Me too

Same lol

Are you trying to impress someone? I rather have decent vs perfection.

Agreed. It is surprising how much of this stuff you see around once you are taught. The worst are the city tree pruners in my area. They come by and just hack off the tops of the trees.

Landscapers are NOT arborists. They know how to make your lawn look nice, but they know squat about planting trees.

@@geniea1 Yup ! Landscapers cause all the problems, and Nurseries start the problems

@@steelonius What city? Oceanside CA? It is a law to NOT top trees in Many citys like SAn Francisco

@@arboristprotrees9766 That sounds like a wonderful law! I live in Heber City Utah. However, last summer, after my comment here, I did in fact speak with the tree crew working in front of my house and they had certified arborists making cuts. It seems like they did a decent job. I think the standard may be changing here, but there are plenty of topped trees to be seen.

leeannisafriend hahaha same, had a few upward roots too. Jeez common sense kicks in too late sometimes.

Yes and get a refund from your landscaper

I have the exact same situation

Me too😢😢

You and most of the country

Hey! Your channel is great. Fancy seeing you here! :)

@@SamBrickell You too! This old house was what I watched as a kid and still do. This was the only DIY back then, Bob Villa and all that!

me too!

Alyssa me three. Plus, I learned how to save the life of beautiful trees as well. Today, I learned something good

Alyssa I just log in and watch these and chill. Trying to figure out my yard along the way

Alyssa me four.

Tampon Sucker69 you're sick.

You haven’t lived until you’ve have wicked chowdah!

As a Bostonian I approve. Actually I can say with a straight face that I’ve probably said a place has “wicked good chowder” more than once in my life without being sardonic.

@@Jeeppeeps... and without exaggerating, I'll bet.

Yea dumba$$ think we all have one of those . TOH give us a break!

More like $1-200 for the one day rent....

why bother with a 12k compressor when you plan to cut all the roots anyway?!

You don’t have one knocking about?

Think outside the box a bit.....Leaf blower will work too, just take a little longer.

Tiberiu Nicolae the mother of all compressors

+MoneyManHolmes hes a savage

MoneyManHolmes zzazz

Paco Ramirez watch brave wilderness

Lunch time snack.

No, landscape fabric is for where you don't want anything to grow like rock beds. Don't use it around plants.

mpharr2 I tried Preen last year and it didn't help. It's possible I waited too long and weed seeds were already germinating. This year I'll combine Preen and Casoron. Hopefully it'll work.

no you can leave it but give it a mixing around

I think they made a "mulch volcano" on purpose. If you have to remove it, I just blow it into the yard and mulch it into the grass with a mower.

colored mulch is fine. it wont hurt the tree. just not as beneficial. but its fine for holding moisture. i do fertilizer stakes around tree. they get burried kinda deep so the trees will get the nutrients.

To fertilize a tree you put the fertilizer on the ground below the drip edge (outer area where rain drips off the outer branches) as this is where most of the root ends are looking for water and nutrients.

There is no problem with grass around trees. Creating an edging and mulching around trees is a way to make mowing around a tree easier is all.

@@barbgrajewski9696 weeds around a tree don't compete for nutrients/water? We are trying to grow some trees.

Arborist wood chips are often recommended as the best mulch since the diversity of size and material type prevents compaction and adds more nutrients. And they are usually free to boot :-)

the best thing is a diverse blend of organic woody mulch material aged for at least a month or 2. Don't put fresh tree mulch or " arborist mulch" from a tree cutting job.

Actually you're talkin about tree species that are just more sensitive to lack of root oxygen resulting from compacted soil. That is the primary cause of roots growing on top of the soil surface. As they're growing over compacted soil to find better conditions elsewhere. Otherwise they would happily grow deeper, no matter if it was a bottomland wetland evolved trees such as maple. And if you cannot find your tree's root flare, that means your tree arrived from the nursery with its trunk already to deep in root ball. This is when you will find surface roots close to tree that had arrived already growing on top surface of root ball. Mainly caused by up potting deeper and deeper in the nursery. Covering over roots with soil will just make them grow on top of new surface. This is also reason why Roots lift sidewalks. Because people laying cement compacted the soil underneath. So roots that can't grow deeper grow right underneath sidewalk. Thus lifting is supposed to happen, doh!

do not water on or near the base. but water deeply and you will promote deepr roots. rember, the rots can only go where the water and moisture takes them. There is NO certain species that has "shallow" roots. It all about how you water.

