this would be true if the turbo was mounting on the top of the motor. heat rises. the fa's turbo is mounted on the bottom. everything else i agree with.

#7 is all that matters

even for mobil1 full synthetic?

How can you see the oil temp? It’s not on the dash is it?

@@millhouse313 it’s in the small screen above your infotainment- you can adjust with the one button next to the emergency lights button and air vents

Exactly brother. I have been saying that the 4 years I have been in this Subaru community. I admire all of the modifications our guys and gals due but my base model WRX aka Ocean Blue will always be stock. My next car will be the new STI but I'm in a sweet spot. I have to see if the new motors perform well. I hope they are fuel efficient.

@@paulmarsdensr1095 Agreed. I recently drove a friend's Stage 1+ FA20 WRX and honestly it doesn't really seem worth it to me. He has an OTS tune via accessport, catback, and an STI short shifter. I don't know if my expectations were high or not but it really wasn't that much better than stock. I'm happy with how the car performs and honestly I'm okay with keeping it stock and driving it for a long time.

@@jonm.678 Amen brother me too. I'm a retired US Navy sailor 20 years and I worked on aircraft. I retired in 2007 . I'm 51 years old. I get kids or whoever trying to race me all the time it's hilarious. I put a vortex generator on and OEM foglights on my 2017 base model WRX. When you start doing all the mods you could really run into problems if you don't know what you are doing. Stay safe brother 🙏. Subies forever. I will be purchasing the new STI. After I do my research of course. 😀

Manly rods and pistons with head stud upgrade can't go wrong and a catch can from Cobb best way to go

Took the words right out of my mouth dawg. I have a 2015 base WRX with 141K on it and haven’t had 1 single problem

cobb ots tune, blew up motor 1 month later car had 122K

@@fa20ty 115k stage 2+ currently on rev 27 of tune. Don’t use OTS tunes lol

Same here (tuned at 20k). Just hit 115k on my 2015 WRX on Cobb stage 2 ots tune lol. Keep up with fluids and she’ll be good to you back.

This could apply to any car really. This is basic stuff. I dont even have a WRX or plan on getting one but, I can definately apply some of this to the car I have now.

@@MrNorotic I suppose to a degree every car has quirks to look out for. But, I've owned a 2012 V6 camaro since new, I literally have had nothing that needs to be tended to apart from oil changes, tires, and brakes after 80k miles (yes, the OEM brakes lasted that long, but to be honest i should've probably changed them at like 60-70k). So, my point is that some cars don't have much to "look out for" - they just run without issue for the most part. Even with all the stuff in this video, in the end I still want a WRX for winter 😂

@@mattm2339 Ehh and I hesitate between WRX and impreza.. 2k17-2k19. I'm really afraid I'll waste money on the WRX ..

​@@mattm2339 What the hell are you even talking about? Warming up the car, and using proper octane fuel is too much? Oil separator is common thing for all Direct injection engine cars. All of them have issue with carbon build uo, it has nothing to do with Subaru being some black sheep. It has no issues especially compared to how shoddy EJ25 was(which was the only source of bad rep for subaru. Both naturally aspirated and turbo).

@Kacpa2 coming in hot I see. Any "normal" car doesn't have all this stuff you have to watch out for. It's really as simple as that. Chill bruh.

Thanks for the support!

Interesting about the AOS! So maybe some interesting back story and info, ive been canvasing/surveying, and most dealers don’t seem to care about AOS’s for the fa20 but care for ej’s. Could be anecdotal, but that’s about 65 people running them going for warranty claims in the northeast. The AP comment didn’t come through as intended, its mainly for all the people that run tunes without the AP installed, which is a surprisingly large group of people (generally older gen). Realizing now, I edited out some of that content🙃. And preach, walnut blasting and plugs will define the success of long term ownership, no if ands or buts lol

People buying Subarus should stop this dumb Access port shit. You dont need obd2 readout at all times, and 99% of people dont use it as "monitoring tool". Nor should care what current tuning autoadjustments the engine does.

2023 if we're lucky!

Get the 2021 the new 2022 looks terrible

Rip.

You mean the one that is never is going to come out? Stick to the FA20. Stage one will give you more power than the EJ

Got a 2007 gli with 235,000 miles on it. Still kicking strong. Just bought a 2020 wrx. Hard to beat that German 2.0T

These motors have a margin for error thinner than paper. Ppl will talk a big game all day about it's the driver, oil changes, and nothing else. It's also the fact that all it takes is a tuner having a bad day to eviscerate this engine. They are only durable under very particular circumstances that aaje it hardly worth the anxiety of driving it and stock, they are one of the worst cars on the road.

Your so lucky ! Now I’m stuck with my dumbass wrx

@@whynot7026your dumb wrx is more reliable than an STI. Ahem… ringland failure

What do you mean by emissions stuff?

That's a myth. You just need to let the oil circulate for 10 seconds to get to all the parts of your engine. Then drive conservatively until your car reaches normal oil temperature. Don't go by coolant temperature.

