I respectfully disagree. Read the pinned comment, and the part about do this at your own risk. Showing an "expirement" with admitted issues is certainly not telling ppl to build copies of this and sell them....it is quite the opposite. In case you didn't watch to the end, you should also watch where I discuss this. This channel is about design and expirementation, and trying things that haven't been done before...I suppose you think Colin furze is telling everyone to go out and start a business building firework cannons in people's backyards?

It’s simple enough to make it without the epoxy, why not use the origin to cut out a piece of white acrylic that will inlay into the cut out made for the led’s? It will fit perfectly and you could easily figure a way to make it removable. Holes could be drilled to let heat out through the top of the light so no more issues there. It would essentially look the same but would function better and be easier and quicker to make.

@@fpoastro From the last 2 minutes i gather he made it unsafe on purpose so he can ask people to subscribe and wait for the improvements.

@Dozo G In the last two minutes I thought Mike was just thinking of new concepts to improve this project. Thanks for pointing out that he actually made a video with awful, unsafe plans only to get more subs. You are a genius! What a great marketing plan for a business. Do a shit job the first time only to convince your targeted demographic that you will do a better job next time! Shame on you Mike for being so manipulative... Shame on you.

@mike whipp you got me ;) with some people, you just can't win....fortunately I think it is the vocal minority :) I totally agree there are a lot of issues with this, and that is why I made it clear from the opening sentence that this was an EXPERIMENT, but, ya know, haters gonna hate.... :)

Perhaps gifts from Bombfell.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rp2moruBrJOriqM.html

That's what she said.

I was thinking that a lathe would be nice for the circle.

thanks Brad! Shaper is fun for sure...probably the easiest way to get into CNC since you don't even need a computer for a lot of things.

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZfaq: kzfaq.info

Thanks Matthew! Always happy to share the ups and downs so others can learn from my (many) blunders! :)

Thanks Jerry! Always happy to share my mistakes so others can learn from them!

Me too! I enjoyed the rest of the video, but that was actually my favourite part...

Yes, me to, thats why i adore this guy❤️

Thanks brother! Trying my best to make the sponsor reads entertaining!

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZfaq: kzfaq.info

Thanks Sam!

If I we're doing a permanent install, steel wire would be a must!

@@modustrial Thanks for the reply. Keep up the amazing work :)

Thanks Edward! I do my best to reply to all comments :)

Thanks Shaun! Yeah the side emitters are really cool for non-linear lighting. I linked to the only ones I saw on Amazon, but if you get em, check out AliExpress because they have some there that are 120 LEDs/m. (double the light output)

Thanks Bernie!

Hue color rendition suckkkks

Thanks much TJ!

Thanks Dave!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rp2moruBrJOriqM.html

Thanks for the kind words Mili!

Good idea! Getting the same pattern lined up correctly on the back would be tricky but probably is doable!

Since you’re not cutting a complete circle you could kill all the way through the slab to accomplish this. Right?

Yes, altho with an over 2" thick slab, that presents a different set of challenges

@@modustrial Keep the piece and the platform with the "domino tape" (didn't catch what you called it) in place thru each step of the process.

I actually didn't say....they just call it Shaper tape. That wouldnt work unfortunately since max cut depth for the Origin is 1.25", so you'd have to flip the slab over, which would throw everything off. I think you would need to drill a bunch of holes through bottom of the channel, flip it over, and then use a jigsaw or flush trim router bit to clean out the other side

Good idea!

Thanks much!

Thanks! Check out the setup I used in my cube video, it's super basic, but still gives really cool effects!

My shop is in the basement of my condo building, and I do electronics at my desk in my place....left the heat gun in the shop so it was 5 floors away. plus fire looks cool on film :) You could definitely do the epoxy pour that way, but would need to cut all the way through the slab then, which presents another set of challenges, altho I definitely think it's doable!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rp2moruBrJOriqM.html

elimiate the interior cavity so the epoxy pour is clear then dries , after the epoxy dries i would use say a filler piece that can go inside the cavity like a mold then Essentially the llight is not glued in . right tight no wires

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZfaq: kzfaq.info

Thanks man! I just hack my way through the LEDs, lol. probably my least favorite part of the making process, but the results make it worth the hassle!