Weed fabric interferes w/ worms, aeration, & soil quality over time. I wouldn’t.

@C II what I meant was the tree was mulched badly because of cheap, incompetent labor.

More like $$$ twice a year for dressing the beds and volcanos.

High-school kids? They are teachable. It's the old bastards that refuse to do anything different.

@@gangisspawn1 yup! These are actual landscapers that messing it up

www.treepans.com

Go find yourself some carboard and trim it as needed and place mulch on top and that will take care of those weeds.

It's only a matter of time that all the neighbors trees will be dead!

You were told wrong, unfortunately.

Typically, as far out as the edge of the branchline.

Check out this IOS App, it's called Mulch. It tells you how much Mulch you need after taking a few measurements, don't forget to read the App description to help you better understand the process. itunes.apple.com/us/app/mulch/id976094339?mt=8

_KINGsizeWINNER__, apply 1 inch blanket layer of Mulch beginning outward some six to 12 inches from trunks root flair base, and feathering higher to 2 inch level past tree's drip line._ This ANSI approved method holds true, regardless of trees age or size. Within several months, rain & wind will carry Mulch inward toward trunk, and lightly cover root balls open soil. Remember first to clear any accumulated soil partially covering original root flair level which young tree should have been properly installed at, paralleling or 2" above surrounding grade. The larger the "Tree wells"circumference holding mulch in place, the more beneficial Mulch applications are. The whole yard surrounding tree can be mulched, rather than sodded. Just keep it away from trunk! CAUTION when edging grass bordering mulch, because trees needed feeder roots are just below sod's roots. If reapplying mulch each or every other year, breaking up previous layers with rake first helps determine if one or two accumulated inches should be removed. Turning over decomposing mulch will also assure any Advantageous root growth is not being produced above soil level. The scientific goal with Mulch applications is to benefit soils thin organic decomposing matter (C)layer, not to shunt smothered feeder root growth upward into mulch layer. Like video said, all visible root growth should radiate directly outward. Normally real roots always intersect and join each other underground with no problem, but Advantageous ones produced above root flair which are supposed to be stem branches do not play nice. Long ago trees evolved a solution against wayward root growth encircling trunk by utilizing their powerful buttress roots to sever them. Apologize for such a detailed answer to your important question. But as an Arborist who encounters at least 10 trees per week needlessly strangling themselves after surrounding soil level raised or mulch mounded, its become an epidemic throughout Chicagoland. Good luck, and Enjoy summer of 2015!

Yes. Causes compaction and you get a grass volcano instead. Excavate the root flare just like in this video to relieve it and create a perimeter around the trunk

@@matthewfraney9108 thank you! Cheers

@@brianbacich9999 you're welcome!

NO NO NO.

A root flare is a trees tool evolved to prevent stem growing roots. Which situation would be easier to break out of. A noose tightening around your neck, or a noose around your shoulders? Don't be afraid to keep excavating until you reach common level where buttress Roots flair outward from trunk. That reveals original level in soil young tree was born at. Unfortunately even if all the trees root flares we're not covered up. There is still a huge nursery growing scandal resulting in deformed trunk flares. Just take a look at a Christmas tree stand having three or four straight outbound legs. One side of trunk resembling a lousy tripod missing a leg is bad enough. But today I am regularly witnessing distorted trunks with only one large buttress root coming out one side of trunk. Looking similar to a boot or a dog leg. Welcome to the air of puppy mill trees!

@@CONCERTMANchicago you seem to know what you're talking about. I wonder if I will risk the roots freezing this winter if I remove all the extra soil that was laying over root flare? the tree is too big to be moved so I'd also have to leave a "trench" around it as it's below ground level. Is that safe? The tree is doing fine though

