Quick Set Repair Epoxy Used: concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/repair-materials/ 10% Discount Code (Enter At Checkout): ehr10 All The Other Tools Used On The Project - amzn.to/47tgzdQ

This is some work. Living in my house for almost 30 years it might take me 2 days to empty where the cracks are. Great job demonstrating this technique. Thank for sharing

Nice video! When I was in Commercial Construction,we had a crack like that and what we did was use a pneumatic crack chaser we rented for the tool rental store. It was a chipper that the point was “U” shaped. So, you followed the crack and it would leave a “U” crack. I believe they are making a grinder blade that has the “U” shape. Tool Rental stores are a great source of equipment! A two part Epoxy works great! However, it can be expensive. At Home Depot and Lowe’s in the Quikrete area they sell 1-2 gal buckets of “Hydraulic Cement”. It is a great product ! Be sure to wear Nitrile Gloves! It will eat up the skin on your hands! Follow instructions by adding the correct amount of water. It will become the consistency of dough. Mix small amounts for the first few time so you can see how fast it sets up. Put some in your and roll it like Play dough. Roll it to the width or just a little smaller of the crack in the shape of a rope and press it into the crack. You will feel it get warm while rolling it out. Let the magic happen! Hydraulic cement expands as it fill all the voids. In fact, it will rise above the floor. Just take a trowel or and strike it flush. Hydraulic Cement is a a great product! I saw pool repair guy use on the pool under water and it worked! He mixed it up and put in a ziplock bag and dove down and pressed it around a crack where the new light left a void. We use it in block and around pipe sleeves in a concrete wall where water was leaking through it. 10 minutes later no more water leaked through!

I didn't do near that amount of work. Scraped, used no grinder or mask, dug out cracks, swept, filled with a tube of concrete filler. Two years later, is fine. Even if I have to re-do in a few years, it beats all of this for me. But hat's off to you for your excellent video.

I will eventually need to do this in my garage too as i have a similar crack but the smaller slab is also off but a few degrees from flat and was thinking of getting someone to level it first by either pumping slurry or foam underneath...

A couple of tips: running the shop vac with the hose near where you're using the angle grinder will suck up most of the dust. Also, running the shop vac as you pick at the crack will suck up dust and debris as you go. Third, if you have a crack that's propogating you'll want to use a concrete blade on a circular saw to extend the crack in a straight line in order to control where it propogates.

Very good work, especially on the prepping that is so crucial to get a proper result. Just 2 details that I would change to make the fill stronger: There is a reason why the crack happened in the 1st place, which is that the parts are drifting apart (or: were). Hence, I’d suggest to link the 2 platters by applying concrete connectors. I‘d also suggest to, depending on the depth of the crack, to apply the epoxy on the sand in 2 layers to go for sure the epoxy soaks in deep enough and fill in really all the crevices, i.e. layer one first, sand only half full, get it really soaked, then apply 2nd layer of sand and do the final fill as you were doing.

I used a fine mortar mix for my cracks and it seems to have worked great for my situation. Same prep steps as you did, then filled crack with unmixed mortar mix and sprayed water on it till it saturated down thru the depth of the crack. That way I could get the crack filled to the top (which is near impossible with it already wet & mixed. Ground it down and it came out great. The epoxy looks like ti works as well, but I spent $8 on my bag of mix.

The fact that the crack ran along the entire length, and that the previous attempt didn't hold, means there's a big chance the floor is still under stress, and that crack will open up again. What you SHOULD'VE done is to cut deep notchs (every 3ft or so) perpendicular to the crack, put a staple in each notch, and then do the epoxy throughout the crack and the notches. You can still add them in now, before you do the epoxy finish.

You do videos so an old lady gets it. Thank you so much.

This is Michael. Great thorough explanation and your job was very well done

Thank you, Scott. Most helpful and very well explained.. Awesome, great video, very useful! Much appreciated!.

