So glad to hear that! If you have any needs or questions down the road just let us know, thanks!

Wonderful to hear. Thanks so much for your comment. Any questions or assistance needed down the road please let us know. Appreciated.

@@EarthSense Hello again..Since you asked,I recently purchased a new Made in the USA igniter for my 2014 P43 Harman from Pellethead on Amazon as a backup.My stove takes about 5-7 minutes to lite and once lit I usually use the Stove temp setting. I like having the constant steady heat.I clean the igniter fairly often and make sure the holes above it are not plugged..I burn about 40 bags/yr as my stove is not my main heating source.......My question is ....do you think I should replace the igniter soon ?Thanks

@@deg050607 Thanks for the message. Sounds like you're doing a great job with your maintenance. In my opinion it doesn't hurt to have a spare igniter, however with as little as you use it, you should still have great life expectancy moving forward with the one in the unit. Starting time sounds normal at 5-7 minutes. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks so much!

Certainly our pleasure. Very glad to hear it was helpful and your stove is back up and running great again! Cheers,

Excellent! So happy to hear that Maria! Any other questions or needs just let us know! Warm regards

@@EarthSense Thank you, I will!

Excellent, love to hear that Norman! Any other questions please let us know. Thank You!

What symptoms were you having?

Thanks so much! Very glad it was helpful for you! Any other questions please let us know.

Thank you so much! Very glad to hear they have been helpful. Much appreciated.

Thanks Alexander! Happy to hear it was helpful! Any questions down the road just let us know. Thanks!

Excellent to hear Brian, so glad they have been helpful! We'll have a handful of new Harman instructional videos coming out all this month. Thanks so much!!

Thanks for contacting us David. With the ESP Probe there is different millivolt readings at different temperatures. The only true way to test the ESP Thermistor is with the Harman DDM Tool - Basically this is a mini diagnostic computer for Harman stoves that most dealers will have. If there is a local dealer you could check with them to see if they have this DDM tool. With what you are describing, I would say the issue has to do with either your ESP, Circuit Board, or a combo of the two. I would lean towards this being an ESP issue though. For reference, here is a link that will show the different ESP probes we offer. pellethead.com/?s=esp Keep us posted, happy to assist however we can. Thanks,

Hey Jasper, thanks for contacting us. We can definitely make a note regarding that video suggestion. In the time being, if you are receiving the 4 status blink for the room sensing probe, more than likely there is an issue there. Double check the connections where it plugs into the unit first off. If the stove is running fine on manual mode, but still giving the blinks in room temp mode, then more than likely that probe has failed. Although not extremely common we do see replacement of the room probe needed on occasion. Here are links if you need to purchase a new Room Temp Probe - We guarantee the best price with the fastest shipping. OEM - pellethead.com/product/harman-room-air-temp-sensor-thermostat-sensing-probe-wire/ Aftermarket - pellethead.com/product/harman-room-air-temp-sensor-thermostat-sensing-probe-wire-2/ Hope that helps, any other questions or assistance needed please let us know. Thanks,

Thanks for contacting us Paul. Yes, we do have a video on removing the Harman Auger Shaft - Here is a link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJOmith9zZ_eknk.html Any questions please let us know. Thanks!

Hey D, thanks for the message. Yes, buildup over time can accumulate to a point where it makes it difficult to remove/pull the ESP Probe out. My suggestion would be to slowly twist it back and forth with a little force pulling it up as you do so. Should break off the build-up and allow you to pull it out. Just want to make sure that you do not bend it all. You could also remove the quick disconnect cast iron hub and use a piece of steel wool from the inside of the exhaust to try to clean it a bit to make it easier to pull out. Let us know if you are able to get it out, happy to assist.

Thanks for contacting us. It's normal for the combustion fan to run for an hour or so after shutdown with a Harman, however if it continues to run while the stove is cold, then most likely we would have an ESP probe issue or a potential control board issue. I would start by cleaning the ESP probe and see if anythig changes. If not, then I would recommend replacing the ESP probe first. If you do need to replace, pay attention to the wire color of the probe to ensure you get the correct replacement. Reference: RED: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-red-wire/ BLACK: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-black-wire/ Keep us posted, happy to help!

You're most welcome! If you need anything else just let us know. :)

Thanks for contacting us. Checked with our technical team on this. They are saying it's either your ESP Probe or the Circuit board here. Suggest trying a new ESP probe first and if the same issue persists then a new circuit board replacement. Our aftermarket red ESP is $19.99. Let us know what you find, happy to assist.

