I made a super sharp Mini Katana with simple tools
#katana #minikatana
Detailed description below.
Drawings used in the video :-drive.google.com/drive/folder...
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My camera
A6400 :- amzn.to/2Ks2bKl
Lens I am using
Sigma 30mm F1.4 :- amzn.to/2VP9TDM
Sigma 16mm F1.4 :- amzn.to/2XXFlSY
Tools
Cordless Drill Driver :- amzn.to/2WTfcnl
Dremel :- amzn.to/3gbuPhw
Dremel Chuck :- amzn.to/3cUE4k4
Small hacksaw :- amzn.to/36pUoqH
Hello everyone welcome to an another video. In this video we are going to make a mini katana. Normally the katana is forged but here, since it is small I am making it by stock removal process. a 1.2 mm thick sheet of high carbon steel is used as stock. Rough shape of the katana is cut using a coping saw and then a file is used to finish it. Hole for the bamboo peg (Mekugi) is drilled using a 1 mm drill bit. Length of the blade is 101 mm and the scale of the katana is 1 : 7.3. For cutting bevel I am using a home made jig where I can control the angle of the bevel. Then the blade is finished using 150 grit sandpaper for heat treatment. My plan was to create hamon in the blade.
Heat Treatment and Hamon: - Hamon, literally "blade pattern" is a visual effect created on the blade by the hardening process. The hamon is the outline of the hardened zone (yakiba) which contains the cutting edge (ha). This difference in hardness results from clay being applied on the blade (tsuchioki) prior to the cooling process (quenching). Less or no clay allows the edge to cool faster, making it harder but more brittle, while more clay allows the center (hira) and spine to cool slower, thus retaining its resilience (Source: - Wikipedia)
Hamon clay ingredients: - 2 part rock powder + 2 part clay + 2 part charcoal powder + 1 part rust
Rock powder: - Ground fine sand, silt, or polishing stone powder provides a filler that will counteract the tendency of clay to shrink and crack as it dries.
Clay: - The partially dried clay before pulverizing. Clay sticks the ingredients together and onto the blade.
Charcoal: - Powdered charcoal being reduced to dust. Charcoal provides some micro pores as it burns out, allowing for some heat expansion and also affecting cooling time.
Rust: - In this case, fine steel filings and powdered iron oxide provide some thermal mass and make up part of the non-shrinking filler material.
(Read more here about heat treatment, Source: - islandblacksmith.ca/process/ya... )
But I failed in creating a hamon because of the following reasons
1- Very thin blade
2- Not enough thick clay coating
Next time I will try to fine tune making hamon for a small blade.
After hardening the blade I have tempered the blade by heating it to 200 degree Celsius for two hours(I didn't show it in the video). Then the katana is finished using sandpaper 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 & 5000 grit progressively(This also I didn't show in the video since it might be boring).
Habaki or Ferrule - Habaki is made from brass. The purpose of the habaki is to absorb the shock from the katana blade and also to make a seal in the scabbard mouth. Habaki is cold forged from a brass piece with following dimensions ID - 5 mm, OD 3 - mm, length 5 - mm. I am using the first trial blade to forge the Habaki. Brass has to be annealed in between to avoid cracks. Then it's finished using file and sandpaper.
Seppa or Spacer - Spacer is made from 0.1 mm thick brass sheet and its purpose is to take the clearance and make a perfect fit. I made a punch to make the center hole and profile is cut using scissors.
Tsuba or hand guard - This is also made from brass. Profile is cut using a coping saw and finished using Dermal.
Tsuka or Grip - This is made from wood, covered with paracord cover. For wrapping I have tried many threads and I couldn't find one. Then later at night while brushing teeth I found the floss is perfect for the handle wrapping.
Kashira or End cap - Kashira is formed using a small die that is made. This is also made from brass and the sheet thickness is 0.4 mm.
Mekugi or peg - Made from brass and helps to keep all the katana parts together.
Rest of the processes are self explanatory and I am going over the letter count here, any doubts please ask in the comments.