Nice

Thank you Kalo

Bro I used electric iron in my case. :D plus.google.com/116486437098284300502/posts/HsBTHrqg3J6

BTW. Thank you also for the tutorial. :D

Your account bro deserves a verification :D God Bless.

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you rajun, please let us know how your project turns out :)

Thank you Sample Text..

Thank you

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks Bugdozer, good lux with your projects :)

You mean ewectric not electric.;)

Matt Smith Hi there, I’ve been subscribed for a while and have bought a couple of torches that you’ve recommended, thank you. Please don’t shoot me down but but before I was educated by yourself I’d bought an Ultrafire® 7x XM-L T6 7000 Lumens can torch!! Typically the LEDs have died. I’ve put a multimeter on there circuitry and there is power all the way to the PCB so I’ve assumed the LEDs are dead! Using this procedure with the hot plate/frying pan can you recommend a replacement led that I can use. I don’t know whether you know the torch but basically the Aluminium heart sink that the LEDs are on is 45mm diameter, there is one pos & neg soldered to the board that shows 1.5v to 4.2v depending on the mode! 7 (I guess T6 LEDs) flowed to the board which is just plain white. It would be great to upgrade the LEDs if possible which is where I need your help!! The only issue is that there is no way of knowing the orientation of the LEDs to decipher which is pos & neg! One more question........ do you send to the UK? I’m interested in your Mag upgrades as my step father and Dad both have 2 C cell Maglites. Keep up the great work you’re doing, I love your enthusiasm.

Thank you for letting me know.

Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help :)

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the feedback. I like your avatar BTW....

Thanks bud, its from my days back in the day when i used to run a youtube show... 30k subs back when subs were rare lol

Hi i am forget to said thanks

Hi Waleed. The T6 was a designation for an XML emitter. If that is what was in your light, then I would say using an XML2 U4 would be your best bet, if you will be using the same driver board etc. It's several brightness bins above the T6. asflashlights.com/30-xm-l2

Thank you Hampus.

Cutter electronics sells mcpcbs that are copper that will take 3 XHP50s. Not exactly what your looking for, but they can be wired in series.

Hi Rex. That LED would not need to be reflow soldered to an mcpcb, but it dies need to be attached to a heat sink. I would either use arctic silver 5 and fasten it down with something or use Arctic alumina 2 part epoxy and glue it down. Make sure in either cases you use a very thin layer of the epoxy and that your metal heat sink surface is smooth and flat. The epoxy: asflashlights.com/more-/122-arctic-alumina-2-part-epoxy.html

Thank You! That Helps! Appreciate It!

I think that would probly work. As long as you can move the soda can up and down to adjust the heat.

Woot :)

Yes, that would also work. It would be a good idea to add a bit of flux between the joints before reheating.

You can still do the same thing. There is a thin membrane of the same dome material on them. Just clean it with alcohol when your done to get rid of any oil and dirt from touching it.

Mouser and digikey are both good sources for bare LEDs. For 35.2 preloaded on a star I would check Mtnelectronics, Cutter electronics and Kaidomain. These are typcially the first places to stock a newer LED already loaded on an MCPCB.

Yes, the prcocess is the same, just make sure you get the + and - orientation correct. On an XPG2 the black dot shows the battery negative, on XPG3 it shows the battery pos side.

oK got it thanks!!

Everyone owns a cooker anyway.

Fahrenheit. Here is the data sheet for the paste www.kester.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=1523&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96 I purchased it at CML supply.

Thanks a lot!

The LED will be sitting up high on a blob of solder and you wont get good thermal transfer to the mcpcb.

The solder "sucks" itself to the metal part of the MCPCB and LED, that "extra stuff" will just disappear. You would have to put on really thick "sausages" of solder paste to get it wrong. For me, it works every time, just like he demonstrates.

Yeah you want to do it a quick as possible (apart from the heatup)

It can work, you have to be careful that it doesn't cool off too quickly

Actually if i was to go ahead and do it I have several electric skillets as well as corded and cordless heatguns an a remote ir temperature gun. An if I lost most all my tools I could probably use my titanium multifuel camping stove. I can use premixed under pressure butane/propane, gas, diesel, everclear, acetone, denatured alcohol, white gas, moonshine, as well as straight propane. It came with 5 pots/pans made of titanium, titanium potholders, a titanium pressure cooker, and over 15 titanium tent stakes

It wasnt cheap. In 1999it cost me $225 after 10% discount and another 20% off and the $25s off . For another 40 dollars they added a second identical cooking that I gave my mom. I had a titanium 38 revolver that I really didnt like since it kicked hard and if I had actually had to use it it lacked the power and penetration to do anything besides making the bear pissed. Almost every time all we had to do was stand up and make alot noise. Once I had to fire a few shots off also which I made sure had no chance of hitting it. If it had hit him that would have shown how pathetic it actually was. Also they really seemed afraid of my camera's flash. Ive inow several peoplewho had to kill problematic bears who had developed a taste for human's that had a empty can of bear spray in their stomach.