Glad it was helpful!

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Thanks for watching!

This is how you remove the peened screws. kzfaq.infoKYe-RboHoco?si=CO0803DeJtWLtWCG

The orange check valve is discontinued. You can’t really find it anywhere. If I were you I would just buy a square body accelerator pump.

These carbs are the same on every other 951 model.

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I have a 1999 seadoo gsx limited with 951

Also where did you get your pressure tester from.

www.osdparts.com for kit. The tester is from SBT.

It’s hard to say without being there in person and diagnosing it. Always start with the three basics… fuel, spark, compression. Then ask yourself when was the last time your carbs were cleaned and rebuilt. Do you still have the original grey fuel lines?

@@2-smoke I don’t know what the problem was but it was definitely something to do with the carbs I just changed out everything in them and cleaned them and they run fine now

Also we have one more problem the linkage when idle tends to slowly move forward without pulling throttle I don’t know if that’s only happening because I am on land or something is wrong it.

The recharge jet is cone shaped. The cone should be facing the direction of the accelerator pump.

@@asthekilnturns6880 please watch my Mikuni accelerator pump video I just posted, that will give you all of the information.

First, off I use 2.0 n/s for all stock 951 carbs. There are 1 or 2 models that use 80 pilots. But, the real reason you should use 80s is because 951 engines crave fuel especially when generating low end torque. Seadoo dropped the pilot size from 80 to 75 after 1998 because of the need to pass EPA emissions tests. The tests are done at idle rpms.. so seadoo’s answer was to lean out the idle by lowering the pilot jet size… they figured the accl pump will prevent any hesitations on take-off.

@@2-smoke thanks

@@brandonfrancesconi-tn6gj send me a message through my Facebook page. I am the only person that sources them.

@@2-smoke great! What’s your Facebook account url?

@@2-smoke what’s your Facebook page called?

@@brandonfrancesconi-tn6gj 2-smoke carb rebuilding

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You probably have a crack in the line going to the pto carb or maybe the injector is clogged.

I wanna say I figured it out, I think I had a leak in the crankcase pressure line. Both sides are getting fuel and I’m going to tune it according to your video at the lake tomorrow. Thanks for the reply you definitely got a sub from me, also mines a grey ghost too but I got like 2.5 minutes out on the water after buying it and blew the motor up lol

What would you charge to do mine off gsx ltd 98 951

@@dwanetune4387 please reach out to my via my fb page

The zip ties are not exposed to light so white is appropriate.

Hello. The non fuel pump side does not require diaphragms. Both BRP and Mikuni service manuals do not provide any indication that diaphragms are used on the non fuel pump side (PTO side for most. The 97.5 GSXL is the only set up I can think of where the fuel pump is set up on the PTO carb). Also, when you buy any genuine Mikuni rebuild kit, you are provided diaphragms only for the fuel pump assembly. This is clearly evident in the micro fiches provided by Mikuni in the package. I am confused why you think they suggest otherwise. Looking at the anatomy and physiology of the design, fuel needs only to travel from the fuel inlet and then through the filter or through the out-fitting (to the other carb). The formed O-Ring and the aluminum casting is all that is required to create a nice seal. Hope this helps.

@@2-smoke Thanks for your reply! This is good info. I think some of the confusion is that Mukuni sells only one rebuild kit. When you buy two of them to rebuild both carbs, it'll have two sets of them. I have the micro fiches from the Mukuni kits, but it doesn't mention the carbs may be rebuilt differently. I ultimately fault Sea Doo for this as I think they should have mentioned it in the service manual. I think when you look at the micro fiches that are included, and it shows the diaphragm and gasket going over the o'ring and fuel filter, it leads one to believe both carbs would get the same treatment. I've also watched every carb rebuild video on KZfaq I could find, and no one has mentioned this, until your video. In fact, most simply indicate or imply that you build both carbs the same way! I've also read a lot of rebuild threads on the forums, and I don't remember anyone mentioning either. Nonetheless, it's good info, so thanks for sharing!

Also, do you think it does any damage to use them (ie. alter the performance of the carb), or are you simply just wasting the diaphragm and gasket by using them?

Ski might stall/shut off due to fuel starvation.

@@drysj yes

Opening the low or high speed adjuster screws will richen the fuel-air mixture. But I doubt thats why you cant rev past 4000 rpms. If your carbs were insanely rich, you would be fouling plugs quickly. I would look at checking the following: Oil pump is hooked up, working properly (not clogged); MPEM and Voltage Regulator; Double check your carb settings. Should be factory. Do you know what size jets you have? Just food for thought...

@@2-smoke I bought this ski couple months ago supposedly ran got it home throttle cable was broke at the oil injection pump put a new cable on started it wouldnt idle acted like it was half trottle, problem was the throttle butterfly and throttle shaft was bent on the flywheel side of the motor got a used carb rebuilt both carbs and ran it today on the lake seemed to run rich to me and plugs were wet

@@sprintcardriver8 there’s a lot to unwind here… lol, because I’m not physically seeing and working on it, it’s hard for me to give you further direction.

@@2-smoke I guess I will have to check the high speed needles to make sure there 0 turns out my lows were at 1 1/2 never checked pop off pressure after rebuild used the same springs that were in the carb before rebuilding them and go from there

Also jets sizes should be stock because it has the stock spark arrestor on it, need to make sure my rave valves are opening and I don't have a check valve bad

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