@@EarthSense Replaced the ESP with no fix. Took the board to get components bench tested, micro processor on the broad is shot, it is a replaceable item but would be no way of getting software for reprogramming from Harman. New board ordered through you guys! Thanks for the help. What surge protector would you guys recommend for these stoves?

@@nattyseats6583 Glad to hear you found the root of the problem. Any questions once you receive the control board please let us know. For a Surge Protector, we recommend something of at least 1000 Joules. Here is the one we offer for reference. pellethead.com/product/belkin-surgecube-outlet-surge-protector-1080-joules/ Any other questions please let us know. Happy to help. Thank you so much!

@@EarthSense Thanks!

@@nattyseats6583 Absolutely Bud! Keep us posted!

Thanks for the message. I have not seen varying grits with the scotch brite pads. Should be completely OK using a standard scotch brite pad that you would find in the kitchen section at the grocery store. If you use steel wool, you will want a very fine grit; triple OOO would be my recommendation. Any other questions let us know. Thanks!

You're most welcome!

Awesome! Thanks for Subscribing - more videos to come!

Thanks for the message. In most cases that would be an issue with the ESP Thermistor Probe yes. 1st clean it with steel wool or a scotch bright pad. If the problem persists I would suggest purchasing a new ESP. Any other questions let us know.

Thanks for contacting us, apologies on the delay on our end. Igniter: So are you physically viewing the igniter to be cherry red after the stove lights? Or do you hear the air pump continuing to run after start-up? Ignition and air pump start-up and shut down timing sequence is a part of the circuit board programming. Low Burn & No Distribution Fan: Based on what you are describing it sounds like proper signal is not being delivered on Room Temp. Being it runs fine on Stove Temp, I would say first things would be cleaning the ESP probe and checking the room sensing probe connections. It's odd that 30% of the time it's working... Makes me potentially think it's some kind of intermittent connection issue or sensing issue with the ESP. 6 Blinks: Is going to indicate an issue with incomplete combustion after a period of time. Generally happens when exhaust temps are lower than normal for a period of time. Again, this could be the ESP probe needing a good cleaning or possibly replaced or again happening when the unit is going into the low fire with no distribution blower after start-up. Let's check the ESP and Room Sensor before we start looking at a potential control board issue. Keep us posted! Thanks

Hey Pete, thanks for the suggestion, we can certainly add that to our upcoming video list. The Harman line is unique in the sense that it brings the glass air wash from the air intake internally, whereas other stove lines will use room air for the air wash. Generally speaking the air wash doesn't require much of any maintenance. By the bottom of your door on the P68, the door frame will have a small gap for the air wash. Periodically one could use a can of pressurized air to clean that gap out, but generally speaking air is always being blown out of that cavity on to the glass so it's very rare that it would get clogged up or blocked. The type of pellets you are using will make the biggest difference on how often that glass needs to be cleaned - you'll notice a big difference between different pellets. I always suggest that after cleaning the glass with a cleaner, to wipe the glass back off with a wet paper towel, this will keep the glass cleaner longer. Hope that helps, and thanks again for the video suggestion!

@@EarthSense thanks for getting back to me. Im burning easyblaze softwood and they burn with little ash but my glass gets dirty lot quicker then cleanfire hardwood from last year. Im guessing its the softwood pellets.

@@petem5164 Hey Pete, yeah there is a lot of variation within pellets and within hardwood types and softwood types. Most of our customers burn a pine/spruce pellet or a douglas fir pellet, however we offer some hardwoods and some folks love them. I always suggest to try 3-4 bags of one brand, make some notes, clean the the unit and then try 3-4 bags of another. You'll notice big differences in heat output, ash content, burnpot buildup and glass buildup. I will also say that with any stove and any pellet the glass will get dirtier quicker when operating on lower settings. A good remedy is to crank the unit up from time to time when running on low settings consistently - burning it hot for 5-15 minutes does a nice job on clearing the glass a bit. Hope that helps, thanks!

@@EarthSense thanks ill keep that in mind.

I just did a fair amount of research on this. For TRENTON I was only able to find gas stove models which are made by Pacific Energy. I did find Grand Teton as a company that makes pellet stoves. I'm thinking this is what you have. Here is a website that will provide more info and contact. You should be able to reach out and get an owners manual to get started. www.grandtetoncollection.com/ Unfortunately we have never carried this line and don't have any information on it. Hope this is helpful. Thanks!

