Thank you! I went back today and removed the white plastic covers and there is tons of space under there to soundproof. Made a huge difference. Thank you! I'm going to pin this comment so more people see it.

Solid recommendation, Kieran. You and many others have said as much, so I went back today and added sound deadening material there and you are right. Makes a world of difference. Thank you!

If you are concerned that the plastic will not stick back on you can buy butyl tape for that, although when you apply sound mat on it you can make it overlap and hold it in place anyway.

Thank you! Mine too, ha! A good old Polo. Solid start. What did you end up getting to replace it?

Damn only 23mpg must have been a fault with that car or you was revving the nuts off it 😂

@@jamieaygo 2006 Opel Combo, which is based on the comparable car to Polo but with cargo unit. Diesel, decent power, utility in mind. Love it! How about you?

Thank you, Paul. You are aptly named as I certainly feel wiser as a result of your comment. I actually went back and did those sections as per your advice and that of others and it's made a huge difference, so thank you. I am currently Googling "BMW door trim clips"😂 I did think about adding foam too, but wanted to keep the car on the lighter end, so opted not to do that. That might change depending on how I feel about the result. Thanks again!

Thank you, Andrew. Solid recommendations. I have actually gone back and removed the white plastic panels and soundproofed the outer door panels and it makes a huge difference, so thank you!

Thank you!

I'd advise going further. Many kind people commented on my video suggesting to remove the vapour barrier and sound proof the outer panel. Makes a huge difference and seen as though you've done most of the work to get there, it's only a small extra step, but totally worth it. Difference is huge. Once you've removed two door cards, you'll be a pro and have a good understanding of how to put them back together!

That's great advice! You can never have too many clips!

I've used about 90% of one box across the driver's side door card, one rear passenger door card, the bonnet and boot and have another box on order. The weight question is a great one, and yes, you do feel it. The most noticeable is when you actually open a door that is soundproofed versus one that isn't. I'm curious about fuel consumption also, so I'll keep an eye on that, too!

Hey, Matteo. Thanks for the comment! With soundproofing, you really want to use three layers to get any difference you can actually hear. Kilmat is the first part of that journey, but then you want to apply a cell-based foam on top of that. I've done a video with the one I used (it's by a company called Silless and it's super easy to install, hence why I bought it). After that, you want to use mass-loaded vinyl, which is basically like a thin sheet of rubber that works well at blocking air noise. All these materials work in combination with each other to soundproof your car. Using Kilmat on its own, you will see differences when you measure the sound with something like a microphone that doesn't auto adjust for gain like the ones in smartphones do and you might hear a slight difference, but you want to be using all three materials in combination with each other for maximum gains. For the door card, in my experience, it's tough to misalign the doors as clips and screws are keeping it in place, so it's quite hard to get it wrong. I do think it is absolutely worth doing the doors as a lot of noise comes through there, especially the outer panel, so I'd focus on that rather than the panel on the inside of the door. if you end up breaking anything, parts can be found on eBay that are super cheap. I picked up (search for this term on eBay) "50X plastic door trim panel bumper retainer clips rivet fasteners 9mm hole" for 8.47 GBP that seems to do the trick, but do shop around. Many people have also commented that you don't need to fully cover the surface with Kilmat. You can get away with 30-50% coverage, so save yourself some material 👍 I am actually working on a huge video that will cover the whole project and it's frustrating that I can't get the video out sooner to help you, but do stick around and ask questions! Folks in the comments are really helpful.

Hey, Sayan. I have actually gone back to the doors and removed the white plastic covers and covered the outer panels in sound proofing material and it makes a huge difference. Between the boot, bonnet, one rear door card and one front door card, I've used about 90% of one box, so I've got another on order that will come tomorrow. I haven't actually done the offside doors yet, so I'll see how far the next box gets me. I'm guessing two boxes will be enough for the Aygo, but time will tell. Tine wise, you are probably looking at 2 hours for the bonnet, 2 for the boot and about 3-4 hours for per door card.

Thank you. Solid recommendation. Went back today and did just that.

Thank you! Mine too, ha!

No, it's actually designed that way so you know that its adhered properly.

you won't really hear much difference audibly speaking, but you'd likely find a difference if you measure it with sound equipment. To get the full effect, what you need to do is use sound proofing material like the Kilmat ones as a base with foam on top and then something like mass loaded vinyl on top of that, so you'd essentially have like a three layered cake of sound. The reason for this is that they combat different things. The Kilmat sound deadening mats combat mostly vibrations, the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) combats air/wind noise and the foam acts as a layer in between to capture everything else. I don't have experience with PU foam, but I'd imagine that will act like the Siless foam stick on layers that I've used. If that's the case, using something like MLV on top of that will give you the best of all worlds.

Thank you, Scotman. I'll review my thumbnail. I'll certainly have a look at adding some closed cell foam if the difference isn't significant.