I recently just finished writing my dissertation as well as a patent application for a new type of heat exchanger which has a very advanced design, so I am still in the mind set of achieving ultimate efficiency in design. But like I said this design will work, but it could be greatly improved if a few hours were spent running some numbers, and I think you should emphasise this more to the viewers, you could probably even do a few extra videos on how to run the numbers, for this application a simple dittus boelter equation would work fine for both the tube and the annulus. It was an interesting video however, quite a novel approach which I like, I will watch some more videos once i have some free time. Also, fluids do not ALWAYS flow in opposite direction in a HX, its completely dependant on the application, as you are recovering waste heat, then yes, you would want a counterflow arrangement as it will capture the most thermal energy. Just because the outside of the copper pipe is lagged doesn't mean you are not losing heat from it, so using low thermal conductivity materials for the outer later and then using insulation also, will improve this.

​@@evo1empire what can I use inside the inner copper pipe to heat my pool water entering the outer chamber? I'm assuming that just heating the empty pipe with a fire isn't the best, but I'm worried that heating a liquid in the copper pipe in a closed loop could explode.... Thoughts?

LOL; i know you're being sarcastic,rightfully so; DANGER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Does not work for ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! people shd look up"shell and tube heat exchanger"!!!!!!!! you need LOTS LOTS of SMALL tubes in the CORE!!!!

+Efrain Hurtado To exchange temperature between two liquids.

beyond any residential application

Tyler Lowden, at 70°F that is true, however PVC loses strength very rapidly as temperature rises and at 140°F the strength is only 22% of the rated pressure capacity. I have seen PVC pipes squirm in buildings at 90°F and joints separate at 100°F when operating at 1/3 of their maximum rated pressure. The derating charts are easily found on the Internet. One other thing; make sure you are using Sch (Schedule) 40 or 80 pipe. Hardware and big box stores sell cellular PVC for drain purposes and they are NOT designed for any pressure.

There are several types of PVC, all have different pressure ratings. Some states do not allow PVC for hot water as health concerns are involved. PVC products fail in unusual ways. Most don't handle sunlight well. I would avoid PVC for any experimental uses or critical situations if failure occurs.

kiffertom I see what your saying but you would be breaking the plumbing code by slowing down or reducing the shower drain size. It would work short term but in the long term your drain would get clogged up pretty quick.

For reference, if you go from a smaller size tube to a larger size, the water will slow down and heat transfer will be more efficient. Try that for both lines.

+Rob The Plumber Hello, thank's. Can you imagine Heat exchangerconnected to solar can heater ? (for solar fridge or clim'). Seen something like that in africa for fridge, but dont find it again.. Good winter.