HERE IS THE LIST OF PARTS USED ON THIS BUILD! The tubing was cut to 72" to utilize the most space in that area. You want to have at least 40-50' of copper for this system to be effective. Here is the parts list for the Air Dryer , starting at the compressor 1x - 2 1/2" 3/4" brass nipple (Sioux Chief 17700324) 1x - 3/4" brass street elbow (female and male end) 1x - 3/4" brass ball valve threaded (both female ends) 1x - 3/4" Rapid Air Compressed Air Jumper Hose (Part # F0215) 1x - 3/4" Male Adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 3/4" threaded) 10x - 3/4" 90° Copper Elbow (Nibco 607) 3x - 3/4" Copper Tee (Nibco 611) 3x - 3/4" to 1/2" Male adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 1/2" threaded) 3x - 1/2" Ball Valves threaded (both female ends) 4x - 3/4" Copper pipe Type L ( I cut these to 72" for the main height) 9x - 3/4" Copper pipe in 2" pieces 1x - 3/4" Brass Compression fitting (to the regulator) 1x - 3/4" Rapid Air NPT Filter Regulator (K93217) The piping after the regulator was set up with 3 end points, one for my blasting cabinet 125 psi at all times, one for my tools and one for the paint gun. The paint side has a DeVilbiss 130502 Desiccant snake, a regulator, high flow fittings and a Devilbiss Rhi-01 Relative Humidity Indicator.

As a professional HVAC, plumber and pipe fitter, to say I’m impressed with your piping skills would be an understatement. Although there are more expedient ways to fit and solder copper piping, most likely because it wouldn’t have made financial sense to buy that specific additional tooling, you understand the importance of the word “plumb” more than most of the guys in my field... Very well done sir...

Who's watching in 2021 and thinking there's more money in that piping than their current car?

About 8 months later form my research and I'm about ready to build my copper piping cooling system and this clip has been on my mind all along. You've done your job well, is what I'm saying. Hats off.

Wanted to add my thanks! I built a like system and currently using it to seal and prime my 56 Chevy in the humidity of Louisiana. The system is working flawlessly!

I love the videos and your attitude. It is way too easy to take yourself too seriously. You have just the right balance. I am working on a 72 short bed of my own. I am getting a lot of inspiration from all of your videos. Thank you.

Making this is all above! The the power is from above

Really like the way you take the time to think thru projects and attempt to do it right the first time....right down to using level. Keep up the good work.

I've been watching several KZfaq videos and I think you are the first one to solder correctly by applying heat at the bottom and solder at the top!

I learned that Theory about 25 years ago when learning to carve/etch glass. The same problem/issue with water and paint pertains to blasting media. THEY HATE EACH OTHER.I also use a toilet paper filter at the very end. I love it. I live in North Carolina so the humidity is not bad but I learned this from a carver in Florida that had been using it for years. I'm sure mine was cheaper to build then ,than yours was. .but it is all relitave,I also made less $ then.Im sure you will love it. I'm an old guy so I didn't like the music but that's just me,and I'm sure there are trademark issues with music.

