Hi Peter, yep - I occasionally use those Vega sun shells in HP builds, they help a little bit with lightening up rotating mass, etc...I will also typically machine older, thrust washer-style pumps to take the Torrington bearing/shim combo...I used several pumps during the course of filming that video series and, IIRC, the pumps featured in this video are different than the pump used in the rebuild videos. Great tip regarding using a Ford FMX pump bushing in the direct! I have heard of folks using a bushing from a Ford transmission but didn't know exactly which one so thank you for sharing! Agree with you on the output shaft bushing - it's a pain in the ass..I now drill them all out and install the plastic seals that come in the overhaul kits.

@@nickstransmissions Here is another trick a remember on lightening up rotating weight on 350 in addition to the light weight drive shell, use a 250, or 250C output shaft, they are drilled out up to about the end of the splines. Like grains of sand, it all adds up. I did several for Hobby Stock stock cars. You use the transmission to gear your car since you aren't allowed to have a lower ratio than 3:42. Multiply the 3:42 X the 1.52 second gear, and you have a 5:20 final drive. The rule is weird, but they are hoping to keep costs down by using the gears you have, instead of going out and buying gears. No spools allowed, but you can use a posi unit. No Powerglides permitted! I used to buy the FMX bushing from the Ford garage, but that was almost 40 years ago. Federal Mogul might still make it, but I can't remember the part number. I bought a lot of parts from a place in Homewood area of Pittsburgh called Recon A/T Parts, but they sold to Transtar many years ago, and they shut down the Converter plant near McKees Rocks. They built a good converter, and rebuilt pumps. I had bad experience with TCI, won't buy from them again. Recon sold the FMX bushing in all their Super Rebuilder kits.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, Peter...Last time I did an FMX, I recall not being able to find bushing kits so any time I do them, I leave all the bushings in and check them...If one is bad, I'll be looking for a hard part replacement with a good bushing. I think the 'Cal' kits come with a pump body bushing but that's it...Those units are a pain in the ass, lol, but the next one I get in, I'll film it from tear down to reassembly.

Thank you for the kind words, JRADMAKES!

The 80 doesn't need any more frictions anywhere until you're in excess of 750-800 HP in racing applications and then you're running a super drum in place of the factory direct drum along with a whole bunch of other billet parts (FWD drum, Input shaft, Int shaft, etc...) in addition to all the usual mods (dual feeding, etc). When doing burnouts, start in manual low then upshift as you go so more applied elements are involved. Burnouts are extremely stressful on transmissions...again, many hands make light work. Thanks for watching!

Yes - drill a hole in the bottom, then once off and cleaned, weld a nut that corresponds to the same diameter and thread pitch for a factory drain plug for a 4L60E...Put it towards the back of the pan.

Great tip, Ted! Thank you for watching!

Thanks, man!

Simple answer: Both. As long as the high reverse feed circuit is cut off, it doesn't matter how it's done. The most common way is to plug the reverse passage in the case. I recommend using all four check balls and drill the plate first, if doing a stock-to- sub-3000rpm stall build...There's more than one way to get from A to B. Thanks for the comment and please like and subscribe if you haven't already.

@@nickstransmissions thank you for responding quickly, I plan on using these modifications and love the Videos. Do you know what he does that doesn’t require the plug to be installed, or is it just the check balls.

I haven't seen that particular TH350 video so not sure of his specific approach though I am familiar w/that channel and he does a great job.

Thanks Key's Auto Repair!

You're welcome!

Thanks, Steve! If you already purchased the Transgo kit then follow the instructions in the kit as i believe the 1-2, 2-3 and manual kit dual feed through their separator plate but you may want to call Transgo's tech line to confirm. If you're not installing the kit then dual feed internally as i describe in the video and drill out your 2-3 feed while blocking the 2-3 accumulator if your converter is high stall.

@nickstransmissions awesome! Thanks! I've already got the Transgo kit, so I'll give them a call. My first rebuild. Any advice on a bushing driver kit?

You're welcome, man. I'd check ebay as i think someone one there sells a bushing driver kit specifically for that transmission and it's worth investing in if you either have other vehicles or think you may rebuild additional transmissions in the future...If not, a 'master transmission bushing driver' kit should suffice...If you strike out or the kits are too expensive, simply gather up your parts and bushing kit and take to a local transmission shop...they can prob R/R bushings for you for a couple hundred or so...

