That motorcycle is an affront to classic bikes. But each to his own.

I removed the eccentric cam bolt, 10mm I think, and rotated the eccentric cam all the way counter clockwise after I lined my F/T1 mark up in the window. My baseplate was positioned more or less centered, and after setting the gap at .4mm on both points, my GL fired right up and ran great. That cam is the key. It rotates counter clockwise and has to be positioned so that the rise of the cam lobe is just before the lobe contact of the #1 point. As the cam then turns, the point will separate and fire the plugs. So good video. The cam lobes are key. 100 percent counter clockwise with flywheel at TDC (F/T1 in the window).

Utter crap! The cam, which is part of the auto advance mechanism, is supposed to be pegged to the cam. There is, or should be, a short peg that fits into a slot in the rear of the cam. Why would anyone ask someone who has no idea how points ignition works to fix their bike!!

The feedback you are getting is not good..for a reason. This engine has a mechanical ignition advance system beneath the breaker mount plate. The cam cannot be rotated on its mount because there is a notch holding it in place on the shaft. The motorcycle is naturally a pre 1978. The 1978 didn’t have a kick starter. The dual points systems on all GL1000 motorcycles are difficult at best to tune. You tried to provide some good information. I can tell you are not experienced “at all” with the GL1000. You referred to it as a GL1100, (corrected during edit) you didn’t know the year, or how to advance/retard the points. You should really consider removing the video, or making a corrected version. Even when you were checking the gap you inserted the feeler gauge in at an angle to the contact surface of the points. Sorry dude, you need to know what you are talking about before you publish a “How to” video.

ok. Just finished replacing my points with a new set. This is what worked very well for me. I made this assumption as follows. The point Cam and main Plate was set at the factory and no one has messed with either. Ok.. So here is what I did. Replaced both points. Removed flywheel cap to observe timing marks. After locating point cam peak put a white dot near the peak. Using the starter motor and a DVOM looking for voltage across the points when they open, I bump the starter motor watching the white spot as it comes towards one of the points. Once it approaches say the left side points, I look at the flywheel and start to barely bump the starter motor until I get the F mark in the window. I now look at my DVOM and look for voltage or no voltage. If there is voltage I move the points ever so gently towards closed till there is no voltage, and then towards open for voltage again, . What you want here it to find the point where the points just break open for voltage. Once you find this point. Lock your points screws down.. You are done with the left side points. After locking them down. Keep your DVOM connected and using the starter motor to go all the way around again gently and looking for no voltage and then voltage right as you get to the fire mark again. This is to check your work. Now do the same for the right side points.. Done. Enjoy the ride!! O yes.. Forgot. Make sure to dab some synthetic wheel bearing grease onto the points cam to reduce wear on your points lobe. Forgetting to do this will wear the point lobe so fast you will be adjusting after every ride. Also.. For the DVOM, set to 20Vdc and use alligator clamps. Use a very small micro clamp for positive and clamp on to the point spring metal, and the negative clamp to frame GND. If you use too big a clamp for the positive, it may touch the frame and the spring metal which will ground out any voltage you are looking for. Just some tips. Enjoy the ride.

Please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m having trouble timing my own bike. I don’t think that cam is meant to be an adjustment, it’s for the timing advance. I’m fairly certain the proper way to adjust the timing is by turning the plate. The whole plate moves for cylinders 1-2, then there’s a smaller plate that screws to the big one for cylinders 3-4. The Honda manual doesn’t say anything about setting that cam position.

Great attempt but I thought it was odd that someone asked you to adjust the timing and you had no idea how to do it,so you checked you tube..

Mike use articulating fixtures for your camera phone , sound was really good Great info on making it run again! Great watercooled boxer(flat 4) engines still to this day.

Thanks for your explanation, I am trying to restore a 1977 GL1000, breakers timing is on my list !!!

Mike- If you can move the eccentric to adjust, then you have serious issues. The eccentric and spark advancer should be fixed on the camshaft by tongue and groove. To adjust timing you rotate the breaker base plate and to adjust the gap you rotate the points sub base plates. Hope that helps. Larry

Mike - this is an excellent video! Very well done. I have a 78 GL1000 as well. Runs great, have not touched points. I am planning to upgrade to electronic ignition. I understand there is a kit for it. Still researching. If you have any info on this, I would be interested. Thanks.

Hi Mike, my cam lobe moves freely by hand even with 10mm bolt tight, is this normal?

Hi , just to mention what you are working on it is 1977 GL1000 Wing , 78 and 79 not equipped with kick starter only 75, 6 and 77 came with kick start and only 1977 came I black and blue strip, friendly correction, may thanks

I was thinking You would align the dot to the breaker point at F1, but it was missaligned and the bike worked fine, so what didn´t I understand?

The fuse box location and the fuel gauge on the top of the tank door indicates a 75 or 76. I have had both a 76 (new, I was a kid) and a 78 (just bought the assortment of pieces the PO said was a Gold Wing). You did a very good video on the points, and I had a question about that firing point. You say it fires just as the dot on the cam lobe passes the point, right? I have been working on my 78 for a couple of months now, and it is running quite well, but I have not opened the points yet because "it ain't broke". But still, hard to resist tuning it. Does it fire one point and make a full 360 degree spin before it fires the second point, or does it fire one point and immediately after that fire the second one?

take the plugs out// to help turn the motor over easy

Where do the wires hook up for the breaker points? I see they go under the tank but i cant find anything on how they connect i have a couple gl1000’s all stripped down so not much help there

Just bought a non runner all the plugs are sparking but weak so going to check the timing. Great video thanks for the info. I haven't got the kickstart to turn over the engine mines an '80 model. How do I turn over the engine high gear and spin the wheel? Tried this quite difficult.

Vw manifold with Weber 2bbl carb? Yes, ? Building one now for 76 gl1000. 1 1/4 bathroom grab handle runners To mate manifold to elbows, radiator hose over metal tubes to make vaccum seal. Metal tubes small enough to prevent pressure drop that causes icing on manifold. Carb Holly/Weber for 1.6 liter ford motor. Small body carb fits between frame rails on goldwings. Changes goldwings to go-wings

Wow, that baby purrs like a kitten. A lion kitten, but still :) Question - does the base plate rotate to fine tune the points alignment?

Gooood,

I'm this video is completely wrong. The cam is not used for adjusting the points

In this gl1000 it's any electronic ignition can swap ?

First off you should change the timming belts

That’s a75 or 76 they are the only ones with kick start and the only ones off the early model’s that come with spokes the rims can’t be inner changed