Your attention to detail is pretty awesome, I worked for a Ingersol Rand portable Diesel compressor company 25 years ago and learned a for amount about large volumes of air. And high and low pressure compressor differences. And I have had my own engine rebuild shop, and now CNC machine shop.... And have dealt with compressed air a lot.... The challenge with drying air is to understand a few different things. #1 - what pressure do you need.....and most importantly what CFM do you need at that pressure. The zig zag back and forth you built back and forth out of non-finned copper line is fine if you use almost now CFM..... Such as painting only. If you were to have someone run that sand blaster non-stop for let's say 30 minutes most basic $1000 and under garage compressors your compressor would never shut off running a Bastet and your copper line temp drop across those few lines would be almost nothing. And the water build up would be uncontrollable. The tank and air line temp would be out of control. The zig zag is a waste of time and money. What you need to do is much more simple.... First remove the air line off the compressor head manifold that goes to the tank ....and run it across the as far away as you can to an air dryer that is at least 50% bigger in CFM volume then you compressor puts out. Then box your shop in a overhead square up high so there are no dead end air runs.....then where ever you need drops plump up first then then turn 90 degrees back down ( water doesn't like to go up ) then plumb from your dryer back to the compressor tank then the check valve...... Now your tank will never even get warm if everything is sized right. Then plumb from your tanks discharge supply valve to your over head square box with all needed drop downs ( you can add drops under each drop supplies with electric moisture blow off's to make sure there is no water build up. ) if the dryer is big enough there will be no water. Remember air conditioned shops require smaller dryers .... Non air conditioned shops in humid areas need MASSIZE dryers sometimes 4 times bigger in CFM rating past compressor output . I have a system in my shop I personally built to keep dry air flowing to my CNC spindles so the lower spindle bearing that sees a constant 5 CFM of air flow at 90 psi to keep high pressure coolant from back splashing into the bearing. My compressor puts out about 40 CFM at 90 psi...... And much less CFM at 175 psi. This is a great video but Compressed air drying is much more complex and this example would only work with very low air volume. Blaster cabinets require much more cooling then this system would provide. ( this example is more towards painting only ) but you should still add a electric dryer. And auto blow off valves. If your air storage tank gets really warm or heaven forbid ( Hot ). You are going to have trouble. IndyDan

keep your videos comeing,i want to see more videos,,your lucky ,down there old cars are alot cheaper to buy , up here in canada every body thinks their cars are made of gold,have a nice day

Really cool system and video ! I am a retired Woodworker between shops at the moment and i’m hoping my next place will be set up for both Woodworking and Automotive repair and painting hopefully utilizing one Compressor to run it all so i’m just kind of getting ideas fromKZfaqrs like you at this moment

I love the music, very VAI like!!

So I watched this video about 6 months ago and since then I've always told myself "I need to make myself a set up like this". Well the day has finally come that it is going to get made. Thanks for the great video and the parts list in the other comments!

I thought leaks and fitings that don't work out ONLY happend to me. Your much more meticulous than me and it even happend to you. Nice to see I'm not alone.

Looks amazing

Great video, Thanks. I didn't mind the music because I am quit hard of hearing! I'm going to get started on mine now. Thanks again.

You nailed it when you needed to!

Fine word Amigo, I have 1 thing to share. If the line from your compressor to your first copper run connects at the top and same with your last copper run its a good way to make sure any water/condensation remains only in the copper pipes. Just info for u to do whatever with. Great vid

It’s good to watch a craftsman.

That turned out great. Nice editing too.

Well done and good production. Don't ever have high humidity out West. Usually only 20%. We are building our air dryer this week.

I've been soldering wires and electronics successfully since I was 14 and I'm north of 60 now but have always struggled with getting nice looking copper pipe sweating. I saw that you keep the hear much farther away from the open end of the connector than I ever did. Will give that a try. I've always cleaned the metal bright because it will never work with less than perfectly clean copper and always used a good flux but got ugly joints. Thanks for the tip!

I separated the belt driven pump from the tank. Put the pump & motor on one side of the shop and the tank on the other side of the shop ( good 60' ) then ran the line on the floor along the wall behind cabinets and benches and such between the 2. Always way cooler along the floor. More material compared to time invested. Haven't had a single drop.

Actually for an exit pipe out of a compressor tank your best option is stainless steel because it doesn’t rust or corrode in anyway and it’s way stronger than anything else. Yeah it’s pricey but what do you want perfect There it is besides whatever you use use good filtration. Great show man… Keep on rockin…

nice job, I like the attention to detail with all the male and female adaptors clocked the same, and all the union nuts and quick adaptors done the same. TWO THUMBS UP. now you need to grow a proper mullet to drive a 70's F body.