Yep, the basic Transgo or Superior tech shift kits are definitely a great way to get performance and increase longevity with minimal effort (I generally don't advise using B&M unless high performance is the application)...I recommend them for anyone looking to improve upon an already healthy transmission while it's still in the vehicle. For anything on the bench you can get the same results without one. Thank you for watching, David!

Hi Matt, Check out Transgo's non-lock up conversion kit for the 700R4. It's generally used for racing/high performance as opposed to durability...Lock up lowers heat when the clutch is applied plus helps a bit with fuel economy but not ideal for high-RPM racing...

Thanks again, man. Just pull the converter forward until the mounting pad meets the flex plate without lifting up on it. Then thread in each bolt but don’t snug/torque until all are threaded in. After all are started, go around to snug and torque them all to spec.

@@nickstransmissions thank you so much man!

You’re welcome. Ill add that if the converter appears to be sagging, it may not be fully engaged onto the pump stator and/or input shaft splines. If installed without full and proper engagement, you’ll destroy the pump when you fire it up. Make sure it stays fully seated/splined when you marry the trans to the engine. Fill the converter with a quart or so of fluid before installing it. After marrying the trans to engine but before bolting the converter to the flex plate, spin the converter and watch for fluid to come out of the supply line port to verify the pump is moving fluid. If so, and nothing unusual is felt when spinning it, you can be sure it was installed correctly and didnt come out of engagement.

Billet input shaft and 4L60E center support w/new Borg Warner low roller clutch are a good start (you can either buy just the shaft or both drum and shaft as an assembly), kevlar-lined HE Alto clutches in the low reverse and forward drum paired with late model 97+ 4L60E tubular steels (unfortunately, I am not aware of anyone that makes Kolene or lindered tubular steels atm otherwise I'd recommend them)...You can also modify a 4L60E rear ring gear to drop into a TH350 so you can run an OEM GM 4L65E five-pinion rear planetary carrier. Also, swap in a roller-equipped front planet if your unit has one that takes thrust washer and machine your pump cover for a bearing if it currently takes a selective babbit-style tabbed thrust washer. Don't forget to add a high pressure boost valve kit (I use Sonnax's boost valve kit and spring though you may want an even higher pressure spring). How many RPMs will this thing see? If north of 5k routinely, I'd do a billet cover on the converter and SFI flex plate as well.

@@nickstransmissions thanks for the reply! Yes this thing will live at 7500-8000+ for 15-20 second per pass, and yes rules require SFI flex plate and converter. What do I need to do to drop the 4l60 rear ring gear to drop into the case? And when you say buy the shaft and drum as an assembly, are you talking about input shaft/drum or am I missing something?

@BamBamMotorsports You're welcome! You can buy just the shaft and press it into your factory drum or buy a billet input shaft pressed into a billet drum (id recommend the latter in light of your info relayed above). You have to machine the 4L60E rear ring gear to fit (cant describe it as my machinist does it for me on hp / race builds).

Does the vehicle need to have reverse working or no? In some race only applications, I replace three low reverse frictions with tubular steels and only run two frictions if track only (or sometimes none at all) if the vehicle is trailered to and from the track.

Thanks, Stingray...The brush is about 3 years old or so but I like the thought of mixing in bit of transmission fluid, especially in the winter months...Trans lube generally stiffens up when it gets cold and viscosity becomes like play dough vs grease so a little bit of transmission fluid, heated in a metal container on a hot plate for like a few seconds or so until it's warm then mix w/lube may help get it's viscosity up on those colder winter mornings...Plus I'm sure it's good for the brush as well...I will try it in Dec or Jan and perhaps do a video; if so, ill verbally recognize you for the idea. Great tip!

works grate in the winter@@nickstransmissions

Hi SupPeninsula, thanks for watching...In a manner of speaking, yes but the most common problem that would cause apparent loss of power or bogging that's transmission related is the torque converter's one-way stator rolling over and failing. That results in no torque multiplication prior to achieving stall so vehicle would appear very sluggish. It will still downshift but the kick-down enables WOT kick down.