Thanks!

Thanks much -- glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks! I'm definitely more concerned about heat/fire hazard in practice, than I am about the weight. Locust is a pretty light wood, similar to cedar. The pendant is probably 10 lbs or so, if I had to guess.

@davy kroket good idea!

@Davy Kroket good thought! And yes, got the email, it is flagged in my inbox for follow up soon :)

@@modustrial Another idea for consideration would be clear fishing line. I may try to do this myself and use enamelled copper wire to feed the low voltage to the fixture from a supply hidden in the ceiling void. The idea of a light fitting apparently just floating in mid air appeals to me. Obviously there might be issues with heat dissipation and also the current carrying capacity of thin enamelled wire.. but not insurmountable I would think

If you could somehow pass electrical current through clear wiring and create a floating light, that would be amazing....I'm not familiar with the material you are talking about. I'll have to do a little research on it

Good tip. Always up to learn and improve, and I'm a complete novice with hand tools, so I have much to learn :)

Thanks brother! And yea, the Shaper Origin is one pretty amazing tool!

Thanks Dan! Obviously, make note of the heat issues, and be careful with that :) Would love to see what you come up with!

Lol wrong? How do you figure? It's heat shrink. It doesn't care what you use just don't burn it. You're a "maker" not an electrician, clearly.

@@saltwaterrook4638 no he's right, every electrician and electronics tech would instinctively wince at using open flame to shrink heat shrink. granted we've all done it. but we know it's bad and we hate doing it over using a proper tool. and that's the thing though, the flame DOES burn the heat shrink no matter how fast and careful you are, and even if you can't really see it. in total it usually doesn't matter, but it's just not good.

@@saltwaterrook4638 You don't "burn" heat shrink. You apply steady heat to it until it shrinks. If you use a flame, you actually can cause the insulator on the wire to fail. I learned this in the Navy while doing electronics on aircraft.

@@jakewalters8482 no one said you're supposed to "burn" it did we? No. Heat is heat. If you're too inept to not burn using a flame, then that's on you. I have always used a small torch and haven't burned one since I was a kid. I only do it every week so what do i know? The only time i don't use a flame is if I'm working around combustibles or too close to an electronics board.

@@saltwaterrook4638 The material shrinks at a molecular level. It is designed to shrink in a specific heat range. The flame is far too hot, and can damage the jacket on the wires, and even the center conductor. If you're too dense accept that you're wrong, and trust the experience of licensed electronics technicians, then just shut up. I was just raised to do things the right way, and use the correct tools. It's never too late to learn, and accept correct advice.

DIY Satisfying Epoxy Resin Night Lamp | Wood Turning | Satisfying Videos - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e62ElJCI2by7dIk.html

I switched from Adobe and haven't looked back!

Technically, yes. The product is labeled and sold as opaque, but actually, it is not.

You may have "more opaque" and "less opaque" just as you have "opaque". Think of translucency as a percentage value, and opacity another, one being equal to 100% less the other. So that it is both somewhat transparent and somewhat opaque.

This is opaque. The contents (LED Light strip) can not be seen. If it was translucent you would be able to see the strip.

@@dougywilson2911 you are confusing"transparent" with "translucent".

@@dougywilson2911 Opaque means impenetrable to light.

Thanks Christian!

you can do it man! just get a chisel and watch a few videos on how to use it properly, and you can make it!

lol

Thank you! This is very doable with a standard router.

