taught

Than

Indeed.

When the cylinder has too much fluid it will stop the shock shaft from plunging in completely because there is no more space to fit the shaft. I think it's called "Hydrolock." After filling the cyclinder, when you put the cap on and push the shaft in, the excess fluid coming out is making space, and also creating a vacuum once you fully seal the cap. That's why if you remove the spring from the shock, the shock shaft should suck back into the cylinder a little. And still without the spring, if you push the shaft in 100%, it should rebound back out a little. If it does not rebound slightly and stays in place, it's built with 0 rebound, or in r/c slang, it's a "dead shock." It's a personal preference how you want them, just be sure both front shocks behave the same in this regard, and same with both rear shocks. You want consistency. Hope this helps Mr Ken! -Brett

They probably setup the truck like that to help with landing from big jumps that most people will attempt. If you want faster action, I would try changing the oil first before the pistons. The shocks come with 40wt oil stock; maybe try 30wt? www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-silicone-shock-oil-2oz-30wt-asc5422/p453438?v=1682 -Brett

@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you for the reply. I put the pro spec shocks on my MT10. They came with 1.6mm hole pistons which even with the 40w old they were way to soft and the truck would bottom out. I wound up putting the 1.4mm pistons which is the smallest piston that came with the pro specs and put 35w oil and the seem way more responsive and dont bottom out. Maybe I'll do what you suggested and go back and try the 1.2mm that came with the truck with the 30w oil. When I put the 1.2mm with the 40w oil the truck would bounce when I dropped it because the rebound was so slow. Do either increasing or decreasing the piston mm hole size or increasing or decreasing the shock oil weight essentially do the same thing as far as rebound and stiffness go?

@@chriscarr1647 Yes, changing the piston hole size and changing the fluid essentially do have the same effect. Shock setup is a give and take. A soft quick rebounding setup is better for driving on flat ground and absorbing the bumps and terrain chop, but it is worse for jumping. A shock setup with slow rebounding and heavier fluid is worse for bumps and terrain chop because it reacts slower, but it is better for landing big jumps. How you should setup the shocks really depends on what type of driving you do most I suppose and your goals. And most cars bottom out when landing big jumps so I wouldn't worry too much about that. I recommend sticking to one piston size, and then just adjust the fluid for your desired result. Let me know how it goes. -Brett

@@AMain_HobbiesThank you so much for the informative response. It's so nice to have AMain as a 1 stop shop and go to for all rc needs and technical question. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you again.

@@chriscarr1647 you never let him know 🤷🏼‍♂️

Usually fill it to the top; sometimes a little more depending on the style of shocks. But it's best to consult your owners manual to see what Redcat recommends. -Brett

Thanks 👍

Thx Brett il try to find a sensor less system👍

Hey Brett I got a sensored castle creations motor for Easter I asked for a sensored because I don’t drive it in conditions and I can tune it with the app on a pc with a sidewinder3 esc👍😊

AMain Hobbies hey Brett first run today with a dual battery set up and for 4600kv it’s a really fast motor

Hey Brett can you link a part number for the USB cable for the motor

AMain Hobbies ok thanks is there a place online or a part number would help a lot I have been looking for one -ryan

No. If the shock is filled 50% with oil, the remaining 50% of empty space will be filled with air, which equates to poor and inconsistent shock damping. If you're racing, this will really hinder your track performance, but if your bashing, it's not critical but you might bottom out more. -Brett

@@AMain_Hobbies thanks

Here's a great video from pro racer Adam Drake on how to bleed that shock cap type, called emulsion caps: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zpaig7mg1LzecoE.html -Brett

@@AMain_Hobbies thank you very much!

The piece that hangs out from the metal broke

Rebound? The shock shaft will push back out of the cylinder, when fully pushed in, because of the pressure in the cylinder; we call it rebound. If you bleed your shocks a little more, you can eliminate the rebound and build the shock "dead" as it called, so there is no rebound, no movement. -Brett

Jay Ryan that’s what I was just thinking. I’m researching how to change the fluid for the first time in my UDR and everyone has a different technique or method.

@@edduubb6022 yea because there's no wrong way to do it. If you ask 10 guys how they do it you'll get 10 different answers. It all comes down to personal preference.

You can't say everyone's missing a step and not say what the step is. Why the secrecy?

It might not work. There is a good chance the shocks will leak if they weren't designed to be used with fluid. You'll have to try it out. -Brett

Dunno but i use 35w in my Hpi Bullet shocks.

I would use 30 or 40 weight personally. This typically is kinda the universal weight. Personally I actually use 80 weight in mine but mine is more of a small jumping setup that is better for cornering.

Is the oil thicker whn the number wt is higher or lower?

@@winstonoso5821 Thicker.

@@winstonoso5821 higher # = thicker oil. Lower # = thin oil. Thin oil makes the car much more capable of absorbing an uneven surface but horrible for jumps. Likewise, thicker oils will allow the shock to absorb jumps but will react very slowly over uneven track surfaces. Shock oil is a matter of preference. Start with oils similar in CST as what came with your kit and work either harder or softer depending on your driving needs. Hope this helps.

He likes "vintage" o-rings... ;)

Henrik blu

Uhh yea this video was released in 2012 lmao