The stove IS friendly and harmless, its how its used that can cause problems. No stove cooking in a tent! Glad you came out ok.

I used alcohol to prime my Svea 123. It was cleaner, and no flare ups. I NEVER cooked inside the tent.

Looking to get one to compare to my Coleman 530. Those were made in the mid 40s btw. Cool stoves though!

Once the flame at bottom goes off how does it stay pressurized.

@@babayaga9102 The warmth the fire produces pressurizes the fuel reservoir.

Angry girlfriend

A homeless person may have stashed it and never got back to retrieve it. Someone tossed it in the trash without checking contents because it was in ragged condition?

thank you!!

Sweet! Thank you!

Southern maine fellah here. I love my svea's. Rescued them from the family yard sale after my gramps passed. Anyone ever touch up the soldered/brazen seams?

Very cool!

Exactly! It's a beautiful stove. :-)

thank you for the kind words and support! Cheers from Arizona!!

that's cool! they're great stoves!

By the way, great video. I learned from it and need to rebuild my Svea.

+Mark Hazelden thank you!

sweet! thank you for stopping by

Charlie Tango 1. With lead free petrol you mean, gasoline we put in our car right.? I live on a small island, and all I can get at our gas station here is: unleaded gasoline, diesel and kerosene. Can I use kerosene in the svea123.? I want to make sure first what I can use, before I buy the svea 123 online. If you can recommend me. Thank you so much for your help.!!

100%

Absolutely! I'm going to do more for sure!!

your 100% right about that! I think I did that off camera I should have showed it in the video. thank you for stopping by and sharing your thoughts!!

My stove was sold (1967) with a tool for cleaning the fuel nozzle. There are two identical storage slots in the wind deflector, one for the Al lid handle and the other, for the nozzle cleaning tool. I still have the tool, btw, but thanks to Coleman fuel, have rarely used it.

My lighting procedure: 1) remove Al cup, loose accessories and

... wind deflector; 2) top up the fuel tank from my fuel bottle, carefully replacing fuel cap; 3) replace wind deflector, place needle valve key on valve stem and set stove on a suitable surface; dribble a small amount of white gas from the fuel bottle onto the burner assembly until some of it overflows and pools in the well next the burner stem; 4) carefully close fuel bottle and set it aside, stand back and ignite the fuel on the burner. The rest, plus a bit more flame and soot, follows easily and as soon as the flame burns clean, I'm ready to go. I leave the key in place and just handle it by the edges when it gets hot.

that's an amazing comment! I hope you can get it going again! they're great stoves!

Thank you! Glad you liked it. :-)

Thank you!

+J Adelberg Thank you! I love these stoves!!

that's so cool! I'm happy. I like historic stoves!

Hand sanitizer is 70% isopropyl alcohol. Works great!

+E Irizarry Thank you!

Excellent find and a great question! I'm happy you found one! They're great stoves. Someone's I use speaker wire to clean the jet. You can also use some carb cleaners. Vinegar, or even boiling the jet in vinegar. These methods usually work pretty well for me!

@@jiujitsu2000 Thank you I will try your suggestion. Another question, what size wrench do I need for the base nut? Right now I can’t loosen it up to check the wick. Have some liquid wrench on it now. When I was married we used his SVEA stove when hiking and camping. So I knew how great this kind of stove worked. It was like winning a million bucks when I found this treasure. I’m very motivated to get my SVEA working properly. Thanks again for your expert advise.

Subgunman yes you can run it on benzene this guy is putting regular gasoline and he doesn’t what is he is talking about. You don’t use car gas in any of these stoves. Yes you can do it in a pinch but you don’t want to. Auto gas is really dirty and has all sorts of additives in it and will clog to dirty up your stove a lot faster and who wants to cook food while burning nasty additives off gassing bad things in your food.

Subgunman Naptha is preferred as it has no additives and burns clean with residues, gums, or varnish. Automotive gasoline is not stable and will turn to sludge in storage. Coleman fuel will last for decades in the tank. In a pinch, Ronsonal or Zippo "lighter fluid" will work fine although a little spendy.

Reviewed this video and found your post. On mine I have found imprinted into the metal base in Very Small non-stylized font that reads in capitol letters: "BENZOLINE PETROL ESSENCE BENZIN" plus, there is a melted sort of warped metallic sticker still on it that reads "Use campstove fuel only No automotive fuel permitted (USA and Canada)" further there is something can't make it out followed by ..."low grade petrol (UK)" and then something in a fourth line that looks to be written in French I think as is too warped there to make out??? It's funny, I had a post above from 2 years ago and at the time I thought mine was the 123R model, not sure where I got the R from at the time but, on closer inspection there is no R on it anywhere..Imprinted large and fancy using 3 imprinted fine lines used for each letter and number and in a Large stylish font into the metal "MADE IN SWEDEN SVEA 123" .... must be the 50's model as some have posted here on it, no idea but, it still works great using the "campstove fuel" or as can be referred to as " WHITE GAS"....I Don't think either model fuel recommendations would have changed though? Hope that helps you or anyone interested in the great fuel question.