This is one case where it would actually be a tiny bit harder on a CNC router. The Shaper Origin uses a camera to align itself, and more importantly lets you see exactly where the cut is before you start. This makes it way easier than trying to line things up on a CNC, unless you have one of those lasers that draws the cut for you.. lol.. I don't have nor can I afford one, but you should really search "Shaper Origin" here in KZfaq and see what it can do. Then again, once you see it, you'll be as jealous as me.. :-)

Thanks! It's been (and continues to be) a fun learning process! I think I'm going to have 3 more lighting videos with different designs at this point

@@modustrial My suggestion above might be the solution? Feed 12v to the fixture, and locate the power supply remotely, possibly in a metal box in the ceiling void? Most of the purpose built PSU's for lighting are rated to be fully enclosed within a fixture anyway... but it could avoid the electronics showing on the finished item

A heat gun is about $15

And a standard router works as I showed, or you could even use hand chisels if you have the time and patience

"How do I make it?" That right there is a great question :) And completely up to you to find a way. That's part of the fun. Take a $10 jigzaw off of craigslist and do your BEST at building what he did..you may surprise yourself.

How about making it in two pieces, top and bottom 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Do the groove in the bottom piece with a scroll saw or carefully with a jig saw. most people have a jig saw. You could sand the sides with a small diameter drum sander in a drill press. It doesn't have to be precise anyway. Glue the top and bottom together. It can be made out of a piece of any kind of tree trunk. or any kind of wood. You can make any outside shape you want. Wulah Just an idea for Aykiz Genc

@@modustrial I have seen setups with a shop vac close to or above the wood to blow away the shavings. I think that might help if someone was using a standard to see more clearly.

Thanks man!

Thanks much!

Thanks for the detailed questions and thoughts! The lamp cord is all that is supporting it as it is. This was an experiment intended to see if the design concept would work, and how it would look, and is not something I'm planning to install on a permanent basis. The hanging mechanism is one of a number of things that would need to be addressed if someone wants to refine this design and install a light like this on a permanent basis. Your post is a great start on the considerations for hanging that someone trying to create a permanent installation. I'm giving this a 👍 so hopefully it will make it's way towards the top of the comments.

​@@modustrial Nice work, I love the modern/rustic design mix. May I suggest a practical solution could be to place the electronic controls in a fixture box mounted on the ceiling at the electrical junction box. This would keep the weight and profile down and the heat from the transformer away from the LED strips. A steel threaded conduit could then carry a low voltage wire to the fixture and supply adequate strength and mechanical fastening between the control box and the fixture.

Thanks @Steven Ozer ! The fixture box is a good idea, and likely what I'll use when I do electronics for the bigger version I'm working on.

@@modustrial Youre welcome. I think steel pipe like this goo.gl/images/BVBsdy would be both sturdy and attractive for suspending the fixture.

To solve the issue of the heavy weight, I usually use a stainless steel cabling attached to a ceiling rose.... remember to use the right thickness with enough tensile strength according to the load you have in your project.

Thanks! And gotta give credit to Jonny Builds for figuring that trick out... I just borrowed it :) just be careful if you have a large void cause the chisel can dig in more than you want (and Im not sure it would work on a really big area, like if doing a river table)

*sigh*

@@modustrial i like your project & can see where Mark W is coming from ... but, wondering, would it be possible to route/match both sides with your digital routing system?? ( route then epoxy, cure, flip over and route backside to match ( stopping at epoxy of course )? then you can install LEDs from top side, + heatsink them & its serviceable. plus you could install another string of ( dimmable ) warm LEDs to light above/ceiling in that slot...( or a string that you can adjust LED colors/flashing effects, etc, . . . for those parties! )... noice

@roboz starrr It would be really tricky to get everything lined up. Since the back doesn't have to be exact, I think you could drill thru a channel routed in one side with shaper, then roughly route out the other side with a handheld router to use aluminum and the technique you describe. I'll probably be doing something similar on the larger slab I'm working on.

I also understand where Mark is coming from, but I think you did show a technique that could be used just before resorting to the special tool. Speaking of, I didn't know that thing existed and it looks like it would be a great addition for our local makerspace.

@zarlus8 thanks! I try to show or a least discuss multiple ways to accomplish things. The shaper is a great tool for sharing amongst multiple people. I actually split mine with a friend and we take turns with it.

good call!