Great work, I did my garage floor during Covid, tons of filling and grinding. One recommendation I would make, build a homemade dust collector. A 5 gallon bucket, lid and a couple tubes or buy one. Probably carried 15 pounds of grinding out. And a dust collection shield for your grinder. Don’t want to breath that stuff, mask won’t cut it. Well done!

Excellent video. I appreciate how you thoroughly explained your process and them demonstrated it. If you are not already a vocational teacher, you could be. And a good one.

Clearly, this channel continues to be some of the very finest KZfaq content!

That's the best stuff I've seen for cracks. Wonderful.

great demonstration! There's a few things I'll be doing to my driveway and garage floor thanks to your videos. - John

If you’re going to finish your basement, this would be a good practice to do on the concrete basement floor and possibly some smaller cracks in the walls to help with future problems. Bigger ones in the wall have to be dealt with a bit differently but very close to this process especially all the cleaning and grinding. Great video.

Yes to the initial question. Cut joints in the slab to begin with . 4 feet is a good starting point.

Nice work. It could get real expensive real quick with epoxy. I've also done this similar type of repair with Sika selv-leveler. It goes nicely into the crack and has a ton of glue which bonds to the concrete really well. Much much cheaper at like $20 a bag which makes close to 5 gallons of liquid.

Great video, I work in commercial construction and see a lot of polished concrete, what you did is very similar to what the professionals do but use a different epoxy manufacturer and a machine that mixes the two parts on demand. An open crack like your's they would use a carbon fiber type mesh to bridge the crack. The theory is the crack is likely to come back, the mesh keeps you from seeing it when it comes back.

I've had to do a lot of this in my foundation (vertical cracks) and I found that a hammer drill on hammer-only mode (no spin) with an old (or new, if you don't care) masonry bit (in my case, 1") makes a nice tapered opening and it takes almost no time to do it (and it creates a lot less dust than grinding). You can make a pretty consistent enlargement / cleanout with that technique. Once you get to a depth, sometimes you can angle the bit up or down and zip right through the material in a line. Not going to be as smooth as precise as what you did, but for time & effort, it's pretty good. Then I either foam the opening, core fill, and then dig the foam out later and repair mortar that smooth, or I just put a flat form against the outside and core fill it all with fluid grout. Helical stitch ties, stainless allthread, frp rebar, or heavy stainless wire/rod can be used to help prevent the crack from returning. Sorry, I know that's a tangent to this.

I would highly recommend a diamond v groove crack chaser for widening that groove and creating a perfectly clean surface for the filler product (epoxy in ths case) to bond too. It really is the perfect tool for the job.

Thanks for a very comprehensive video. Crack repair is on my spring project list. No excuses now.

Wow, Scott, you're really cranking out the content. Thank you!

Structural engineer here. Great job! Very thorough, well explained, and well executed. The only upgrade I know of would be staples.

Yep great repair and prep video! and, it will hold up way better than any concrete repair mortar. As a quicker alternative, I use a Medium setting epoxy myself (635 thin US Composits medium hardner) for better flexibility in case of movement. After prep, I prime the crack a few minutes before with the mixed epoxy and brush in and then add Cabosil to my mix to thicken it to a drywall mud type consistency and trawl into the joints with a drywall knife. The Cabosil strengthens the epoxy too. No need to wait and keep applying epoxy either. One and done. If you are going over it again with say an epoxy floor system, don't forget to wash your finished epoxy joint when its dry with hot water, green abrasive pad and some dish liquid to remove any amine blush. Amine blush is fairly rare unless it's higher humidity and cooing off and is only water soluble. The waxy like blush will prevent a next coat of anything from sticking. I learned the hard way and even so called non blushing epoxies can blush in the right conditions. Boat builders avoid having to remove blush by putting the next coats on while the epoxy is still a bit tacky and not fully cured. *Added notes, I have about 15 years into my technique and no problems with re cracking even with heated floors expanding and contracting the concrete. This repair does not work at all outdoors unless the crack is painted with a UV protectant. Read the directions carefully, temperatures matter and epoxies can get so hot that it can ruin the job if applied too deep or if the concrete is really hot in summer. In winter in an unheated space the epoxy may never cure. Buy the epoxy for the weather conditions. Usually the hardener is changed for the weather. In colder conditions you can heat your epoxy bottles part a and b up in really hot water to make sure it cures and is not too thick,

Awesome product! Thanks for sharing!

