Hi. Just getting into the whole cnc diy project and have to say I didn't know what a Backlash spring nut even was. But by the end of your video. Clear as a bell. And so simple to. Thanks for sharing your skills.

I had received a bad anti-backlash nut from a CnC kit I purchase and the company did not respond back, I was going to purchase one, but came across your video and it helped a great deal in making my own anti-backlash nut, it was for a 1/2" 5 start and 10 TPI ACME screw. Thanks for the video!!

Nice easy fit. I'm going to build my first CNC using box store screw rod, so I will need to solve this issue. Thanks, Tom

Thank you for sharing that information. Great videos.

Thank you. Very nicely done. Simple and to the point.

Thanks, this was exactly what I needed

Very helpful and - for me - to be immediately applied. Thanks

Thanks for the clear explanation.

Thank you! It's a great tip!

Cool, i'm going through this problem right now designing and building a custom CNC machine. Love your videos. I just noticed I hadn't subscribed. So I fixed that problem. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

The most critical item in backlash technology if there is such a thing is not only the nuts ability to be adjusted to fit the screw thread tightly but, the screw rod threads must be exactly the same over the entire distance of travel of the nut, if not, it wears the nut out in only a few passes to fit the unworn thread sections, that why the spring may be the best chance?

Regards from Chile,very elegant job. a Question, can i do it in aluminun or other metal?,there are some diferences? in the designe? TKS A LOTS!!

another version might use a coupling nut (tpi count issues) that could be modified. It is 4x the length of normal but. Also precision ground threaded rod is not expensive, and available in many tpi counts.

Are you still using the threaded rod or have you changed to an Acme screw? If you haven't gone to an Acme screw how is your thread rod and anti-backlash nuts working out? I am working on a larger CNC and was looking at using threaded rod since they are considerably less costly.

Good explanation. Delrin is s good material but if you really want a great material, consider MDS filled nylon (Nylatron). It is a little pricey but has excellent wear resistance and a very low coefficient of friction. Your motors will thank you for using it.

really helpful ......

Thanks

So if i understood right these two screws bring together the two nuts?

would this work for a camera slider?

The plastic used in those cutting boards is High Density Polyethylene (HDPE), just for future reference.

Using springs is a much better choice when the lead screw is unevenly worn out.

just subscribed your channel

What about using a piece of threaded rod as the tap to get a really close fit in a plastic nut? You could file a cutting edge into the rod to cut the plastic (delrin or some such). Such a tap would be an inefficient cutter which might leave a slightly undersized internal thread form in the nut. Could this prevent backlash? Any experience with this?

can you apply this same method to make linear bearings/bushing?

Great Video! Quick question though, did you tap the cutting board material by hand? If yes, does it not wear out? I'm currently using a hex-nut and threaded rod and am getting way too much backlash. I would like to try the method you have shown but don't know if the threads on the white material will wear out quick? Thanks

Nice design! I think the slop comes from the threads being a 75% depth cut which is typical because it is just about as strong as 100% without the problems of precision. It also allows for lube, crud and imperfections. If it was possible to have a 100% depth cut I think that there would not be any backlash (slop). Maybe that would be possible with a plastic "nut" and metal screw but are there any 100% taps that exist??? Has anyone been creative and put an 8-32 screw into a heated plastic 6-32 hole? That would be tight.

I am guessing somebody tells you that you sound like Seth Rogen every fews days or so

The springs you get on hobby machines don't work. They appear to be fine when you are measuring backlash on an unloaded axis, but as soon as they start leaning against a cut to drive a bit the spring is not up to the task and all the backlash reappears. A rigid structure such as you have made here is the only working solution. It would be even better made from metal, and with the mods you have here you can easily machine some aluminium to do the job.

How would you thead it for a start 2 rod?

As I understand it, you can add a variable in software to take care of backlash, why would you not just implement the fix in software?

dude! your are Ron Swanson!!! great info buy the way!

The term is AXIS not ACCESS

Skip to 2:00

Axis, not access. ..

Just a little constructive criticism, it's a Z-AXIS (pronounced as: ax-iz), not a Z-ACCESS. Thanks for all your hard work on the videos. The plural is Axes (pronounced as ax-ie-z). Sorry, I don't mean to be negative, just trying to be helpful.

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If you do it, do it right! Yea, you could use a spring? Come on, how many people want to keep adjusting the tension. The spring is to make it self adjusting and to keep a constant tension on the nut so that the nut performs consistently for it's design life. You explained how it works but you failed in your attitude when it comes to making one.