Hey Ryan, Happy to help. If it appears it's feeding less fuel on the #2 Stove Temp Setting or that it's not feeding the same as it once was, I would suggest checking the sawdust cleanout box and pulling out the feed slide plate for inspection. The sawdust cleanout box is located behind the auger motor and has a wingnut or two (depending on the age) that holds the cover on. Vacuum that area out. Clean your hopper all the way out and check the slide plate and throat area at the bottom of the hopper. See if there are any obstructions of any sort. Let us know what you find. Thanks.

@@EarthSense thank you for the reply. I have taken everything apart and cleaned it to make sure there wasn't anything in there stopping the pellets from coming to the burn pot. I didn't see anything that would cause the issue I also cleaned the prob inside the exhaust pipe that didn't change anything either.

@@ryan84morin Let's ask a few more questions. We'll figure this out. 1. Any recent changes in pellet fuel or noticing a difference between bags in color or dramatic length difference in the fuel? 2. What does your fire look like? When it's on 2 or if you turn it to 6 - is it crisp and torchy producing a grayish/white ash inside and on the glass or is it lazy in anyway producing blackish soot/ash? Do you feel it's feeding properly on the other settings such as 1, 3,4,5,6 in Stove Temp Mode? Or does it seem off on all the Stove Temp Feed settings?

Thanks for the message. Happy to help. Are you running your Accentra in Stove Temp Mode or Room Temp Mode? Is your igniter toggle switch on auto or manual?

@@EarthSense thanks for the quick reply. I am running in stove temp and auto ignite

@@keithlacy2631 Thanks for the message Keith. If we have the temperature dial down low in Stove temp mode the distribution fan will not come on. Let's do a test and switch the unit over to room temp mode. Let us know if the blower is coming on when the unit is in room temp mode operation. Thanks!

@@EarthSense many thanks - that was exactly it! Awesome videos and guidance

@@keithlacy2631 Fantastic to hear Keith! Glad we were able to help. This may be another helpful vid as we take a deep dive on the Harman controls - feel free to check it out and if you have any questions down the line just let us know. Appreciated! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mcB1pdGryZuXeXU.html

Thanks for contacting us. By air sensor are you referring to the ESP Thermistor Exhaust Probe or the Room Temperature Probe? I would suggest checking the outlet voltage and polarity first - possibly test another appliance on that outlet to rule out an issue with the electrical coming in. From there inspect the stove wall cord - make sure there are no cracks or breaks and the electrical connection inside the stove looks good and all connectors are secured properly. From there check all of the electrical connections to the control board - make sure nothing is loose. If all of this looks 100% then I would suggest contacting the dealer the new board and ESP were purchased from and have them tested. Could possibly be a manufacturer defect in the new board, however that's an extremely rare scenario. Check the simple things first and keep us posted. Make sure to have the stove unplugged when working with the circuitry in the stove.

Also, when you say emergency shutdown, does all power go off to the stove or are there still lights on the control board? If you are seeing lights and power still coming to the stove during the emergency shutdown, let's take a close look at the combustion blower/exhaust fan. If this motor was faulty and intermittently turning off when it got hot it would create this issue but you would still have power coming to the stove and certain lights would be on. Provide us some further specifics and we should be able to narrow in a bit better. Thanks.

Thanks,

@@paulbramucci7586 Sure thing, happy to help.

I had the stove just shut down again causing the house to smell smokey, status light blinking 2x . After 20 minutes it just starts up again. I cleaned the stove, changed circuit board, low draft pressure switch, I'm going to order a esp probe and try that next . Any ideas

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Yes, build-up on the ESP Probe could cause this 6 blink fault. We have seen faulty ESP probes that cause this issue as well. How does your fire look when it is burning? Is it crisp and torchy, or lazy and sooty? Check your door and ash pan gaskets as well to ensure they are sealing tightly. Inspect your burnpot holes to ensure they are all open. Let's start there - keep us posted. Thanks, Mr. Pellethead

@@EarthSense Fire is perfect. Everything checks out except for the probe and no way to check its function except to see what isn't working - after using scotchbright carefully on the probe and reinstalling it a new problem developed - the fire was great but no distro blower. Stove eventually shut down with usual 6 blink. Next step is to order a new ESP. Any issue with using the aftermarket one rather than OEM?