Thanks for that info Nick. I'm assuming my torque converter is not working properly. I had a shop put a new one in...and I'm highly leaning to the fact that they/he may have just painted my old one. He had all of my old parts, except the torque converter. A long story and poop show. Anyhow, I installed a switch and tci module that locks up my th350c...but even when it is activated (I have a light to show when power sends), I do not see any change in rpm. I've been chasing my tail with a bog and 3 carbs, distributors, and engines...trying to eliminate this bog. I bought a th350c out of a wrecked 1980 corvette with 40k miles. My new question is, this th350 has a cable on it that is not a th350 kickdown cable...it looks more like the cable used on a 700r4. It's definitely a th350c. It was directly pulled from the car at a yard. Can you make any sense of that?

Hi SP, the same cable is used on both transmissions.

Hi Zane...If you leave the check balls out, the shifts will be markedly firmer as those check balls act as qusai restrictors for timing purposes. Unless you're all out racing with a high stall converter or perhaps doing a full manual application, I'd leave them in and drill the plate's 1-2 and 2-3 feed orifices out per desired shift firmness. Otherwise, leaving the plate factory will yield the smoothest shifts. Thanks for watching!

@@nickstransmissions its going in a k10 with 33 tires, 3.08 gear ratio and a gutless 350. but its always under a load with the tire and gear combo. i tow with it from time to time. so i just want a smooth shift. thank you for taking the time to answer. your content is great. keep it up.

Gotcha...I'd upgrade your final drive ratio to something a bit deeper, perhaps 3.73 gears, if it has 33 inch tires. You'll want the extra mechanical leverage and the engine/transmission will appreciate it to as it will alleviate stress on them at lower RPMs and you'll likely see an improvement in city fuel economy...If you ever do a 700R4 swap, you'll definitely want those 3.73s for when in overdrive.

Hi Chris, thank you for watching...Assuming you're looking to purchase these for a rebuild, you won't need any part numbers, just type in 'TH350 Sun Shell', 'TH350 Intermediate roller clutch, '4L60E center support' if looking to purchase online or on eBay... If you're looking to purchase locally, just let your hard part supplier know what you need and they will provide it off the shelf...If you want the sun shell with the holes cut out, type in 'TH350 Vega Sun Shell'....If you want to purchase a new low roller clutch assembly, type 'Borg Warner 4L60E low roller clutch' and that will bring up what you need. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

I'll also note that some TH350s came with a thick sun shell so if that's what you want, ask for the thick sun shell...I'm thinking part numbers for at least the intermediate roller clutch and 4L60E low roller clutch should be available via a Google search.

Thanks, GLJ…You can build the TH350 to handle 450hp without spending a ton of money. Just follow what I recommend in that “Th350 beef up on a budget” video, including: - Dual feed the direct clutch internally - Install a heavy duty outer sprag race - use high energy clutches in the forward, intermediate and direct (Borg Warner or Raybestos) - Install the Sonnax oversize boost valve kit - Make sure your pump gear clearance is within spec for both drive and driven gear (machine both halves if needed) - Rollerize your pump cover-direct drum thrust surface if your trans originally came with the selective babbit-style thrust washer (pump cover has to be machined for this) - Drill your feed holes sizes based on desired shift firmness, which is based on intended application, final drive ratio, vehicle weight and converter stall speed - if going above 500 hp, do the mods necessary to add clutches to the intermediate and direct clutch

Regular TH350C build? Leave the check ball in place as it's needed for the TCC apply circuit.

The transbrake will have its own instructions for mods to be done internally with the trans (some require more than others) as well as any check balls to retain or toss but generally, if you're running a reverse-pattern manual valve body/trans brake, you would plug the direct feed port and leave the high-reverse free-flowing.

Nope. As mentioned in the video, you either dual feed internally (use this method when trans is out and on the bench) OR dual feed via a HP shift kit like the Transgo 1&2 that uses their own transfer plate to dual feed. Don’t internally dual feed then install a Transgo separator plate designed to dual feed through the plate.

Thanks for the insight and super quick response. I was stumbled on that part.👍

You’re welcome, Steven. Good luck with your build.

The standard screened version is fine.

Hi Josh, I don't sell kits however if you search eBay (TH350 rebuild kits) it will give you a good selection of different kits available for the trans. Some are stock level, others orientated for performance/heavy duty. If you're application involves anything like that, I'd do high energy clutches throughout the the trans and a heavy duty outer sprag race for the intermediate.