I'd be curious to see how it fairs out over time. I live in an area prone to small movement and don't know if I would just be refilling and redoing it year over year.

I did this 2 years ago to my garage. The only thing different I did was add more silica sand on top of the epoxy mixture causing it to form a paste that was slightly higher than the concrete. When dry the epoxy is completely filled with silica then grind it smooth.

Interesting looks straight forward , slow and attention to work is imperative , but it can be done ,thanks

I used to repair cracks in the concrete in a floor that had fork lifts crossing carrying heavy loads of steel. I used the clear epocsey from Home depot and poured it into the cracks without the sand. that material had a longer cure time and would settle to the very bottom of the crack and was self leveling at the top, so it would prevent further damage when the fork lift went over it. It would take a lot more material in a long crack, so it would get expensive, but i never had to redo the crack. The supposedly same stuff from Lowes would not work because it did not cure in the depth of the crack.

Very informative! This will help a lot of people do it right

Wow! Amazing project! Well done!

Thanks for this. We moved into an older house and the garage slab is badly cracked. I may have to attack it next summer. Any suggestions for dealing with low areas in the slab where water wants to pool?

All good advice, enjoyed your video ....thanks. It's all about preparation.

Good Luck. I seen those fast patches mess up the seal coat. Bubbled and cracked. if it messes up clean the concrete with muriatic acid. any oil residue will cause seperation

KINDA HARD TO TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT WHEN YOU ONLY HAVE ,45 SECONDS BUT YOU MADE IT LOOK EASY GREAT VIDEO

Thank you for your information ,it was great thank you God bless you a man.

with a wide deep crack like that closed cell backer rod works well ,the problem with sand use you have to grind or catch hell with a scaper but just rod and epoxy the excess scrapes off real easy after it fires off

I used a $20 bag of polymeric sand to fill some driveway cracks, as well as filled sidewalk expansion joints where the original filler had disintegrated, and 1year later, they still are holding. Not sure about long term viability, but was by far the cheapest and easiest solution.

How do you clean concrete garage floors after all the winter's salt? If i power wash it after thorough sweepings the salt just comes up again. All input appreciated!

First time on your channel (thanks, YT suggestions!). Liked not only the job you demonstrated but your overall approach--not too much detail, not too little; pacing, etc. However, a few questions or suggestions. First, I noticed how your crack extended through the garage and then up the foundation/ wall, a vertical crack. Do you plan to address that? If so, does Concrete Floor Solutions have a quite viscous product for such vertical applications. You mentioned that the solution you're demonstrating would work for basements and I imagine that vertical basement cracks are just as much an issue as horizontal ones. Second, for the crack extending out into the driveway--I believe you mentioned that you will be trenching an expansion joint between the garage and the driveway, and then repouring the driveway as well (wow, $$$). Will you be cleaning up and repairing the driveway crack first? Use the same CFS products? Plan on making another vid to demo all this? Finally, a suggestion: if I were doing this job, I'd have my trusty Gorilla Cart (four-wheel garden cart; nope, no sponsorship here) with me, with all consumables and tools to pull along gently with me as I made my way down the crack. Probably especially important given the fast-set nature of the product. Finally, you may wish to physically, visually lay out all tools (safety equipment, etc.) at some point as sort of a checklist for people to follow.

I simply use sandkote which is a fine sand mixed with a clear or colored super acrylic binder and that's it. Sandpaper the finished job with 100grit and paint over with Florkote. Job done for 20years.

That crack is now the moving joint for the slab, since there wasn't one cut in at the time the slab was installed. What it to keep it from opening up again when the slab starts to move when moisture, temperature, and earth movements continue?

Great job! What about concrete wall cracks?? What can be used for that? The outside wall cracked and went across the garage floor as well. Thanks in Advance!!!

