I appreciate the nice feedback Jon! 😃

Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad that you’ve learnt something from it mate. I’m trying to make sure the content I put out is in depth so it can help people really understand the concepts behind the techniques. Thanks for taking the time to watch it. If there’s any other construction guides you like to see, feel free to suggest something and I’ll see if I can make it happen.

Thanks for the kind comment Tony! I really appreciate it.

Hsilver dale Thanks for the support!!

Hi sumoooo, thanks for the kind words! You can pretty much start drylining straight after you’ve applied the PVA. I prefer to do it this way because if there are any loose particles suspended in the PVA, if the PVA has time to dry fully overnight then it can leave a ‘dusty’ surface so your adhesive won’t stick as well. It can be done if needed - but I prefer it when it’s tacky!

No problem Qadeer!

Hi Robert, thanks for watching! If the casement is well attached an not loose, then screwing the board directly to it would save you a lot of time. 😁

Thanks, Jinger! keep up the good work.

Thanks David!!

Sticking out as in the insulated plasterboards come past your socket so you’ll need longer screws for your socket?

If you ever need to put boxes into insulated boards I’d recommend using the plastic drywall back boxes. You’ll just need to remove some of the insulation where they clip in. It save you using 70mm electrical screws to hold your socket back when you second fix.

@@jinger2224 Hi mate thank you for the advice problem is I can't use a plasterboard box due to the sockets being flat plate Forbes and Lomax do not work well with plasterboard boxes just curious as the site manager said 35mm and a little bit of plaster which I thought was about 45mm maximum and I was happy with that as my sockets would sit just a little bit shy in the plasterboard but ended up 70mm didn't think 40mm of dot and dab is a little bit 🤔

scott miln sorry for the late reply mate. I assume you’ve sorted it out now? If they were flush plates I’d have installed dry lining boxes and gotten the plasterer to plaster over the box to make a flush finish on the box. Just a tip I case you come across this in the future. Thanks for the comment mate.

Hi Mark. I’d definitely suggest priming the concrete as it’s got extremely high suction rates, you can check this by putting water on it first and seeing how fast it absorbs. The breeze blocks usually don’t require priming because they’re not as dense. Hope this helps!

@@jinger2224 thank you so much that's fantastic advice 👌stay safe.

Hi Alasdair, PVA is the white glue! Good question. 👍

Hi Sean, you should be able to apply adhesive right after PVA. You can always give it 5 minutes to absorb into the wall if you’re unsure. Thanks for the question!

Hey lulian, thanks for subscribing! Use a large builders square to set your corners up to the correct angle. Sometime this isn’t possible in older houses though since the brickwork can be out of square. So it’s always good to check!

Use the 3:4:5 method to check if your corners are 90 degrees. You can mark the triangle on the floor and level up from that.

I’d be happy to help. Although without seeing anything visual I can only guess! When the plaster dries, it can sometimes leave behind the ‘shadows’ of any adhesive if the adhesive hasn’t fully dried out before it is skimmed- which is perfectly fine to paint over! Cold and moisture will make the adhesive dots more prominent. If the wall where the adhesive is applied is ACTUALLY wet or the plaster still hasn’t dried out in those areas, I’d give it reason to either rising damp or moisture of some kind making it through the wall. Possibly even condensation forming on the back of the plasterboard if the room has been left cold (much like how you get condensation on the inside of a window) They’re just some possible causes. Thanks for the question, I hope you get it sorted!

As a former damp specialist you shouldn't dot and dab down downstairs in an old house that doesn't have a physical damp proof course. If this property has any damp proof course at all it will be a chemically injected damp proof course and using a gysum based plastering system will not work in conjunction with it.. its always advised to float with a sand and cement render with added waterproofer and salt inhibitor..

You’ll have to elaborate. I’m not using cement in this video. Are you referring to external rendering?

Hi MR V, Thanks for the nice comment! You can Dot & Dab insulated plasterboard with normal plasterboard adhesive, it’s one method of doing it and it’s perfectly fine. That being said, sometimes the plaster boards can be stored improperly at suppliers or while you’re waiting to use them which cause the boards to warp or bend if left long enough - which is pretty much impossible to undo with Dot & DAB on insulated boards because of how rigid they are. If that happens, I’d recommend using 25mm lath to stud the wall out - which gives you the benefit of perhaps using thinner insulated board, and filling the cavities between the lath with insulation - and most importantly, will give you a straight wall! I hope this helps. 👍

@@jinger2224 YES - I ALSO THOUGHT THAT I COULD USE 25MM ROOF BATTENS - WITH 25MM THICK INSULATION SLAB INBETWEEN - THEN FINISH WITH REGULAR 12.5MM PLASTERBOARD!!! WOULD ALSO BE CHEAPER I RECKON!!! WHAT DO U THINK???

It is a cheaper way of doing it. However, by not having any insulation over the Lath, you get cold bridging into the room. A 25mm insulated plasterboard onto top of Laths, with insulation between the laths aswell will probably yield a decent half way result. I hope this helps!

@@jinger2224 YEAH GUESS THAT PROBLY MAKES MORE SENSE!!!!!! 👍🏻

@@jinger2224 I WATCHED ALL UR VIDZ LAST NITE. REALLY IMPRESSED WITH UR HARD WORK AND LOOKIN FORWARD TO WATCHIN UPCOMING VIDZ!!!!!!

As long as the plaster is solid and none of it is parted from the undercoat (you can tap the plaster with your knuckles to find out - it will sound hollow) then there’s no reason why not. I’d always give it a quick run down with a bit of sandpaper just to rough up any smooth areas on the plaster prior to drylining. I hope this helps!

@@jinger2224 A small area is blown, but most of it is sound. If I knock off the blown area and PVA it and leave the sound part and sandpaper it, would that be okay?

That sounds like the best solution. Since you’re drylining it doesn’t matter about the appearance of the background - as long as it’s all solid.

@@jinger2224 Okay. Great and many thanks for your advice. Great video by the way.