Maybe with others, but I've tried driving mine waiting 30 seconds vs when the idle revs settle at around 800 (which isn't exactly op temp, but close enough), and the difference in performance is notable. Whether or not it's a "myth" doesn't matter to me. This was gained via personal experience with my car. I just found it interesting that it's also being said here, and commented my experience. I was not the original owner, and cannot attest to how it was driven prior. All I know is, I treat it best I can, and patience seems to pay off. On a final note, when I say difference in performance, I'm specifically noting the way it responds to conservative driving out the gate. I rarely hammer on it, and that doesn't occur on the side streets. By the time I make it to the thruway, it has been driven long enough that everything is ready to go.

Still a myth.

@@Dr.Ticklebum69 again, gained via experience. My 2015 STi is happier when warm. I cannot speak to experience with a turbocharged FA20 motor though. The NA FA20D did not share this particular characteristic as I had driven PLENTY of FR-S (FR-S's, FR-S-i??? What's the proper plural here 🤣) during pre-delivery inspections as a Toyota/Scion Technician. They were ready, and happy to go in mere seconds. I'm not saying this is or isn't a "myth," again just sharing my own observations and experience with my EJ25. Only has 67k on the odo so it's not notably high mileage. Is modded and tuned. Again, I cannot atest to how it was treated before and perhaps that played a factor here. Hard to say for sure. Just know what I experience day to day with mine. So in some instances, it clearly holds water. However, it shouldn't be taken as holy writ just the same. My stance has been, and will continue to be, do what works for you. If something that gets called a myth works, then whatever. Continue to do it because it works, not because of the would be myth, or regardless of what others may say. The main contributing factor for why I wait is that the car feels boggy if I just start up and go. So I always plan my trips with that in mind, giving myself time to allow it to settle before driving. I use the idle as my metric for when it's ready, not the temp gauge (although typically they coincide, hence why I originally mentioned op temp, however in hindsight I should've been more clear about this, my bad). At the end of the day, you do you, and believe what you will. To each their own and all that jazz. As long as you're getting those smiles per shift, you're getting the experience desired, right? (Who needs smiles per gallon anyway? 😉🤣)

Quickest way to warm up the car is to drive it. Nothing crazy, but drive after 30-60 seconds. The high idle is an emissions thing, but let the oil circulate for a bit, but then drive. Sitting and idling cold does not do much for warming up the engine. In extreme cold get a block and trans heater.

I think they have to prove the mod is what caused the failure, but it’s still a fight you may or may not want to prove.

he's running the Seicane Android headunit.

No downpipe?

I have more plans as I continue to research and ask the WRX community.

Should be exciting! Get a JPipe on there!

You’re not gonna make much power without a downpipe.. that’s like the first performance mod you should do

I will be putting on Rally Armor mudflaps here really soon. Wow alot of great mods looks like. Enjoy brother.

Who knows is the answer, take car of the car and it will last longer. As for the intake, if you are doing all that, get one. Its the cheapest part on the list

I know this was a while ago, but if your tuner told you that, I'd find a different more knowledgeable tuner.

😂

I just let it warm up until the cold rpms drop after about 30 secondd

many on the channel

I know this is late but yes put in 93

I mean just to say it, Lexus's have some of the worst reliability on the market, depending on the year. And FA20 will treat you far better than a lexus IMO

@@AutoEnthusiast are you joking? Lexus has some the worst reliability? Subaru drivers really are insane

Negative, I really wouldn't tune the CVT

Other than the struts however, my subie has been by far the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I have over 100k miles on it now and now a single issue with it in that time frame.

Just Noises or were they leaking? Nothing like that should fail at 5k miles. 70k milrs, yes, but not 5k. Is there a list of "wear items"? Is it published somewhere?

@@K03sport ya the front were actually leaking a slight amount of oil but not really clunking like the rear ones were. I showed that to subaru and still denied warranty. They do actually have a list of parts that they do not cover under warranty, struts are on that list.

Yes you can!

Ideally no access port either, as it only tempts idiots to be idiots and for people to get needlessly worried about shit ecu does in the background. Just normal driivng and good octane fuel and it will be reliable like a toyota. Letting it warm up and cool down before and after each drive is also important. I feel like people in us are completely clueless on how to treat a turbo car because turbo diesels are nigh non-existant outaide of commercial vehicles. In europe we have them everywhere and its common knowledge to treat the turbo engine right.

Unless it's ej engine

Really?? Who was the tuner?

@@AutoEnthusiast I'm still working out the fine tunes but it's XRT tuning (xtremeracing)

@@TheExploringZ Did you go with a turbo or supercharger?

@@AutoEnthusiast neither. Na

@@TheExploringZ your running a tune with natural aspiration?

eh it's kind of the same boat right now, slightly cheaper to make power on the FA24, but we are starting to see trans blow

yup lol

Even for the first 3000 miles, because I’m at like 2500. So I’d know to change then or later

@@AutoEnthusiast why does subaru say 6K?

That's pretty wasteful. At 3000 miles the oil is just getting good. Wait the 6 months or 6000 miles.

I know on my 01 is300 I do it every 5 k miles