Very nice job on the build and I can appreciate all the work you put into filming and editing. Very good job. Informative and entertaining. Thank you.

Love your video style 👌🏻 and the beautiful methodical symmetry of your work 🧐😲😎😁 thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills 🙏🏻🙏🏻😎

Nice job, great tips

Very well documented build... Well done and thank you for sharing it. I appreciate the honesty in you sharing what worked, the parts list, what could have been better as well as the motivating music! One suggestion would be to include a snap shot view of the whole system in one picture... BTW how is is performing for your various uses?

Cool video and a great project. I've got to do the same..

Nice job man. This is an entertaining and informative.video; just what I was looking for on how to set up an air system for my garage. These air system are going to cost more than a damm compressor if you want to do it right...especially for spray painting. Keep'em comming!

I love it😊

Great video! I made my lines from galvanized ,didn’t think about the crud that could get in the lines from using steel. Question is, thats a three line set up, so for a one line dedicated line for paint I only have to run about a third of what you have here here right? Also I have a Devilbliss dessicant dryer,can I dry that filter out in the oven instead of buying a new filter for 50 dollars? If I can didnt know you could do that. Thanks again great video.

Well done

Dude! OMG.... this is the best video on youtube. If for nothing less, you just taught people how to take pride in their work! You even busted out a freaking level for a support block.

Good vid. And finally someone that uses good background music instead of that annoying technocrap.

Nice job

Using the compressor pulley fan to draw air through is lovely. I'm adding a small home built 1 hp compressor run off my off grid PV to keep my 500 gallon tank topped up and your video has been most helpful. It will run for long periods. I was wondering how well your float type drain has worked out over time. I need either that or on of the timer/electric types. Thank you! Bruce M

Its a great video i think... thanks .... i love it

Great video man, I had a few questions, but since since you're really on top of it with all these other questions I've already found my answers. That deserves a thanks in itself! Looking forward to checi=king out what all other videos you'v got. Only thing that'd make this video even better, in my opinion, would be to explain more of the theory, and the whys, bhind the hows. But again, you answer all these quetions so well and thoroughly I now know all the whys that I need to know. Can we get a video on that fiinger snap/point, to instantly install our fittings? If I were you, and knew how to do that sh***** I'd leave the solder and teflon far behind! Must learn! hahaha

Dude wtf !!! Your a mastermind when it comes to this shit

I build this air dryer but decided to attach the dryer in between the compressor head and tank. worked great until today the copper got too hot and blew out the first solder joint. was this a poor decision on my end or is the compressor too hot? maybe i should attach the separator after the tank?

Question, I got a question.........I was going to do this with PVC pipe would it still work? If I do this in copper is there a flux I must apply or is it in the solder already? I need to protect my plasma cutter which already took a dump on me 2 times and dont feel like paying $2400 for another one. This video was helpful and I also ordered a cooler to attach to my portable compressor. Thanks

I'm gonna steal this design on my new set up. Won't need 50' of copper tubing however... I have an 16 pass copper/aluminum fin condenser (pre-tank) going from the condenser into your design with the copper tubes and water catch areas at the bottom, from there into an air filter/water separator with a plunger style auto-drain and from that! Finally, into the 60 gallon storage tank. My reasoning behind all this, is I don't want to replace the tank lol. And I paint as well, so coming OUT of the compressor I may have a desiccant dryer specifically for painting... I feel like after all that, it would just be overkill BUT! I'll try it and see if the desiccant stays dry or not.

Ah 2018, I remember you. Back when you could run copper tubing throughout a workshop without having to consider taking a 2nd mortgage out to pay for it.

Great video! What brand/type of shutoff valves did you use in the piping after the air regulator (the ones with the red handles)? Thanks.

