dude, thanks to your video i just successfully pulled off my very first refretting. and it turned out way better than i hoped for. thank you so much.

Just found your channel and it is amazing!! Subscribing this instant 😂❤️

Mate that was awesome, well done, nice and clear and good video

Great tutorial, you make the project seem doable for a new bee like myself

Much appreciated! ~ You have a talent for sharing your knowledge in an easy to understand, comfortable way. I have just ordered the luthier tools needed to re-fret my 5 yr old PRS. Yes, worn down after 5 years! Stainless steel here I come lol

Best Video I've Seen, Gonna Do It On Mine 🙌

Great video! Thanks for showing the whole process... May I ask to have the list of the tools on your next video? Just as a recap :) Thanks!

Awesome Thanx so much rock on ✌🏻

Best refretting video ! No tricks hidden and all the tools (which maybe expensive and hard to find from local Depo) shown. Hands down ! Everyone can do it ! Btw: Please show link or description for those 2 plyers used for pulling and cutting frets ?

Probbably the most thorough fret tutorial on YT!Even covered fallaway!Thanks!Do one for compound radius necks!

Great video! Thanks!

Yes, you had a LOT of pullout at the edges of the fret channels. Next time moisten the fret with purified water warmed to about 120F with a 1/8 inch wide hobby paint brush. Give the water about 10 seconds to seep under both sides of the frets. Not too much water else you may warp the wood. This softens the wood at the fret barbs. Place a thin stainless steel slotted fret guard over the fret to protect the fret board... then with a 40 W (adjustable is better) soldering iron with a 1/4 inch flat tip (no solder) heat one edge of the fret, sliding the iron back and forth across the entire fret putting more heat at the edge you are starting from and less heat to the other end. You may get a tiny bit of steam as you heat the fret. The fret at the warmest side should be very uncomfortable to touch but not buring the wood. This will soften any glue holding the fret in and even if no glue was used, heating helps. Use a high quality fret puller (nothing but an actual fret puller) and carefully work up the hotter end of the fret just a fraction of the fret height. Remove the slotted fret guard and slip a stainless steel narrow slot fret guard under where the fret just pulled up. This guard reaches under the fret sides so that further pulling will not break out (chip) the wood around the fret channel where you are pulling. Reheat the fret just ahead of were you have started to pull up the fret.. slide the fret guard forward under toward the next spot to be lifted and use the fret puller there and lift up the fret another fraction of its height.. Add water and heat as needed and keep working the fret guard and puller across the fret about 3 millimeters or so across and a fraction of the height upward at a time. Work slowly especially at the fret ends. With the proper tools, technique, and practice you should master this very delicate skill after a few guitars. Practice on a guitar that has been pretty much scraped because you will make mistakes at first. This requires sight, sound, feel, and smell. Taste is the only sense that is not needed. I made a 1/2 inch wide curved tip (same radius of the frets) for my soldering iron that has a groove in it to keep it on the fret as I slide it across.

Great tutorial! it would be of great help if you could also show how to proceed with refretting an LP style guitar with glued neck instead of bolt on neck.

Great video man! Very helpful and informative! May I ask what sandpaper grit did you use for sanding the fretboard after you removed the frets? Thanks! Greetings from Greece!

12th fret trick! Nice!

Nice work… For some of the very final polishing, particularly with the linseed oil, I would probably use microfibre cloths rather than paper towel as paper towel can have fibres that can scratch as well. Micro fibre won’t leave paper tuffs behind. Just some thoughts. BTW, there are two kinds of linseed oil. One is better than the other because it doesn’t gum up… just not sure which.

very nice tutorial! looks super nice congratulations! I just wonder what kind of Oil are you using for the fretboard? :/

Thank you !

hey man, many thanks for the informative video. I do have a few questions though: - May I know why you used a flat sanding beam instead of the radiused block when you leveled the frets? -Is it necessary to level the frets after seating them in? I've seen some videos where they don't level the frets anymore as long as they are seated properly and there is no rocking when checking them with a fret rocker -When do you stop sanding the frets during the leveling process? Do you stop when all the sharpie is gone from the frets?

