Yeah ill definitely be posting maintenance stuff as I do it. For the wheels there's really nothing special to it, they're like any other bike really, just clean and re grease the axle, check the wheel bearings, and I always torque the axle nuts to about 80-75% of the torque spec because i use anti seize, which causes it to tighten more with less torque.

@Daniel McCabe @foredore Is there any whatsapp / snapchat groups for sxv owners?

@@mikaelasp2348 we're all on Facebook, every bit of information you need though is in the aprilia forum

@@mikaelasp2348 if there's not, there should be lol I'm on the Facebook pages and I use this site a lot xvasylum.wikidot.com

Thanks man

Well good for you, but that is not the "proper" procedure, nor the correct oil, to do this. In both the maintenance manuals, and the instruction sheet provided by af1, it says to leave the bike on its stand or vertical. Im not going to show incorrect information that is a habit picked up from KTM riders. Theres no need to risk scratching your plastics, or dirtying a measuring cup for the gear oil. Besides that, I'm not going to teach the disregard for proper fill plug use, as too little or too much oil can damage your transmission, and overheat. The prefilling oil at the filter is similar to prefilling oil filters for vehicles debate. Many hobbyists will tell you to prefill, but many service techs will advise against it, as according to manufacturers, it introduces unfiltered oil into the oil jets, which go to things like bearings. Seeing as how the manual doesn't say to do that, I will not teach that. There's still lubricity in the engine for the few seconds of running until new oil gets filtered. I mean why not just use rotella t4 t5 or t6, if you're going to use the wrong oil you might as well use the cheap stuff. My friend uses t6, but he also has an oil bypass mod, which he is testing that should reduce the need for heavier oils like 10w60.

@@foredore i use this oil as was recomended by the aprilia agent who over years had engines in bits and it the only oil were the engine wasnt wornout ,no cam wear no bucket wear ,no rust ,my engine still look new inside with no signs of wear

@rolphbluesky8537 well thats great, but realize you're robbing horsepower and increasing resistance and friction with thicker oils. I don't care what you use if it works for you. But this is a video on proper procedure. Inevitably the sample size for different oils, thinner and thicker, is very small, and I'm not going to say one is better over the other. I have over 40,000 kms on that sxv running 10w60. 20k of which I put on, running 10w60, and it looks great inside. Thats more than 98% of other SXV's out there.

Just keep fresh oil in it and learn to do things yourself!

Probably just stuck, i couldnt tell you by cc's but im sure you could look it up on apriliaforum

@@foredore i can turn the screw, but its nit coming out..idk Maybe i find some infos there, thanks

@Mxx productions try prying with a flat blade screwdriver as you turn it, the threads are probably messed up, then get a new screw and fix the threads with a heli coil

It's just a catch can for coolant

Parts are same for us if not worse. I think volpe motor on Facebook is remanufacturing rod bearings, and i know there was one guy who had a batch made in Japan, so there are some aftermarket options if you look in the community pages i beleive. Also some kawasaki rod bearing are pretty close ive heard.

@@foredore thank you so much!

I've just used a syringe out of the fill cap

Very different, gearbox is mtl80wt engine oil is 10w60

@@foredore thanks one last question,.how many liters did you put on gear box and on oil reservoir?

@@MOTO-Republic just buy a couple jugs of oil and fill it to the fill line, don't be concerned with how much

1000 km or 15 hours, whichever comes first. Book says 3000km, do not follow it.

No need reallyf, its 2 bolts and a plug

@@foredore cool I will give it a ago got to send it to get mapping

Where's your video then? Trust me you're gonna need more than 1250cc after you dump oil into your airbox when you tip it over. There's no need to scratch your plastics to install oil, fite me. Idk what you think you're gonna do to the engine by filling it to the right level, running it, then topping it up properly, your argument is invalid. If you measure the oil you actually use to fill it to within the sight tube, you'll use more than 1250cc without a doubt. Sure you can measure out for the gearbox if you want, but why bother guessing and dirtying a cup, or potentially adding dirt to your gearbox, when its literally 2 allen heads to make sure its done properly? If you consult the various manuals for the different years, and the af1 manual, you'll see I've taken the factory and dealer instructions into consideration, after all this is instructing people how to do it "properly".

@@foredore I'm just trying to clear up the gaps in your video. Not trying to be a DDIICCKK. I'm an XV owner and moderator on AF1 and various FB XV forums. All of the feedback that I provided in my comment on your post can and should be verified on AF1 Racing and others forums. I am confident in what I've written.

@4R1P5R Whats your name? Ill have heard of you. I don't care what people's opinions are, if you want to do it that way go ahead, but I'm not going to teach it. People believe all sorts of mystical nonsense about prefilling filters, measuring, etc. But others swear by not intoducing unfiltered oil into the filtered side of oil system, and engines will find their own level regardless of the possibly dirty measuring cup you use. The only thing special about the XV engine is how poorly it was implemented and set up from the factory, otherwise its a good reliable engine like any other. You're not "clearing up gaps", you're introducing your opinion, which is fine, but I don't believe in it, nor will I teach it. You are being a dick, because you assume you're right and I'm wrong.

low idle rpm. Should be around 2100 and highly differs on ecu map