Hi Bill, thank you for your comment! There are some considerations to take into account when choosing temperature, whether it be a soldering iron or a desoldering gun like the 8800. First of all, the wattage of the tool. For electronics soldering you want to be around 40W and no higher UNLESS the tool features digitally controlled temperature like many of the Aoyue stations do. In this case, the higher wattage becomes an asset because it simply means the tool has more heat (power) in reserve to be able to maintain the set temperature. When you touch the iron to a surface, that set temp is always going to drop by some amount. The bigger the surface area, the larger the drop and the more power the iron will need to recover the heat loss. As Wilbert said in the video, if you were to set the temp to exactly where the solder alloy melts, it wouldn't be hot enough to solder effectively. The moment that you touch the wire to the tip, it is going to drop below the melting point and take far too long to heat up. For this reason, you want to be well above the minimum melting point of the solder and for PCBs somewhere in the range of 600 to 650 degrees F is usually good. For lead-free solder, you would want to be at the higher end most likely because those alloys require more heat in general but in your case a vintage piece of gear is going to have leaded solder so you can still work at the lower end. Conversely, if you were up at 750 F or higher, it would only be a short few seconds before the traces start delaminating. This is just not enough time to desolder and clean the joint without damaging things. So I would recommend starting at around 600 F. There are a few things you can also do to speed up the melting process and reduce the time spent on the joint. Starting with tinning the tip of the desoldering gun with fresh solder. This will help get things started as the flux from the wire will clean the tip and the solder will help increase the contact patch or total surface area for heat to transfer from the tip to the joint. Adding more solder while you're actually on the joint also enhances this effect to get the solder melted quickly. The size and shape of the tip and the angle you touch the tip to the joint is also a factor in how quickly heat is going to transfer. The more surface of the tip that is touching, the faster it will transfer. Solder in between the tip and the pad expands the surface area for more efficient conduction. Along with good heat transfer, you should also have the proper amount of flux. No matter how much you heat the joint, it isn't going to melt and wet where it needs to without flux. In addition to the flux in the wire, you can add an external flux of the same type to the joint before heating, which will further cut down the time needed to get the solder in a fully molten state so it can be sucked out by the gun. You could likely get good results just by adding some fresh solder to the joint before you start desoldering. Getting some new flux and tin on there really makes a difference. If I needed more flux though, I would probably use a liquid flux with needle tip or a flux pen instead of tacky flux. The tacky flux is great for chips with many pins though. A flux paste could also work but with all options just make sure it matches the flux type in your wire. Finally, a clean and tinned tip is necessary to the best results! Thank you for spreading the word as well Bill, we absolutely take pride in keeping the products we sell serviceable for as long as possible!

Yes, that is technically the correct pronunciation! We have translated it to English though by instead saying "aw-you".