Thank you very much. Its good to hear you are still able to enjoy them it takes a lot of time and energy to just keep them shining.

Thank I really appreciate it

Thanks a lot!

Yes the best feeling is making these small milestones

@@carthageclassiccars My milestone will be when my current project moves backward and forwards up the garage. It’s a two foot long toy loco. Then I can do some flat panel bodywork on it :o)

@@teamidris I hope you reach your milestone soon good luck with it!

If the holes are worn out in the original hinges that will cause some play. I am usually a fan of just buying the new hinges. Before you do that lift up and down on the doors there should be no play in them. I have a video on a 73 Challenger where I do door skins and go over how there is no play in the hinges. If you have no up and down movement align your doors without the striker get them where they are to your liking, then keep moving the striker to make sure it doesn't try and lift or lower the doors when closed. Hope this helps a little good luck .

Thanks man, I really appreciate your response and the tip I will do that, I will be in touch on the outcome of this issue, keep up the good work, you got a fan here, thanks again.

In this video I use the plates going into where the back bumper would bolt into also

@@carthageclassiccars​​⁠Have you ever used Fast Etch from Eastwood to remove surface rust and/or protect bare metal? It leaves a phosphorus coating until you return to work the area. Any opinions on using a product like this? I looked into etch primers. I saw comments that laquer thinner doesn’t remove etch primers and to use acetone? I’m looking for some feedback advice. I have a project that I don’t/can’t work on continuously and need to prevent/protect welds and bare metal until I can resume work. Thank you

@@jimdrechsel3611 I have not used the fast etch, but check out a video on OSPHO on my channel. That would be about the same stuff for removing surface rust. So the red primer in this video is OER red self etching oxide primer and laquer thinner has been wiping it off for me. If acetone works better not a big deal use that. A lot of times I will also use VHT Epoxy paint but you will probably not remove this completely but scuff over it and seal it up later down the road so if you need to get to an area again this might not be the best option. The best option is get the epoxy in the can 2 part that you can pop the bottom and release the catalyst but you have to use that can in a few days and its pricey. Hopefully that helps you out.

@@carthageclassiccars I was thinking about something like the Fast Etch because it is a liquid that could get into craters and such - not a flat panel. It leaves a phosphorous coating to protect it supposedly that you can wipe off later. I really don't want to blast. That gets everywhere and collects in areas you can't get out and later collects moisture. What preparation steps would you use to later epoxy over an area sprayed with the VHT epoxy? I have seen people post window cleaners, pre sol, water based alcohol ,,,, It gets confusing. Would you wipe a cleaner and scuff with 180? 220? I appreciate the help. My biggest concern is doing the work but when it comes down to priming and painting if I do the wrong steps to prep you later get reactions and bubbles. It's too much money too waste. Any help with a video you have for prepping bare metal would help too. I will check out your OSPHO. Thanks again.

@@jimdrechsel3611 there are many different products and ideas on how to accomplish wat you are looking at. If I don't blast I follow the OSPHO video steps on rust removal. But on larger areas I usually try and always shoot epoxy and down the road at the end of the product I either scuff everything with 180 or strip to bare metal on the exterior and then shoot my basecoat epoxy which would lead you into the bodywork set of videos.

Thanks for the comment and yes upon first glance the new frame rails are identical looking at them. In the past the the rear ones have been the same also. I will use the dow holes and also take a measurement off the chassis diagram along with making sure everything is square. this should get me where I need to be or in a way I can use some push pull rigs to move it where I want. The plan for the front end alignment as you can see with the shock towers I didn't JIG anything up. When the time comes we will build the front end at a mocked up ride height off a camber/ caster gauge then weld the shock towers to get the desired numbers we want. All of what i quickly described is the idea for a future some video's is will go over all that also in detail.

thanks and please email me carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and ill get back to you in private.

Thanks for subscribing! Shoot me a email at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com I think I have the plans I found on the internet for the rotisserie and modified them to what I wanted that I can forward to you. With the JIG I have a video mounting a 70 Nova pretty recent that I go over more of the JIG building process. I plan on building another JIG in 3-4 months and was thinking about making a video on that if you stick around and aren't building one right away but its nothing that complicated that watching that video with the Nova shouldn't explain. Any other questions just add them in that email.

I personally have not, but saying that I pick and choose what goes on the rotisserie. They are always stripped bodies with at most what you see here and I won't put them on here if the main structural pieces are rotten out. I won't even put a unibody on here if the quarters are missing to prevent issues like you asked about.