@@modustrial led lighting is my job haha. That's how we make sure our led strips actually reach the 50.000 hours. Heat is what kills them, nice idea for a light, we did a same sort of project with a kitchen table. Rgbw+ww dimable led strip plus tuneable white 2200 to 6500k

Oh, nice! So I'm curious, because I wasn't planning this as a permanent install, I didn't worry about heat, etc., and it sounds like you are the person to ask.... how much of a risk is the the heat from LEDs in epoxy. And, how risky is the transformer on the top of the light? Beyond adding ventilation, would you recommend a little 5v to blow across the transformer?

I work as an electrician and know that led strips produce some heat, but enough heat to set fire to a relatively large piece of wood? I think its quite safe as even a lighter wood struggle lighting it up. it's usually not the leds that get hot, its the transformer. I would be quite supprised if this would start a fire

@@Nordbish it really depends on what led you use aswell. For example if I use a high power 6500k 900 lumen led string the led will het hot and need some heat sink.

Thanks brother! Glad to have you here!

Thanks Caleb! funniest thing was that I thought like 10 times "be careful around the wires"....then cut them off anyway....all you can do is laugh at yourself sometimes... :)

Paul Gormley 😂

just being a bit lazy....the heat gun was 5 floors away in my shop in the basement of my condo building...

@@modustrial Makes total sense - thanks for the reply. Cool project looking forward to more in this series.

Thanks Adam! Always happy to share mistakes so others can learn from them!

Спасибо! Вы правы, что это одноразово. Это был эксперимент, чтобы увидеть, сработает ли он вообще, поэтому я не беспокоился о том, чтобы сделать его готовым продуктом. Тепло от светодиодов также является проблемой. Сейчас я работаю над некоторыми проектами по эпоксидной смоле для светодиодов, которые изменят процесс, позволяя заменять светодиодные полосы, и позволят потоку воздуха над светодиодами. В ближайшие два месяца появятся еще одно или два видео о светодиодной эпоксидной смоле.

Приветствую. Что за фрезер такой ,в начале ролика?

Русские логичнее видят решения

@@user-sf7vp3xy6k результат тяжелых условий жизни... дорого распыляться и делать неверно с первого раза + нежелание париться)

тоже про это сразу подумал. А еще зачем париться с фото и фрезеровать по меткам, на лампу снизу никто смотреть и рассматривать не будет можно было просто примерно фрезеровать по контуру и все.

Thanks for the tips Simon! It is always great when I get to learn from viewers :)

Thumbs up for "STILL".

Lol, "for those in the three countries on earth _still_ using inches". :') To be honest though, our metric system ain't perfect either. We have e.g. the meter, and from that we get things like the dm, cm, mm, km, ... And it's all powers of 10, easy to "math" with. And then come the astronomers, and they pollute it with the "AU" and the "light year"... Goodbye, easy powers of 10, *grmbl*. But yeah, for the rest I'm all for the "Royale with cheese" and "Le Big Mac". ;)

@@EvenTheDogAgrees Absolutely not that it is. In fact the whole SI is an Egyptian conspiracy. But at least it is consistent and helping with calculations (without CAD stuff, that is).

LOL +1, for those 3 countries - so thanks for being considerate of others.

Can be done with just hand-chisel, takes ages. Regular router a bit faster, tho nothing like the speed of these tools!

Any thoughts on something for the back that wouldn't detract from the overall look? I'm open to ideas for something lighter....just used what I had on hand.

@@modustrial most commercial products uses plastic covering. They also consider convenient access by using the snap on and off instead of needing a screw driver just to open it. When you're in a store look at how most industrial designers thought of accessibility in case of repairs. That's a good point to start. Btw, great design. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.

Thanks! I'm looking into such ideas for the bigger version I'm working on, where weight will be more of concern, so I'll come up with something

Thanks Kudiwa!

Вы не можете заменить светодиодные полосы ... это был просто эксперимент. Я делаю большую версию, где вы можете изменить их с изменениями в процессе. Оставайтесь в курсе....

@Asadchy смола будет как радиатор,думаю все норм будет

@Asadchy я скоро проверю

7:57 используй 5050 - из 3 уже по одному сгорело, но работает .

Нихера се сколько у него инструментов, а мозг не работает, погорят диоды нахрен

Yes, valid....I'm going to be adding some holes in the cap, and maybe a little 5v fan over the power supply.