@@congregationalchurcheastsumner Yes, it seems that our ESP probe is the culprit. We have had pretty good success with our aftermarket probes and they offer a longer warranty than OEM. Just be sure to order the same wire color probe as what you have (black or red) Keep us posted on everything. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us Mike. I would lean towards the ESP probe based on what you mentioned. Give it a good cleaning first and see if anything changes. Be sure to make note of the ESP probe wire color if you do need to purchase a replacement. Keep us posted, happy to help!

@@EarthSense I gave it a good cleaning and still doing same thing. I have one on order should be here soon. It wouldn’t be any of the pressure switches right? I also noticed the arm that rotates when the auger comes on never touches that little switch on the down cycle if that makes any sense. Any thoughts on this ? Thanks again

@@mikebarry3491 Hey Mike, the only two components in your Harman that will control the shut down cycle will be the ESP and Control Board. Vacuum switch would not come into play here. Hmmm.. I'm not sure what switch you are referring to when the auger arm rotates. Would you be able to take a quick video of it and send me the link? Appreciated. Also, I do want to mention with the early control boards used in the P-Series, such as the P61, that when you turn the stove off, it is known to throttle down and hold a fire for anywhere from 1-5 hours before it finally shuts off. In your case I think this is a new finding for you that the stove won't shut down which is why I am leaning towards this issue being with the ESP probe. Let me ask, prior to this, how long did it take for your P61 to shut off once you turned the control dial to off?

@@EarthSense thanks for you help and response. It will usually take couple hours to shut off completely but it would usually stop feeding pellets in 20 minutes or so. How can I send you a video or pictures? Thanks again hopefully my esp probe will be here tomorrow

@@mikebarry3491 Ok yeah Mike, that sounds about right. If able/willing, take a quick video on your phone, upload it to your own KZfaq channel - you can mark as private or unlisted and send me the link in the thread here. Appreciated.

So glad to hear that Kip! Any other questions as you go, please let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. That does not sound normal. The probe should be one solid unit, not in a sleeve. Here is what the replacement probes look like for reference. - Black ESP: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-black-wire/ -Red ESP- pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-red-wire/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Hello and thank you, I can't send a picture on KZfaq do you have Email?

@@scottw.7441 Sure thing. Please send your picture to info@pellethead.com. I can follow up once it is received and reviewed. Appreciated.

@@EarthSense Sent it Thanks Again

@@EarthSense I found where they changed my probe in 2013 the part number is 3-20-11744. Thanks

Thanks for contacting us Douglas. Happy to help you troubleshoot the issue here and find the solution. When the stove is off and you turn the feed adjuster dial to TEST, is your blower pushing out air at full capacity? Knowing this will help us determine the next areas to look at. Keep us posted. Thanks

@@EarthSense No increase in airflow when in test. Took the back off while running, dist blower light on, blower not turning, when try to turn by hand is hard to turn, dist blower must be junk.

@@douglassprague8410 Thanks for the message Douglas. Yes, sounds like we have an issue with the blower here. When it's tight like that, I would say 99% of the time it indicates the bearings are shot in the motor. You can pull the motor/fan out and do a direct test. This would let us know for certain if it's the motor. Here is a link to create a test cord if you want to try that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNKdnKaKrpi7gJ8.html. If you need a replacement blower, we offer the OEM as well as a sealed bearing aftermarket. OEM: pellethead.com/product/harman-xxv-xxv-tc-p35i-accentra-cast-distribution-blower-fan-oem/ Aftermarket: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-xxv-xxv-tc-p35i-accentra-cast-distribution-convection-blower-fan/ Please keep us posted!

@@EarthSense Took the distribution blower out, hard wired to a test lead and all I get is a buzz, no turning, I assume the motor is fried? It does not free wheel if I give it a manual spin, there is some resistance when turning it.

Thank you for the help. I ordered the after market version, I hope it works as well as the OEM version, I would rather by quality but at 1/2 the price of the OEM version I had to give it a try, the stove is getting older and who knows what the future brings for this stove its been a great stove zero problems bought it new 8-10 years ago. Getting the blower out wasn't all that intuitive but once I figured out what bolts to loosen it dropped right out. INSTRUCTIONS...Disconnect 2 power leads (grey and blue) inside back panel on left side, they are the ones right there easy to disconnect, Loosen 2 bolts on right side underneath behind door spring, remove 2 inner bolts (black) on bottom left side, unit will drop right out, there are 2 bolts more outbound not them. Slide unit to right to clear bottom.