Thanks buddy, this was very useful. And that trick with creating a fallaway from the 12th fret to the higher ones - it might be just the thing I need, nobody mentions that in fact, in other tutorials. I have this issue with my Telecaster, where I get choking frets after approximately the 12th fret, while I'm bending, on first two strings. I bought the straightedge, did some fret levelling, but the issue is still there if I want the action to be anything lower than let's say 1.5mm-2mm, on the E and B string. Maybe I should redo it, but only form the 12th fret this time.

Good format, these are going to be great, thanks! You will have plenty of opportunities in future builds for better video shots. The home brew idea is needed, many people mistakenly think that limited tools and space prevent them from doing what they want. Most people ,once realizing they aren't as limited as they thought, will get creative. That's really the key, creativity, it's more of a learned skill than I thought it was in the beginning. Just try.

thank you man

Great video. Most videos on this subject strongly recommend glueing each fret with CA glue. You don't think it's that important?

Excellent. I will look to see if you have done a higher res video. The view of seeing the bottom of the new frets would be nice, and your reasoning for why you keep all of the old frets in order. I assume that it’s not about the length or the height. Were you going from standard height frets to jumbo size frets? Is there any difference in the process when going from standard to jumbo? Anyway, your detail and communication skills, made your video very enjoyable to watch. I think it was 22 minutes long, but it felt like 5. In other words it was very interesting.

Awesome video man!! 2 quick questions...what grit paper is on your sanding block and does it hurt the inlays or scratch them? Thanks

400 grit will cut very quickly, for polishing I recommend 1500 or 2000 grit. The fall away is a phenomenal consideration. I'm considering doing stainless frets on a guitar but I've never refretted just fret jobs.

One more question, I've seen as luthiers curve out their fretwire before cutting and installing them. Would that be a must as well?

did you bend the frets to match the neck?my very old first guitar need said refret I've owned it 56 years so she deserves it

Thanks. I have a new appreciation of why a fret job is so $$.

What triangular file do you recomend? thanks for this great tutorial

How about lacquered necks? I imagine I have to skip sanding down the fretboard?

I cant wait to have this done on my Guitar. Had it 19 years, and the poor thing cant intonate for nothing any more. and of course, the flattest part of every fret down the board is the G string.

When filing down the ends of the frets, how do you not damage the fret board?

So the leveling beam at 12:13 is not radiused, it is dead flat? The thing I am trying to understand is how using a flat sanding beam doesn't remove the radius of the frets. Thanks!

One of my fret line i guess that's what is called is almost coming off. I can afford a refret or have the tools to do it myself. It's it possible to somehow level the same old fretline . Like can i remove that one and put it back in?😭

Shots every time he says “of sorts”

Do you relieve the truss-rod tension before refretting?

Very nicely done. Enough information to get me started on the job without a lot of extraneous stuff. It was really nice to write down a list of the tools I'll need as you went through the process.

Do I have to make the fret iron concave? Or does it take the shape of the keyboard when we nail it with glue? There is no practical tool for this at home.

Where’d you get a periphery coffee mug… I want one

What type of glue was used for the frets?

Do install all fret with the hammer only?

How would you balance off the maple fretboard?? It has finishes on so I don't want to sand down the fretboards

Is there a particular reason you didn't heat the frets before removing them?

What grit sand paper did you use on the fretboard?

what type of oil was used on the fretboard?

How long did it take you?

How can you possibly be doing fretwork when House is on TV...? OMG, the humanity...

You didn't start leveling before making neck flat? If you did flatten neck show that to not confuse your audience.

"I have no idea what I am doing, I know, I will do a DIY video that showcases how shit I am at what I am trying to explain!" -OP

Erm do we really have to remove the nut? O_O I just wanted to remove the frets on my guitar neck

Lmao I did the same 💩 Tried to do my first fret leveling and completely flattened them

I have a guitar with 15.75in radius and I can't even find a radius gauge for it. I have a 16in but that is not 15 and three quarters. :/

Did you use pre radius feet wire?,

yeah... nevermind

My dumb ass will buy all the tools then completely fuck this up and wind up taking it to someone who knows what they’re doing. I’ll stick to wiring electronics 😂😂😂

nutr

Title said minimal tools. $100 worth hmmm

You left out the most important part. Pity.