When air is compressed it heats up and water is formed. You need to cool the compressed air back down to room temperature to get the moisture out. Hot air will flow in and out of a dryer and drop its moisture down stream on your paint. Mounting an air filter on the side of the compressor tank is a waste of time. The filter needs to be as far from the compressor as possible. Mount a box fan on your compressor so it blows across the motor and compressor, wire it so it comes on with the compressor. Putting another fan on your copper coils would help too. Run the air line from the tank up to the ceiling first, then down, make the water drain back to your tank. I get very little water in my lines by using a box fan on my compressor and routing the output line straight up

That music at around 9:20 is awesome. At first I thought it was gonna be some generic BS canned metal licks. No, these guys have the groove and while obviously influenced by great classic metal, they really do have the feel in with some to give away.

You obviously know what you are doing. My favorite part is showing the corroded inside of a steel pipe. I would never use black or galvanized pipe. Sch. 80 PVC will handle the pressure but if it ruptures, you have shards that injure. 3/4 in. Copper is great and I like the double kill of using Teflon tape with pipe sealant. Yes, 40 to 50 ft. run is minimum. You are far better than average !

Enjoyed this video. Just mad a manifold like this for my new air compressor. Mine doesn't look that good tho lol. Good job! Where did you find the hose that go from air compressor to manifold ?

Thanks for the video which I have found really useful. And to questioners who raise valid points. I'm a DIY classic car enthusiast just recently 'discovered' air power & am preparing for my first respray this year. Also discovering some pitfalls to avoid. I do have a couple of questions though 1] about pipe length and diameter. It would appear that (assuming other conditions constant) longer pipe runs increase performance (up until last tap is dry?) - so I assume a smaller diameter pipe would need even longer runs - so proportional to inner surface area? 2] a questioner mentioned installing an 'orifice' (a wider pipe or plenum?) before the 'intercooler' to allow rapid expansion of air...since I do not know how wet pressurised air behaves, is there some 'theory' behind that addition? Have not seen that mentioned before. Had not seen a dessicant pipe before so will check that out too. Thanks again for sharing your experience & your time & effort to put this together. G

So looks to be 1/2 coper do you have a schematic

I appreciate the copper air lines. This is how I'm going to run air in my shop also. I understand what you're doing with the six vertical pipes to condense the moisture and the valves at the bottom to remove it. I'm confused by all the connections at the end. It would be great if you had summarized at the end what you did and how it's supposed to work.

those look like brandoms cabinets, I used to paint those years ago

Nice job! So what kind of "soldering" is that you're doing with the propane torch? I've never done that before. I've done regular soldering of small electrical components, but nothing like what you did here. Looks fairly easy though. Thanks!

Great video Man that's right to the point. Love your dog to exlent moment with the music it sat really well for me, I'm hoping to try find some of the tunes you used to listen to myself . Do you play music? As at one point I thought I wonder is this tune performed by you ? & your place looks cool to . Hey bro things break hey it happens to me to, and im thinking what next ? its frustrating . But for what you do its worth it. Same with me bro. It's very much worth it, I think that's why I think like that. Make nearly anything with the RND and experience of different trade's .

Awesome video bud! might do the same but in 1/2". and at the bottom, I'll connect all 3 valve connection to one valve. to keep the cost down... copper fittings are super expensive now.

I built the same thing about 3 years ago. The trick I added to mine is an orifice within the supply line leaving the compressor where it enters the copper pipe.. so the air has a rapid expansion entering the radiator. It helped tremendously! Then I added a cyclonic water separator and large motor guard filter. I just change the toilet paper as it needs it. Or before starting a big job requiring a lot of air.. like running the blast cabinet, spraying, running the plasma table etc.. I like this type of system because it's basically maintenance free.. only additional changes I'm planning is an automatic drain system that drains the compressor tank as well as the copper manifold.