If you have issues with some water coming through the floor from hydrostatic pressure, will this work vs, hydraulic cement?

Thank you, Scott. Most helpful and very well explained.

If theres anything people take away from this is make sure you have a good quality respirator. The dust that grinding kicks out is insanely hazardous to breathe in.

Funnels work great

Thank you I found your video very resourceful.

Nice. I wish I could find that stuff in the UK. Surprised you didn't repair the foundation wall as that was cracked too.

Great work & Demo...

Harbor freight sells the diamond wheel for your grinder. It cuts concrete like butter.

Good to see, you are using a guard with the grinder. A grinder is one of most dangerous tools in the shop!

May as well pour cement grout down that crack since it is only a cosmetic repair.That epoxy is weakened by the sand filler and does not extend the full thickness of the slab.It cannot be guaranteed that the epoxy will bind all the way down the crack which has sand as a filler.Sand does not increase the strength of the epoxy it is just a cheaper filler.This needs to be shown between two pieces of Perspex filled with sand and then the epoxy poured over it to see the depth of penetration of the epoxy down to the sand. Then also the strength of the epoxy sand mix.

I'd be curious to see if you would have vibrated that sand down, how much more would you needed to add, also after time that sand will settle, would it have a negative effect with the filler over time.

I you's a phallus for my cracks and it does the job . some moning but hay it get the job done ...

Excelente explicación. 👍

Nothing is ever permanent, ever. However, this is pretty damn close so thanks for putting it out there for us.

So, is there a reason why you didn't smack around the crack with a rubber mallet or upside down sledge to get the sand to settel deepper into the crack and into possable voids under the slab? Just wondering. Would you recomend filling/drilling holes and putting spray foam if you hear a void/hollow under the slab?

I was concerned when you introduced the idea of using fine sand under the epoxy. I've seen videos of sand being used under expansion joint caulking to reduce material volume used. This is a BAD IDEA because sand will prevent the joint from closing and opening with temperature changes. For caulking, foam backer rod is the product of choice. For repair of a settlement crack where movement is actually undesireable, fine sand is actually very good idea. The fine sand serves as "aggregate" that actually pulls the epoxy further into the crack, and absorbs the epoxy until saturation. Nice repair.

Hey Scott, I just watch your video that repair looks great. I have a question . I don't see any any expansion joints along the foundation. I would be concerned that this crack is an expansion crack. If so you repair may crack again. I would look into installing some expansion joints ( controlled saw cuts) in the floor before you epoxy your floor. looking forward to see the finish video.

Nice video. Thank you!

In days of old, nearly 40 years ago, we'd open the crack up to 2" or more, and refill with concrete. We'd use a diamond blade, on a circular saw.

eoxies don't have much flexure or elongation, and are hard coatings. I prefer using backer rod in place of the sand. This gives a bond breaker and then apply a 2 part polyurethane material in tube form. You need a dual type caulk gun. There is a mixing tip that comes with the two tubes for mixing.

Have you done a water vapor test to see if moisture is raising from below the slab because of no moisture barrier?

when doing the crack grinding if you grab a carriage bolt that fits the hole for the handle if the saw you can set that like a depth stop then you let the grind ride on the head of the bolt and angle for depth of cut fine control.

excellent.

Outstanding.

Good information...Thanks

A dust collector, like for woodworking, between the grinder and the vacuum helped control dust levels when I've ground concrete in the past. Still should wear a respirator but the vacuum filter doesn't clog up nearly as quickly meaning more dust gets collected than otherwise would be thrown into your work area.

Will crack again after a while due to no expansion joint, hope there is reinforcing installed when poured the concrete at first

Do you recommend the same process and epoxy for a concrete outdoor driveway?

Hey...I have a furnace/ac unit that has the dripping going into the garage. The moisture runs with ac and heater. After a year of drippings, it has eaten the concrete. About 3 feet long, about 3/4 deep, and runs from drainage pipe to the indoor floor drain. Got any idea what it is? I remember dad collected it and stored it as distilled water.

there many ways to repair those cracks , fiberglass polyester resin thin it down some with acetone and mix the hardener , pour it into the sand , years ago i also repaired those cracks with latex caulking then painted the floor until today it's still perfect , you may use also epoxy fiberglass resin

What product can you recommend to repair a cracked roof cement tile (mastic or sealant possibly or rt600)?