Anton Benon and Mike, You might consider replacing all that stuff with a single tiny phone charger cube. They’re 5 volts. I just used one on my latest LED project video. Works great!

That would be really cool, and I'm looking at something like that for an upcoming portable light project.

i have made 3 timber epoxy lamps and never had any issue with heating..... don't worry.... great job....

@robert pivcevic thanks Robert! Would love to see yours. Do you have pictures anywhere?

Thanks! And yes, that is pretty close to what my plan is for the big one ;)

LOLz - I just recommended the same thing for the routing task! My bad.

DIY Satisfying Epoxy Resin Night Lamp | Wood Turning | Satisfying Videos - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e62ElJCI2by7dIk.html

i like your idea just read more about electrical is all

Watch the end of the video ;) I talk about these exact two issues.

@@modustrial Sorry didn't see the end of the video. And is it enaugh light from one strip? Would it be better to make Led strips from both sides or even 1 strip at the bottom?

No worries! Your comment was respectful and constructive :) light output is adequate for a mood light....for the bigger more refined one I'm working on, I'm going to just use dual 12v strips that are denser (120 LED/m) so it can function as more of a room light.

@@modustrial Great solution!

Doesn't epoxy actually transfer heat better than air? So if an LED-strip is cool enough to be used without any heat sinks (just passive air cooling), having it surrounded with epoxy should actually cool it even more effectively.

thanks Stephanie!

Thanks John!

I'm a lighting designer and Electrician. You're not correct.. I have fitted miles of LED strips, in many different enclosures, LED strips this length wont get hot enough to damage it.

@burnt toast I'm happy to be wrong :) that's what I get for listening to the peanut gallery. What about the transformer?

@@garrl007 I wish I was wrong. Now tell this to the major French museum that had to replace ALL their signage. By the way it's not a matter of length. How do you measure temperature, when epoxy is a heat insulator ? Speaking from tens of kilowatts of installed LEDs.

Absolut. Als versierter Hand- bzw. Heimwerker sollte man in der Lage sein die Jahresringe einigermaßen mit einer anständigen Oberfräse nachzufahren. Ich bau das Ding in 3 Tagen ohne den Hightechmist nach. Man kann alles verkomplizieren. An den Holzarbeiten nachdem Kabel und LED eingebaut sind sieht man, das da nicht viel Planung dahinter stand.

Thanks Adam!

Thanks much!

Я хотел бы иметь возможность делать автомобили Mercedes в моей мастерской. Ты можешь научить меня как?

Золотые слова!

Вот оно, золотое сравнение. Я вчера пол часа думал, так и не мог объяснить словами суть всех манипуляций с мегакрутым оборудованием, там - где реально "от руки" 10 минут делов без потери качества))

@@modustrial With your tools you can make a product as complex as a piston. You made the product as simple as Opel. show what your equipment is capable of? I will make such a lamp a simple router and without computer programs.

Thanks much!

Led=no heat

@@markpavliuk7792 No heat? Awesome. Go ahead and buy an LED bulb from the store, install it, turn it on for a few hours, and then grab it with a firm grip with your hand. Let me know how that works. (legal disclaimer: don't actually do this, you will burn the s*** out of your hand.)

I'm with @chaz720 heat should always be a concern with LEDs.

@@markpavliuk7792 Leds produce little heat, but having nowhere to go (due to bad heat conduction of resin and wood) temperature can go up high. How high and how fast, you can't tell as it has to do with many factors. So heat may be an issue.

I really doubt the heat those LED's output could ever heat up that big of a slab of wood enough to be of any concern. Also, AIR is actually one of the best thermal insulators there is... Especially since the resin is poured in after the LED's are placed the LEDs probably are going to conduct the heat into the epoxy well enough to be nowhere near a fire hazard.

Thanks! And good tips as well!

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZfaq: kzfaq.info

never ;)

@@modustrial im subed to ya now!! u do make some neat stuff. its cool that u commented back to me :)

@@MrAfx34 Thanks Derek! Glad to have you here. I do my best to reply to all comments.

