That's awesome, glad to hear it helped!

There is also a video on how to do the inside CV joint if/when it comes apart on KZfaq. His only mistake is to not have the backing piece in place before pressing the star shaped center piece in place. Since it has to come off to change the outer boot, it's pretty tough to get the joint off in whole. I did not, so that video was big help. A few tries and a little patience is all it took.

Glad it helped you out!

Glad it helped you out!

Thank you! I'm happy it helped you!

Wow I'm envious of your garage and lift! Looks like your outer CV boot is split. Is the inside of your wheel getting all nasty? This should be a pretty easy job if you have it up on the lift, just take your time. By the way, I'd recommend checking out the IMS Solution rather than using one of the ceramic options. It's more or less the same amount of work to put it in, and, unlike the ceramic bearings, has no service interval moving forward.

Thanks for watching! Yea I found the split after cleaning it up. It’s good looking with all the underbody stuff off the car. Inside of the wheel was fine, the split in the cv boot was small really. My thought is that the clutch is on a service interval also but still undecided. Double the cost isn’t that much considering you don’t have to touch it again.

@@gtmitchell814 Exactly. Not only do you not have to touch it again, but you don't have to worry about it. Even the hybrid ceramic bearings have failed owners - but the IMS Solution is essentially bulletproof. To me, the added peace of mind, lifetime service interval, plus added resale value more than justify the added cost.

charlieaf92 well, front driveshaft won’t give in.. probably have to remove the whole deal and press it out 😭

I don't remember it being terribly difficult. There may have been a plastic underbody pan that needed to be removed. There are torque specs but I don't remember what they are. I'd check on rennlist or google a factory service manual download.

With the wheel on the ground. Remove the center cap to get access to the nut.

Hey Mike - pretty much follow the same steps in reverse to reassemble. As far as the axle nut - you need to replace them with new ones when you remove them. The torque value is around 340ft/lb if I remember correctly but you should definitely verify this yourself in the shop manual or Rennlist. I put my jack handle on my breaker bar and torqued them that way. Good luck with your project!

Vincent T. - I removed them to service the CV boots only, then reinstalled. In order to drive with them removed, you will need to disassemble the outer CV joint and install the spline shaft into the wheel hubs. There is a company that makes a part you can use instead but it's fairly expensive. Google C4S turbo 2wd conversion and you can find it.

I just searched on google and read a guy who did a turbo 2wd conversion which was quite simple. He didn't have to use any parts but simply just removing the front drive to disable it. Lots of people actually like this conversion on their turbo or C4S. It's makes it about 75lb lighter and gave it more hp to the rear.

You can quickly remove the shaft running from the transaxle to the front differential and disable the AWD. The proper way to do it (and where you get the weight savings) is to remove the front differential and half shafts / axles as well. In order to do this, I am pretty sure you need to disassemble the outer CV joints and install the outer spline assembly piece back into the hub. It has the grooves that are used to sense for ABS and PSM. Here is a link to the alternative part that lets you keep your CV joints intact - lamborfuckinghini.com/collections/porsche-911/products/porsche-911-rear-wheel-drive-conversion

$800 for this shaft just to save some weight? I think I will just leave the front differential but remove the shaft to make it RWD. This will still be able to use ABS and PSM correct?

Agreed. That's my understanding - you can just pull the shaft and you have RWD. You could test it out and see if you like it but if you're going to keep it that way, I'd take out the front diff and the front axles - disassemble the outer CV joints and then plastidip the inside of the CV axle ends before you reinstall them. That's the proper way to do a full RWD conversion.

Yeah my focus was completing the job, and the video was an afterthought to recap the best I could to save other people some time. Once the front hub is loose from the control arm I basically just pushed the axle back through the hub while pulling the hub out and rotating it slightly so that the tip of the axle could clear it on the back side. Once it's free the entire axle just slides out easily since nothing is holding it in place. Good luck with your project!

@@charlieaf92 I appreciate you responding to my questions. I have a 1999 C4 that was converted from AWD to RWD and I was wondering what someone had done to the car. The VIN showed CARRERA C4 but I was not getting any AWD performance and was not informed of any modification like this. Surprise surprise! Hey thanks....

@@davidwbybee3450 ah, yes I've read about that conversion. The AWD system in the 996 is totally mechanical so you are able to do the conversion without throwing off any sensors. Basically to remove the AWD, you remove the cardan shaft that connects the transaxle to the front differential, remove the front differential and the two axles as well. You need to disassemble the outer CV joint and put the part back in that has the output spline so that the wheel hub assembly has something to bolt to. Most people spray paint the inside of this part to help prevent corrosion. There is a thread on Rennlist with more details and pictures: rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/762585-how-to-convert-your-awd-996-to-rwd.html