+NW Lady thank you! It's a great little stove!!

Thank you! I appreciate the support. Have a great day!

thank you!

sweet, thanks!

They are nearly £100 or more in the UK

CharlieTango 1 wowza thats a lot of doe for one of these i like them wanted one but at that price im gna have to wait bides my time

Best i saw was 80-90euros here in eu

You can get lucky thi

+john lounsbury Thank you!

+Harsha Gurudev Thank you!

can also go to any decent auto parts store and buy an o ring.

that's a great question! I usually turn the control valve of and put out the stove. then I let it sit for 5-10 minutes to cool down. if there is snow around I put it there to help accelerate the cooling process. the cooling process will slowly help the tank de pressure a LITTLE... after some time, I crack open the fill cap to let all the pressure out. I hope this helps!

Martina Dejaquiz It works fine with tread sealing tape used in the video. Just use plenty of it, roll it to a string and fill the space.

Locktite 55 is a Teflon type of string that would work better than tape. Might be hard to find in the States.

im positive ill need gaskets too

meirna777 eBay, the fettlebox

absolutely! sounds like the jet is plugged. I'd recommend taking a stand of wire and ruin it in and out of the jet. I use speaker wire. I'm try to do a video on this if I can get to the stove. it's in storage right now.

quick reply , thanks. when you say speaker wire do you mean unravel the strand from a clipped wire and just use one thread. that would seem pretty thin and breakable. i wouldn't want to get that caught in there.

+Rob D your welcome. sometimes I use a single strand. other times I use 2 or 3 depending on how thick the strand are. those jets are tiny holes. another idea to try is pressurized air through the jet. hope this info helps. have a great day. I'm off to work. :-)

thanks again man

Do you have a wire brush?? if so take 1 strand off of it, now unscrew the jet (making sure the stove is turned off clockwise) be careful if your stove is the 123R as I will have an internal pricker to clean the jet, if it is the 123 then no worries, just take the jet straight off the stem, now clean it out with that 1 strand of wire from the brush, try not to make the hole bigger, you can at this point (if you have NOT depressurised the tank) open the valve, then turn upside down, if there is any muck in the stem it should come out with the fuel, let me know if this helps, just click on my channel name. Ray

Pete Lucchini I don't know how to explain it. I have three of these stoves and I'm just patient when I work on them

I have patients as well but if you have a secret to breaking the valve stem from the tank I would like to know. Some report Liquid Wrench and let it soak for a couple days works. I actual slightly bent a valve stem trying to get it off, it still works but am trying to find a solution to breaking the Damn seal. By the way 12mm if it was a hair tighter would be better, not quite a perfect fit for some reason, I have tried three different 12mm wrenches. I notice it will start slipping while applying pressure to the valve stem. I am trying to check the wicks for carbon build up and burnt ends. Thanks for the reply.

I really can't think of any tricks. Sometimes I use PB blaster. It helps break the threads lose on some things. I don't think I used it on this stove though. Good luck!

Soaked in PB Blaster for two days and a strap wrench. Unfortunately next time it will be needing vice grips or a bench vice. I worked the brass nut fitting so much the first time it slipped on me a few times.. I think I am buying me a set of flare nut wrenches for this brass stuff. Wick was clean, turned it over to the cleaner side. Sprayed the valve out with carb cleaner, picked and sprayed the jet. Good Grief this thing is like a forge furnace now!! I will be using this stove for motorcycle camping from now on. Thanks..

I sure did. I loved every moment and would go back in a heart beat if needed. thank you!

True. These stoves (in my area) can be found on Amazon for aroung $100

yes ive checked there on a par in europe nothing gained theyre pretty tricky to come by a decent one at a decent price!! i was surprised how few there are on offer on ebay?

I just bought another one on eBay thinking I found a good deal on a brand new one. it arrived the other day and it's got the svea tank, but the valve and burner bell looks like a knockoff. paid $102 and got screwed! oh well we learn right

yes i noticed that its hard to differentiate the copies coming often from china russia korea im reluctant to part with cash as im abroad at moment and if i spent out that amounts then got ripped for it id be gutted on the b sides tho there are plenty of authentic projectd dirtier grottier stoves that you could possibly do up as a project which are absolutely authentic id rather go for a shittier authentic one than a shiney rip off one but main thing of cse is that it works! id like to get my hands on one i just spent allday on my msr half day fixing improving a whisperlite ive double burner rings up in.a stack and wadded out burner primer cup with carbon felt as you suggested its now really priming longer great for winter thanks for your suggestion it really works with doubling in gas outlet jets im chuffed with my improvements on it today!! cuz it didnt function last week had a blocked fuel line n jets

so thanks for that i shall just keep looking u can get a feel for what is all authentic n whats a ripoff!! not always but there are a few giveaways in the ads often!! or pictures but hard to be sure easy to get duped as copies are so identical