Those stud pullers like you used are the bomb if you have room to use them. I have removed many studs with that style of remover. I used to be a big believer in PB Blaster still do use it but when it gets tough I break out the FreeAll really works awesome sometime after soaking them I will do several light taps on the face of the stud for the real tough ones light heating around head area with just a small torch will get it done but all in patient patient patient as you demonstrated will win most all welding and drilling my very last resort great video!!!

I like the mix of content man. I am learning something new each time.

G’job FF, there’s 2 ways to do things, the right way and over😎doing good hoss keep crushin it 💥🇺🇸💥

If the Army had Farmalls you might have made a career out of it! LOL GREAT VIDEO!

We tear down dozens of engines a day and when we break a stud or bolt we weld a nut on it and back it out! You did good on this!

Nice restoration video. Good detail, and camera angle. Easy to follow. Thanks

Excellent video Gino :) also doing in steps and super updates too ! I know you have this tractor refurbished soon ready to work in feilds soon too and much more! Also Gino have ever use on Gas and Desiel motor on studs with Brass nuts ever to mount manifold on ! Why ask my dad had in his 1963 McCormick International B414 Loader tractor Desiel motor, 1968 McCormick International 105C combine gas motor , 1968 International 624 A Desiel motor , 1978 International 724 B loader Desiel fuel motor and my uncle Bill on his 1950 Cockshutt COOP 40 gas tractor and found they very easy take of faster and one squirt of Pentriotion fluid on each nut plus save studs from breaking off too! Plus no heat with torch too! Also there Cooper Anti Seize out to if like know and Spray is was introduced to me by Desiel mechanic taught me lots family too plus had 40 plus years experience too! Also Gino I do torque 20 plenty and do one click plus do first middle to back to front and plus torque too! Also on carb torque bolts to 10 and manifold my dad changed ever 10 to 15 years plus gaskets too !

Removing studs can be a slow and tedious process. First off it is always easy to do it slow and cautious. Being careful not to break something. When breakage happens I have been successful removing broken bolts or studs by first drilling a small hole in center. Hole would be determined by size bolt or stud. Being careful to keep it centered. Using a small torch and getting the heat deep as possible into the hole. Depending on what is to be removed an easy out will be successful. It has never failed to work for me. Stud remover with penetrating oil is always a good idea. There is a proper tool for most any problem. Great video. Enjoyed very much. Can't wait to see that SMTA in action.

Great video! Leaned a lot. Makes me want to work on my very own tractor type device…the Ariens Snowblower!

Looks good Gino

Refreshing to see no cutting corners! 😊

Slow an steady wins the race 💪👍 good video Red Power 💥 coloured Black 🙄🤣

I need your opinion on the value of a 560 I’m looking at if you don’t mind thanks

I used a tap and die set on a cub cadet gear drive rear end, and I bought one of those, and I drill it, but I didn't have a punch to tap a hole in it and it went off of the mark so I ended up drilling it off center so I still the rearend at my trailer and there's nothing wrong with it except for the hole that is off center but I haven't touched it since that day 👍

Good video.

I completely agree doing it right and then if there’s that fluke chance of manufacturing defect (seems more and more common) you know you did everything right on your end can’t wait to see that high temp paint bubble with working that smta!

Farmall Thursday 💪🏼❤️

I like the copper anti seize for high temp applications. And I usually just hand tighten or snug the studs. Unless they are ARP.

Definitely a tool ill be adding my tool box. I watched a guy use an air chisel with a blunt tip on the end of the studs. Couple hits from that and it seemed to loosen them up and they turned right out.

Nothing wrong with doing it right. It's coming along nicely.

Good job never in my life have I seen all manifold studs come out in 1 piece. I've become very proficient in the weld a nut on method

Looks like the SMTA is coming along nicely...

You were killing me with that stud pulling. Was thinking when are you going to reverse it to let the PB Blaster get in. If you would double nut it you have more chance of flexing it enough to snap off the stud. That puller is worth the money to have for the few times you need it.

Good job on the manifold…no welding or God Forbid drilling and tapping. Likely new washers would give you a more accurate torque. I am not sure how necessary that is however if everything else is new may as well include washers.

I'm looking forward to seeing this beautiful tractor pull something....

Nice job Farmall. (I heard that rooster😅)

As I said before, my grandpa had one like this exactly like this one except his was on the sawmill seeing this tractor brings back wonderful memories! How much horsepower do you think it has 50?

I reuse my bolts on the Super Mta and 400

yup good choice buy new washers also everything should be new

Now do you run a tap in the holes before installing the new studs?

I'm a plumber and there's no greater gut-wrenching feeling on a Friday evening when you're turning something and all the sudden it's loose

when we did not have anti seize if we had an old can of aluminium paint we used the thick paint on the bottom of the can

You were lucky getting those manifold studs out!!! Saved yourself a lot of grief taking your time.

I used red permatex on my manifold gaskets. Is that no good ?

Kroil and patience. Have never failed to remove a bolt when using both

Might as well get it done right ✅️ 🚨🚀💥🚜🔥👍🍻

Just heat the startup you get it good and warm let it cool and it will shrink and you should be able to pack them right out

Nothing I was always told try to tighten it and then wiggle it back and forth

It seems we all get better with time. What used to be ok aint no more.

Is that the permatex I sent you?

Do it once and do it right 💥💥

Why didn’t you put an Eldebrok port & pitted manifold 😮

Hearing the shikken in the background, made me think of Jeff Bradshaws' " redneck restorations" channel" 😅. PS, There really isn't any need to have new washers on the manifold, they are not crush washers as in some applications.

Hold stud turn engine like we do in Russia.

Probably wouldn't of hurt to tap them

Better be careful and don't let your wife here you call that tractor baby she might get jealous

Well at least you didn't need a 6 foot piece a cheater pipe