No, it just comes with built-in fuses :).

Thank you! I agree it is a lot to learn and I hope some of my other tutorial videos can make things a bit easier. I'm also working on compiling more resources for new builders into one place that can be linked on my website.

I have not built any 150g bots but Bristol Bot Builders has you covered: bristolbotbuilders.com/guides.html

Probably you want a 2S lipo pack between about 120 - 300mAh - Hobbyking have stopped doing the really nice 180mah packs they used to have. There are some suppliers around, componentshop.co.uk have a 120mah pack which looks nice but I haven't tried it (I still have stock of the discontinued HK ones). Remember to use a balance charger for all packs with more than one cell.

Thank you!

Maybe! In theory anything that helps removes heat can help. But you would need a way to ensure that contact remains in place throughout a fight which could be harder than it sounds. It's not something I would rely on per se

Brushed motors are generally able to deal with more voltage than their rating up to roughly 150%, but the higher you go the shorter the lifespan will be. Will it still survive a number of fights? Probably. How many? No clue.

@@JustCuzRobotics Cool! Thanks for the information

Power may go up but current should not. Lower KV motors sometimes can use higher voltages.

Doesn't help when the same bot uses both... 😅

Sure!

Plenty of drone or RC plane/car receivers will work for robots. Any that take PWM can work with almost any ESC.

Oh really? I have read that ages ago somewhere and didn't question it. Whoops.

If your robot has no spinning weapon maybe. But Li Ion is limited to

@@JustCuzRobotics Depends heavily on the individual cell. I have Samsung 40T cells (21700 size), rated at 40 amps continuous current from 4.2V to 3V. That's per cell. You get what you pay for with Li Ion. I would say though that they are no more safe than LiPo. The danger from LiPo comes from people not understanding proper battery care. Always balance charge each cell against the rest, charge cold, not after running the pack warm, and do not leave them full or dead for extended periods. Ions are just as dangerous if you misuse them. Check all the footage of people's vapes exploding in their pockets for example.

You can always try a different ESC and make sure to tape over the bullets to eliminate that possible issue. Otherwise getting a $20 IR thermometer can help to determine if parts are overheating. Just run for a little while and check the temps on the motor and ESC. Need to use masking tape on the motor to ensure the reflective metal is read accurately.

@@JustCuzRobotics thanks for the tips.

It's almost definitly a heat issue. I've got 40a esc from skystars (talon32 slim). The switching mosfets are rated for ~250A continous and ~730A peak currents, but the esc is really tiny. Without the direct airdraft from a drone propeller (which can be easily 100kph or higher) those things just melt.n

One video showing the entire build process would be like 16 hours long lol. That's not possible.

@@JustCuzRobotics mebay you can make more video's

In probably 99% of cases the super oversized esc's are not worth it. But if you really aren't tight on weight or space at all they will definitely work

But was I wrong though?

@@JustCuzRobotics Never said you were wrong, it is indeed big chung

The average viewer is watching less than a third of the video, I think most people hit 'like' near the start

@@JustCuzRobotics for whatever it's worth, I'm putting off watching until I can focus on it properly.