@@avssify, you are absolutely correct and we are quickly nearing the time when is better to postpone rather than exposing moist sensitive bark tissue to open sunlight then freezing conditions. To be honest this is still a relatively new art of science which myself and other arborculturists are busy advancing forefront of science of. From our experience so far, soft barked species such as maple have proven most sensitive too late season freezing thawing conditions. And it's suggested that one temporarily cover up open areas with wood chips, then uncover them again next spring in order for exposed tissue continue recovery process. I learned this from personal experience three years ago after excavating buried area of new red silver maple cultivar in late October. Only to have tissue split and die back requiring time for new wound tissue to compartmentalize over damaged area. Of course I've kept this early experimentation focusing on public right-of-way and parking lot trees so if anything did go wrong, nobody would be losing a parkway tree in front of their house nor a private tree family would be saddened to lose. Regarding trench. It's well accepted practice to attempt lowering entire grade as far out as possible rather than causing adverse conditions resulting in pooling water that would take time to drain. On older well established trees when surrounding grade needs to be risen because of construction or whatever. It's best to install a tree well where trunk and surrounding crown flair sits lower in ground within a box. And yes KC, younger trees will have a chance of establishing and looking healthy for a while. But by time one observes any decline it's usually too late. Thus it's well worth the effort to correct when early rather than waiting around for high chance of inevitable to happen and losing tree entirely then having to start all over again with new tree. In conclusion every situation is different, and there is no one approach that can be used across the board. I hope I answered your questions, a photo of situation would sure help out a lot though when suggesting what needs to be done.

@@CONCERTMANchicago couldn't have hoped for such a detailed answer. Thanks so much! I'd love to bother you with some photos if you can share your contact or something

As far as I know the tree is not absorbing water there. It absorbs on the tips where the drip line is. But mulch can hold too much water against trunk so it can rot it out

It's only been volcano-d for about 1.5 years though

I had volcano mulch... then got TreePans www.treepans.com

i like that it shows people something that they can relate to (recognize) - but, I especially like that they mention ROOT FLARE several times!

Never get the trunk or structural roots wet!

This IS infact a problem on fruit trees very much so! - keep the trunk free and dry!

You've got hands to type don't you? Use them.

Wow, just wanted advise, that why I went to you..NO NEED TO BE SOOO RUDE!!!!

@@blacbeauty8871 Hey lady, this is what we do on That Old House. Yell at me again and I'll send Richard to bolt that old trap of yours. -Tom Silva, Silva Brothers Construction.

I'm not old!!!

Shovel, hand trowel, hand claw (with the 3 prongs), a stiff brush (when you get close to the roots to avoid scuffing/damaging them).

I'll supply the punchline first, because I know how busy us tree professionals can be. All the evidence of young trees growing roots on top of ground landscapers keep talking about while using as biggest excuse to over mulch trees. landscapers blame people for installing trees one or two in above grade and because not planted deep enough... But the overwhelming fact is how these trees root systems had already been severely suffocated when still growing in nurseries. Thus all that tripping root growth on top of the ground surrounding new trees quickly popping up within first two years after planting. Really goes to show just how seriously bad great great majority of today's nursery stock arriving already too deep and root ball has become just within last 5 years. So it figures how most of the professional landscapers across our United States only continue dumping more mulch on the problem, forcing tree to produce even more above ground roots.

No plastic. Bad for soil aeration & soil life, so plastic would be bad for the tree's long term health

@@JWHealing Thank you. My beautiful spruce is dying, from the bottom-up.

@@hisoverlorduponhigh90 Oh that's terrible. I'm so sorry! It didn't have a mulch volcano did it? Do you know the cause?

@@JWHealing My neighbor suggested I cut off several branches on the bottom. I should not have done this. I think the soil, is not holding moisture.

@@hisoverlorduponhigh90 Hmmm. Maybe get a good arborist to look at it. They have seen it all. If you were in my area (Olympia, WA) I'd have a good company to recommend. We just got some great tree work done in the last 2 days that we'd been putting off forever. They were so awesome. It's a massive relief to have it done.

it's ok, just not too close to tree...the "root ball" needs air, moisture attracts pests/disease.

Mr Anonymous Maybe the question should be who mulched the trees. Sometimes it's not the same person or team.

Jerkster your a douche bag I didn't see any racist comments I see you have the perfect name for yourself, liberals always trying to make something out of nothing

It's just a stereotype. Calm down, it's not the end of the world.

haha my thoughts exactly, now imagine how much those trees cost, $50? $100? Owner lost out a lot of money hiring cheap labor

as long as the mulch isn't in the volcano shape it can be beneficial.. it will help by protecting trees from lawn equipment by keeping grass far enough out and preventing cuts, help with keeping the temperature consistent and with moisture retention.

2-3 inches of mulch is not bad like a huge mound. Water can penetrate, and you only apply fresh mulch as the old mulch disintegrates. The same thing won't happen again!