Спасибо! Вы правы, есть много вещей с электрической работой, которые можно значительно улучшить. Это был просто эксперимент, чтобы увидеть, будет ли он работать вообще, и как будет выглядеть дизайн. Я не собирался делать это как постоянную установку. Я работаю над увеличенной второй версией, где я буду использовать то, что я узнал в этом эксперименте, и исправить многие ошибки. видео для второго света выйдет в следующем году в январе или феврале.

@@modustrial если сгорит светодиод, то можно сразу выкидывать в мусорку, должен быть доступ для ремонта. Ленту светодиодов нужно направлять вниз, иначе такой светильник имеет только декоративную функцию.

@@modustrial Главное ИДЕЯ ! Она не имеет цены. Реализация может быть разнообразной, а вот идея бесценна !

Lol, no love for my blue steel impersonation? :) Thanks brother!

Modustrial Maker is that what that was? Lol

Of course! Gotta love an orange mocha-frappachino!

Thanks! Looking forward to catching up at WBC!

society is already doomed because of the epoxy trend....

+Modustrial Maker Haha!

Have u seen "The jetsons" ?. Its the same thing, beautiful but boring.

This is one of the most privileged, first world comments I have ever seen

Complaining about tech whilst commenting on an online video he's watching on his smartphone 👏🤣.

Thanks for the helpful and constructive comment

@@modustrial okay, You seem insincere. That may not be your fault, perhaps you are sincere, however it does not come across in your presentation. This project is not really conducive to a "how to" project. It seems more to be a vehicle for you to pitch an expensive digital router system. Perhaps that is not your goal, but, that is how it came across to me. If your goal is to make a "how to" video, then do it. With all of the complex and expensive steps you presented, if your goal was to create a how to, then perhaps you should have used less expensive tools, more readily available to your viewers to accomplished the same thing. Okay, but you chose not to do that alright, I respect that. You chose to go the digital visual quantum flux capacitor route. Even in that, you didn't accomplish the "how to" goal. You give a convoluted, confusing explanation on how you set up the digital vision system. You could have taken some time to outline the system and how it works. Instead give a wierd description of plywood shims. The LEDs you just bailed on all together, so even you thought it was too complex. So, either assume your audience knows everything, in which case, go the music montage route and don't say anything a la Laura Kampf ... Or ... You assume your audience needs your guidance, in which case, keep it simple stupid (kiss) is the best approach. In one scenario your choice of tools does not reflect your perception of your audience (experienced). In the other scenario your editing style does not. Otherwise this is just a soup sandwich of random ideas. As an experiment, you could have done away with the cookie slab all together and simply epoxied LED strips into some scrap wood, using three different techniques. And focused on technique, finish, utility. Perhaps using a cheap laser thermometer to measure temperature. Leaving the lights on for a month 24/7 to see how hot they get and a hundred other possibilities. Take your audience through all of the steps. Put links in the video description if your audience should watch your other videos first. Say in your introduction, "go watch these first, then come back". This was planned and executed poorly. On the up side, you have very good video production value. How is that for constructive criticism?

@@danielforrest3871 You seem reaĺly mad for some weird reason... this is YT, you don't like the video? There's plenty more to choose from. Get a life and stop acting so bloody superior. YEESH.

@@rockycycle2682 why do you think I am mad? This is KZfaq, and the comments are here so that content creators can get feedback. Currently there is an epidemic of "everything is great" reviews which help no one. So being honest, giving negative feedback gives creators insight to at least how one person views thier work. If enough people say the same things, they can use that information to improve what they are doing. That is not anger, that is love.

@@danielforrest3871 While you speak of negative feedback, I find your initial comment "is the worst" here by far. Clearly you have the aptitude for communicating well, however, you did not even attempt to do so. You could have done a much better job describing what was done poorly, in your opinion, but you didn't. Therefore, your negative feedback was not helpful, as you failed to provide any insight whatsoever, at least not until someone replied to you. Honest, perhaps, for you, but your comment obviously fails to provide any value whatsoever. In simpler terms: FAIL. Have a nice flame-bait trolling day!

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to be doing it by hand in a future vid. 👍👍