What are some good brand names for filter/dessicant-dryers? I'm looking at a Campbell Hausfeld comb and PneumaticPlus - both 130$ price range. Also, technical question. For a run and gun system (fixing a panel, varnishing some furniture) would a 25 ft hose (maybe an ice bucket) and one of those cheaper systems that I mention be enough? I wold assume so. I'm a once in a blue moon warrior (not even weekend) and I'm looking for a good system to varnish and paint. My compressor is a 27 gallon 1.9 hp Powermate.

Always a pleasure to see someone as OCD as me. :) Keep up the good work man!

Very nice design and work. Like your style. You still use a small dryer at your spray gun right? I've found the rubber hose lying on concrete floor sometimes gets cool enough for condensation to form inside it. If you live in dry climate like Phoenix might not be a problem but in the south or other more humid climate, better use that little dryer at the gun. Every bit of insurance against moisture is worth it. New subscriber.

Great video Man. Just what I was looking for. Curious about the desiccant snake? Does that just take place of not needing a desiccant filter with silica additives? Did you get most parts from same place?

Would have liked to see the system as a whole, and hear a little bit about how much moisture you got out of each leg of the system.

The Galvanized steel valves will cause hysteresis. Brass with copper is a better choice and does not have the dissimilar metal corrosion problem. I know it's more money but 2 bucks per valve is nothing in the long run. The workmanship was excellent. I was surprised to see you DID use brass on the rest of the valves. I just installed black pipe out of my tank and after seeing your video and the corrosion issue I am thinking I may need to re-address that issue in the near future. sigh. Liked, subscribed and noti's.........Peace.

Just a question - what's the flexible line for (in the last minute of the video - the one that leaked)?

Have you had an paint adhesion issues with the flux/acid in the copper lines?

Question: I built one and am see no water out of the valves. Did you install yours between the compressor and tank or at the outlet of the tank?

Hey, could you tell me where you got the compression fittings that go into the regulator?

I would suggest using AquaPex, made by Uponor, instead of copper for a couple of very good reasons. 1. The AquaPex tubing does not condensate anywhere close to what copper does, thus dryer lines. 2. Cheaper....way cheaper. 3. Easier by far, pretty sure this job would have taken me less than a day to plumb the whole shop. In saying that I do appreciate the attention to detail, but using copper is not the best option for air lines. It is a testament to your talent since it was still interesting and entertaining!

I have a 21 gallon compressor with an additional 11 gallon tank connected together my garage can I run 1/2 copper pipe?

Hello can you tell me after the regulator. On the 3 end points was this from 3/4 inch copper or 1/2 inch copper then reduced down to 3/8 inch for the airline fittings and regulators.

You done a killer job on air set-up!! After 2 yrs now, how's everything holding up? Going to look at some other videos of yours!

First off, great video, and workmanship. Now for the meat ,and potatoes. Coming from, and still in the air compressor business as a field service technician for all brands of air compressors, driers, and filtration for over 20 years,.. you effectively built a after cooler for the discharge air. Yes the receiver tank will also act as a after cooler too. However, all your copper tubing is at the mercy of your ambient temp of your garage. Other considerations are relative humidity. On high humid days, you will increase condensate output from the discharge air, and how much demand you draw from the compressor. The more the compressor runs, the more hot wet air it will produce. Especially on humid days. There is a reason why refrigerated driers are used. They cool the air to around 36 to 39 degrees. ( which is a good common low dew point for most compressed air systems) Do you think your piping system will get that low in temp? (Well it probably will in the winter time) Please don’t get me wrong here, I am not hating on your system, or you. Just putting out a little more information on air systems. If you have access to a dew point monitor, or hydrometer, measure the dew point at the point of discharge on you system. You will see what I am explaining. There is a lot more involved on this topic, which I do not have time to get into now. Keep up the great work, and good luck with you projects.

NIce, very nice. You did a great job! I would like to ask you. When you put this in use, Do you always have water come out 'each' valve when you open them for draining? Thanks a lot........