Thanks for contacting us. This sounds like an electrical issue. Have you checked the voltage coming from the wall outlet? Have you checked the polarity of the wall outlet? Make sure you are not using an extension cord with the stove. Check the main molex wire harness going into the circuit board. Also check the ESP Probe Wire connections and Thermostat Wires that connect to the board. Something may be loose or not fitting tight. Check all the basics first. From there if the problem persists it could be a circuit board issue at hand. Keep us posted, happy to help.

@@EarthSense Wow !! you are amazing ! I pushed on all the connectors going into the circuit board & afterward it started. If it stops again, I can do something more thorough. Can I send you a check or something ? It is incredibly nice of you to help this way.

@@visualmusicsystems4785 Fantastic to hear! The fact you saved time, money and are warm again is my payment and that's what we are here for, to help. If you have any future questions or needs please let us know. Thanks again and warmest regards :)

Dan, Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. I would suggest you turn your feed adjuster to TEST and see if the distribution fan runs. If it does not, I would then suggest pulling the blower out and making a test cord so you can plug it direct into the wall (we have a video on our page that will show you how to make a test cord if needed). See if it runs with direct power. If it does not, then yes, you need a new blower. If it does, then we will want to take a closer look at your control board and ESP probe. If you do need a new blower, here is a link - we guarantee the best prices on all Harman parts and accessories pellethead.com/product/harman-xxv-xxv-tc-p35i-accentra-cast-distribution-convection-blower-fan/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

The ESP Thermistor Probe will accumulate ash and build-up as fuel is burned in the unit. This build-up can affect the probes ability to sense temperature accurately and delivery proper signal to the control board throughout various points of operation. Any other questions please let us know Doug. Appreciated!

Happy to help Mike. Does your P38 have the analog turn knob control board or does it have the LED thermostatic style control board? It does sound like it is not recognizing Proof of Fire, which would be indicated by the ESP probe and communicated to the control board to transition into normal operation mode. To me it does sound like the ESP sensor may be bad, but let me know your control board type and I can run it past our techs to make sure. Thanks,

@@EarthSense Analog turn knobs, no LEDs on panel or on board. The unit is at least 15 years old, "P38+" . How can I tell if its the ESP vs. the Pressure switch? Thanks for your help!

@@mikeflood9128 Thanks Mike, happy to help! I'm 99% sure that on the analog P38 control board, that if the pressure switch was tripped or faulty, it would not feed at all including start-up. I'm double checking with our lead techs on that to make sure. My instinct says it's an ESP probe issue, but let me follow-up with you as soon as I hear from them. Thanks!

@@mikeflood9128 Hey Mike, our lead tech just got back to me. Yes, if the pressure switch was tripped or faulty the unit would not feed at all. He stated that in some cases replacing the ESP solved the problem in this type of instance you are experiencing. He also stated that more times than not with the early P38 analog board that replacing the ESP by itself did not solve the problem and that it was a combination of the control board and the ESP probe. The original Analog P38 control board is no longer manufactured by Harman. There is now a retro-fit kit replacement with the LED thermostatic control board. My suggestion would be you can try the ESP replacement, but if you are still running into the same issue the control board would need to be replaced as well. I'll put links below for you for reference. Be sure to pay close attention to the wire color on your ESP to ensure you get the correct replacement. Any other questions please let us know. ESP Options: pellethead.com/?s=harman+ESP&__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=d5b0f6dc9517cf0b9993cf10060b6030a8e36f37-1603407163-0-AR81n7iDdRlOGMuiepo62jffGJAuEQpqzg7uD2KlzQ8kAXHezqqCnxHHnmo5h-n4C0UMVVFnGI6Sweh9fKyKw2QivPZiME-A3cJF0UAqXKzCTQw8vvpwGJ9MFxmEpR1Q_umKsums5JqmOkEQ2H30zaVfAulgqcGDOU9x75HkWcRO3hLx1K0_FU3koGQV_Vbm9Rj829ioh_C5vaCgWdgqWrmgyWpq-YRuULZNuSD_wET5hzq_c3A3GlCLXZ9hhN2xkaek4w7yDFmY2rlgo0KKveBx1PWSFUKdtgd4TEr13li- P38 Retro-Fit Control Board: pellethead.com/product/harman-p38-circuit-board-retrofit-upgrade-kit-pre-serial-008190059-oem/

@@EarthSense GOOD NEWS!!! :) I ordered the ESP sensor from your link above, installed it, and PRESTO! Works like a charm. Good thing because its getting cold here in MA! Thanks a "Ton", you were a big help... Mike

Hey John, based on what you are describing I would lean towards it being an ESP probe issue, but let me touch base with our tech team once they are back in the office tomorrow and follow up. We'll get this figured out with you. Thanks.

ok great, thanks for the quick response..!

