The spokes are cast aluminium and an original set from a car.

It is a good bit of kit, I use it most days. It's only down fall really is that it won't handle a particularly heavy pass on wide stock and the sanding drums will often stop. Almost all of what I put through it is American white oak and if you try to take off more than about 0.5mm on a 400mm wide board it doesn't like it. I am running it with 80g on the first roller and 120g on the second but have put 40g on the first roller before now which will remove a bit more stock. If you need to take quite heavy passes then I would guess a belt sander might be a better route. I went for this machine over a wide belt sander because I couldn't find one that was a compact size!

I know it's a year later, but what are you talking about? These tools weren't purchased just to make a steering wheel, this is a working wood shop. You amortize the tools over years of hundreds of projects. Replacement sanding belts, and router bits are fairly inexpensive and last over many projects. I don't know about the metal spoke part, but the mahogany wheel probably cost $10 bucks plus his labor

@@CaptainRon1913 Hi ! Don't mind my bitter sarcasm, it just mirrors my jealousy ! If I had a fraction of his workshop I'd be happier than a pig in mud, if you know what I mean. I just love seeing this level of work. Thanks for the reply and have a great day !

The planer thicknesser is the FM24 model (1960's era) and the table/panel saw is an SP12.

Thanks! In all honesty I've never done a job where I thought I might need one. It's all been pretty small stuff so I get by with a router table. Never say never though!

They certainly make it easier although sometimes I still do them the old school way depending on the style. Cost depends on the type of wheel and process for making the rim. If you want to get in touch via email@danleeboatbuilding,co.uk I can let you know.

Thanks for the Fusion tip, I'm learning stuff in it all the time and still have LONG way to go! Yes they are Spektra bits, I've got on ok with them but haven't tried much else for comparison. The three flute 3/8" bit scares the hell out of me running it at its specified feed rate, it's a bit too aggressive for my machine really. I'm still learning about tooling and feed rates etc as well as there is lots to learn. What is your preference of tooling for woodwork?

​@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Nice of you to answer Dan! There are so many way's you can work in Fusion, and as long as you get where you want it's more than OK. I'm struggling with it from time to time, and with complex assemblies i always find myself rebuilding it for a 2nd or a 3rd time. There are some base-elements you'll have to follow in order to make an entire assembly from multiple parts. For my furniture i also like to use mapboards btw. (it lays an entire design flat, somewhat nested, ready to be cut at a specified sheet-size). You know your machine the best. You can calculate how much spindle-power you'd need, that gives you a nice figure. 3 flutes in that size requires some authority in machining.. ;) With MDF you can go FAST. especially when aiming for a .5-.6mm feed per tooth. Running a 12mm 2 flute cutter at 14000rpm already results in 16m/min of movement. I have most of my cutters custom-cut, and some (3 flute roughers in 8 and 12mm) coated with DLC. i'm running 25mm birch plywood in 1 take at 12-14m/min at 14000rpm. (i mainly cut birch plywood, solid oak, walnut, beech and maple). I guess my favourite tools are down-cutters and compression cutters. And a roughing 3 flute down-cutter (it's using some chip-breakers at different heights to avoid a fuzzy finish on the wood) And an indexable 90 degree/ 91 degree cutter for cutting miters. they run smooth too! Are you from the UK? Scosarg has a nice CMT 91 degree cutter for not too much money. It requires a 20mm collet.

Yeah I know what you mean, I like the fact it sort of forces you to work properly in order for things to work right. I've started over a few times when a model just gets a bit "messy". Yes I'm in the UK, I've just had a look on Scosarg, I never realised they did so much tooling despite going there last year and they are at pretty sensible prices as well! I've not tried anything with chip breakers yet either. There is so much to learn with CNC, particularly when it comes to perfecting finishes and feed rates. It isn't just as straight forward as everyone (and me at first) thinks. I'd never heard of a 91 degree cutter before either, every day is a school day as they say!

I used Sapele, a modern Mahogany alternative basically. I didn't apply a finish as the customer is going to do that but it will probably be varnished.

@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Varnish cracks Ive had many wood wheels and varnish always cracks stick with oil

It is linked in the product description.

This was supplied by the customer that I was making the rim for. I think it was an eBay find.

I'm a classic car guy,, just wanted to share (it's a stock 1929 Plymouth steering wheel- metal center) 👌

I use Fusion 360 👍

Armação metálica

Yes, this one was for a customer.

No, these are an old original set. I have thought about getting some reproductions cast though.

I use Envato Elements for my music, its just a track called ambient background I think.

Dan Lee thanks! Great job on the videos and on all your beautiful boating projects. Keep up the great work!

It's actually a lot stronger than cutting from a single piece of wood as you have correct grain direction all the way round the wheel. A single piece would give weak spots top and bottom where the grain would run vertically.

@@DanLeeBoatbuilding But arent nardi wheels made from a single piece or sometimes a single top and bottom piece?

Maybe, there are lots of different ways of making them. Some have metal bar cores, some are wood sandwiching metal that is visible around the outside, some are steam bent and laminated as well. It's a process that has varied much over the years.

Just think about your bottom jaw hitting that at 40mph,, it actually needs to be a lil weak.. so it's not a death warrant. I have experience in that department. And can attest that this style of wheel well last a 60yrs if not more*

Laminated beams are joined like that, and they hold up buildings. The glue is stronger than the wood, and how much force will be applied to the wheel in a boat anyways?

If this wasn't a customers wheel I would challenge you to break it, I very much doubt you could. The originals of this era did not have metal cores in them.

@@DanLeeBoatbuilding You obviously don't understand the g-force behind hitting the breaks let alone an accident. Originals!...They didn't think about those type things back then just like they didn't think of seat belts, also car went slower depending how far back you go . Hot to cold weather will crack them up Hard sun will shrink them make them brittle I've owned probably a dozen different ones over the year this is coming from experience

@@hemidart7 you obviously don’t understand the end use application of this wheel. It’s not exactly going to be fitted to a M3 for street racing, this is a period wheel and as such will be fitted to a period vehicle. In this instance a 1920’s style boat and for that it will be more than fit for purpose.

I'd say your a little over on your valuation there but yes having the right tools makes it easier, you still have to know how to use them though!

And the skill required to build your business and reputation in order to purchase tools.