I have question about sand blasting, could you come out of the compressor head and back into the tank with this setup to keep up blasting better and not lose the tank volume. Thanks Dennis.

Hiw short can these vertical line be before they start losing effectiveness

Was your compressor bolted down to the concrete when the welds broke?

Next time just leave the insulation where it is. It will compress no problem. Great build

I cut my teeth in body shops and became a full time painter both in body shops as well as industrial nonsense shooting up to 70 gallons a week poisoning my body from soaking it up through my sweat pours etc.. Anyway, nice setup.. Now I have a cabinet shop and would make a similar setup except I no longer paint anything at similar scale, mostly latex these days, occasional oil, but not enough to worry about.. I absolutely get the time thing.. In my shop now I have to run to the dump about once a month just to dispose of all the scrap wood and sawdust and my shop is a holy terror of messes plus I just don't seem to have the ability to throw out anything bigger than a 1x1 that isn't full of knots.. I can't even find a scrap guy to pick up scrap metal if I was still producing it.. The good news is I'm getting too old to keep this foolishness up so I'll probably sell off my equipment before I die of old age and have my kids sell it for themselves.. ;)

Where can I find a flexible air hose like that? What size was it? I have 3/4" brass fittings but am having trouble finding parts that fit together. Trying to build something very similar.

for those that want to try to use pvc pipe as an inexpensive replacement for copper, keep in mind that pvc conducts heat very poorly so you would need a much larger cooling grid that could be 3 times the size of a copper grid.

Great build.. Wondering what it basically cost to do that build ???

So do you have any issues when the compressor is running while you’re painting?

what kind of ball valves did you use?

Where do you find 3M paper in Canada? I am in Montreal. I want 216U. Almost everybody seems to carry Gator or Norton. The 216U is formulated for water borne finishes btw.

This is not enough also needing a cooler in-between the compressor and the tank. I used a 25fot coil of copper tubing submerged in a bucket. Also put a small clear reservoir at the end where you connect the air line, you will see still there will be some moisture.

This method of copper pipe works great, but to those interested, the other method you see well documented in the internet of using a trans cooler is much better. Here's why. Aside from the enormous amount of cost, work, and leak failure points for this method, look at the physics. The copper pipe is nearly against the wall which reduces air flow dramatically. A small trans cooler like the common Derale 15300 used in the other videos has 16 ft of tube (I bet you didn't realize that), and it is finned, and exposed on all sides. (Ever see baseboard heating without fins? Of course not). It is at least 2x efficient as unfinned pipe against wall. Then add a small fan and it is at least 3x efficient as copper pipe against the wall. That means a small 12"x12" cooler is equal to 48 ft of copper pipe against your wall. Lastly, who has so much wall space to kill? No disrespect to this guy who did an awesome job, I'm just trying to help people who are considering adding an aftercooler. Either method works extremely well. Whichever method you choose, be sure to install the cooler and a water trap BEFORE your tank to avoid the corrosion he showed in the piping happening in your tank (it's uncoated steel inside).

Check out Easton compressors out of Ohio Awsome mom and pop shop went big.big pistols on there compressors so the run slower and cooler. Also sounds like my motorcycle!

thanks! One more question. I don't have enough room behind my compressor like yours so I was thinking about running a line 10 feet or so to the dryer. Do you see anything wrong with that? Thanks again for your awesome video and all your help!

Hi man what is thikness at inside diameter of pipe?

How long were your copper tubing?

don't feel bad, took me 2 years to get around to connecting 2 wires!

lol, one year ago...I have a few projects like that!

Good God Almighty! What a sweet set up - all that and you end up using Harbor Freight junk.

That's one hell of a trombone you're making

Is there some resource online that explains exactly what the theory is behind this and how it works? Like, is it important to have more bends in the system to act as a water trap, or longer runs etc?

I have wanted to throw the exact same HF dryer and a couple others. I can't paint anything

Did you use 1/2 or 3/4 copper lines??! Thanks