Looks like a good job on filling that long crack. But I'm guessing that this won't do anything at all to prevent the crack to continue to grow.

Great video - thanks!! Can I do the same type of prep repair for pitted concrete, where the car tires have sat for years creating road salt damage, as a prelude to a flaked epoxy paint finish? The problem I see is with the grinding of the pits. It's not the same as grinding out a crack. How would you grind the small pits? Thanks again!

What grit sandpaper would you use for the sanding? I have an orbital, would that be ok and with what type of paper? Thanks!

Jean Claude Sand Dam was a LEGEND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wire wheel on a grinder removes old sealant the best.

Very helpful

Instead of using pricey and hard to work with epoxy, I would think applying with a small brush, a liquid concrete binding agent(which allows new cement to bind with old) (available at hardware stores) to the old concrete crack and then filing in the crack with a mortar or thin set, would be the easiest and most cost effective and long lasting. Take care

Good video. I've been in the Epoxy business since 1996 and my experience tells me some repairs will work, and other repairs done exactly the same way crack through the surface in as little as 6 months. Never really know what's going on under the slab, and if the rebar is rusting in the concrete it will continue to cause failures unless the total floor is replaced. I just tell customers the risk but 99% don't want the expense of replacing the total floor. Also not seen any difference in failure rates between filling with a self level product vs a Polyurea product. Just my 2 cents.

Scott, I know you said a future project was re-pouring the driveway but that crack is running all the way to what is either the wall footer or your house foundation. You are about to hit freezing temps and that long driveway crack is going to freeze and that, freeze and thaw, over and over until it brings back a hairline crack in that nice epoxy floor you are putting down. Run a relief cut between your garage and your driveway even if you plan to re-pour it later. Remember ice > concrete or epoxy.

I need to fill my expansion joints in my shop. Always filling up with dirt and crap. I thought of using some type of silicone but a bit harder version so they would still be expansion joints but just not dirt and crap filled. Watched this in hopes it could work for that but I see this is just for cracks.

when you pour the sand in, you need to vibrate the floor to help get the sand way into the crack.

We put carbon fiber stitches every 11 inches in our cracks that looked similar to the video, then the CFS products.

Nice job preparing & filling the crack. It should last for some time🤷‍♂Good luck. The underlying problem has not been addressed and chances are over time the crack will appear once again. The other obvious need here is a better vacuum source. Way too much concrete dust is escaping. Dust mask is a big plus.

What about the crack going up the side of the foundation? Will you use the same stuff or something else?

Great job👍👏👏

Thanks, looks good

I need to fix crack in drive and sidewalk. Are there suppose to be gaps in the concrete ?

Good clip. A couple comments/questions - Not sure if relying on wicking to carry the epoxy all the way through the sand to the bottom of the slab will work. Maybe good to put some epoxy down the crack first then pour in sand, section by section, then do the top level epoxy fill as shown. Probably should have done the crack extending up the foundation wall as well.

I used to use leveling compound designed for cracks, expensive for a big project.Then I use stucco mix with fiberglass, been 3 years, held up without problems and super cheap. For huge cracks, cut an inverted "V", backer rods, #3 rebar. YMMV

Hi Scott, thanks for the video. I have a similar situation in a basement garage that also has water ingress through the cracks. Would you recommend this product in this situation. I also notice that the product data sheet says it is not recommended for moving joints. My understanding is that a moving joint is referring to a crack that has slight movement due to thermal cycles or vehicle traffic, is this correct? I would appreciate anyone's input on this. Thanks.

What was the original cause of the crack? Is it heaving or sinking of the floor in spots? How long would this solution work without addressing the underlying issue?

Can you use the same product for driveways?

Awesome video! Thank you!!