@@labob65 Good Morning John. I just spoke with our lead tech on this. Given everything you mentioned and the fact you just recently replaced the control board and combustion fan, we are highly leaning towards it being an ESP probe issue here. The ESP is constantly monitoring temps in the exhaust and giving readings back to the control board for proper operation. If we are still having an issue after the new ESP is installed we will want to take a look at the vacuum switch and all of the seals in the stove, but again we are highly leaning towards the culprit of the issue being the ESP. We offer both the OEM and aftermarket ESP probes. There is both a black and red wire ESP, make sure you are purchasing the same wire color as the one currently in your stove. Here is a link to review them - pellethead.com/product-category/parts/stove-parts-parts-2/harman-stove-parts-parts-2/switches-sensors/ Keep us posted, we will make sure everything is 100%. Thanks,

@@EarthSense I installed my new probe this morning and fired it up, and 14 hrs later it's working like a charm...! Thank you!!! I went ahead and cancelled my service appt. for this tuesday, saved a 220$ base charge plus parts. It looked too involved to run the plug end of the probe up thru the back of the stove along with the cable of wires that reach the control panel. I now have the new wire zip tied securely, but running from the exhaust tube directly to the control panel outside of the unit., if that makes sense. Any advice there? Again, thank you very much for the advise. Happy holidays

@@josie3633 Very pleased to hear everything is working well and you saved some time and cash to boot - that's awesome! I would however suggest that you attempt to run the ESP probe wire inside the unit with the wiring harness and connect to the proper placement in the rear of the control board. A good light will be very helpful, and depending on the model, it can be very helpful to slightly pull the board out and then connect the ESP to the port. (Advance or early P38 models the board does not come out like the rest). Either way a good light will be your best friend. Make sure the unit is unplugged of course when doing this. Here is another video showing replacement of a control board which may be helpful as you are doing this. Any other questions please let us know. Warm regards and Happy Holidays! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hrRxnq1kz6rRpIE.html

Thanks for contacting us Keith. Does it make any kind of difference as you slightly move that knob in the off position? Sounds like it could be a potentiometer issue (Where the shaft and knob connect to in the control board.) Fiddle with that knob a bit and see if you can get it to go into shutdown. You could always remove the control board and do an inspection on it. I know there are places that repair control boards. I would heavily lean towards this being a control board issue over an ESP issue. Here is a link to the control board replacement if you need to review. pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/ Keep us posted, happy to assist.

@@EarthSense Cleaned the ESP and no difference. The knob feels/sounds normal. It fed pellets for twenty minutes after turning off, I then fiddled with knob and walked away, it then shut down.

@@keithmackenzie9719 Hey Keith, thanks for the update. Sounds like we have determined this an issue with the control board. Could just be the potentiometer on the control board; as I mentioned I have heard of control board repair places out there which could be an option for you. If you have the P61 (Non-Auto Ignition) this would be the right control board for you. Sending the link here for reference. pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks,

@@EarthSense Its actually the P61A w/auto ignite.

@@keithmackenzie9719 Thanks Keith. That will be a different control board for the P61A with Auto Ignition. Here is a link for reference to the correct board - Any questions please let us know, happy to assist however we can. pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ Thanks,

Harman will have a quick disconnect exhaust hub where the venting connects. 3 bolts hold that in place, once removed you can pull the stove out from the corner to be able to access and clean sensors and components while keeping the vent pipe intact. Please note, that when this is performed the gasket between the exhaust hub and manifold will need to be replaced if it is torn or heavily wore. If you need further directions just let us know your Harman model and we will walk you through the steps. pellethead.com/product/harman-tailpipe-exhaust-hub-docking-gasket-seal-aftermarket/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

@@EarthSense thanks!

@@wheeler2816 Absolutely! Here if you need us bud!